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miah87
27-02-2010, 06:44 PM
Hi there everyone. just got myself a white astina BA hatch... Want to change the wheels but need some information. Can I put a 16" rims on my car.. Is it too heavy? Or 15" is better...

70NYD
27-02-2010, 06:59 PM
1st of all (http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1770) this will give u all infor u need on what tyres/rims will fit.
2nd - 18" is the largest legal rim diameter.
i amongst many other members have 18" rims on my BA. anything under that will fit ;)

Cosmo Dude
27-02-2010, 07:28 PM
Sixteens are an easy fit. They are the standard rim on the V6, all you have to do is find a set you like with 4-stud 4x100 pattern.

miah87
04-03-2010, 05:39 PM
I heard some ppl said 16" for a mazda is +2 the original size of its wheels and will draw cops attention.. Is that true? I don't want to be fined because of this... And I'm in melbourne...

And I need some advice on this:
Found a $600 Lenso 16" rims 205/45/16, 4x100, 4 stud but have no idea what is the offset. My mechanic asked me to bring the rim to him before buying it but the seller is living too far from my mechanic. The seller asked me to go to his mechanic shop and ask him to show me if the rim is good by spinning it. If I'm buying it then I'll give him my original wheels on my mazda astina and take his lenso rims since he has no other rims to put on after selling his wheels. I don't want to buy a bad wheels for $600. I know wheels that is $600 will not be perfect but at least will not make my steering shakes. xD Any suggestion what should I do? Gonna change the rim this weekend if possible...

Thank you Thank you

Cosmo Dude
04-03-2010, 06:05 PM
Take a look at the sticker in the drivers door jamb. It quotes 14" and 15" rims so it would only be +1" from the 15" size. As I said though the V6 has 16" as standard which is why a lot of people (even in Melbourne) run 17" rims.
BTW 16" rims don't look over size as there is still plenty of tyre wall. Well except on my hatch 'cos I've only got them on the rear so far. Long weekend so I may have to do something about that. ;)

miah87
04-03-2010, 07:58 PM
hmm so guys, What should I check before buying a rim from a private seller? Other than checking for cracks, gutter dmg, scratches and?

70NYD
04-03-2010, 10:36 PM
get the correct ofset 1st and foremost. the inside of your door should also say 16" so u can legaly go 18's however to be fully legal you should have the 5stud conversion and bigger front brakes (as this is what the v6 had and it would put u inline with the proper runnign gear) or u could extend the bolts possible and get it engineerd (with new torqes)

project.r.racing
05-03-2010, 09:02 PM
to be fully legal you should have the 5stud conversion and bigger front brakes (as this is what the v6 had and it would put u inline with the proper runnign gear) or u could extend the bolts possible and get it engineerd (with new torqes)wtf are you smoking? brakes have nothing to do with maximum wheel size.

in victoria you are allowed to go 15mm bigger and smaller rolling diameters than those originally fitted to the car.

185/65R14 = 595mm 14x5
195/55R15 = 594mm 15x5.5

the above are original fitted to a I4 1.8L BA Astina. the below would be legal fitting and most common fitments.

205/45R16 = 591mm 16x7
215/40R17 = 604mm 17x7
215/35R18 = 608mm 18x7.5

the vic and qld rules are the same for increased diameter. but in qld, we have a -10mm allowable decrease.

miah87
05-03-2010, 09:54 PM
in victoria you are allowed to go 15mm bigger and smaller rolling diameters than those originally fitted to the car.

185/65R14 = 595mm 14x5
195/55R15 = 594mm 15x5.5

the above are original fitted to a I4 1.8L BA Astina. the below would be legal fitting and most common fitments.

205/45R16 = 591mm 16x7
215/40R17 = 604mm 17x7
215/35R18 = 608mm 18x7.5

the vic and qld rules are the same for increased diameter. but in qld, we have a -10mm allowable decrease.[/QUOTE]


Thankz. you've made it very clear... xD thank you

70NYD
05-03-2010, 11:53 PM
wtf are you smoking? brakes have nothing to do with maximum wheel size.

in victoria you are allowed to go 15mm bigger and smaller rolling diameters than those originally fitted to the car.

185/65R14 = 595mm 14x5
195/55R15 = 594mm 15x5.5

the above are original fitted to a I4 1.8L BA Astina. the below would be legal fitting and most common fitments.

