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Clean_Cookie
13-08-2011, 09:22 PM
as requested by Ben!

this will be the hive of activity in the coming months - pending $$$ and work hours.


A picture after getting the clutch sorted - sort of... still needs to be fully bled as theres still heaps of air (as i discovered 1/2way up the street lol!) in the lines =no clutch!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/FILE0073.jpg

looks good from that angle (call it a Marc shot) :p
So far:
wednesday: i saw the car on ebay
Thursday: i went to look at the car.
yesterday i Bid and won the car.
today: i drove and got the car. i also bypassed the critical parts of the car alarm to make it go. then after being all excited it worked, the clutch cyclinder is gone.
Tomorrow: go to repco, buy o ring seals, rocker cover seals, new slave/master cyclinders. fix the problems. remove bloody car alarm and make it respectible. find out why the cig lighter socket is missing yet has cigs in the ash tray (YUCK!) and the barrel on the floor. also collect the $10+ in coins on the floor. give it a good clean and stick something nice-smelling into it. then if i could be bothered start pulling the back end apart and seeing what needs replacing.

future plans:

v6 brakes- Purchased and almost installed
BP-T
g series box purchased
LSD
rear tail lights -purchased
painted beaver panel
short shifter -purchased
gear boot/knob -purchased
MS seats in White. -purchased
retrim door cards in white.
new steering wheel purchased
respray white
skirts, spoiler (added for free :p) and front lip.
new wheels in black.
EL dials -Installed
chrome door handles inside -to be transferred from exsiting car
polished sills. - to be transferred from existing car
front/rear strut braces- purcahsed rear, front from existing car
new suspension -purchased
rear swaybar -to be transferred from existing car
new bushes throughout. -started
good sound system.
GOOD alarm which is actually hard to disable.
darker tint.
AGT sticker! -purchased
custom sub box. -purchased supplies
ARC intake box- if it fits with the turbo gear.
rain/wind deflectors.
personalised plates in white/black.
timeframe: 18months.
budget: 10k. (including sale of my current car)



A more detailed list of parts I've replaced or Bought already- and waiting for rego, simply for my benefit


Engine:
New 10-40W Penrite +ryco filter
New Rocker Cover Gasket
New Dizzy O-Ring
New copper (std) Spark Plugs
New Intake Pipe
New O2 Sensor
New Fuel Filter
Injector Cleaner



Brakes: v6 assemblies painted in HT gloss Black
New RDA Slotted disks
New QFM A1RM Street/Track pads
High Temp Brake Fluid



Front:
New C-V joints, shafts and nuts
New Bottom Ball joints
New Tie-Rod ends
New Gearshift Bushing set
New Strut tops
New Front indicators
New Clear indicators



Rear:
Used hatch with glass and spoiler rewired
Used rear bumper bar
New Tail lights



Interior:
New EL Dials
New Chrome Guage Rings
Used Short shifter
Used MS CF gearshift knob
Used Nardi Leather 350mm steering wheel off BJ + original Airbag
Used MS Seats
Used door handles
Used door sills




TO DO:

fix rear damage
Paint over rust converter in rear
Replace all suspension bushings (and get correct part numbers for them)
New swaybar links - (adjustable worth it?)
New brake hoses (compare price with braided steel hose)
Wheels from Rupe...
Tyres from option1
Degrease engine bay again
install rear brake assemblies and clean throughly
Clean underbody and rust converter
Get injectors ultrasonic cleaned
Install parts from HT...
sell HT for $10K. haha.
















also. looking into the Legalities and stuff for the BP-T (after sorting though the bickering about P plate rules etc- never realised how much it was complained about!!!)

i seem to have a fairly decent understanding regarding it

no more than 3.4 litres capacity, turboed = ok :)

mod plate required for swap.

"1. If the engine was an option in the model of car you are using, and all pollution equipment applicable to the engine (as used in the original car) has been used, then no testing is required.

2. If the car was not an option in the car you are using, but is a production engine from another car and all applicable pollution equipment has been used, then no testing is required because 'legal reasoning' suggests that the engine already complies.

3. In the case of a brand new engine (including an engine you build yourself using a brand new block), testing will be required, but the emissions standards applicable at the year of manufacture of the vehicle need to be adhered to.

VicRoads also said that an engineering certificate is required when fitting any engine which was not a factory option on that vehicle. If the engine was available as a factory option, equivilent brakes, suspension and steering components need to be used, and no engineering certificate is required."

i can only assume that QLD is SIMILAR.

this means that i can use a GTX/GTR ECU, wiring, sensors, etc and i do NOT have to do an emissions test. BUT can ONLY use the stock gear legally (i.e. no upgraded turbo etc). i assume boost would also be limited to 8psi max as factory...

OR I have to meet the 1997 emissions test and can use whatever I like. (and pay whatever it costs to do the tests....)

is this accurate/up to date - or close to it> seems easy to swap for a low powered conversion, and alot more difficult and $$$ to do it legally and have more power.

DavoAust
13-08-2011, 11:59 PM
You'll want to avoid the emissions test? Heard they're up around $1500-2000.

As for p-plater rules, you're gonna have to go read them again. No mod plates allowed. So no engine swaps to a non-factory engine

project.r.racing
14-08-2011, 06:23 AM
VicRoads and QldTransport have very different rules regarding engine mods. Since the BP and BPT are the same engine, all you need is a turbo mod plate. which is only a smiple inspection to make sure the car will not blow up and the brakes work.

Clean_Cookie
14-08-2011, 06:48 AM
I am off my p plates in January. Car will hopefully registered in a month or so stock then I will start modifying. So Ryan that rule about only adding 10% more power than the highest available for any engine in the model does not apply?

project.r.racing
14-08-2011, 07:22 AM
never heard that 10% rule before. suggest looking at the light vehicle modifications pdf of the QLD DOT website for what you can and cannot do.

Clean_Cookie
14-08-2011, 07:38 AM
Basically no mod plate or emissions testing is required if the upgraded engine uses stock engine and gearbox mounts, and does not exceed more than 110% (115% in some states) of the max optional engine originally available.

Ben
14-08-2011, 01:24 PM
Woot! i was mentioned! haha

Just keep the original engine until you're off your P's then go crazy.. In the mean time you have plenty to keep you occupied.

Glad to see the future mods and i look forward to seeing the end result :D

mikey_something
14-08-2011, 01:38 PM
just noticed the rules have changed for registering a written off car as of 1/8/11 (nsw at least).
might wanna have a check through qld just to make sure the game's still fair play.

A.E
14-08-2011, 05:08 PM
just noticed the rules have changed for registering a written off car as of 1/8/11 (nsw at least).
might wanna have a check through qld just to make sure the game's still fair play.

That was our fault :P gotta love the Lebanese community :P lol

Clean_Cookie
14-08-2011, 06:11 PM
Still ok in qld, checked that before looking at it!!

project.r.racing
14-08-2011, 07:32 PM
Basically no mod plate or emissions testing is required if the upgraded engine uses stock engine and gearbox mounts, and does not exceed more than 110% (115% in some states) of the max optional engine originally available.so? get a mod plate, prblem solved! more powah!

Clean_Cookie
14-08-2011, 07:49 PM
yes but then it has to pass emissions testing. i havent called up yet but am going to find some accurate up to date info at least. panel beating is next on the list. also, i want to paint my rear beaver panel in white/black, and was wondering if its actually legal to do so, or whether the reflectiveness of the panel as is is required. (obviously i wouldnt paint over the lights etc.) becuase i could easily get away with a bit of bog and plastic weld then paint over it and stick it back on once i sort the boot out... saves me buying another just to paint it again...?


it seems any mechanic can give me a RWC and then it gets thoroughly looked over by the DOT to see its been fixed to appropriate standards. my next question is, is there any reason why i couldnt just fix the rear damage (as thats what got it written off) and then register it with all the dents in it? being that the sooner i can get it registered, 1 it can sit on the road until I clear the side of vegetation to get it into the back yard, and 2, becuase the less time its been off the road the easier it MAY be to get it back onto it? downside is that id be paying $10 a week to have it sit there in rego.

but for now its running ok, actually sounds pretty good for a stock car... much better than my annoying exhaust with a good induction note. found the manuals and service papers and has been pretty much serviced every 10,000Ks since new. which is good. all the windows slide nicely, the doors shut properly and in general much nicer inside than mine... and after stuffing around getting supplied the wrong parts AGAIN and driving to mt gravatt and back to indro, the ford laser clutch slave cyclinder fits, and the one listed for the 1997 BA hatch is not. weird. tomorrow arvo is carefully pulling away the interior and exterior to get the damage sussed and calling wrecking yards and HOPING that ABC wreckers have an all you can carry on wednesday...that would make my day and project a million times cheaper/easier (they had a white hatch with an intact rear hatch with a totalled front, complete with bumper in white :D)

project.r.racing
14-08-2011, 08:47 PM
yes but then it has to pass emissions testing. i havent called up yet but am going to find some accurate up to date info at least.no it does not. no testing in queensland. again read the pdf i suggested.

you are not doing a engine replacement. replacement in ADR land means you are swapping orignal for something different, ie no. of cyliners, change of capacity etc.

you are swapping a BP engine to a BP engine.

or read the Code Of Practice for Qld vehicles. Especially section LA3. all turbo mods only require good engineering to be an allowable modification. using stock parts which all have been used previously and passed ADRs make the job easier.

Clean_Cookie
14-08-2011, 09:00 PM
Ok. Will do! Does this potentially make the addition of standalone EMS, larger turbos etc. Alter this and can possibly result as defect due to being passed with stock gear? Anyway I've got alot to consider before buying an engine...

Clean_Cookie
18-08-2011, 09:20 PM
so. a little more progress and a little more money = this:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0133.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0116.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0114.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0110.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0111.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0125.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0130.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0107.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0106.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0117.jpg




a semi-complete car! still have to re-bleed the clutch and remove the old alarm wiring and put the interior back together and itll be swell. no radio/speakers yet either. that will come last.

what i have done today/yesterday is: replace mirrors, rear hatch, bumper and do some home panel beating (i.e somewhat carefully placed rubber mallet strikes... and then some.) turned out that when i installed this undamaged hatch, the rear of the car (with the lock!) was about 2cm too short and had all been pushed in. so after about 2 hours of looking, checking and bashing, the end result is a nicely opening/closing boot, with an almost perfect seal exccept for the main damage. (which is really not that bad once the old crumpled stuff was removed!)

so, i will go to the panel shop to see if they can do anything for a reasonable price (to fix the paint/rust and bash it a bit more + pricing on a beating on the roof.

so, im am very happy so far, its still cost well under $1000 and runs well. a/c didnt seem to trouble it this arvo either. ran carby cleaner through it too. no oil leaks, YAY!!!

Clean_Cookie
18-08-2011, 09:21 PM
gah. screwed up the order. oh well. also, the wiring for the hatch lights/wipers are different so have to rewiire that too... :(

project.r.racing
19-08-2011, 07:24 AM
i would just do the panel beating on the back section yourself. it is all hidden by plastic panels and the rear bumper, so it doesn't have to be prefect, or even white in colour.

piece of wood, heavy ounce rubber mallet, smack it hard in a few places, sand by hand the rust, (if much/any), spray anti-rust from a can, done.

Clean_Cookie
19-08-2011, 07:44 AM
Thing is, its got a bloody hollow section, so to get access id have to pull apart the seam, remove the entire top inside bit where the latch is, then its easy from there. Had the mallet and wood out in force yesterday. Any suggestions for splitting and rejoining the seam?

