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derb
12-02-2012, 04:03 PM
Chassis:
1993 Mazda BG 323 Astina Hatch SOHC

[b]Engine:
Complete JDM Familia GT-X Transplant [Engine, Loom & ECU]
1839cc DOHC Fuel Injected Turbo
VF10 hybrid turbo
Turbotech Boost Controller @ 16psi
Turbosmart 20mm Kompact Bypass Valve
Mazda B-code VAF [tuned]
Walbro GSS431 Fuel Pump
M-Tuned Dual Feed Fuel Rail
Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator with DRiFT Fuel Pressure Gauge
2.5" OEM Dump Pipe to 2.5" Cat, 2.25" Press Bent Exhaust, One Muffler
3A Racing Pod Filter
Cold Air Intake
Bosch HEC715 High Energy Coil
9mm Queensland Ignition Leads
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
40mm Aluminium Radiator
Oil Catch Can
'Wrinkle Red' Cam Cover
JDM MazdaSpeed Oil Cap
JDM Pollution Canister

Driveline:
Rebuilt 5 Speed G-Series Gearbox [G-series Casings, G25M-R and Familia 4WD Gears]
Custom 3-piece Double Cone Synchros on 1st, 2nd & 3rd
PAR Straight Cut 3rd Gear
Familia GTR 5th Gear [0.71]
mFactory Helical LSD
Familia GTX flywheel
NPC Custom 5-puck Ceramic/Metallic Sprung Centre Clutch
eBay Short Shifter
Skunk2 Shift Knob
Solid Crossmember Bushes

Handling/Braking:
BC Racing 'BR' Coilovers [6kg Front, 4kg Rear]
Whiteline Strut Braces [Front & Rear]
Whiteline 24mm Front Swaybar
Whiteline 22mm Rear Swaybar
35mm Double Offset Urethane Front LCA Bushes
Urethane Front & Rear Swaybar Link Bushes
DOHC Brake Rotors/Callipers/Hubs [Front & Rear]
Slotted Brake Rotors [Front & Rear]
Braided Brake Lines [Front]
QFM A1RM Brake Pads [Front]
QFM HPX Brake Pads [Rear]

Fluids:
Engine: Penrite SIN 10w70
Gearbox: Redline ShockProof Lightweight
Brakes/Clutch: Nulon SuperDOT4
Cooling: Tectaloy 90+

Wheels/Tyres:
JDM MazdaSpeed MS-03 15"x7" Rims
Kumho KU-36 Tyres [Front & Rear]

Exterior:
JDM Familia Front Grill Badge
JDM Rear Centre Garnish
JDM Tail/Brake Lights
JDM 'GT-X' Badging [Rear]
JDM MazdaSpeed Badging [Rear]
JDM 'DOHC Turbo' Badging [Sides]
Darkest Legal Tint
Complete LED Bulb Replacement
'Race Spec' Tow Hook

Interior:
Autometer Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
Autometer Boost/Vac Gauge
Gizzmo DSII Shfit Light
Apex'i Turbo Timer
JDM Factory Option MOMO Leather Steering Wheel
Familia GTX Front Seats
Redline Leather Shifter & Handbrake Boots
Complete LED Bulb Replacement
Stinger Alarm [Immobiliser, Central Locking & Remote Entry]

Stereo:
Pioneer DEH-3100UB Head Unit
Response AA0426 4x100w Amp
2x Pioneer TS-A1672S 3-Way 6" Speakers
Kicker VC-124 Comp 12" 300w Sub in box

Gallery (http://imgur.com/a/JNoYo)

http://i.imgur.com/IcD3T.jpg

derb
12-02-2012, 04:06 PM
I thought I'd finally start up a ride/project thread and stop cluttering up the 'What have you done to your car today?' thread.

I've had the pleasure of owning this car for about 3.5 years now and I love it more every day. My self and some mates have put a lot of time and effort into getting it to where it is now. Even the gallery above is inaccurate in terms of interior setup and under bonnet goodies now.