205/45R16 = 591mm 16x7
215/40R17 = 604mm 17x7
215/35R18 = 608mm 18x7.5

the vic and qld rules are the same for increased diameter. but in qld, we have a -10mm allowable decrease.

cbf explaining fully
basically the V6 hubs r needed to go to the 18" legaly cus of the dif forces a larger wheel will give and different clap more studs same size will give..
(they come with bigger brakes..)

DavoAust
06-03-2010, 04:10 AM
cbf explaining fully
basically the V6 hubs r needed to go to the 18" legaly cus of the dif forces a larger wheel will give and different clap more studs same size will give..
(they come with bigger brakes..)

you can get 18"-19" engineered for a BA without the V6 hubs. they're just useful because its easier to find rims for the 5-stud.

the brakes are only necessary if you're increasing the power of the vehicle.

miah87
06-03-2010, 09:52 AM
has anyone tried 215/40/17 on a 1995 mazda astina hatch b4? I'm will be buying a rims from ebay and I can't try it on since that guy is in chealsea. Will need an hour drive to get there and its wasting fuel. According to him, these rims have been on a 180sx and integra before. So, will the 215/40/17 scrubs?

project.r.racing
06-03-2010, 10:30 AM
180sxs and integras have 4x114.3 stud pattern.

astinas have 4x100.

be carefull off fitment.

ignore all 5 stud talk. it's info that is misleading.

miah87
06-03-2010, 11:01 AM
It is a 4 multi stud 4 x 100 and 114... There's a guy told me that even if the pattern is 4x100.. The middle rim might not fit. Is that true?

Rupewrecht
06-03-2010, 02:47 PM
I've got 215/40/17 on mine, so you'll be fine. If you're car is lowered it may scrub, but it depends on offset.

miah87
06-03-2010, 04:45 PM
Thats a relieve cause I've been searching for used white rims and this is the one that I really like... Well, my car just got a few damage because of the hailstorm that strikes melbourne today... T_T Why it happens after I bought a car?

miah87
08-03-2010, 01:58 PM
Anyone knows where can I get a steel plate attached to my floor mats? The driver side floor mat is worn because of the friction during my driving...

project.r.racing
08-03-2010, 02:04 PM
Buy new floor mats.

miah87
08-03-2010, 02:07 PM
I saw some people have a silver colour, look like steel plate attached on their floor mat. Besides protecting the floor mat from worn, it also looks like when you have LED in your car. xD

70NYD
08-03-2010, 03:37 PM
that would be aluminium inserts on floor mats. u can get it from a few places, i rember that crazy clarks had it (the mats with the inserts)

Brisbane_boy
08-03-2010, 04:10 PM
u can get those mats from auto barn or super cheap even. cost me $30 for all 4

miah87
11-03-2010, 06:36 PM
Hey guys there is a problem wit my car again... This is a tough one... The day before yesterday, I drive for 40 minutes to school and when I reach school there is a noise coming from the front, I think its not from the engine but from the wheels... So I take it to my mechanic right after I finish my class and he asked me to leave the car there since its already 3.30pm. So the next day, my mechanic said the noise is gone and he suspect the CV JOINT. He also suspect that this noise will occur only when the CV JOINT is hot enough after more than half an hour drive. So I went to my mechanic and take the car. I was happy at first since the noise is really gone, right before I reach home at approximately 35 to 40 minutes of driving, the noise came back again. Has anyone had this problem before?

Note: The noise is like two metal brushing each other. When I go faster, the noise become faster and go slower the noise slower. Its definitely something to do with the wheels. Brakes are fine.

Need help... Thx

70NYD
11-03-2010, 09:49 PM
Hey guys there is a problem wit my car again... This is a tough one... The day before yesterday, I drive for 40 minutes to school and when I reach school there is a noise coming from the front, I think its not from the engine but from the wheels... So I take it to my mechanic right after I finish my class and he asked me to leave the car there since its already 3.30pm. So the next day, my mechanic said the noise is gone and he suspect the CV JOINT. He also suspect that this noise will occur only when the CV JOINT is hot enough after more than half an hour drive. So I went to my mechanic and take the car. I was happy at first since the noise is really gone, right before I reach home at approximately 35 to 40 minutes of driving, the noise came back again. Has anyone had this problem before?

Note: The noise is like two metal brushing each other. When I go faster, the noise become faster and go slower the noise slower. Its definitely something to do with the wheels. Brakes are fine.