NaughtyGT
19-08-2011, 08:09 AM
alot of mis-information on this thread guys. Sorry but you need to research & ask the right questions to cut through the bull****! An emissions test is only necessary when you want to replace original engine with custom modifications. Custom meaning, non-factory replacement engine parts being used.

Here goes for the basics only on boosted engine replacement, whether or not vehicle is deemed a repairable write-off:

1) If you use a same model/year turbocharged/SC'd engine in any aprticular model vehicle, you do not need to satisfy any regulations! The emissions standard of any factory engin suffices! Period!

2) As long as you use a newer factory turbocharged engine as a replacement in your car, regardless of the model, as long as original turbo, ECU & ALL emissions equipment is retained for install, factory turbo bolt ons, all sensors etc, you are OK!

The factory emissions standard for any engine satisfies the engineer! It's the emissions standard of a particular engine & it's management system that you must comply with. FULLSTOP!

Hope this clears up basic info for some ;) There is a whole lot more to mods & plating but this was to get to the initial acceptable ruling. Then you go from here.

P.S. An emissions test does not guarantee you will pass for the $1600 it costs! You are not told why you failed. You just have to keep doing test infinitely until it passes. No guarantee whatsoever is given by emissions testing centres. The ADL standard is just that. A set standard you must meet!

Rupewrecht
19-08-2011, 08:41 AM
blah blah

Laws are different between states Tim, you might want to check your facts first.

Mad Mat
19-08-2011, 09:13 AM
Bla Blar Blar.

leave him be ;) he's a good egg hee hee

ow and ryan... i'd just leave it hey... if it looks the part then leave it... fix the rust like ryan said but do the best u can with the body...

it looks really good now anyway.. ;)

Ben
19-08-2011, 09:16 AM
I'd leave it, no one will know apart from you (and the rest of this forum *shifty eyes* )

It's looking great anyways! I still see you have your P plate sticked taped from the cruise :P

NaughtyGT
19-08-2011, 10:31 AM
Laws are different between states Tim, you might want to check your facts first.

referring to "blah blah", that wasn't called for Dan. What are the facts I need to check :confused: I've found laws are not that different between states really. Just a few mods not allowed in some but are in others. I was not having a go @ any member in particular @ all. Just wanting members to get the facts with such an ambiguous topic.

It still stands that you do not need an emissions test if replacement engine is a factory turbo engine & ECU & all sensors are kept with original engine & all necessary sensors & ECU feeds are retained in original vehicle harness &/or the ADR standard for replacement engine is more current than the vehicle you are installing it in. Not the other way around, which another member here informed me......

Anyway, if that's blah blah, than good :)

Rupewrecht
19-08-2011, 10:37 AM
referring to "blah blah", that wasn't called for Dan. What are the facts I need to check :confused: I've found laws are not that different between states really. Just a few mods not allowed in some but are in others. I was not having a go @ any member in particular @ all. Just wanting members to get the facts with such an ambiguous topic.

It still stands that you do not need an emissions test if replacement engine is a factory turbo engine & ECU & all sensors are kept with original engine & all necessary sensors & ECU feeds are retained in original vehicle harness &/or the ADR standard for replacement engine is more current than the vehicle you are installing it in. Not the other way around, which another member here informed me......

Anyway, if that's blah blah, than good :)

Sorry if the 'blah blah blah come off as rude, i just didn't see any point in quoting it all. As someone who has personally investigating emissions testing in Vic, i know it's different in Vic compared to NSW and QLD specifically. So a lot of what you said itsn't relevant to his situation, that's all.

NaughtyGT
19-08-2011, 10:41 AM
Sorry if the 'blah blah blah come off as rude, i just didn't see any point in quoting it all. As someone who has personally investigating emissions testing in Vic, i know it's different in Vic compared to NSW and QLD specifically. So a lot of what you said itsn't relevant to his situation, that's all.

Fair enough. But you know I go overboard with info Dan :) I been so badly mucked around with my project, as you well know, so I tend to use the overboard approach with info. My bad!

Btw, all best with project OP :cool:

Clean_Cookie
19-08-2011, 11:23 AM
It'll be an Older engine going in. What if I rebuild the current one and add turbo from gtx/r and use its loom/ sensors???

Mad Mat
19-08-2011, 11:35 AM
That should work... I've seen it done before.. I have a bg loom what was used on a FTC motor running a t28 turbo... If u would like it I could sell it to u cheap ;)

marcs_sp20
19-08-2011, 12:02 PM
I think instead of bickering at each other, why not acknowledge the work thats gone into this project already, in just a matter of days! ;)

Well done ryan, cant wait to see this up and running :D

NaughtyGT
19-08-2011, 12:13 PM
It'll be an Older engine going in. What if I rebuild the current one and add turbo from gtx/r and use its loom/ sensors???

It will be more difficult to get OK'd if you use an older engine, unless it is same CC capacity & not older ADR emissions standard. If you decide to rebuild the current engine, @ least it will be favoured by authorities ;) In the end, as far as engineering/authorities are concerned, as long as you can satisfy emissions, it will be acceptable. Otherwise, if it's registered, who's going to know? All depends on how it sits with you & peace of mind.....

Clean_Cookie
19-08-2011, 12:35 PM
I want it 100% legal, minus the hids. Others will be driving it occasionally and couldn't have them booked for an illegal car... Waiting on a response Bout the ms seats, as they are legally installed in some rx7s with mod plates, even though they are missing the a tick, for obvious reasons. Also for insurance reasons. Once painted and beaten will be comprehensively insured for agreed value. May cost 1000 a year but that's ok.

Clean_Cookie
20-08-2011, 07:32 PM
Ok, still struggling with the clutch system :( its leaking down the pedal and a small leak in one of the joins, can you just replace the screw connector or is it likely the bell end is also stuffed? A master cylinder is what I need to fix the pedal leak hey... The clutch will be the end of me! At least its relatively cheap...

Clean_Cookie
22-08-2011, 06:54 PM
well picked up new spark plugs, some more brake fluid, the correct master cyclinder, bosh o2 sensor and a 4guage wiring kit which was onsale for 1/2 price for $230 which was quite reasonable i thought. managed to fit the master cyclinder and 2 hours later have all the leaks fixed...i hope! chewed through another 500ml of dot 4 cause it just kept getting air bubbles, given up after an hour of messing around! oh btw dont get brakefluid on lightswitches. it makes them another colour :p oops!

so that was my fun filled arvo i guess. now hopefully with some new fuel and a IAC and MAF sensor clean, new plugs and o2 sensor, should work a treat. also bought a new fuel filter once this old horrible stuff is gone! thinking of just stealing my plates and driving it around to burn it off, but knowing my luck id get caught!!!


still need to buy some sanding blocks and a bench grinder before tackling the body repairs. the good news is that it used to leak and now it doesnt! YAY. tomorrow will be removing the rest of the interior and removing old alarm wiring and possibly removing more rust/dents from the roof and bonnet. then ill find out how good I am at painting hehehe.

marcs_sp20
22-08-2011, 07:00 PM
I want it 100% legal, minus the hids. Others will be driving it occasionally and couldn't have them booked for an illegal car... Waiting on a response Bout the ms seats, as they are legally installed in some rx7s with mod plates, even though they are missing the a tick, for obvious reasons. Also for insurance reasons. Once painted and beaten will be comprehensively insured for agreed value. May cost 1000 a year but that's ok.

Hey Ryan, did you end up finding an answer about the seats & legalities?

Clean_Cookie
22-08-2011, 07:11 PM
not yet. been just trying to get a moveable car so far!

Clean_Cookie
26-08-2011, 06:43 PM
Ok, some more progress and a few more questions. Went to the wreckers again today adnd found a perfect front indicators and a perfect afm to intake manifold pipe from a p2. Problem is that there are slight differences meaning I now have a huge hole where the p3 version is plugged when moulded... Why so many changes lol. I'll have to make something which looks stock for it I guess :(
did a little body filling and sanding on the front bumper, hopefully it'll look a tad better once resprayed. I tried to use 3m plastic primer and it just ran straight off! Never used it on painted surfaces but I sanded and used wax and grease remover .. Will try again tomorrow. Scored two 6m twisted and shielded RCA leads from this wreck too. All up coat $44. Considering one new one was that... Also bought another $300 worth of tools.

Clean_Cookie
26-08-2011, 06:47 PM
Oh replaced spark plugs and master cylinder too. Runs awesome. :D glad mechanicals are out of the way. Question. My strut tops are cracked, I assume that's a fail for wrc... Want to use ryans old setup but unsure if that's worse idea.

project.r.racing
26-08-2011, 06:54 PM
cracked strut isolators are and big fail in rwc world.

using coilovers is 50/50, will depend on mech doing the rwc. some will pass coilovers as they know they a healthy and safer than worn old bouncy shocks, others will require you do mod them so they cannot be lowered enough to make the car have less than 100mm clearance.

you know what would be a win for this project?




























roll cage! :D

Rupewrecht
26-08-2011, 08:30 PM
It's not legal or safe, but you could coat the valley of the strut tops with a black silicone to make them look new and full the cracks. It might last well enough to get you past a RWC.

Clean_Cookie
26-08-2011, 08:36 PM
Maybe a rwc but not a full 24hr inspection by the dot...

Clean_Cookie
29-08-2011, 07:25 PM
so. todays task (after paying for that bloody fine...) was to get the wiring sorted for the hatch. for those un-aware like I was, mazda changed the design and took some shortcuts in the series 3 (like using smaller conductors and connectors...)

so all the wires matched up, i had an extra wire though as they wired series 3 up with 2 seperate revese light feeds... dunno why but they did! so with a little solder, heatshrink and black tape i now have a factory looking finish with a s3 connector :D

tested everything out and thankfully everything works.


to do: strut tops (or use coilovers...still unsure.), fix minimal rust in spare wheel space, replace drivers side seatbelt as i noticed it was a little too loose (did not retract on its own at the end- wil open it up and see if it just needs a little TLC), new steering wheel when rupe ships the bloody big parcel! :p, and of course the stuffing around with the rear damage.

oh and clean up and reseal the cv joints...apart from that, mechanically it works awesome.... would easily get away with driving it around now! yay.

oh also replaced the cracked front indicators and ordered clear side ones from Thailand - whether they arrive is yet to be seen...

mikey_something
29-08-2011, 08:05 PM
I also ordered clear side indicators from Thailand today! Lol
If you open up the seat belt and are able to fix it up give us a quick tutorial. Mines started to retract a bit slowly.

Clean_Cookie
29-08-2011, 08:28 PM
I also ordered clear side indicators from Thailand today! Lol
If you open up the seat belt and are able to fix it up give us a quick tutorial. Mines started to retract a bit slowly.
How much did you pay? I think mine were $24 delivered or something...apparently parts shops aren't allowed to sell any seatbelts anymore, due to idiots installing the wrong ones or using cheap nuts and bolts, so now I dunno where to get a new one if that's what's required... Any suggestions where to get one from? I know they'll be somewhere around $200 just cause they can be...