If you'd like pics of anything specific let me know, but I'll keep this thread up to date with my mods from now on.

derb
12-02-2012, 04:07 PM
It's the end of the weekend and the state of play is thus. 1x nice 2.5" dump that bolts to the factory bend. 1x VJ20 and manifold for reference and possible spares or another hybrid project. 1x VJ20 rear housing and core bolts/plates. 1x VF20 with 2 out of 4 core bolts removed. And finally a factory dump heat shield. I have been looking for one for about a year now.

http://i.imgur.com/uTZ3p.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0iroX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5Xr2q.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/M5xTx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KAQgz.jpg

derb
19-02-2012, 05:04 PM
Gave the car a wash and detailed the rims for the all jap day this morning. It still looks great sitting out on the street. Cleanest it's been in months and the rims look amazing again. However my stereo died on Monday and I have been without tunes since. The head unit is working, but everything runs off the amp in the boot. I tested it today and all fuses are fine and there is 12v going to the amp. I redid the remote wire, but still no love, so I'm going to have to dive into the loom behind the head unit.

derb
25-02-2012, 12:12 PM
I got my turbos back from East Coast Customs and the work is great. They ported the waste gate as far as possible and welded the flap in place to ensure a tight fit when closed. They also cracked the 2 bolts on the VF10 that I couldn't break, and I split the turbo this morning.

I'll mock up the hybrid on my spare manifold and use the other VJ20 as a guide for the oil and water lines. Then I should be able to fit it over the course of a day with just some slightly modified piping going to the stock side mount intercooler for now.

http://i.imgur.com/fZUOK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/u9Kzc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ev3Yk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wGj29.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dtTgd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/lnNOg.jpg

derb
26-02-2012, 04:17 PM
I finally got around to spraying and installing my dump pipe heat shield. Now I have full set and they don't look too bad in the engine bay if you ask me. When fitting the dump shield I noticed a wet lower rad pipe. Turned out the engine side clamp had failed/threaded itself at some point. So I had to dump out a pretty fresh load Redline Water Wetter. And since Burson's were closed I had to get Tectaloy. At least I found it now and not up a mountain somewhere.

I also fitted the oil catch can I've had sitting around for a few weeks. The setup going into the factory intake isn't the nicest thing you'll see, but it works. And it's not entirely useless since I have noticed a bit of blow by in the intake pipe.

http://i.imgur.com/BC01a.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zAwtu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fnEUv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/g8QJr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OmV5A.jpg

Drift Thorpey
26-02-2012, 05:11 PM
Nice work on the catch can placement buddy, nice little spot down there. Did you use factory holes that were already there or drill your own?

I may place mine over the other side of the bay, not really sure yet as I may look into my radiator overflow first and just buy matching ones so it doesn't look outta place.

Very nice and tidy car bro, keep up the good work

derb
26-02-2012, 05:31 PM
I used one of the many spare holes that became available when the factory air box was fully removed. I found a bolt that fit and flattened and drilled the mounts that came with the catch can. It's nice and stealth, but I need to do something about the abortion that is the adapter/connector setup with clear hose.

derb
08-03-2012, 09:06 AM
Well ****...

http://i.imgur.com/7iT75.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vxKXe.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8pa6v.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dPRHF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QKmXL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pzs4q.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/x3uS5.jpg

At least it's only panels and no damage to the chassis or engine bay.

Clean_Cookie
08-03-2012, 09:10 AM
Bugger. Now wait for anzac day all you can carry?

Rupewrecht
08-03-2012, 09:11 AM
:( :(

derb
08-03-2012, 09:12 AM
Nah it's getting done under insurance. I've got a rating 1 so they waived the $400 excess. It's getting assessed tomorrow morning and hopefully fixed within a few weeks but who knows. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna need to rent a car for work.

Clean_Cookie
08-03-2012, 09:13 AM
Sometimes they will pay for it or subsidize it when its being repaired?

derb
08-03-2012, 09:19 AM
Nah I don't have anything like that in my policy. I get a free ride back from the assessment centre and that's it. All I really want them to do is fix the panels and let me sort out the suspension since it's got different bushes and other things that might need replacing but that I don't trust your average mechanic to handle. I'll probably give it to MX-5 Plus when it's back for a proper check over of the front end.

project.r.racing
08-03-2012, 09:48 AM
Bugger. That's a shame since you were near the finishing line with the modding.

I did that at lakeside at 100kph, and the only mechanical issue was a busted steering rack.

If it still drives straight, and you don't have any vibrations, you probably dodged a bullet mechanical wise.

What you hit? Or what hit you?

derb
08-03-2012, 09:59 AM
Still drives straight, although the steering wheel is turned a little to the left. She came across in front me of, I hit the brakes, went into her drivers side at the rear and her momentum pushed my drivers side up on a kerb, which would have done something to the suspension.

rodhog
08-03-2012, 10:23 AM
you might have just bent a control arm.