Need help... Thx

usually when cv joints go it is a clak clak clak sound when u turn only. sound increases with speed (freequency) and load (pitch) but it should nto occur in straight line. i dont understand wat u mean by 2 metals brushing sound, it can be so many diff sounds made by 2 metals in contact. is it a squealing sound??

miah87
11-03-2010, 10:02 PM
I really don't know how to describe that sound. Isn't squealing sound is high pitch. Ermmmm there is one way to tell the sound, it is similar but not exactly the same... Turn on your fan and use ur finger nails to touch the fan.. The sound is like >>>> " tuck tuck tuck tuck tuck"

And this only happens when the car had been running for more than 30 minutes almost 40 minutes

When the car goes faster, the sound goes faster as well.. As if it is following the speed of the wheels...

Hope you can understand what I'm saying :(

70NYD
11-03-2010, 11:04 PM
someone correct me if im wrong but to me that sounds like the wheel bearing...

and if someone does confirm this is the wheel bearings this is how u change them (http://www.club323f.com/?page_id=1189)

miah87
11-03-2010, 11:20 PM
I was thinking bout the same thing... I think it is the wheel bearing but Im not sure...

To confirm it, Does wheel bearing problems cause:

1. That sound only when the car runs for more than 30 minutes?
2. Sometimes turning to the right creates a louder noise
3. When the car comes to almost complete stop the noise can be heard clearly
4. Reverse seems fine though

project.r.racing
12-03-2010, 05:23 PM
bearings are normally a humming sound that increases in volume the faster you go.

should not matter how long you have been driving for. the humming should be present all the time. unless it has been damaged for some time and not it is allowing movement within the inturnal of the bearings/hub. might explain klak klak noise when only turning right.

inner cv joint will make a klak klak sound increasing in frequency in a straight line when damaged also. not nothing in reverse.

70NYD
12-03-2010, 05:50 PM
i was thinkin simmilar to that as well ryan but i dont get the warm up time.. what needs to expand to klak... still got me
i said wheel bearings cus the humming sound was the one i was thinking of whn describing 2 metals sliding :p

project.r.racing
12-03-2010, 06:37 PM
bearings when heated up above normal temps will have increased movement in them. extra movement may occur, hence the noise. if bearings at extremely damaged, then they spin with increased friction and heat to higher than normal temps.

or the hub axle bolt may be somewhat loose (only 0.25mm will cause the klak klak noise) as the axle might be sliding left to right inside the hub.

wouldn't know until the wheel is taken off and hubs and axles are inspected.

p.s. or as simple as loose lug bolts will get you klak klak noise in straight lines and cornering.

miah87
12-03-2010, 07:18 PM
bearings when heated up above normal temps will have increased movement in them. extra movement may occur, hence the noise. if bearings at extremely damaged, then they spin with increased friction and heat to higher than normal temps.

or the hub axle bolt may be somewhat loose (only 0.25mm will cause the klak klak noise) as the axle might be sliding left to right inside the hub.

wouldn't know until the wheel is taken off and hubs and axles are inspected.

p.s. or as simple as loose lug bolts will get you klak klak noise in straight lines and cornering.

loose lug bolts? I was suspecting that at first because last week I went to try a set of wheels from a private seller... He said that he is studying mechanical and knows a lot about mechanical. Well, I only test 1 out of 4 wheels and it is the front left wheels. Turning left makes louder noise... Will the loose bolts result in damaging the studs? Should I change the whole stud?


Edited!!!!!

But loose bolts will make the noise all the time rite? In my case, it only happens after more than 30 minutes drive...

project.r.racing
12-03-2010, 08:37 PM
well it is a 5 second test to go out to your car to eliminate that as a possible cause of the fault.

70NYD
13-03-2010, 03:18 PM
mate this is useless... u cant describe noises thru a forum full stop. take the car to a PROPER mechanic not your friend who thinks its this or that..

astie
17-03-2010, 07:32 PM
I didnt know they have wheel size restriction in vic and qld!? how stupid ... is there such thing in NSW????

in victoria you are allowed to go 15mm bigger and smaller rolling diameters than those originally fitted to the car.

185/65R14 = 595mm 14x5
195/55R15 = 594mm 15x5.5

the above are original fitted to a I4 1.8L BA Astina. the below would be legal fitting and most common fitments.

205/45R16 = 591mm 16x7
215/40R17 = 604mm 17x7
215/35R18 = 608mm 18x7.5

the vic and qld rules are the same for increased diameter. but in qld, we have a -10mm allowable decrease.


Thankz. you've made it very clear... xD thank you[/QUOTE]

miah87
22-03-2010, 05:02 PM
I went to autobarn today and ask for a custom job for full interior blue lights... They said it will cost around $200... Is that worth?