70NYD
29-08-2011, 08:32 PM
Woah I am very impressed how quickly this has come together. To be honest I missed this thread earlier :) good work man, keep it up ;)
Just to mention, you can't legally 'fix' a seat belt, and why the hell would you.. You wouldn't wear a broken condom right?
Besides if you manage to open it up completely without breaking anything have fun with the spring haha

Get the coilovers from Ryan, the timing is almost too perfect ;)
Good luck :D it will be a great car when finished :)

On where to get one from
http://www.apvautomotive.com/safetyproducts/wps/wcm/connect/APVAutomotive/Home/APVAutomotive_SA/
When I worked my old job, a lot was to do with seatbelts fortunately. Klippan(autoliv) from memory do alot of the Australian cars as they are ADR approved
For a fastener you need a 5/8 unf high tensile bolt, but it should come with the kit from autoliv along with the washers and spacers if required.
The ELR type seatbelts can only be installed one way, so if you put the wrong side in it won't work straight up :)
Best of luck man :)

maztech
29-08-2011, 08:52 PM
Most common is the top loop the seat belt goes through gets a wax / dirt build up on it , scrape it off and the seatbelt will be ok

Clean_Cookie
29-08-2011, 08:53 PM
Coils are sold... Just looked on my phone on the website and only listed up to 1995? Code was KW1-7704... Ill check dimensions later, can you buy from them or via someone else? Thanks Tony.

Regarding identification on the roads, would "ZM ZOOM" in white and black look the goods?

Clean_Cookie
31-08-2011, 11:41 AM
at home, buggered back. sucks...alot... will have a look at my seatbelt and if its not easily cleaned then ill get this one: KW1-7704.


trying to get more info on modifications and the quality of repair required to the rear (word on teh interwebs is that they will measure everything and it has to be perfect to stock measurements...which would be a heck of a lot harder than my rough but still safe method of bashing it out into the rough shape and hiding it with trim!) anyway we shall see.

Clean_Cookie
31-08-2011, 12:12 PM
ok, so i finally found something useful on the qld transport site, the list of mod plates available, the test sheets which are filled out by the engineer as well as all of the specific rules surrounding them. so its easy to figure out what mod plate i need (for engine swap) and what i need to do right....

i wish!
from here: http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/b3ea8c53-b6a1-489e-933d-dac4054f21ba/codeofpracticelightvehiclesreductions.pdf


for example: LA3 refers to an addition of a turbo/supercharger added to an existing engine (i.e. swap out a gtx into mine, get it checked at DOT and change engine numbers, without the turbo bolted on, go home, bolt on turbo, off to engineers, get a LA3 plate bolted on, back to DOT to report the change and wala...) well not really...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/LA3checklistpage1-2.png

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/LA3checklistpage1-3.png

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/LA3checklistpage1.png

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/LA3checklistpage1-1.png

all pretty basic, but what stands out as a red flag is: "was the vehicle available with a turbo charged engine?" which is NO, so going by that I have to apply for a different plate -classed as a engine swap perhaps...

it would be fantastic if i could in fact use this plate as it would not require emissions testing as far as eye (I?) can see...it also states i must use either an optional engine as offered or the original engine...depends whether they mean phyical engine or same make of engine (i.e. from a BG or familia as a BP)

Clean_Cookie
31-08-2011, 01:00 PM
also, found something of interest for people with MS seats requiring engineering...

"Seating & Seat Belts

All seating, seat belt and child restraint modifications must use approved parts:-

Seats must comply with ADR 3 or VSB 5a/b – see links in “Contact Us”
Seat belts must comply with ADR 4, AS 2596, E, ECE, EEC marked.
Child restraints and anchorages must comply with ADR5, ADR 34

Mounting of seats, seat belts and child restraint anchorages must be in accordance with vehicle codes of practice – please contact us for information.

DB Autotech can design and test seats to VSB 5a/b (National Codes of practice for seat manufacture - see links in “Contact Us”). In the past we have designed, tested and approved folding seats in the back of prime mover cabs and passenger vehicles."

no idea how much itll cost, but i will call these guys tomorrow and see what they can do for me in regards to mod plates for various stuff...

project.r.racing
31-08-2011, 02:26 PM
or read the Code Of Practice for Qld vehicles. Especially section LA3. all turbo mods only require good engineering to be an allowable modification. using stock parts which all have been used previously and passed ADRs make the job easier.You finally found something useful on the website?

p.s. Don't look at what is allowable for 4WD vehicles, you car ain't 4WD.

Clean_Cookie
31-08-2011, 07:05 PM
see, thats what was a little strange, thats the entire section on LA3... emailed DB engineering in sailsbry, hopefully he can give me some prices on mod plates and some guidance.

on a more productive note, managed to remove the steering wheel and airbag without injury, the front dash and get to the guage cluster. 1/2 through swapping the dials i bought and now a little confused, it seems as though you overlay them ontop of the originals, becuase the holding/resting pin is permanantly melted to the original...

good news is that i got all 4 needles off without damaging them - YAY.



can someone please do a chop for me? white hatch, with 16 inch MS tourings....

http://web2.airmail.net/theman/mswheelcloseup.jpg

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=102748

onto a white hatch?

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3311/3301/8276650003_large.jpg

mikey_something
31-08-2011, 08:54 PM
I didn't remove the needles and yes they just go over the top :)

z100
31-08-2011, 09:47 PM
can someone please do a chop for me? white hatch, with 16 inch MS tourings....


This do?

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/6361/whitehatchmsp.jpg

Back wheel is a bit wonky, but I'm doing uni work atm and without a better shot, best I could do!

Clean_Cookie
01-09-2011, 04:27 AM
I recon that looks awesome. Better than I expected, thanks!

z100
01-09-2011, 06:46 PM
I recon that looks awesome. Better than I expected, thanks!

No worries, love the MS Touring rims. They look the nuts against the white!

Clean_Cookie
01-09-2011, 08:28 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MC6q_-2rfI

heres a video of my new dials waiting to go in. still need to drill holes for the wiring and mount it in the car but a quick bench test to satisfy peoples interest... from www.moman.pl quite expensive but isnt everything! painted the needles with a translucent paint designed for putting on ceremic cups and whatnot. without baking it (for obvious reasons) it stays soft, making it easier to scrape the unwanted stuff off the sides. using masking tape would have been almost impossible!

repainted my bumper too, with moderate sucess.

Clean_Cookie
04-09-2011, 02:45 PM
so ive picked up a gearbox, painted my dials, let me know what you think!

still have to reconfigure all the messy wiring, clean the interior, and get motivated to fix that rear damage! ive got until my birthday to get it done aparently, and have the other one sold... according to dad... hours of research to do before then.. and hundreds of dollars too. good thing is that i am still enjoying the process!

Ben
04-09-2011, 04:11 PM
Need more pics! Gauges look great!

Clean_Cookie
04-09-2011, 05:02 PM
oops. forgot to put it up lol. sidetracked.... sigh.
as you can probably see, with my $120 video camera photos (which are average!) the needles are barely pushed on. let me know what you think, and what could be better.
Daytime:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0145.jpg
Night-time!
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0146.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0147.jpg

Needles only:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0150.jpg

side view at the moment:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0151.jpg
hopefully, my back permitting I can remove the dash and remove all superceeded cabling from the immobilizer, and get it the dimming module wired up and changed to suit if required. Fix or replace the seat belts, if I have the option of getting red coloured ones, is that too over the top? Not sure over the white MS seats! The silver will hopefully blend with the polished sills and door handles. Won't go so far as spraying the dash or trim though. Makes the whole car look cheap IMHO...

mikey_something
04-09-2011, 06:49 PM
If you ever get the gauges dimming in sync with the other lights, give me a buzz and a wiring diagram. I've tried every combo of the 4 wires on the dimmer roller and the best I got was them dimming inversely (one bright one off and vice versa)
I assume it's the way each one reacts to dimming.
One is voltage dimmed and one is current dimmed *I think*

Clean_Cookie
04-09-2011, 07:04 PM
Both voltage dimmed. Look at my YouTube video. I'll just wire it to the PCB on the back, might be easier, then attach the tranny to the cluster too. Make it easier to install. Already soldered the three dials onto a single connector. Need to get some whiter bulbs too if I can.

Clean_Cookie
05-09-2011, 07:36 PM
well this arvo i bought a bench grinder, angle grinder + flap and grind disks, some spray putty and primer, rust converter, an 8mm drill bit, foam sanding blocks, wet and dry paper and some more grease. went home, stole my mates MIG and did a bit of testing on my old hatch. welded far better than I anticipated on the lowest available setting with cored wire. bought some argon gas but the regulator has a weird attachment so I tried gasless. ground down my brand new 8mm bit on my new bench grinder and did a few test runs to see how well I reduced the cutting angle. still needs a little more, but it happily still cut nicely after a 2mm pilot was drilled. certainly need some practice welding though. cant wait to try my new-found skills and tools on the real thing. perhaps on the weekend... then I can bash out the damage, fill what doesnt want to bash out, or get a replacement panel from the wreckers and weld that in. still no interior progress :(

the final verdict on the turbo conversion is that I can do it legally but I can ONLY use my stock engine and "add a turbo", keeping all emissions equipement the same... not sure if that allows me to add my own programmable ECU or whether they expect a GTX or my stock one (which wouldnt work at all!) to be used...

and my seats can be tested and plated too, so that will mean that others MAY be able to just use my certificate to get their MS seats done too. dont see why they might fail...

decided i might just get new front seatbelts in red. hoping to get this all sorted within the month, ready for the Mod day!

Clean_Cookie
06-09-2011, 09:21 PM
Swapped locks on the rear hatch, may end up just filling the hole when painting. Removed badges and did a post mortem on my welds. Received a new steering wheel, gearknob, pedals, seats and another sticker today too. Seats do need a very good clean up and perhaps new foam on the sides. Now I have to play with my airbag. Yee-ha... :S

NaughtyGT
09-09-2011, 08:04 AM
the final verdict on the turbo conversion is that I can do it legally but I can ONLY use my stock engine and "add a turbo", keeping all emissions equipment the same...

as I alluded to prior lol......

not sure if that allows me to add my own programmable ECU or whether they expect a GTX or my stock one (which wouldnt work at all!) to be used...

No! You have to use the original turbo ECU to avoid engineer paperwork & ADR testing, due to emissions requirement for the engine! Thought someone else woulda chimed in by now. Slackers :rolleyes: Buddy, you have to use the turbo ECU with the turbo engine. Even if you turbo an N/A, still need the fuel mapping/AFRs & sensor reads from the turbo computer. Try and swap a turbo engine/ECU/harness (even from a front cut if you can). This way you have all the bits you need that will be a problem with your stock harness & gear ;) Whilst youmay get away with a stand alone ECU, it will have to be locked off so you may as well save yourself the time & expense & use the J-Spec ECU & be done with all the requirements necessary.......

Keep going man. It'll work out!

Clean_Cookie
09-09-2011, 07:34 PM
Thanks Tim. So, after 4hours with a coat hanger, I gave up trying to break in. Came back and tried just going through the window. Lets just say I wish I had tried that first. Just made it into the valley with my lock with the code on it and got 3 brand new keys cut, one in bright red. $60 But id rather not have this trouble ever again. So, with my door back together I've fitted and somewhat adjusted the dials. They dim with the dash properly but its really flickery when adjusting it. Will see how the voltage output changes as its not smooth like my lab supply unfortunately. Tried fitting the wheel with airbag and after 45minutes of not fitting figured out why. Basically a small spacer is needed to offset the wheel to make the nut flush inside the wheel, either that, or cut 2mm off the bolt...no thanks! Using a gas blow torch to solder was exciting enough. So not much progress but on Sunday I'll have the dash back together. Looks sexy with the dials and wheel. Can't wait to see it with the seats in!

Over and out.

project.r.racing
09-09-2011, 09:10 PM
the final verdict on the turbo conversion is that I can do it legally but I can ONLY use my stock engine and "add a turbo", keeping all emissions equipement the same... not sure if that allows me to add my own programmable ECU or whether they expect a GTX or my stock one (which wouldnt work at all!) to be used...!Incorrect. A BP and BPT are the same motor. You are just adding a turbo.