Not nice. I hate them accidents because it's the you hit her even when they are most likely at fault for flying in front of you.

had one just like it, difference was the kid was doing 100Plus in 50 and well just my tap put him into a pole.

Never saw this before but now your BG is on my No2 of BG's (WTF323 is still my no1)
Love the spec list - must PM you about it.

derb
11-03-2012, 02:06 PM
Finally completed my hybrid turbo! Cleaned out the oil in the compressor housing using an overnight soak in vinegar and distilled water and then a quick blast with the pressurised degreaser to clear anything my rags and toothbrush couldn't reach. Just used degreaser and a light rag on the actual compressor face and a toothbrush on the compressor wheel and fins.

Then spent this morning re-coupling the housings and core to line up the actuator arm with the waste gate flap. Then I reinstalled the oil drain and added the new coolant banjo bolts. I'll re-use the oil feed from the current vj20 setup on my motor.

http://i.imgur.com/8XrQE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/StyYP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5ZotI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/YVXzc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/w78Cl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1nlyb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iVcVa.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DTyYG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Z8JPf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uvf96.jpg

derb
16-03-2012, 12:12 PM
My car is currently in with 'Victory Motor Body Works' in Kremzow St, Brendale. I've called them and confirmed that my bonnet is being repaired and not replaced, so I don't have to worry about clearing the radiator again. Completion date is currently 28/03/2012.

derb
23-03-2012, 12:55 PM
Quick update. Spoke to Victory Motor Body Works and my car will be complete next week. They got some parts in, but apparently they were crap. So I'm glad they aren't just slapping the car back together. Can't wait to see my baby again.

derb
03-04-2012, 10:52 AM
Had a sick day today, so I went and visited the panel beaters. Bonnet, left headlight and left guard are straight and on the car but unpainted. Front bar was missing, which means its in prep or spray. Either way they said the right parts were in and it will be finished either tomorrow or Thursday. So I will get the upcoming 4 day weekend to muck around good and proper. Was good to touch her again, dusty as she is. Back on cloud 9 now.

Drift Thorpey
03-04-2012, 11:21 AM
Yay... now we can stroke our little white play toys together!!! :)
Pics of fixed panels when its done too pleash. I need more motivation as I am getting a cold and will most likely have some days at home soon.

derb
03-04-2012, 11:24 AM
Yeh I think a welcome home photo shoot may be in order.

derb
05-04-2012, 05:56 PM
She has finally come home! Super stoked right now. Just spent a little while checking everything and its 99% perfect. They left a ring clamp off the 90deg elbow that goes from my pod to my AFM. I don't have any spare but I'll get some ASAP so I can drive it hard. Apart from that, excellent work.

Something that surprised me was that they transferred my LEDs that are in the indicators and parkers from the damaged parts. They even painted the whole bonnet by the looks of it, no more stone chips anywhere except the driver's side popup light cover.

And the final "holy ****, really?!?" moment was when they said they couldn't replace the passenger side 'DOHC Turbo' badge as Mazda are sold out and not making more. So I was about to take that hit when he said he is getting one made up CUSTOM just for me so it's replaced. I mean, what panel beater do you know that will do that. I'm kind of stunned really.

derb
06-04-2012, 11:26 AM
I ****ing love this car!!! Just went for a shakedown on the local mountain and its just glorious. Paint match is 100% spot on too.

http://i.imgur.com/OkBi9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SYV7M.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/z2ggz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Q4C5D.jpg

derb
14-04-2012, 04:40 PM
Quick little upgrade. Supergrid Aero wipers to replace the horrible, rusty old ones. Sanded back and resprayed the wiper arms as well so everything looks nice and new. Please ignore the giant crack in my windscreen. :o

http://i.imgur.com/BrKxb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Z9AYN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/E4cdn.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MPaF9.jpg

derb
21-04-2012, 01:45 PM
Been a bit slow lately due to budgets, but have done some work today.

Fluids checked, oil and coolant topped up.
Both wiper reservoirs filled.
Adjusted the position of the front wipers so they sat a little lower on the windscreen.
Dropped my fuel pressure down from about 38psi to 32psi. My economy has dropped since I installed it and I can smell it overfueling sometimes.
Dropped the rear end down another 15-20mm.
Fixed wiper/indicator combo stick. Dash and tail lights now working.
Glued a rattly bit of plastic back inside the cluster surround.