70NYD
22-03-2010, 05:58 PM
short answer NO

Brisbane_boy
22-03-2010, 06:01 PM
I went to autobarn today and ask for a custom job for full interior blue lights... They said it will cost around $200... Is that worth?

Hell no. u can do it yourseld and its easy as.
there isnt even that many bulbs inside. probly cost u around $40 if that to buy LEDs from either autobarn or ebay

project.r.racing
22-03-2010, 06:29 PM
I didnt know they have wheel size restriction in vic and qld!? how stupid ... is there such thing in NSW????

Thankz. you've made it very clear... xD thank youNSW has the most strict wheel rules in the country. 2 inches bigger and 1 inch wider maximum.

I went to autobarn today and ask for a custom job for full interior blue lights... They said it will cost around $200... Is that worth?i'd put that money towards fixing the 100s of problems your car has.

miah87
22-03-2010, 07:25 PM
thx thx... haha... Gonna do it during easter... Sacrifice my easter holiday for my car...

miah87
23-03-2010, 08:25 AM
Guys, this morning my car blowing out white smoke for about 1 minute and that's a lot a lot of white smoke.. I don't know how does a white and blue smoke looks like but what me and my gf saw was only white smoke. So I rev it up and it continues. After that 1 minute, it is completely fine. Is my engine starts dying?


EDITED

sorry sorry, do now answer this question. I found this in other thread...

miah87
23-03-2010, 09:30 AM
I know that white smoke = water in my oil.. Just had a minor service from my mechanic. Could it be that he accidentally drip in some water? Or somewhere is leaking?

outbakoz
23-03-2010, 10:19 AM
You need to read more, if it only smokes at startup and disappears once it warms up its more likely to be valve stem seals that need replacing.

Cosmo Dude
23-03-2010, 10:29 AM
Or a bit of condensation in the exhaust.

Clean_Cookie
23-03-2010, 01:58 PM
Or a bit of condensation in the exhaust.
id agree with CD
blue smoke which stinks like burning oil at startup is valve stem seals fyi

70NYD
23-03-2010, 02:18 PM
white smoke doesnt mean water in oil
white smoke means water in the cylinders and its BAD JUJU
and it could also be condensation in exhaust.
blue smoke at startup is valve seals. constat blue smoke is rings or blown gasket
white smoke can also be blown gasket
1st check ur exhaust for leaks
if no leaks after u turn your car off put a cloth in th eexhaust then let it sit there. when u o to turn ur car on again take the cloth out of exhaust then start it. if its smoking its not condensation

project.r.racing
23-03-2010, 06:11 PM
if you park the car out side a night, and it was the first startup for the day. it will be condensation as posted above.

Cosmo Dude
23-03-2010, 06:24 PM
Smoke or vapour?
Tomorrow morning is likely to be similar temp so look at other cars to see if they have the same white something coming from their exhaust. Look for newer cars, it's going to be a bit hard living in Flemington 'cos most of the cars you see will have been on the road for a while.

miah87
24-03-2010, 04:04 PM
No, my cousin's car is fine. And I notice one thing today, my exhaust is spraying either water or oil. I guess it is water cause white smoke is coming out from my exhaust again this morning.. Oh, and sometimes, when I start my car, it has a ticking noise for 1 or 2 seconds...

miah87
24-03-2010, 04:06 PM
Smoke or vapour?


It is smoke not vapour. I feel kinda embarassed cause every morning my car is blowing a lot of smoke and into ppl houses. =.= I'm afraid someday they will just destroy my car T_T

Rix
24-03-2010, 09:58 PM
wtf are you smoking? brakes have nothing to do with maximum wheel size.

in victoria you are allowed to go 15mm bigger and smaller rolling diameters than those originally fitted to the car.

185/65R14 = 595mm 14x5
195/55R15 = 594mm 15x5.5

the above are original fitted to a I4 1.8L BA Astina. the below would be legal fitting and most common fitments.

205/45R16 = 591mm 16x7
215/40R17 = 604mm 17x7
215/35R18 = 608mm 18x7.5

the vic and qld rules are the same for increased diameter. but in qld, we have a -10mm allowable decrease.



I have 205/40R17 does that mean they are illegal?

miah87
24-03-2010, 10:06 PM
Guys, I just want to confirm Astina BA 1995 fuel consumption before making any decision. I need to know that:

How many Litres of petrol does it have? (According to Redbook, it has 55 litres full tank) but I just add my fuel just now and it is only 38.43 litres.

How many km/ltr can it run? (Mine is currently 8km/litre)

Is my fuel consumption really really bad?

Additional information: full tank = 300km


EDITED

Should I drive till the orange light comes on?

70NYD
25-03-2010, 08:05 AM
BA has a 55L tank by the books but most u will ever fit in will be 45.
my consumption is 11km/L
u prob shouldnt be driving till the light coms on, cus it means that u have less fuel in the tank and more chance to pick up sht and more chance that ur filter will get cloged in a shorter period of time.

Rupewrecht
25-03-2010, 08:14 AM
I've got 50L into mine...but that was not by choice!

Mad Mat
25-03-2010, 08:17 AM
Should I drive till the orange light comes on?

i do and get about 550 out of it when the light comes on. thats with 98 in the car.

the old bg got about 450 on 92 when the light goes on.

Cosmo Dude
25-03-2010, 09:24 AM
I've put in all 55 litres (after rolling down to the flatter part of my driveway). The fuel gauge kinda learns/adjusts for empty depending on when you fill your tank I.E. if you fill at 40L then it will slowly begin to show that as the bottom level. If you slowly drive 20 to 30 km past empty a few times the gauge will begin to correct.
8L per 100km is pretty good for a 15YO Astina, it's about what I get from my 2 ATM. It depends a lot on how and where the car is driven.

70NYD
25-03-2010, 10:29 AM
he said 8km/L which is 12.6l/100km
myn 11km/L is 8-9L/100km

Cosmo Dude
25-03-2010, 10:36 AM
Still it depends on the context of how you use the car. Example if you live in Flemington and drive in to the city every day then your economy will be bad but if you live in Ringwood and cruise Eastlink to Dandenong each day your economy will be good.

-dc-
25-03-2010, 11:22 AM
he said 8km/L which is 12.6l/100km
myn 11km/L is 8-9L/100km

wow, if it is 12.6l/100km then thats terrible, my 3.2L v6 only used 11L/100km and thats mainly stop/start driving!

Clean_Cookie
25-03-2010, 11:30 AM
does being an auto make it worse at all? i get consististantly 9 or below.

Rix
25-03-2010, 01:25 PM
auto is generally worse, i'm not sure why i'm gonna guess something to do with the gears but yeah

Plutonus
25-03-2010, 02:29 PM
Oh, and sometimes, when I start my car, it has a ticking noise for 1 or 2 seconds...

Be lifters or could be getting low on oil. But if it goes away after a few seconds probably not too bad, but keep an eye on it.

auto is generally worse, i'm not sure why i'm gonna guess something to do with the gears but yeah

I think so, 4sp vs 5sp, also computer decides when to shift in auto, so in manual you can shift at most optimal points to save fuel as well.

project.r.racing
25-03-2010, 05:08 PM
Guys, I just want to confirm Astina BA 1995 fuel consumption before making any decision. I need to know that:

How many Litres of petrol does it have? (According to Redbook, it has 55 litres full tank) but I just add my fuel just now and it is only 38.43 litres.

How many km/ltr can it run? (Mine is currently 8km/litre)

Is my fuel consumption really really bad?

Additional information: full tank = 300km


EDITED

Should I drive till the orange light comes on?Sorry but getting 300km from 38.43 litres is 12.81L per 100km.

You should be getting 8-9L per 100km. or 11-13km/litre.

You are using 33%ish more fuel than normal. From a auto, I would expect 9L/100km usage.

miah87
25-03-2010, 06:53 PM
Thx for the comment everyone, Since it is that bad, I will probably get my o2 sensor changed or other parts that affect it...

70NYD
25-03-2010, 09:05 PM
auto is worst manily cus of the torque converter taking time to lockup, and basically when ur parked with engine on, the torque converter is still putting resistance to the engine cus the wheels cant move. this is mainly the reason. the 4/5 speed doesnt make MUCH of the difference cus of OD

miah87
26-03-2010, 08:27 AM
I know that auto will used more fuel than the manual but my brother's car is a 1.7 and he could run 400 and more with 40 litre tank... Im currently running 300km on a full tank and wanting to increase it to at least 350km.. Hopefully can increase to 400...

70NYD
26-03-2010, 08:56 AM
u SHOULD be getting 500... how do u drive? does the peddal spend a lot of time on the floor?

miah87
26-03-2010, 09:14 AM
I rarely press the pedal pass 3000RPM... Only when someone is tailing me really close then I will press it a lil harder mayb 3500RPM... I normally use the highway to school and back... Since the car has a really bad fuel consumption, I never race away from the lights.

70NYD
26-03-2010, 09:30 AM
no i dont mean do u rev it. i dont go past 4000rpm but i get there with full throttle almost every time (well i used 2 but now im scared my clutch will let go while im on the way to uni..)
what i meant is do you press the pedal hard to get to the 3000rpm? and when ur at 3000rpm how hard do u press then? and have u checked ur transmition fluid lately?

miah87
26-03-2010, 10:08 AM
Just had a minor service and changed transmission fluid few days ago. The pedal is not hard..

70NYD
26-03-2010, 01:46 PM
omg this is the last time i asy this cus u clearly dont understand what i am saying.
HOW HARD DO YOU PUSH THE PEDAL ON THE FLOOR?? ALL THE WAY TILL IT CANNOT GO ANY MORE? OR JUST ENOUGH FOR THE CAR TO MOVE FORWARD?

miah87
26-03-2010, 01:56 PM
LOL... I know what u r saying.. I just answered it wrongly xD... I actually want to answer I did not push the pedal hard.. Yea just enough to get the car running...

70NYD
26-03-2010, 08:23 PM
oh lol im sorry man
yeah i dont know then ay. a blocked catalytic converter??
WAY underinflated tyres.
brakes not adjusted properly (so dragging.. butthis would not effect after a while) buggered O2 sensor... try ressetting ur ECU by taking the negative terminal of your battery and thenputting your foot on the brake for 30 seconds.
then reconect the battery.
maybe u hav a monkey somewhere in ur system :p

miah87
26-03-2010, 08:39 PM
hmmmm... Want to see a list of problem that my car has now?

- Fuel consumption(300km full tank)

- CV Joint - turning and bumping sound

- Brakes squealing noise - really annoying(it gets louder)

- Indicator and high beam sensitivity - When indicator to the left or right, turning the steering a lil will knock back the indicator. High beam is very sensitivity, it usually comes on whenever I use the indicator.. might be wiring problem

- A/C smells - I can temporarily get rid of the smell by turning on the fan only for 10 minutes then on the air con.

- Oil leaks - minor oil leaks but have to be fix I guess

- Something near the cv joint is loose and makes a sound while driving. Similar to wheel bearing sound...

- White smoke every morning and sometimes blowing water...

RustyKaos
26-03-2010, 09:06 PM
Wow. That sure is a list. I know these older cars get more problems as they get older but that list just looks like negligence from the previous owner.

miah87
26-03-2010, 09:23 PM
The more I think of it the more I hated it... Can't stop hatin the seller.. I know its my fault not to check properly... But still...

Clean_Cookie
27-03-2010, 06:19 AM
i feel really sorry for you! kike I've done all my service work and the only thing out of.negligance is the engine which didnt cost too much and tusks experiencewas invaluable in my opinion. and sadly you've paid morsel than i did 18months ago! anyway get it sorted nd enjoy it! also highway milafe should be 450+ on GOOD FUEL. what fuel do you use? ive gotten 220kms from cheap e10 and withh the same driving on bp ultimate 400kms...

mikey_something
27-03-2010, 06:33 AM
brake squeeling could probly be kknocked off the list with a change of pads and new discs or machining them.

relatively cheap exercise too :)

i found i was accidentally switching the highbeam on when indicating when i first got my car but i got used to it... maybe thats it? is it feeling loose?
could be missing some springs inside it or something.

not sure about it auto cancelling really easily...
i thought that was caused by small teeth inside at various angles of turn
wouldn't make sense that u got more of them lol!

miah87
27-03-2010, 08:49 AM
i feel really sorry for you! kike I've done all my service work and the only thing out of.negligance is the engine which didnt cost too much and tusks experiencewas invaluable in my opinion. and sadly you've paid morsel than i did 18months ago! anyway get it sorted nd enjoy it! also highway milafe should be 450+ on GOOD FUEL. what fuel do you use? ive gotten 220kms from cheap e10 and withh the same driving on bp ultimate 400kms...

Yea, need to fix it asap and enjoy it xD... I'm using Unleaded fuel from Shell... Is that good?



brake squeeling could probly be kknocked off the list with a change of pads and new discs or machining them.

relatively cheap exercise too :)

i found i was accidentally switching the highbeam on when indicating when i first got my car but i got used to it... maybe thats it? is it feeling loose?
could be missing some springs inside it or something.

not sure about it auto cancelling really easily...
i thought that was caused by small teeth inside at various angles of turn
wouldn't make sense that u got more of them lol!

How much is changing new discs and pads cost... I recently switch to my friend's mechanic which is more well known and professional. My previous mechanic couldn't check most of the problem that my car has and I think he is trying to ripped me off? Cause he told me that to change my CV Joint will cost me 400 <<<< only the cost of the cv joint (right and left) not including labour... BUT I saw them selling on ebay for 198 for both...

And the highbeam is not missing any spring or what, The spring is still there, it will still click if I really turn on the highbeam.. BUT it will also comes on when I just touch it a lil, just a light touch then it comes on... I'm guessing the wiring problem but I don't know how to fix it...

70NYD
27-03-2010, 10:43 AM
the highbeam would not be a wiring problem. the stalk is probably warn out. its easy to replace it and if u get the replacment stalk from the wreckers it should be cheap 2.
where doeas it leak oil? the general place for the BP is the dizzy O ring (5 min worth of work if u mark out where the dizzy was to start of with (so u dont **** up the timing)
as for the seccond most common oil leak on the BP is the cam cover. its about 20 min work of work, most of which involves removing the gasket gue that makes up the corner seals for where cams are. the cover should be torqued down properly as well.. but yeah that would fix (should fix) most of the leaks..
hope this helps

mikey_something
27-03-2010, 10:52 AM
my brakes and all that was under $200... i cant remember exactly

miah87
27-03-2010, 11:01 AM
where doeas it leak oil?


I don't know what do you call that but I can see oil just beside the rocker cover... The one where the plug leads are connected... I guess that's the place you need to cover when washing the engine... Hope you understand what I'm saying.. hehe

project.r.racing
27-03-2010, 11:28 AM
thats the dissy O ring as stated above. its a common issue with these engines.

miah87
27-03-2010, 11:35 AM
Do you know how much is it to repair? According to my mechanic it is very expensive...

Clean_Cookie
27-03-2010, 11:42 AM
LOL @ mechanic. to replace the actual DIZZY then yes, 300ish i think (maybe more from MAZDA) but the o-ring (which i need to replace) is like $5 from repco or equivilant.

70NYD
27-03-2010, 01:42 PM
not even that lol
the dizzy is expensive cus its not just a dizzy, its a coil integrated as well.
to replace the dissy o ring
MOST IMPORTANTLY - CLEAN THE SURFACES WHERE THE DIZZY AND ENGINE MEET(AS VIEWED FROM ABOVE) (ie if two drinking cups are touching by the bottoms, you would clean the walls of the glasses where they join, sorry i dont know how to explain this better) AFTER CLEANING THE WALLS OF DIZZY/ENGINE SHANK THEN TAKE A WIDE BLADED FLAT SCREW DRIVER AND PLACE IT PERPENDICULAR TO THE JOIN BETWEEN THE DIZZY AND ENGINE. THEN GENTLY TAP THE SCREW DRIVER WITH A RUBBER MALLET, O IT LEAVES ONE LINE ACCROSS BOTH SURFACES. THIS IS YOUR REFFERENCE LINE TO PUT THE DIZZY BACK IN EXACTLY THE SAME PLACE...

take the cap of the dizzy (dont disconect the wires cus from what im reading u will plug them back wrongly)
after taking the cap of, get a 8mm (or could b 10mm) ring spanner and undo the 2 bolts that hold the dizzy to the engine.
after undoing the bolts, the dizzy should slide out. be carefull not to move the bevel spur gear that comes out of the dizzy around, or find a way to mark where it was (use a permenant marker for this (nicko)). there is a rubber ring on the dizzy. take this of. put the new one on.
put the dizzy back in place, making sure you alligned the gear so it was EXACLTY HOW IT WAS BEFORE
retighten everything making sure to allign the dizzy according to the marks you made at the start.
put the cap back on and start the engine.
if its missfiring its most likely that you did not align the gear properly, as the teeth might make it slip out of alignment when ur putting it back in
sorry about the long winded explenation but i was trying to put it in simplest of terms, so that you can do it your self and not get screwed by ur friend mechanic..

miah87
27-03-2010, 02:00 PM
That sounds so complicated, I wish I have a friend like you guys can teach me something bout engine...

NewGTXowner
27-03-2010, 02:26 PM
To be safe, i recommend 14.5 inch rims. It's in between the heavy and large factor.

70NYD
27-03-2010, 02:54 PM
wtf is a 14.5 in rim?? u mean wide?

Ford Prefect
27-03-2010, 05:32 PM
wtf is a 14.5 in rim?? u mean wide?
I think he means 14x5

70NYD
27-03-2010, 05:40 PM
that wouldnt improve his cunsumption by much. it would but not by much
i have 18x7.5 and i get 500 from a tank..
problem in his lies in other parts.
besides my 18x7.5 dont weight much more (if at all) than the stock steelies

miah87
27-03-2010, 07:03 PM
Yea, I don't think the wheels will make a car have a super bad fuel consumption... Beside mine is currently 14" rims... Looking for an 18 or 17 now... xD

Clean_Cookie
27-03-2010, 10:32 PM
go 17's for cost of tyres and rims imho.


ill replace mine tomorrow but just readjust the timing yay.

miah87
27-03-2010, 10:52 PM
I'm always looking at firesport and ebay for white light weight 17 wheels... White wheels seems so rare...

70NYD
27-03-2010, 11:28 PM
yeah 17 will be way better for tires.. my tires make me cringe at the replacement cost..
adding 1kg to the wheel is like adding 2 anywhere else on the car because of rotating inertia. heavy wheels are awesome for fuel consumption on the freeways and open roads but kill on city driving.
width of the wheel that is driven does not make an impact on the consumption, but width of undriven wheels makes a difference.
all of these differences are not that great however like u said :p
here is some food for thought. my wheels were gold when i got them. but for around 400 u can powdercoat them whatever colour u want. so get some that u love and change the colour.
also ARI i think is selling his white 18s (exactly same as myn)

here i even looked for the link ;)
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16189

miah87
27-03-2010, 11:37 PM
Powdercoat: Will the colour comes off after a while?

I just hope putting 17" won't slow down my acceleration...

70NYD
27-03-2010, 11:49 PM
nah powdercoat is awesome. it doesnt come off easily either (i only have a single chip after a year and thats due to a rock on the free way but that was within 1st 3 months, still hasent chippd past that point ;))
it does involve taking the tyres of the rims but (about 5-10 per wheel from most tyre shopps)
also after u paint them however way, make sure u stress to the tyre shop to use pleanty of lubricant when putting the tyres back on, otherwise u might get a chip straight away :eek:

miah87
02-04-2010, 07:07 PM
Hey guys, all I need is for you to read what I'm writing here and reply some thought if you have one... I'm really having a hard time deciding... These are the few cars that I'm thinking of buying:

If you find that this post is too annoying, please ignore me... xD otherwise I will really appreciate everyone who read this... Thank you very much

As phildough told me in the other thread (do not buy abused car) which is this:

First car:
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8382928&YearFromShort=1637&__Qpb=true&Cr=4&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|0||pCar_RankSort_Int32 |1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&keywords=&__N=1216%201247%201282%201252%204294963846%2042949 63593%201518%20903%201622%20%201637&SearchAction=N&silo=1011&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=234&__sid=1266CE9E472C

Note: I'm gonna get this to a mechanic for inspection (anyone heard of promax?) He's quite good at turbo I guess or car like this... So, if the car is abused, he'll know it by checking on the engine am I rite? I guess not all turbo cars are abused cars ( just depending on how the driver drives...)

Second car:
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8484623&keywords=&tsrc=allcarhome&SearchAction=N&__Nne=15&MileageTo=753&PriceTo=443&__No=15&PriceFrom=462&YearFromShort=1637&silo=1011&seot=1&__sid=1266CE9E472C&__N=1216%201247%201282%20462%20443%20903%201518%20 1637%20753%201622%204294965340&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|0||pCar_RankSort_Int32 |1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&Cr=0&trecs=48&__Qpb=true

Third car:
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8437592&keywords=&SearchAction=N&__Nne=15&MileageTo=753&PriceTo=443&__No=360&PriceFrom=461&YearFromShort=1640&EngineCCFrom=601&silo=1011&seot=1&__sid=1266CE9E472C&__N=1216%201247%201282%201252%201518%20903%20461%2 0443%201640%20753%20601%20613%201622&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_RankSort_Int32 |1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&EngineCCTo=613&Cr=1&trecs=423&__Qpb=true

Fourth car:
http://www.tradingpost.com.au/Automotive/Used-Cars/Small-Medium-Family-Prestige-Cars/AdNumber=D616100195483?BackToResult=true&AdOnTop=

Fifth car:
http://www.tradingpost.com.au/Automotive/Used-Cars/Small-Medium-Family-Prestige-Cars/AdNumber=W1395146?BackToResult=true&AdOnTop=


For second, fourth and fifth cars:
How are the prizes? Are they reasonable or too expensive?