Treat it as 2 steps to simplify it.
1. engine swap
2. add turbo.

the requirement in Queensland will only be a turbo mod plate.

No! You have to use the original turbo ECU to avoid engineer paperwork & ADR testing, due to emissions requirement for the engine! Thought someone else woulda chimed in by now. Slackers :rolleyes: Buddy, you have to use the turbo ECU with the turbo engine.Again, not in Queensland.

mikey_something
10-09-2011, 10:56 AM
They flicker due to the voltage being insufficient. The transformer hates it.
You can dim it to a point without flicker.
Did you properly insulate the voltage stabilizer? Doing this gave me a larger range of dimming without flicker.

Clean_Cookie
10-09-2011, 05:28 PM
I wrapped in electrical tape and zip-tied the tranny to the plastic support on the back (about 30mm wide in the middle) and I dont understand as with my lab supply, even on 2.5v it would glow and not flicker at all. so it cannot be the actual voltage, more so the ripples in it from the alternator id guess...which is harderto fix.

on a more positive note (like the little pun segue?) my cockpit currently looks like this:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0164.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0156.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0157.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0155.jpg

Got my wheel to fit finally without squashing stuff too much. airbag didnt explode and the light now doesnt flash, meaning its at least plugged in and not shorted... YAY. to get it to fit ill make a guide but basically: drill out the back of the wheel for the clockspring thingos to fit, about a 6mm drill bit. then hacksaw 3mm off the actual bolt, and smooth off. remove plastic from airbag module, and it JUST fits without resitance. im sure itd fit without taking the plastic off but it was a little tight for something so (aparently) fragile. horn works too.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0154.jpg

Painted my spare rear sunvisor/brakelight/washer nozzle piece this arvo in black. i will have to redo it as the wind and dust screwed it up, but it looks a ton better. the other one on the car fell into about 30 pieces when i tried to remove it...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0159.jpg

started drilling out the welds at the back to do more panel beating... theres about 80 holes all up ill have to reweld... so i guess itll take about 3 weeks of spare time to do it-but hey, its free!

also painted a part of the smashed rear garnish, in black. orginally i thought a white panel would look the best, but the black looks good too. keep in mind the lights will be the black style ones -to be installed after its all on the road.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0160.jpg

hmm that photo is too dark... anyway... thoughts opinions or more advice is welcome!

@Tim, why cant they have one set of rules for this country...so bloody complicated and confusing.

@ryan, yes i suppose i could do that, but whats the point really? i know this block has only done 155k, and has been maintained, so nothing can be terribly wrong. or are you suggesting buying a turbo motor, swapping it and then just literally adding the tubro manifold and getting a mod plate>?

NaughtyGT
10-09-2011, 07:01 PM
@Tim, why cant they have one set of rules for this country...so bloody complicated and confusing

because we were once colonies haha :D now where called states ;) yes, they are nationalising some things now but each state likes it's 'sovereignty bull****' Imagine footy if we nationalised it. No more state of origin matches :eek::p

Ben
10-09-2011, 07:49 PM
mmm love the cluster! Looks mad!

Rhys
12-09-2011, 09:00 PM
Lookin good! Can't wait to see it finished. Let me know if you ever need a spare hand doing stuff.

Rhys
12-09-2011, 09:16 PM
Haha aren't we meeting up tomorrow anyways? I suppose that's at 7 though so if you're close by i could come over after work and give you a hand

Rhys
12-09-2011, 09:28 PM
No worries. I'll give you a call or a txt when I'm finished work to see what's happening.

Clean_Cookie
29-09-2011, 08:55 PM
just some pics to show my hard work :p

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/Brakeupgrade2.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/Brakeupgrade1.jpg

its been done before but just confirming, ON MY CAR (P3 I4) everything fits perfect from the old suspension with new v6 stub axle and calipers/rotors. on the front. all thats required on the rear is the stub axle, and 5 stud rear rotors. brakes are identical.

Clean_Cookie
30-09-2011, 06:45 AM
Thanks to Phil, I have an awesome photo of my dash! http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu15/phildough_photos/IMG_1076.jpg

maztech
30-09-2011, 07:03 AM
Looks good , where did you get dials from.

phildough
30-09-2011, 07:17 AM
Looks good , where did you get dials from.
I believe they came from Poland!!!

Must say its a fun project you have there Ryan and those dials actually look better in person than in the photo!!!
Im looking forward to seeing the completed project.

mikey_something
30-09-2011, 07:52 AM
I cant decide whether red needles or stock needles looks better.
They both look great... I just don't wanna remove my needles to paint them :p

Clean_Cookie
01-10-2011, 08:01 PM
@ mikey: both look good, mine arent perfect but it was impossible to get the paint to be a consistant thickness over the whole surface, and keeping the paint off the edges...ugh. took about 5 hours to do the whole thing. worth it but not perfect still...also i need to make a dimmer... maybe tomorrow... just maybe.


anyway for todays progress.

Went to Marcs place and grabbed his stock tyres/rims, and retrieved his ring!

went to repco, bought heatproof paint, tie-rod ends, and a wire brush wheel...

got home, stared at the car and went "i dont really feel like doing anything"...

so I replaced my totally ROOTED sub which was only held onto itself by the voice coil. amazed it still works actually. will buy a ring kit and try my luck, but the new one is a JVC twin voice coil...sounds great!!! (in the HT)

back on track.
bashed, shoved and screamed at the drivers side CV joint (decided to replace it afterall. do it once, do it right...) - there goes the ones for the HT! anyway... 90 minutes later,and less skin on my body, I finally got it off. Ended up using a plumbing wrench as a lever and bashed the handle until it dislodged it... NEVER again. hopefully :D
To my dismay, I noticed that the LHS was leaking from the seal now... GRRR so im not sure what is required to replace the seals - a job for tomorrow when I'm more awake. After comparing the shafts the one I was sold (after spending a good 30 minutes in Repco looking at the catalouge, was about 30mm too short! (585mm long FYI). so back to repco, along with other stuff i no longer needed. Wasted another 30 minutes in the catalouge, and now a 615mm one is coming from Coopers Plains for me... heres hoping!

Back home I fought with the tie-rod ends -which were cheap, and look alot less strong, but should be ok...heres hoping again! what a PITA to get them off. had to use 2 adjustable spanners and only JUST got them off. replaced. yay.

next on the adgenda was cleaning up the brake components ready for painting. also removed the plastic from the wheel arches and underneath. scrubbed the entire wheel arches and emptied about a kilo of dirt from the front mud guards. (HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU LOOK AT YOURS TO AVOID RUST!!!) luckily there is no rust and the paint was in OK condition...

8 battery packs later heres some photos. I was going to paint them white to match the car, as the gold rims would look interesting with silver caliers but now I really love how they've turned out just with a good sand... may buy yet another can of paint and just high-temp clear coat it... suggestions? I am also contemplating spraying the entire wheel arch in a few coats of white, and leaving the plastic black. Haven't seen it done before - and yes, i realise when stones chip it, it will look bad, but thats easily fixed... the paint will be pearled eventually, so the colours will not match at all -and that is the only thing making me re-consider at this point in time.
(just thought it would look cool with white suspension, arms, brakes and wheel arches. (leaving the swaybar and links black)... open for suggestions...

photos are pretty straight forward, mostly comparisons of old vs new and some shiny vs dirty... enjoy another 8+ hours of effort. getting there...slowly. off to repco tomorrow for the bottom joints (which the stub axle sides ontop of) to replace them as well as new bearings - which will need to be pressed in... anyone got the know-how and/or tools to do such a thing? Read a guide on 323F about doing it but looked a bit difficult... how much should I expect to pay for a simple remove and install jobbie on all 4 stub axles...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0165.jpg

MESS:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0167.jpg

Temp Rims:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0170.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0171.jpg

Tie rods:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0172.jpg

Dirt:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0173.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0174.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0175.jpg

Clean:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0176.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0177.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0179.jpg

Washed VS dirty:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0180.jpg

Washed + Armour-All'ed vs dirty -note black oil bottle :D
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0182.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0183.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0184.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0188.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0189.jpg

Clean_Cookie
01-10-2011, 08:03 PM
Brake comparison
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0194.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0196.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0198.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0200.jpg

Yes I realise they are from different sides! time consuming work...
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0202.jpg

thanks for watching this space. more to come tomorrow i guess.

Rhys
02-10-2011, 09:53 AM
Now you've made me want to clean my rotors and callipers.

chewyryce
02-10-2011, 11:34 AM
looking good so far. i think you're gonna get your car on the road faster than i. my black mx5 wont be ready till hopefully January.

Mazda repairs = Frustratingly fun :D

Ben
02-10-2011, 12:06 PM
Looking the goods man! Cant wait to see this when it's finished!

Clean_Cookie
02-10-2011, 12:24 PM
thanks guys. another $110 later today, i have a new 17mm ring spanner (lost at the wreckers months ago I think!), a cqn of VHT GLOSS Black paint (which im 99% sure I will destroy -being rated at 400C...) and 2 new lower ball joints. getting there!
new CV will be here on tuesday and then just wait8iing on GSL for some semi-serious brakes. before i get to that my box is definately leaking so I will consult the Manual and see if I can do it without a press/ SST's...bloody SST's!!!

killing my budget rather quickly but I will get new bushes throughout the entire car next week too (after pay day haha) which will be going in next weekend. ETA for brand new mechanicals maybe a month. still have to replace hoses, tighten the accessories belt and fix this stupid seal. engine appears to have taken well to the gaskets I fed it months ago so the only (easy) one left which needs doing is the sump one... of which i still have from my last conversion and was TOO LAZY to install. yay. never done one before but cant be that hard can it?

decided against doing the bearings due to cost (close to 300 for the set!) and will see how these go and it will be a piece of piss to get them out now that everything is brand spanking new.


my only technical question from today is that these new ball joints/tie-rod ends do not seem to contain grease and are solid. (they dont move side to side) - is that how they are supposed to work or do I need to add grease to them

thanks :)

not much to show but a few more photos.


My trusty drill and workbench.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0205.jpg

The finished product! possibly the worst day for spray painting but it turned out well (only one run on the wet coat on the back, which is probably a record for me!)\
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0207.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0206.jpg

maztech
02-10-2011, 01:05 PM
Looking good you are doing well for a sparkie.
What gearbox seal is leaking?

Clean_Cookie
02-10-2011, 01:24 PM
Passengers side CV seal. And thanks mate :) I teach myself and the money saved on labor is spent on tools.

maztech
02-10-2011, 01:43 PM
No special tools get a bit or rubber grease put it around the inner lip and gently tap into gearbox keep the seal level as you put it in

Clean_Cookie
02-10-2011, 04:22 PM
Sick. Does it just pull out? I'd assume so, considering the force of the cv would prevent it from coming out. Another job, one less old seal i guess!!!

maztech
02-10-2011, 04:28 PM
Yep lever out with a screwdriver ---don't scratch the gearbox lip

Clean_Cookie
02-10-2011, 08:06 PM
fixed. hopefully... turned out that when i went to remove the new shaft, it popped out really easily, so after a closer inspection i hadnt driven it home. the only way i figured i could do that was to tap the end of the shaft with a rubber mallet and now its seated correctly it should be OK. if not, I know how to do it - THANKS JARED!

this arvo I began replacing bushings. Began with the gearshift linkages. first time it took me about 2 hours, this time I did it in less than an hour... still no easier to get the new ones in!!! 5mm of play, hopefully that will reduce when the short shifter goes in...one day!

did more cleaning too. used the wax and grease remover (simply because its easier on my poor shredded hands) to clean the entire power steering assembly which was filthy and leaking, the underbody parts and even the exhaust. didnt even start on the sump or motor/accessories. Also washed the other side of the arch plastic and mudflap. tomorrow I have to get into the sanding again and finish off the front hubs and let them set for 7 days! hopefully then I will have the parts I need.

the rears will need to be done after work too. maybe friday will be another day off and I can get the thing runing again.

NaughtyGT
03-10-2011, 10:27 AM
Good to see you gettin in there & gettin your hands dirty haha :cool: This forum has many folk willing to jump in & help DIY guys. Great to see!

You'll appeciate your beasty better now too ;)

Clean_Cookie
04-10-2011, 09:28 PM
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0208.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/FILE0209.jpg

:)

Clean_Cookie
04-10-2011, 09:31 PM
http://www.323fclub.com/albumi/normal/BA/lantis24.jpg

how bout this scheme ;)

phildough
04-10-2011, 09:54 PM
I can come throw up your car for free if you like.

Clean_Cookie
04-10-2011, 09:59 PM
I'm sorta tempted to do vinyl overlay, it would hide the debts much cheaper :p

phildough
04-10-2011, 11:20 PM
I'm sorta tempted to do vinyl overlay, it would hide the debts much cheaper :p

+1 for this.
Photoshop us an example?

Ben
05-10-2011, 03:15 PM
Rotors look just a bit better :P

Clean_Cookie
06-10-2011, 05:36 PM
Trying from my mobile to create and upload photos, lmk how they come out please.


It's raining and don't expect much :(

Anyway. Went and saw Greg from gsl and picked up some pads kindly ordered for free while I wait for the a1rm pads. Also bought a litre of brake fluid to do the entire system.

So close to having the passengers side done but realised I'd prepped and painted the driver's side caliper! So its assembled and the drivers side hub is ready for paint,.as are both rears. Tomorrow I will get them painted and then hopefully if this new shaft fits (4th time lucky)... I can do.the rears. What a saga! Will also paint the rotors tomorrow too, also in black, or maybe silver...undecided! But I ain't letting them rust again...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0017.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0021.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0019.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0018.jpg

Clean_Cookie
09-10-2011, 02:32 PM
same as on the daily update...

finally installed the correct drivers side CV, im am SO thankful that jobs out of the way!

installed the strut on that side too.

passengers front is complete, minus the plastic at the rear. extremely happy with the result! once I discover where this stupid bolt is I can finish the drivers side.
before and after>
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/Brakeupgrade1.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0059.jpg

maztech
09-10-2011, 02:50 PM
Don't forget to lock the drive shaft nuts ,hit a tab into the groove on the shaft -make sure they are FT.

Clean_Cookie
09-10-2011, 03:04 PM
Don't forget to lock the drive shaft nuts ,hit a tab into the groove on the shaft -make sure they are FT.
yeah I cant do them up until I have a wheel on there. I'll aim to get the other done tomorrow arvo, then drop them down and torque them up, bash them and whatnot... then begin the mission on the rear, which cannot be as bad... can it?

project.r.racing
09-10-2011, 03:05 PM
Also that is a drivers side rotor on the passenger side in that pic.

project.r.racing
09-10-2011, 03:13 PM
Better found now than when both had been put on.

Ben
09-10-2011, 03:28 PM
So clean and shiney! Did you paint the guard? seems very black, or just a ridiculous good clean?

maztech
09-10-2011, 03:32 PM
Holden use black caps over wheel nuts.

Clean_Cookie
09-10-2011, 03:44 PM
a good clean. took about 2-3 hours to clean them both. even polished the brake line clips which you cannot see. there is 0 oil, grease and grime anywhere near the brakes now. next attack will be on the sump, which the seals need to be replaced... the question is, where do I stop!!! Once the brakes are done, I need to get the bushes done, which I know, should have been done at the same time, I need a break and save some money for the panel repair. as long as I get the car registered near Christmas Id be happy. it just depends on what comes up before then.

project.r.racing
09-10-2011, 05:03 PM
aah crap. forgot to install the mud guard! thats why there are so many of those annoying clips.... btw where can you buy NEW ones for less than repco? its like $3-5 a packet which is a bit silly.i need a far few of those clips. so it you end up buying the packet. i'll buy some off you.

project.r.racing
09-10-2011, 07:59 PM
when i say some. i need about 15-20 to redo all the front wheel arch ones.

Clean_Cookie
17-10-2011, 08:01 PM
as per today thread...

tried out the plastic cutter on my soldering iron today, Im 100% sure it is NOT designed for this task but worked as well as I had hoped...forgot to take a photo of before, but it had a 10-15mm gap in the middle, cracked the whole way along...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0094.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0095.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0096.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0097.jpg



So, after bolting the plastic back on the bolts were grey, so with a sharpie I changed that.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0098.jpg

Much better

also did some under-engine cleaning, it still looks dirty in the photos I'll get it tomorrow!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0100.jpg

power steering was black and now its not. yay.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0101.jpg

Aircon compressor was also black, now its not either...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0104.jpg

cleaner sump:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0111.jpg

cleaned the gearbox too.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0103.jpg

looking OK for a job done by me I guess...


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0113.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0116.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0117.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0114.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0129.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0128.jpg





and now its going to tell me theres a limit of 20 pictures I bet. correct. 26. sigh

this camera is a bit hit and miss at night...

Clean_Cookie
17-10-2011, 08:04 PM
Still want to clean the rear, tomorrow!
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0130.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0131.jpg

notice the white patches in the previous post are now black :D

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0134.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0127.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0125.jpg

the correct way around

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0124.jpg

phildough
17-10-2011, 08:43 PM
OMFGWTF.
Obsessed.
Can I bring my car over to your place for you to clean if for me??

chewyryce
17-10-2011, 09:47 PM
WOW. maybe i should just pay you to work on my car since its so cheap :D. looking good so far Ryan

phildough
17-10-2011, 10:08 PM
Stupid apprentice wages.

mikey_something
17-10-2011, 10:13 PM
yes, at $15 an hour I will. did 6 hours of paid work today, got paid for 8, set off the fire alarm in the process which wasted an hour. so I did some more at home ;)

if theres no work on Ill take your car for the day and drop it off at Toowong clean and slightly less full ;)

Stupid apprentice wages.

and Woolworths Part-time wages.
*sigh*... doesn't help fuel these projects does it mate?
1 week till engine rebuild on my car. Then i might get all OCD with the minor details like you are :p

Clean_Cookie
17-10-2011, 10:17 PM
Ryan: Btw I have 100 clips coming to replace them. Finally found a stockist cheaper...

Clean_Cookie
20-10-2011, 07:22 PM
a teeny tiny bit more. im suprised I'm still happy to do 5 hours of work on this thing every day. doesnt look it hey... I'm probably the worlds SLOWEST DIY mechanic, but its nice not to have any deadlines (other than the looming end of the month everything must magically dissapear from the garage/driveway...)
so heres a bit more progress. had to cheat in some spots and use paint as I wore off the thin black coating, but its pretty clean now :D

Ill have the other side apart stripped and painted, then saturday morning will hold the final cleaning session and then I can bleed the brakes and take it for a test drive, unless its wet and will make all my hard work dissapear!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0147.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0152.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0165.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0153.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0155.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0160.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0162.jpg

Ben
20-10-2011, 10:13 PM
Far out, this is becoming ridiculously too clean!

Rhys
20-10-2011, 10:20 PM
And that's coming from a guy who polishes his car to make it even shinier than it already is =D

But seriously, it looks awesome.

Clean_Cookie
31-10-2011, 08:08 PM
Update for the last few days:

slowly working my way around the car polishing the paint which feels an awful lot like sandpaper into a glossy new car look. takes ages by hand but I cannot justify owning a motorised one!

installed clear side indicators:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0260-1.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0261-1.jpg

different plugs and tabs required two large ones taken off the original plug, nothing a bit of sandpaper couldnt solve!
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0262-1.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0265-1.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0275-1.jpg
stripped tint off the windows as it was purple and bubbling.
half done:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0277-1.jpg

will take more once finished. amazingly the glue came 99% off with the tint, so cleanup will take a few minutes :)the back screen was an entirely different story.
cleaned some more ;)

got a flat tyre -SORRY MARC! somewhere round the block it seems I've inherited marcs tyres and luck. oops.

Ben
31-10-2011, 09:18 PM
Got the same ones as me. Had the same problem, different plug. I melted the actual indicator to fit the stock indicator plug in. Worked well. I didnt even think of sand paper haha.

marcs_sp20
31-10-2011, 09:35 PM
I had the same problem with my side indicators & the same with the Laser, I ended up using the existing bulb holder & just replaced the bulb, but it actually looks like the prongs are in different spots altogether :confused:

All good about the tyre, reason I wasnt using them was cause of the lack of actual tread :p

project.r.racing
01-11-2011, 09:44 AM
yup the clear frosted ones for usdm has different connectors. i think the are actually from a Jaguar XJR which came with clear indicators straight from the factory. and the original asian manufacturer must just be selling of them also.

mine had the same backing for the actual oem indicator housing, but the blub holder had a different plug, so i just used the original oem '97 one.

but i brought the clear crystal type to match the tail lights also. might be different in that aspect.

Clean_Cookie
02-11-2011, 05:36 PM
Last weeks work bought these.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0289-1.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0285-1.jpg

Fitted for just under $600.
But! Wheel nuts are too big. Need 19mm ones... Maybe next weeks paycheck.

SLY 323
02-11-2011, 06:00 PM
Wow. You must have some time on your hands! :)

Your doing very well. I can't wait to see the end result.

derb
02-11-2011, 06:02 PM
You paid someone $600 for a fit and balance?!

Clean_Cookie
02-11-2011, 06:05 PM
haha tyres fitted and balanced. so total cost of the set (awaiting nuts) will be around $1300

SLY 323
02-11-2011, 06:25 PM
being an apprentice slows the must-be-done-proffessionally work down... :(

I know how you feel mate!

maztech
08-11-2011, 06:07 PM
What CVs have you used / what parts ?

maztech
08-11-2011, 07:34 PM
Are they standard manual v6 shafts?

project.r.racing
08-11-2011, 07:48 PM
F25M-R gearbox, so I'm guessing I4 driveshafts.

maztech
08-11-2011, 07:51 PM
Is it I4 shafts fit into V6 hubs

project.r.racing
08-11-2011, 07:53 PM
BG BA BJ shafts all have 26 spline in the hubs. So yes.

Clean_Cookie
08-11-2011, 09:59 PM
Btw nice work on the v6 conversion too! Haven't done much on this, waiting for the wheel bits to arrive. Hopefully next week I'll have the wheels on the car. Still have a few.more parts to install but i think I'll wait. I removed all traces of useless wiring yesterday, resoldering the starter motor was a pain. It'll all get removed to put an alarm in at a later date I'm sure. For now a wheel lock shall suffice, and a flat tyre! Ordered a few. More bits and pieces this week but waiting on my money tree. One day it'll grow for me.

On another note, how do I remove the rear spoiler, I want to change the wiper ARM and haven't figured it out, didn't look very hard...

maztech
09-11-2011, 05:45 AM
Rear spoiler not needed to come off to remove wiper , undo nut on arm then push wiper arm towards glass gently and pull up -- it will loosen off splines then remove. Use an open end spanner from rear of car under spoiler

TheMAN
09-11-2011, 03:49 PM
those fake dura-lite ray nuts like the ones above sell on ebay for $65AUD.

with these expensive wheels, is it worth nickel and diming on wheel nuts? I have the real deals and I can assure you they were worth every penny.... I got them direct from japan myself (like the wheels) and saved a lot over getting them locally

these wheel nuts are so light, it feels almost like plastic! but they look great and they really match up to the wheels very well :D

so yeah, the last thing I want is messing around with knackered wheel nuts trying to get the blood wheel off... I've seen plenty of split/cracked chinese rubbish wheel nuts here... not worth saving the money for them

Clean_Cookie
09-11-2011, 05:00 PM
After reading about alloy nuts, they stretch... I don't want to replace them every two years which was recommended... Guess what, autobahn sucks. Told them 20 times must be 19mm and i got 21... Why do I always think I'd be better at their job? Sigh. New ones ordered. At least the locking ones work...

phildough
09-11-2011, 05:14 PM
Autobarn/Supercheap are staffed by 16-20 year old kids who have no clue about cars.

maztech
09-11-2011, 05:59 PM
You want to clean another set of hubs Ryan

TheMAN
09-11-2011, 06:16 PM
After reading about alloy nuts, they stretch... I don't want to replace them every two years which was recommended... Guess what, autobahn sucks. Told them 20 times must be 19mm and i got 21... Why do I always think I'd be better at their job? Sigh. New ones ordered. At least the locking ones work...

I had these for 5 years now and they're fine
as long as you tighten and loosen by hand, they're fine
and you MUST use a torque wrench with these... you must be meticulous with them compared to conventional wheel nuts, but its worth it for the looks, quality, and reduced rotating mass :)


if you want quality steel wheel nuts, get the mazdaspeed kit like I suggested
they're available either from the states or japan (obviously)

Ben
09-11-2011, 06:19 PM
Autobarn/Supercheap are staffed by 16-20 year old kids who have no clue about cars.


Amen to that!

OT: btw, wheels look awesome Ryan!

TheMAN
09-11-2011, 06:51 PM
I don't think you'll find those ms wheel nuts 2nd hand easily... I never saw them on the yahoo auctions... they don't look anything special... pretty ordinary, except black and good quality... at least they're relatively cheap :)

Clean_Cookie
14-11-2011, 08:01 PM
So todays progress. I am happy to say that for the first time in its life this car has now got a.full.set of ms rims on it. Most probably only for a few days before I install more stuff inevitably but its a start right?

Pictures turned out pretty average and yes its still a.4wd but I'll have to lower your expectations before its' (that is totally grammatically incorrect)

Anyway, here's the dirty dented investment I have.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0346.jpg


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0344.jpg



Here's a pic of the qfm A1RM pad on the left an a horsepower cheapie on the right.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0340.jpg

And finally, the clearance on the shock body, yikes.


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0343.jpg


Just fits yay. May get some spacers after the wrc to improve the stance

maztech
14-11-2011, 08:42 PM
Heaps of room , have a look at the stock gaps on mine.
Stop by my car tomorrow and have a look

Clean_Cookie
14-11-2011, 08:48 PM
Looking good... too bad those wheels are the +48 offset... the "correct" ones would have been the +42, but given that the 17" MS-Touring wheels are so rare, you didn't have much of a choice

you might have been better off running 215/40-17 tyres instead too... the overall diameter of what you have seems a little big
they are 16", went for them over 17's mainly for the cost and difficulty to get tyres in te correct load ratings etc.

marcs_sp20
14-11-2011, 09:17 PM
You should get a couple mm more clearance once the car is properly wheel aligned.

Whats funny is that you have more clearance (from wheel to strut) then me :p

TheMAN
15-11-2011, 08:45 AM
they are 16", went for them over 17's mainly for the cost and difficulty to get tyres in te correct load ratings etc.

really? which offset are your wheels? I have the +45, I know the +50 existed too

maztech
15-11-2011, 08:50 AM
Show us a full build list and photos of your car TheMan !!!

Clean_Cookie
15-11-2011, 09:06 AM
16x7 made in Japan by rays for mazda. Whether or not they are actually mazdaspeed as.they came fitted to other cars remains to be argued too. They are 45 offset.

Rupewrecht
15-11-2011, 09:08 AM
16x7 made in Japan by rays for mazda. Whether or not they are actually mazdaspeed as.they came fitted to other cars remains to be argued too. They are 45 offset.

They are 100% Mazdaspeed. Other versions (Sesto etc as Ed said) are slightly different in the centre of the rim.

TheMAN
15-11-2011, 04:51 PM
they are the mazdaspeed wheels if the centre bores are exactly 67.1mm (if still there, there are stickers on the inside of the wheels that will say "mazdaspeed" instead of Versus or Vesta, along with production date and fitment size)... the Versus Sesto Quinta Competizione/Vesta Sesto wheels have larger centre bores (for "universal fit") and most of the ones I've seen were silver... the gold ones are probably more rare: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/921939/car/811614/4089687/parts.aspx

TheMAN
15-11-2011, 05:46 PM
according to my 95/96 mazdapeed catalogue, the "proper" wheel fitment size for the Lantis V6 is 17x7.0 +38 or +35 with 215/40-17 tyres
the non-V6 Lantis called for 16x7.0 +35 with 205/50-16 tyres

of course, the "proper" wheels for the Lantis were the MS-01, MS-02, and MS-01f wheels... but fitment specs are pretty universal nonetheless :)

mattylagana
15-11-2011, 10:18 PM
Just had a quick glance looks nice, and sxc wheels

Rupewrecht
16-11-2011, 05:01 PM
Thread cleaned, as requested by OP.

Less bitching, less egos please.

/admin.

Ben
16-11-2011, 05:35 PM
They look sexy as Ryan! Cant wait to see what this looks like when finished!

SLY 323
18-11-2011, 02:50 PM
They look sexy as Ryan! Cant wait to see what this looks like when finished!

x2 :)

Clean_Cookie
19-11-2011, 09:09 PM
Ok, so I decided that it was time to update this a bit. New brakes are on and car drives fine without scraping. Yay! Brakes need to be re bled as there's still tonnes of air in them unfortunately. The rear still needs a clean and will re install the brace I removed previously too. The passengers side cv also needs removing next too. Sigh. Once the brakes are on and the cv ain't leaking that will do me for now mechanically. Also during the week I will remove all the interior, and roof lining if possible, to facilitate the rust removal and spray painting. Once complete sound deadening will be sourced and installed, before the interior can be re instated. Then off to the road worthy, and qld transport inspection. Hopefully they like my new wheel :D

After that I'll tIe the car off the road again and have piece of mind its off the written off register, get the car painted, or give it a go myself! Then mod plates for the seats, new suspension and all the goodies from the hard top installed.

Sell the hardtop and use that money for an ems or turbo parts. Or both if i find someone really stupid with money Haha.

Here she is currently..

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0355.jpg

Old yucky carpet, might go in the hardtop, its even worse!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0354.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0373.jpg

Partially polished...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0374.jpg

Mad Mat
21-11-2011, 07:41 AM
mate she is looking good. :)

but u need some coilovers bad.. :( that is some serious 4X4 action u have there....

mattylagana
21-11-2011, 08:57 AM
hard top rims five stud? sell me them :)

Clean_Cookie
21-11-2011, 09:06 AM
Nope. 4 stud sorry.

NaughtyGT
21-11-2011, 10:14 AM
mate she is looking good. :)

but u need some coilovers bad.. :( that is some serious 4X4 action u have there....

was gonna beat you to it Mat but he mentioned he will be doing suspension soon. Hope it'll be lowered at least 30mm :eek:

Clean_Cookie
21-11-2011, 11:57 AM
Try 70!

NaughtyGT
21-11-2011, 12:51 PM
70? omg :eek: legal, surely no? Be cool though! I can't get away with much more than 30mm as the friggin wheels will be crammed in there as it is........

Mad Mat
21-11-2011, 02:36 PM
70? omg :eek: legal, surely no? Be cool though! I can't get away with much more than 30mm as the friggin wheels will be crammed in there as it is........

look at ryans car tim (deejaaryry).. it has dc coilover on her and its about 90mm lower than stock...

i could easy fit my fist in the gap between tx3's rims and wheel arch..

blodgertron
21-11-2011, 02:59 PM
look at ryans car tim (deejaaryry).. it has dc coilover on her and its about 90mm lower than stock...

i could easy fit my fist in the gap between tx3's rims and wheel arch..

Yea tx3's are shocking lol. Ive got superlows and its still miles off the ground haha.

Looking good though. finish the polishing and get it low and it will be awesome

DavoAust
21-11-2011, 03:16 PM
look at ryans car tim (deejaaryry).. it has dc coilover on her and its about 90mm lower than stock...

i could easy fit my fist in the gap between tx3's rims and wheel arch..

As I demonstrated the other night :-) 70mm might be a bit too much for daily driver duties though, you're going coils to get that?

Clean_Cookie
21-11-2011, 03:36 PM
70? omg :eek: legal, surely no? Be cool though! I can't get away with much more than 30mm as the friggin wheels will be crammed in there as it is........
I'll go as low as sensible/ legally possible :)

umming an ahhing about paint choices, one thing is clear and that is that the interior will be resprayed properly over my holidays and get it 100% rust free, then save my pennies and get some new colour on her.

TheMAN
21-11-2011, 07:59 PM
when you did your V6 brake swap, did you also get the V6 rear lateral link and trailing link? They're different but I don't know if the lateral link is longer or shorter... could also explain something about the close wheel fitment ;)

Clean_Cookie
21-11-2011, 08:07 PM
nope, the trailing arms are the same length afaik, just stronger, dan did the swap a few months ago, might do it if i can get some for free/cheap. the lateral links not sure on that one!

BUT, the hubs are the virtually the same and use the same calipers so I doubt they play a part at all. they dont rub or anything, coilovers will give me more clearance too - not that I really need it, only reason spacers would be used would be just for looks.

TheMAN
21-11-2011, 08:21 PM
well the spindles are actually the same between the V6 and 4 cylinder, but the hubs are what's different :)

the V6 trailing arm also has a "U" bend in the middle to clear the wheels it seems

Clean_Cookie
21-11-2011, 08:35 PM
It goes parallel to the wheel?

Cosmo Dude
21-11-2011, 08:36 PM
If there is a difference between I4 and V6 lateral links it would be the durometer of the ruber bushings. As for the shape of the trailing arm it's been covered...

maztech
21-11-2011, 08:49 PM
I got v6 shocks, knuckles and trailing arms on my car and I got about the same clearance from the wheel to the shock. Don't think the lateral arms are any different maybe v6 ones are solid. As I have said before there is a ship load of clearance on your car Ryan from the wheel to the shock.

project.r.racing
21-11-2011, 09:26 PM
The arms and links have norhing to do with the small clearence. My 7.5 wide rims fit all the I4 crap. Once rhat car is lowered and camber bolts at used to straighten the wheel, then you gain 2mm per 1 degrees.

Rupewrecht
21-11-2011, 09:57 PM
when you did your V6 brake swap, did you also get the V6 rear lateral link and trailing link? They're different but I don't know if the lateral link is longer or shorter... could also explain something about the close wheel fitment ;)

Same length between I4 and V6, Hatch and Hardtop according to the parts catalogue.

the V6 trailing arm also has a "U" bend in the middle to clear the wheels it seems

Theoretically yes but you'd hit shock body before hitting trailing arm

Don't think the lateral arms are any different maybe v6 ones are solid.

I4 are C section, V6 are hollow and circular

maztech
21-11-2011, 10:02 PM
I was saying the lateral arms not the trailing arms - I know the differences in the trailing arms that's why I got them off the donar car .

Clean_Cookie
22-11-2011, 06:51 AM
Here's a clean picture.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0376.jpg

project.r.racing
22-11-2011, 08:34 AM
Nice mate. The wheels I have never been a fan of, but for some reason they seem to work well on the car. I see black wheel nuts. Still unsure about the wiper arms though. For some reason, my attention is being drawn towards them. Are they a different shade of white?

TheMAN
22-11-2011, 08:37 AM
Same length between I4 and V6, Hatch and Hardtop according to the parts catalogue.



Theoretically yes but you'd hit shock body before hitting trailing arm



I4 are C section, V6 are hollow and circular

the pre-Ford I4 trailing arms are also tubular... I remember seeing them here, of course we never got the Lantis/Astina/323F but the suspension parts are mostly the same :(

TheMAN
22-11-2011, 08:38 AM
Nice mate. The wheels I have never been a fan of, but for some reason they seem to work well on the car. I see black wheel nuts. Still unsure about the wiper arms though. For some reason, my attention is being drawn towards them. Are they a different shade of white?

yeah, I don't really like the white wiper arms... they look goofy since the wiper blades are black... it makes the wiper blades seem to disappear

Rupewrecht
22-11-2011, 08:43 AM
I was saying the lateral arms not the trailing arms - I know the differences in the trailing arms that's why I got them off the donar car .

Whoops, so you did, my bad!

Clean_Cookie
22-11-2011, 09:16 AM
The wipers are virtually the same colour but are a matte finish, the light must have been shining off the different angle and highlights them. I'm not 100% but looks good enough to keep them. Wary of painting the blades due to reflections

Clean_Cookie
23-11-2011, 04:24 PM
Bought.another litre of brake fluid to re bleed the brakes.

Hopefully i can do that over the weekend.

Rupewrecht
23-11-2011, 05:59 PM
Bought.another litre of brake fluid to re bleed the brakes.

Hopefully i can do that over the weekend.

Remembering to do the clutch as well?

Clean_Cookie
23-11-2011, 06:16 PM
Yeah but it doesn't have much if any air pockets, the brake pedal is squishy as!

maztech
23-11-2011, 07:39 PM
Was Gunna come over and do em for ya , just tell me when the wheels are off and you got the compressor

Clean_Cookie
23-11-2011, 08:15 PM
Does the weekend suit, could I pick it up tomorrow and return it on Sat?

Clean_Cookie
26-11-2011, 06:45 PM
Tis half cleaned. Also began cleaning the new seats. Neither are satisfactory yet :(

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0386.jpg

Rhys
27-11-2011, 10:56 AM
What are you using to clean the seats..?

Clean_Cookie
27-11-2011, 11:16 AM
What are you using to clean the seats..?
It sucks. ;)

Clean_Cookie
06-12-2011, 09:18 PM
Sourced a few more accessories today. Parents are going to straddie for 2 weeks on Saturday so it'll be all hands on deck into the garage for a strip and respray all going well... Then new carpet, decided sound installation will be months away yet. I just want this driving ASAP! Not long to go. In two weeks time hopefully wrc... Maybe. Starting to sound like demanious...

Clean_Cookie
07-12-2011, 06:45 PM
Picked up a JDM parcel tray today, thanks Phil! Pictures will be included after the above work is done. Cupholders also on their way :D

Clean_Cookie
28-12-2011, 05:12 PM
plodding along slowly mainly held up with funds. and cannot really do anything until Ive got money for the rego, insurance, inspection etc. although i bought a 20ltr fuel container and put 20 litres of BP ultimate and it turned the rough idle into a smooth as engine which revs way more freely than mine - completely stock!

have extractors waiting to go in, and will buy the MS kit to bolt on. (one day!) the other thing ive got from O/S are these!


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0517.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0518.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0515.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0516.jpg

so far parts come from:
Japan
New Zealand
Poland
USA
Germany
China and Australia.

now I just need something from Africa and Antartica... LOL.

derb
28-12-2011, 05:30 PM
Get some trillion dollar bills from Zimbabwe and stickerbomb something with them.

Then get some penguin skin shift and handbrake boots.

:D

Clean_Cookie
28-12-2011, 05:49 PM
haha the bank notes idea isnt bad although I like penguins too much to kill them :(

TheMAN
29-12-2011, 12:02 AM
how about a million Vietnamese Dongs? :p

Clean_Cookie
13-01-2012, 06:17 PM
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0559.jpg

Elly working on my seats.

Wow. Huge photo LOL.

phildough
13-01-2012, 06:22 PM
Wow dude, you have your GF well trained. And take HUGE res pictures and upload them.
Even my 18 megapixel Canon 600D shots dont appear that large!!!

Clean_Cookie
13-01-2012, 06:43 PM
Blame my phone.

Clean_Cookie
11-02-2012, 05:31 PM
hey guys. bought a computer thanks to Phil @ Eds PC's!


Eee PC, 1.65ghz, 4g ddrIII ram, 120gig corsair HDD, HDMI out, USB 3,BT etc.

also bought an in-car voltage regulator for use with the above and an empty USB 3 caddy for the 500gig drive which was in here originally. This will power my various devices and screen for my entertainment :)

Thanks phil for your help and putting up with me for a few hours today!

The end goal is:

2 amps, front and rear + Sub (or 3 if it makes tuning easier via a USB soundcard (looking at the creative offering, mounting the physical dial in the dash for volume control, as well as steering wheel controls for BT and music.

In another port I will run a USB to serial adaptor for ECU tuning, with in-car adjustment woohoo......one day!
In another dock somewhere I will sit my phone, which will be tethered to the PC to provide internet access and a GPS reciever for navigation.
IN another port the 500gb drive will provide unlimited music etc.
In another port a HDTV tuner will give me DAB+ radio and FM stations, until internet becomes cheaper and practical to stream when I'd like.
A bluetooth wireless keyboard will give me the ability to type etc faster and easier.
A camera security system with live streaming to help with "not at fault accidents" as it took months to do that last time grr.. this will be saved onto the 500gb also. (front and rear)

A box with a USB 3 hub will house all of the above with a neat connection to the front of the car.

Its going to be a slow and painful process until I have the software up to a useable state, with so many different hardware options it will be a challenge for the little PC but we shall see!

mikey_something
11-02-2012, 10:49 PM
Price of that setup? I woulda gone an SSD for incar entertainment for speed, but money is not always a luxury, especially when it comes to SSDs lol.

Clean_Cookie
12-02-2012, 12:17 AM
Oh oops, yeah ssd, apparently the fastest on the market. It's limited by the motherboard though. Pricing, well the laptop itself had a retail of $600... Ask Phil what he sold it for ;)

70NYD
12-02-2012, 09:38 AM
Damn man that's some awesome ideas you have going there :)
Is that a 10.5"
Does it run windows?
Just asking for a friend of mine, he needs something small like that for work lol

phildough
12-02-2012, 10:21 AM
Its a 12" Asus EEE PC 1215B and comes with windows 7 Home Premium and to my surprise 4gb of RAM.
It also has a Raedon 6320 Graphics card with HDMI and VGA out so it will be much better than a standard EEE PC as it has the 12" screen with a more usable 1366X768 res screen which a lot better than the 1024 x 600 on most netbooks.
I upgraded it making it more car friendly installing a 120gb Corsair GT SSD for him(over kill for a netbook!!!)
BTW Ryan I have the 7" touch screen for you to play with.
When the windows 8 beta comes out at the end of the month we will install that for you to play with on it.
Also when you get the sound card we can test it on my car stereo as I already have 5 amped channels to make sure it works as you want.

Clean_Cookie
12-02-2012, 10:28 AM
FYI Phil, I've managed to bypass all welcome screens etc and a restart from having a million things running takes 28 seconds to open chrome and logging on here. :)

Start up is about 20 seconds, 10 of which cannot be helped with BIOS etc

phildough
12-02-2012, 10:51 AM
LOL thats faster than a lot of peoples desktops.

Rhys
12-02-2012, 12:28 PM
man, this car is gonna be c-razy

Clean_Cookie
18-02-2012, 07:19 PM
think Ive decided what to do about the audio from PC to amps etc..

http://www.ultrahighendreview.com/high-resolution-technologies-musicstreamer-ii/

theres a lower spec'ed one for sale on ebay secondhand for $160 which makes more sense to me (can it really be twice as good?), anyway that outputs through a 3.5mm, which I'd split into left/right x2, going to front/rear amps, then using the gain on the seperate amps to adjust the fading....

while its not a perfect solution this would provide easy clean audio. phil that creative card has about a 3/10 rating, it has caused a few issues with centrafuse/ride runner too :(

phildough
18-02-2012, 07:56 PM
OK so its basically a good DAC so it should be a lot better than the creative.
I only suggested it due to price.
However I know of a much better solution to your problem and when I can find the model I will link it up for you.

Clean_Cookie
18-02-2012, 10:32 PM
Like this?

http://www.extremeaudio.de/gb/zubehoer/soundprozessor-equalizer-audio-processor/helix-p-dsp-digital-sound-processor.html

Clean_Cookie
05-03-2012, 08:51 PM
ok guys. a little update...its been too long since ive done any real work on the car!
Ive bought many things for it though!

for the entertainment side of things the PC is now FINALLY working properly (got phil to re-thermal paste the APU - which BTW is TINY. about the size of one's small fingernail.

A HRT Music streamer 2 is now in my posession, as well as a DAB+/DV-T tuner USB. waiting until the last possible moment until I buy a screen. nothing is jumping out at me as a clear winner. The capacitive screens are $600+ and sunlight readable resistive ones are about as much.

Loads to go on the programming side of things.
Bought some Vifa 6.5" splits for the front, still nothing for the rear or any amps to power them. Have a wiring block and kit ready to install though. cut up a shielded twisted pair RCA lead I got for free from the wreckers ages ago and made a rca to 2xrcas adaptor.



on the mechanical side of things the brakes have been slowly getting better, car runs awesome and steering is spot-on. have to chase up some 25mm bolt on spacers for the rear to complete the flush look.

BC coilovers from Ryan are being slowly cleaned. heres a progress photo. glad my sister moved out too!!!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0663.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0661.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0664.jpg
its like having brand new gear when I can't afford it. maybe thats why I waste my afternoons doing this stuff!

polished the rear strut bar too, looks loads better, although I will sand it down and make it smooth again...just becuase I can!


Paint wise, I have to wait until we get the shipment of gear from Dan before booking it in but White is the colour of choice (i think?). sexier and higher re-sale value if it ever comes to that! Guards will be rolled before painting to ensure any crazy ideas in the future in the low/wide dept. are simpler. hoping to get some info tomorrow about everything and save some $$ by stripping the entire thing and then sneaking it to rocklea.

list of parts waiting for installation:

Coilovers
strut braces
Lower LCA brace
bushings
PC
sound deadening
Seats
wind deflectors
cup holder
parcel tray
speakers
genuine MS bodykit
MS exhaust
new carpet
MS handbrake
MS gearknob + shift badge
Short shifter
Gear boot
MS pedals

and theres always a gearbox in the shed...waiting...for a quaife.

thats all folks!

DavoAust
05-03-2012, 09:22 PM
hoping to get some info tomorrow about everything and save some $$ by stripping the entire thing and then sneaking it to rocklea.


Dude, don't risk driving it on the road and getting picked up for it, heaps of cops around rocklea. Plus you won't be able to strip the doors off etc. Rustle up a car trailer (mat?) and completely strip it except for what you need to get it rolling. Much better idea :)

Otherwise, looking good. Those coilovers came up nicely

Clean_Cookie
05-03-2012, 10:01 PM
Yeah i will look into temp regoes more but if I can get a safety cert from down the road I think I'm allowed to drive from there to paint place then from there to the dot inspection centre. Then from there to a dot office to get rego, then to just car for another inspection. I'll be a happy man if everything passes first time. Then I'll host a mod day where I can unleash the jdm madness. Does anyone know wether its true that you can get temp ctp and rego transferred into proper rego once cleared? It's $1 a day for ctp after the $40 odd first day and same with rego. Could I then buy a years worth and just transfer it over once it gets sorted. Want to avoid any trailers. I almost died driving it home!

project.r.racing
06-03-2012, 08:17 AM
you can get temp rego for up to 7 calender days.

it is not transferrable to full rego.

a roadworthy cert does not allow you to drive it on the street.

you will need to fix the rear damage first to get a pass on the roadworthy cert.

Clean_Cookie
06-03-2012, 08:29 AM
The mechanic said he will pass it with damage. I understand I need wrc before temp rego.

project.r.racing
06-03-2012, 08:45 AM
temp rego does not require rwc. the car just needs to be safe and drivable.

if he passes it with damage. if you turn up at the dot office at a busy time, they may just organise your rego and have you out of there asap.

personally, if it was me i'd:-
1. get temp rego 1 day
2. drive to panel shop (do what they have to do, then)
3. get temp rego 1 day
4. drive from panel shop to mechanic (do rwc)
5. drive to dot office (do what they have to do, then)
6. drive home with new plates and sense of near jdm madness is about to begin

Clean_Cookie
06-03-2012, 08:53 AM
Yeah ok, sounds like the safest idea.

Clean_Cookie
06-03-2012, 10:26 PM
Went to pj's truck painting workshop. Was greeted by a friendly boss and workers Downing coronas. Lead time 3-4 weeks. Bummer. Anyway I liked what I saw, and he will give me trade plates to borrow for the trips back and forth! He also has a workshop too which does safety certs which would be a bonus too. One less trip! So I'll just keep saving and wait three weeks I guess. Running out of time before my birthday.

Orion
06-03-2012, 11:04 PM
Went to pj's truck painting workshop. Was greeted by a friendly boss and workers Downing coronas. Lead time 3-4 weeks. Bummer. Anyway I liked what I saw, and he will give me trade plates to borrow for the trips back and forth! He also has a workshop too which does safety certs which would be a bonus too. One less trip! So I'll just keep saving and wait three weeks I guess. Running out of time before my birthday.

Haha, told you they were laid back :p

Sucks to hear about the long lead time :( - I will have to wait to put my grill in then.

Clean_Cookie
07-03-2012, 05:47 AM
Yeah. Felt jealous after wearing over the top safety gear all day where you'd be killed if beer was brought onto site!

Their work looks pretty good. Honestly have no idea how they can quote on a job like mine though. Any idea what labour is charged at per hour?

Orion
07-03-2012, 07:28 AM
Yeah. Felt jealous after wearing over the top safety gear all day where you'd be killed if beer was brought onto site!

Their work looks pretty good. Honestly have no idea how they can quote on a job like mine though. Any idea what labour is charged at per hour?

No idea on the charge rate per hour :confused: but it was $300 for my front lip and front bar.

Clean_Cookie
08-03-2012, 11:21 AM
so dan has killed my bank account again and I'm off sick. oh well! another few bits coming to help complete the car :)

Clean_Cookie
08-03-2012, 03:50 PM
so i went to WOW in woollengabba. stupid busy. for the "bargains" i saw there were way too many people from all over town. seriously. 5% off computers and tv's, 20%off DVD's. not really something to write home about. anyway i DID buy something. I bought a pioneer KAC-9405 4 channel amp for $207. (price on the box was 400.) even then it was only 20% off. personally I wouldnt bother unless you actually want to buy something. too many people to "browse"! anyway it looks like this:

http://au.kenwood.com/Images/Cache/1627_800_557.jpg

• 2ohms Load Capability
• Speaker Level Input
• Signal Sensing Turn-On
• Cooling Fan
• Aluminum Die Cast Heat Sink
• Power MOS-FET Switching Power Supply
• Triangle Indicator & Blue Illumination
• Built-in Variable Low-pass Filter 50-200Hz (-12dB/oct)
• Built-in Variable High-pass Filter 50-200Hz (-12dB/oct)
• Bass Boost f=40Hz Gain 0 - 18dB (only Bch)
• Size: W 280.0mm x H 59.0mm x D 238.0mm

couldnt justify spending any more than that on an amp. my $50 one off ebay has served me very well! all I need now is a screen for some noise. fader function will be a bit rough but i can ajust the sensitivity of the input signal which will give me some control but not too concerned at the moment. not sure how the 12v sensing will go, maybe from the IGN barrel itself...

Ben
08-03-2012, 04:40 PM
I got that one from cash converters for $100. Was a epic find and it's a bloody good amp. Money well spent even for $200!

Clean_Cookie
08-03-2012, 04:58 PM
good to know ben. are you running in 4 channel or mono mode?

Ben
08-03-2012, 05:03 PM
Im running 4 channel. Using it to power my speakers. Youll definatly notice the difference.. I Have a separate mono amp for my sub.

Clean_Cookie
08-03-2012, 05:07 PM
it will sit in the box for a few more months. I still need a mono block and screen first but only after it's drivable!

Clean_Cookie
10-03-2012, 05:43 PM
just so I don't lose it:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holux-M-1000C-Bluetooth-GPS-Receiver-Data-Logger-66CH-/150621715386?pt=GPS_Devices&hash=item2311c0fbba#ht_2492wt_1037

looking up ways of saving USB ports. bluetooth with 5v connections seem the way to go. quite cheap too. question is how hard will intergration be.

mikey_something
10-03-2012, 08:55 PM
Can't remember if you're an iPhone man
But this perhaps is an option.
http://off-the-clock.timothy-nicole-marks.com/computers-and-electronics/iphone-gps-to-pc

I've not tried it I'm just linking.

Clean_Cookie
11-03-2012, 12:20 AM
Yeah I've got an android which does the same thing only free, but trying to avoid that and have something more permanent which doesn't root my battery constantly. I've got an older phone without a good screen which I may end up using. Really just want everything to be solid and reliable mainly. Still no idea about map and navigation software I should use...

Clean_Cookie
19-03-2012, 01:33 PM
Keeps deleting my comments... Anyway here's my test bench for the amp. Loads of adjustment for my fader arrangement and two separate low/high pass and other stuff :)

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0042.jpg

And an update on those dirty coilovers!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0045.jpg

Clean_Cookie
29-03-2012, 06:25 PM
There seems to be a problem! How do you easily install these guys!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0690.jpg

With wheels off the ground looked like this:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0691.jpg

Front only done:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0693.jpg

And a few random shots. Too low for me!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0694.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0695.jpg

Figured if it doesn't pass I would do the same amount of work anyway.

Clean_Cookie
29-03-2012, 08:37 PM
Also, they are tonnes softer than my current setup in the hardtop. Pleasantly suprised. Mind you I set it on softest, and have to install the rears tomorrow!

mikey_something
30-03-2012, 12:01 AM
remember your height once you've got the MS lip and skirts on!
look out potholes/speedbumps
:( put a nice chip in my freshly painted lip the other day on a speedbump in a carpark

was a home paint job so i'll just go again

Mad Mat
30-03-2012, 12:30 AM
Lol man she is presenting man get the rears on ;)

Clean_Cookie
30-03-2012, 05:51 AM
Mike, I need to go probably 30mm higher. And mat why not come and help ;)

project.r.racing
30-03-2012, 08:49 AM
i have tyres with a bigger rolling diameter, so if you didn't adjust them at all, you be sitting closer to the ground.

DavoAust
30-03-2012, 02:02 PM
Mike, I need to go probably 30mm higher. And mat why not come and help ;)

He's in the UK :p

Mad Mat
31-03-2012, 02:45 AM
He's in the UK :p

that is tru.. i am in the UK, from mat in the UK..

Clean_Cookie
04-04-2012, 03:52 PM
Well well well. QT is lame with a 4:30 close time... so at 9am tomorrow I will be driving in my new ride finally. "LET ME MODS BEGIN" (said in the robotwars voice)... next stop the paint shop and then the engineer (looks nicely at chewy) :D

stoked. comprehensive insurance is like 750 a year with a $400 excess through justcars. nice! (agreed value $5300)

oh finished my speed controller too... which works with a bit of a hum from the switching mosfets. oh well. it controls this:

http://www.paydirtmedia.com/vision/ledlightbar/ledlightbar_lg.jpg

marcs_sp20
04-04-2012, 04:17 PM
So which one is getting registered? :confused:

TheMAN
04-04-2012, 04:40 PM
can that pic be any bigger? :p

Clean_Cookie
04-04-2012, 05:50 PM
The v6 auto marc. Sorry. Will restart and delete this one soon.

Clean_Cookie
04-04-2012, 07:16 PM
heres stage one of the controller. made it for camping tomorrow, running off some 18ah 22v lithium battery packs I built. inbuilt voltage protection (adjustable), the knob is to adjust the brightness of the light which plugs into the banana plugs. neat hey. stupid bright too :D
on 15v...
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0726.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii18/esavageforme/Astina/IMAG0730.jpg

Stage 2 will involve mounting it in my bumper, wiring it up to the foglights and wiring the pot to a factory switch used for dimming the interior dash lights :)

Clean_Cookie
05-04-2012, 05:28 PM
Hey guys. I made it to toowoomba, but there's something seriously wrong with something between the gearbox and the road. The car was fine with standard suspension and tyres. The tyres and rims were fine on my other car, so that leaves the suspension? It's as if the tyres aren't quite round. And the faster you go, the bumpier it is. It's terrible! Any suggestions?

derb
05-04-2012, 06:01 PM
Crappy roads? :p Doesn't make much sense if the parts were working fine when you put them on. Unless doing that has transferred the breaking points to older, stock components?

phildough
05-04-2012, 07:25 PM
Take the rims off and reseat them.
Happened to me once, a rim didn't sit squarely.

TheMAN
05-04-2012, 07:31 PM
wouldn't happen so easily with hub centring rings lol
the stock wheels are hub centric for a reason!

Clean_Cookie
05-04-2012, 08:02 PM
Ok, I will reset the wheels before I leave. Thanks, hope this helps

marcs_sp20
05-04-2012, 08:39 PM
The Warrego Highway is the worst highway ever, so no doubt the ride up there (to Easterfest I would imagine? ;)) would have been absolutely crapola!

Hopefully there isnt any big downfalls like last years events :o

70NYD
05-04-2012, 09:22 PM
Is this the 1st time on coilovers? They are always stiff ;) can feel most bumps
But if your rims aren't centered on the hub spigot you will have issues. Hubcentric bolts don't exist, not in the sense people put rims on the car. Unless you wind all of the bolts at the same time (which isn't possible without a special tool) they can off center the hub mount if it's not a proper fit and cock.
Ideal fiitment is when the rim is matched to the hub, next best is having a steel/alloy spigot adaptor (not plastic) specially machined with a proper fit to hun and inside of the rim ;)

JDM323
06-04-2012, 05:38 AM
+1 hub centric rings ftw.