I've also got my ported vf10 cover in getting a 3" snout welded on. And my stainless 3" intake pipe is having the flange removed and a catch can return 8mm hose barb added to existing plumb back BOV port.

derb
26-04-2012, 07:34 AM
Minor visual update to the engine bay while all the hybrid turbo gear is getting sorted out. JDM Sport fender washers to add even more useless bling to my engine bay!

http://i.imgur.com/mRDhH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/smajR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/J0SvZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZDQta.jpg

93BGASTINAGT
29-04-2012, 10:47 AM
Hey mate i'm new to this forum, but have had my car for 5 years now.
I have a Mazda 323 Astina SP, love what you've done with your car. Mines red however and I'm getting a full respray done by next week.

I've got a question what are the best brake pads to use on the Astina SP for track and street use.

Also was going to get BC Racing Coilovers for my car and was wondering if you remember the model no. that you used.

marcs_sp20
29-04-2012, 11:31 AM
The Fender washers look sweet!

Clean_Cookie
29-04-2012, 11:34 AM
Best for what. For close to dustless and quietness, with good street performance got with qfm hpx. Gsl rallysport on here sells them. The next step up is the remsa pads, higher temp rated, lots more dust. The next step up again is the qfm a1rm, which he's currently got in the front, but wants to swap with the hpx. Initial cold bite is less and his squeel. Mine have good enough bite and quiet, so may vary depending on use. Hope that helps and welcome!

derb
29-04-2012, 01:56 PM
The Fender washers look sweet!
Thanks Marc. It's the little things that count sometimes.


I've got a question what are the best brake pads to use on the Astina SP for track and street use.

Also was going to get BC Racing Coilovers for my car and was wondering if you remember the model no. that you used.
Contact they guys at GSL Rallysport. I've bought all my brakes through them. They currently have a new brand that they are plugging called 'Remsa'. Before the new brand I would have said QFM HPX pads, but there is a Remsa equivalent for exactly the same price as the HPX. HPX will work for a decent track day and will give you bite on cold mornings. The step up, A1RM, needs heat to work properly and have given me a few close calls in morning traffic. If you want track day pads, buy a set and use them on the day only. They will last for more track days and you wont risk anything on the road.

Clean_Cookie
29-04-2012, 02:52 PM
Ive got the remsa pads on the front and they are dusty. Work well but I'd buy the hpx simply due to the low dust vs performance. Remsas wouldn't have much on the hpx.

BG1.8sp
29-04-2012, 02:55 PM
What he said ^^^^
I am running remsa front pads in my BJ
An QFM HPX in my rears.
Great cold stopping and good when you push them a bit too.
If you are looking at doing a little bit of track work or just occasionally like to push your brake pads extremely hard.
Wouldn't recommend HPX pads (sorry GSL)
On track temps they have a bit of trouble sticking together... Hehe
I just melted my rear HPX pads weeks ago.
The front remsa pads which would have had more temp in them are still perfect.
Millions of threads on various forums about The HPX pads in I suppose 'extreme' conditions.
Using QFM pads in almost all of our cars ATM.
But from using remsa pads in all conditions. I would take those over the HPX

Sorry for semi unrelated post :p


On an actually related note....
Really love your BG....
Want mine back! :(.
Fender washers look sweet :)

BG1.8sp
29-04-2012, 02:58 PM
And yes remsa pads are extremely dusty!

I actually found that the remsa pads had same cold stopping as the HPX
And that the remsa pads performed better at temp. And they didn't fade as fast as the HPX pads.

derb
29-04-2012, 03:19 PM
Crap, the A1RMs I have on the front now are dusty as hell. Really noisy constantly too from all the dust. I was hoping the Remsa option would be cleaner. Oh well, I can only hope for quieter. Thanks for the opinions on the pads guys, not thread spam after all!

Also, as for work on the car, brakes and clutch are bled and back to normal/nice. And I tightened up the coolant feed to the turbo again as it was leaking, again.

BG1.8sp
29-04-2012, 03:37 PM
My remsa pads are silent!
I do 500-800 k's a week, don't have any squealing issues from the front pads.
Occasionally slight squeal from the rear HPX.

Don't let the dust bother you... Realistically, these are cheap performance pads... There Is always one flaw... And if it's dusty pads... So be it...

You have dark coloured rims anyway. Can easily get away with it.

Actually, only time they make a bit I noise is when you cook them and when they are cooling back down. When you touch the brakes again slightest quiet squeal for a second.

Just a side note:
The remsa pads will fade sooner than the A1RM pads, and the A1RM would perform a bit better than the remsa at high temp too.
But seems like you are pretty sick of them. Lol.
And you won't have the issue of almost slamming up the back of someone in traffic :p

derb
29-04-2012, 03:59 PM
Very sick of them is an understatement. When my stereo broke for a few weeks I was ready to murder children by the end of it. And dust is indeed a good trade off for constant noise.

BG1.8sp
29-04-2012, 04:06 PM
Ahahahahaha lol!
When are you going to order the pads?
If you want I can email or msg you a pic of the amount of dust that the remsa pads produce over the HPX in a week (500k's ish)
Just cleaned my rims Friday. So if u can wait til then, I will send you a pic to give you some idea.

derb
29-04-2012, 04:13 PM
All good, I'll trade off anything for getting rid of the noise. Won't be ordering new ones for another month or two though. Gotta finish this hybrid turbo swap already.

BG1.8sp
29-04-2012, 04:21 PM
Fair enough.
I will just post up some pics next week (in my build thread) comparing them anyway.
Just for anyone's reference who Is interested.

Also, side note, think I still have a big box full of parts from my old BG.
Will pull it out sort it out. If there is anything worthwhile you can have it.
Think it's mainly like window switches, wiper stalk, blinker stalk. All that sort of stuff tht usually fails :p
You would just have to pay postage if you wanted anything.
Otherwise I will just chuck it all in the bin. Lol

derb
05-05-2012, 03:10 PM
Still waiting on the turbo intake parts to get modded. In the mean time I got bored and slapped a bunch of stickers on the rear windscreen. And I also picked up a brand new 22mm Whiteline front swaybar for a very good price. Still has the bushes in the sealed plastic bag, score!

http://i.imgur.com/ybi7B.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Wq7AO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qhCWF.jpg

derb
12-05-2012, 03:05 PM
I wanted to finish the interior of the boot with the rear strut top covers that have been missing since I bought it. Spent 6 months putting the boot area back together after the previous owner decided to perform 'weight reduction' from the rear seats back. But that's another story.

So I got my coilover damper extended adjusters [mouthful I know] from JustJap. Turns out the shortest ones, 110mm, were much too high and were fouling the rear seatbelt top mount point. So I hacked them down to about 40mm and, after several holes, got them poking up through the covers just right.

http://i.imgur.com/tdTrQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oVyql.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JxJXe.jpg

marcs_sp20
12-05-2012, 05:44 PM
Nice work on the covers, makes a difference having them in :) I cant remember from last weekend, but are you running a rear parcel shelf?

derb
12-05-2012, 05:56 PM
No, have never had a parcel shelf due to the aforementioned 'weight reduction'. But it's something I don't really mind missing.

I've also gone over my shifter linkage with a fine tooth comb and the main issue seems to be quite a lot of play in the actual ball pivot point of the shifter. There are plastic bushes in there that have just gotten loose from wear I'm guessing. So I've bought another short shift kit with those bushes included for about $70.

Mad Mat
12-05-2012, 08:50 PM
Dude I have a spare set pair of ford bushes if u need them...

project.r.racing
13-05-2012, 06:04 AM
I think he means the ball/pivot bushes, not the linkage bushes.

derb
13-05-2012, 06:52 AM
I think he means the ball/pivot bushes, not the linkage bushes.
Exactly. I've already got a set of those bushes that I put in a few months ago. There is 1 place in the linkage that could do with a few washers, but the ball joint has heaps of play, even when pulling the shifter up and down. Not good.

project.r.racing
13-05-2012, 07:05 AM
There was a dude on FL that had his whole shifter fall through the tunnel with only the knob show after those bushes wore right through.

derb
13-05-2012, 07:27 AM
I actually had that happen to me already. This is linkage #2 after my shifter fell through and was sitting on the solid arm of the linkage.

zappy65
13-05-2012, 08:07 AM
Looks really good mate, the damper covers are a clean addition.

Mind posting a link of the JDM washers, Ive been looking for some of them...

derb
13-05-2012, 09:06 AM
Got them from here, http://www.ajdmparts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=tpflypage.tpl&product_id=6375&category_id=1436&keyword=washer&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53.

However there are tons of different types and styles on ebay and other sites. Take one of your bolts down to a bunnings or something and put it in the thread measuring tool, then purchase the ones you like with the thread you need.

Clean_Cookie
13-05-2012, 09:37 AM
on ebay too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-SPORT-12-PIECE-M6-FENDER-WASHER-DRESS-UP-KIT-ANODIZED-RED-/250913124187?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6b966f5b&vxp=mtr

that shipping is a little bit...overpriced!

derb
13-05-2012, 11:45 AM
I just removed and re-taped with plumbers tape the fuel splitter block for my dual feed rail. I have been smelling fuel for weeks now and finally found the slow leak this morning. Cocooned all the fittings in tape until they looked like egyptian mummies and hopefully it holds this time.

Also, I cant seem to work on my car without getting ****ing furious within 5 seconds. I dunno if i'm just pissweak or retarded or what, but I flip out like a goddamn mental patient every time. Maybe its because its my only car and i'm stressing that if I don't fix it I will have to take 2 buses just to get within walking distance of work. this sucks.

Clean_Cookie
13-05-2012, 12:31 PM
:( just relax and ask for help :)

derb
13-05-2012, 12:44 PM
Yeh, I guess. Another reason might be that I'm 95% done on the hybrid turbo setup, but stuff like rust, shifter issues and general wear and tear are all coming up at the worst times possible. Plus I really don't want to think that my rediculously expensive gearbox is having issues after only 2 years behind a relatively stock and rarely driven hard BPT.

Clean_Cookie
13-05-2012, 12:56 PM
And it goes without saying as soon as you add that turbo it'll reveal a whole let more issues. I was eyeing off the vf12 setup for sale today on fl... I need to get this car back together before that though!

BG1.8sp
13-05-2012, 01:33 PM
Dude get some SP seats. Lol.
You must just fly out the side of those things when you go through done twisties :p

derb
13-05-2012, 01:39 PM
Actually, a guy is holding a nice set of SP front seats for me for $120. Yet another cost I have fill in somehow. Damn cars, stop being addictive to mod.

BG1.8sp
13-05-2012, 01:43 PM
Ohk, good to hear :)
Man they are comfy!!! And they actually hold you in. Much better than the ones in my BJ. Lucky I'm going reacaros lol

Now I get why parents tell their kids not to modify their cars.
Because its bloody addictive and it keeps you broke!
(not saying I'm stopping tho :p)

Clean_Cookie
13-05-2012, 01:50 PM
Hey man I'll sell you a set of ba ones for $60. I had a buyer but he went straight to fixed back seats...

derb
20-05-2012, 01:57 PM
Did my own rust repair today. There were some nasty cancer spots under where the hatch pivots, so I ripped it off and got to work.

Full image galley http://imgur.com/a/Jbnin

Not exactly the best paint match in the world, but it's not a conspicuous place. And I think you'd agree, its better than rust and bare metal. I'm pretty stoked with how it came out actually. I'm used to doing my own mechanical work all the time, but paint and panel stuff I have only just started messing with.

http://i.imgur.com/ekBlC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GqN6w.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/N09Cf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9cll1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EfDCv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iEiTJ.jpg

BG1.8sp
20-05-2012, 02:42 PM
Good job dude!
Paint and panel stuff really isn't that difficult. Just Aslong as you have some general idea of what you are doing and some time.

derb
20-05-2012, 02:45 PM
Also, proper prep is essential. After the first hour of sanding and my fingers were going numb I just kept repeating "time in prep is never wasted" to dull the pain.

BG1.8sp
20-05-2012, 03:13 PM
Yep, you can do the best paint job... But if the prep work is crappy... You end up with crappy paint job.
Lol respray a whole car.... Then complain about your fingers hurting. Lol
By the end of it you en up with no fingerprints and you skin becomes so thin that blood seeps out from the pores.. Now that sucks! Lol

rogerstrampoline
21-05-2012, 11:48 AM
Car is coming along good man :) glad I could get you those parts.....they were friggin hard to find hahaha also I have a ba and bg cigarette lighter, same size but slightly different so u can choose :)

z100
21-05-2012, 07:05 PM
That looks like a really neat, clean job you have done. How long did it take you?

derb
21-05-2012, 07:38 PM
2 hours prep. Then 4 coats [1x primer, 3x colour] 30 mins apart. Not counting the time to taken removing the hatch which was another 15 mins on and off.

derb
02-06-2012, 02:33 PM
Sadly very little is getting done lately due to annoying little screw ups. I finally got an engine crane to do my sump seals and install the Whiteline swaybar.

But firstly the Repco that told me they had stock couldn't work it out when I went to buy them, and then the engine crane hydraulic arm crapped out and wouldn't lift above level. And finally, I went to put my newly modded front turbo cover on the hybrid turbo and the 3 holes that the actuator base plate mounts to are all somewhat stripped.

No clear plan as yet as to how to proceed, I might have to get the other cover modded, but its not ported out like the other one. At least the intake pipe is 100% done. Big fitting for the factory plumb back BOV and small fitting for the oil catch can return. Anyway, I took some mockup pics so you can have something to look at instead of this wall of text.

http://i.imgur.com/IDE6m.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OixNf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7ZBbk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3fZM3.jpg

derb
12-06-2012, 06:40 AM
I'm sitting at home today with a possibly broken toe, so I thought I'd do an update.

I've been trying to install my new swaybar since Sunday but it certainly isn't an easy or simple process. Mazda had the genius idea to hide the bar right up in the guts of the suspension/steering on it's own cross-member that also supports the LCAs.

So far I've removed:
-The front-to-back engine cross-member
-The power steering rack mounts
-Pulled the rack out of its mounts and off the suspension cross-member
-Dropped the exhaust from the dump pipe
-Removed all nuts/bolts holding the suspension cross-member in place

But the cross-member still won't move out of its home due to it sitting on the exhaust and shifter linkage. So hopefully today I can drop the shifter linkage assembly out of the car along with the rest of the exhaust and finally remove the suspension cross-member and install the new swaybar on to it. I would really recommend this job to a mechanic unless you have lots of time and tools.

rogerstrampoline
12-06-2012, 07:15 AM
**** that sounds fun.........broken toe stills sounds better than my day of gathering all my notes for 13 weeks of classes and combining them into one useful document for study...then beginning to do some practise essay style questions :(

project.r.racing
12-06-2012, 07:59 AM
it's a 2 person job even if you have a hoist. when i did my bushes. we removed the cross member. dropped the rear bolts and lossened the front bolts on the K-frame. then used a pry bar to gain 50mm of access to all the goodness hidden under their. btw 50mm of access is still not enough.

without a hoist, i would be:-
supporting the engine weight with strut tower crossover
undo the front and rear engine mounts and remove cross member
say 'f@#k, s@#t and motherf@#ker' about ten times
remove exhaust
say 'f@#k, s@#t and motherf@#ker' about ten times
undo ball joint and steering rack bolts
say 'f@#k, s@#t and motherf@#ker' about ten times
undo end link bolts attached to control arms
say 'f@#k, s@#t and motherf@#ker' about ten times
undo front and back K-frame bolts and remove K-frame
say 'f@#k, s@#t and motherf@#ker' about ten times
now do what you gotta do with the upper side while the K-frame is on the ground (attach everything to the K-frame and new sway bar at this stage)

to replace, do reverse, but say 'f@#k, s@#t and motherf@#ker' about one hundred times between each step

Clean_Cookie
12-06-2012, 08:02 AM
Btw it took me and my mate 2 hours to remove the steering rack, k frame, exhaust and swaybar, even with the engine out.

derb
12-06-2012, 08:14 AM
Yay, super fun. Engine is currently being supported by a crane so all good there. I'll put 1 bolt back in either side of the k-frame and drop the shifter linkage today and then I guess I'm waiting for another set of hands at some point to remove the k-frame over the exhaust and out.

Clean_Cookie
12-06-2012, 08:23 AM
I'd help biut I have the flu. Not fun.

derb
12-06-2012, 09:24 AM
Shifter linkage is off, but the rack is still hung up on one of the mounts to the k-frame. The k-frame itself is moving around quite nicely, so I know it's just that one spot holding it back. I think I might need to grab the scissor jack and crank the k-frame back upwards to release the weight of the rack on the mount point, then once that's off it should come down out of the car.

rogerstrampoline
12-06-2012, 10:32 AM
if i didn't have to be a PT for someone at gym tonight i would be straight up there!! or work the rest of the days, however i shall be free this weekend most likely

derb
15-06-2012, 08:25 PM
OK, so after setting the steering rack free and trying to drop the k-frame, it's now fouling on the lower gearbox mount. Me and a mate can't seem to free the nuts for the mount on the gearbox easily, but I'm changing course on working on the car. It will stay in the garage for a while now and I will be upgrading some bits in the process. