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View Full Version : wheel 215/45/17 (38 offset)


xerox9
04-01-2012, 09:25 PM
hi guys just got 17*8 inch rims with 38 offset was wondering if they will fit 1995 astina hatch, tried two of them and they were ok...but didnt drive cuse fount the other two was 4-114 bolt setting so am gonna get them drilled so am wondering will this affect anything and yeah planning to run 215/45 on them any suggestions ???? cheers and happy new year.

Clean_Cookie
04-01-2012, 09:28 PM
That size is illegal in QLD, too big. Not sure in your state. 195/45/17 may be ok, but the correct size is 215/40/17.

xerox9
04-01-2012, 09:38 PM
That size is illegal in QLD, too big. Not sure in your state. 195/45/17 may be ok, but the correct size is 215/40/17.
yeah moved from sunny Qland to adelaide now ..don't know the legal limit here thou and yeah ur car looks really cool mate

Clean_Cookie
04-01-2012, 09:44 PM
That made no sense lol.

project.r.racing
04-01-2012, 10:18 PM
drilling rims is very expensive, if it can be done at all. most rims cannot be drilled. suggest buying rims that have the correct pcd.

rodhog
04-01-2012, 11:31 PM
Drilling most aftermarket rims is a NO NO mainly because most cast rims are just too dam poorly desgined to handle drilling. A few so called well known shops for wheels in Sydney have done it. I know of many cases where they have done so because said owner wants said Rims on his hyundai and the fools dont' realise they are not drilled correclty they were done by hand on a floor with hand drill. don't laugh seen it.

One shop did it they owner said no problem it's for show yeah -saw the car with busted rim after it hit the gutter. the redrilling the force mean on rear drive 200Sx it cracked. So much for the 20's bro.

on 17X7 - 215-45R17 is perfect middle spot on a 17X8 depends on the profile but 225 to 235/ 40 or even 35 R17 will do less stretch. but if it's to clear the inners. stock BA is 45mm offset. with 6 J if remember right on v6 Ba.

I know you can go down to Maz6 50 offset with full size tyre. but not Sp23 53.5mm needs 3mm spacers if not 5mm spacers. but all are 7J rims

on a 38 might get away with it but you dont' have much outer gaurd clearance so a streetched 225/40 on r17 would be needed. plus possbile roll depending on your lowering and camber settings

Rupewrecht
05-01-2012, 10:21 AM
I run 17x8 +38 on a Hardtop, but with coilovers and plenty of camber. It's doable, but you'll probably have to run a little stretch on the tyres so they're not rubbing on the standard spring mount and rear outer guards

xerox9
05-01-2012, 05:42 PM
@Rupewrecht mate my car seems to be very low and i had it checked out. ist got king springs on them had 17*7 fitted on the back they were ok with about 30-40 mm space dont know about the 17*8 and yeah these rims are technocast and the mounting bore is bigger would that affect anything??? am really new into tuning and this is my first car that am trying to do..
am worried about the wheels touching so can anyone pls reccomend any place in adelaide where i can have these checked out

xerox9
05-01-2012, 06:09 PM
oh btw what do u mean strech on tires am planning to get 215/45 front and back and yeah still waiting to see if i can drill them or get another set of rims

Rupewrecht
05-01-2012, 06:36 PM
I mean clearance from the top corner of the tyre to the spring rest on your shock - that'll be the close area (as well as the body of the shock).

You'll need hub rings to locate the rims on the hub properly if the centre bore is bigger, otherwise you'll have vibrations all the time. Any wheel place will be able to supply them.

Stretch means a smaller tyres on a larger rim, stretching the sidewalls of the tyre to fit. But a 215 should be ok - depending on the brand, as some tyres are 'squarer' than others.

BTW, i'd really recommend against redrilling wheels.

Clean_Cookie
05-01-2012, 06:46 PM
sounds like a poor rim choice, with alot of money and effort to make it work? can you choose something similar in a more useable fitment? just my $0.02

rodhog
06-01-2012, 01:02 AM
You'll need hub rings to locate the rims on the hub properly if the centre bore is bigger, otherwise you'll have vibrations all the time. Any wheel place will be able to supply them.

Stretch means a smaller tyres on a larger rim, stretching the sidewalls of the tyre to fit. But a 215 should be ok - depending on the brand, as some tyres are 'squarer' than others.

BTW, i'd really recommend against redrilling wheels.

Centric rings or HUB rings are very very handy and important. Other wise the rim is being centered by the nuts and not ALL rims have or people use the right nuts with self centering cones. The Rim hub should be mounted directly.

As RUpe said tyre should have them. varys from car to car and wheel to wheel and then car to wheel. I've used both plastic and custom made alloy ones. both are perfectly fine. but a must.

All tyres have a plus and minus width of how wide a rim will be or should be.
that the tyre is put onto it.

Streetching a tyre is 90% common in the tuning world. For the main reasons of Looks - Cost and fitting. You never see it on a factory car or race car. Both ways deminish handling. .


tc3_racer_001 you are right

As for fitting wide tyres alot of draw back when you or if you go over board. even when you remove cost of the wider tyre.


anyway on your subject

going stock for stock and as I'm bored with a totall stuffed leg and foot

I worked out over stock 6 inch wide rim a a 8 inch rim will be with stock 45mm off set V 38mm offset

you will loose 18mm and stick out a further 32-33mm approx.


V 7inch with stock 45mm offset

Now it's only 6mm further in with the 8 inch over the 7inch and 20 odd out.

But I figured I'd add in the one I know when I had my BA full size sliglhty oversized tyre specs

you are going to need minimal 5mm on back spacers gives you theory of a
1mm clearance so really to run them rims with out rubber on the inner strut on rear you need 6mm or 8mm spacers. But do note thats with out taking into account the streetched and correct size tyre. stock small size tyre should clear in theory the inner strut. but till you try for sure you won't know. the only other bit is full lock inner front gaurds

xerox9
07-01-2012, 05:09 PM
thanks guys... for all the related information basing my myself on what was just..advised i decided to go against it that's drilling the rims but yeah what u guys think of wheel adapter kits heard many pro's and con's so what are your views and yeah
1) can any one advise me on suspension modification that aint gonna cost be heaps..already the car sits lowered on king spring thus the handling is good enough for the motor but what else can be done
2) am running a k&n pod filter on the front... the engine was taken out redone and all cleaned by a very reliable mech in Queensland lastyear.. but he forgot the heat shield on the outtake manifold area and since i got my front end repainted (expensive job) the heat cover from the bonnet is gone this the engine bay is running hot any suggestion to cool down my induction that is cost effective
3) the catalytic converter seems to be making weird noises in 1 and 2 gear...mmmhhh what can that be..

Cosmo Dude
07-01-2012, 07:44 PM
If you're running king springs I'd recomend a set of dampers to suit, KYB give good bang for buck. Also a rear swaybar, unfortunatly you're limited to whiteline here (my prejudice) and a front strut brace.

project.r.racing
07-01-2012, 07:46 PM
wheel adaptor kits decrease the wheel's offsets by 15mm minimum. smallest width adaptor i have seen. with your low offset already, this is out of the question.

again suggest buying wheels with correct pcd.

xerox9
11-01-2012, 06:11 PM
Thanks heap guys now will move on to suspension ESP strut brace but what goes in the rear had a look it's hard to fit a rear strut brace so any other options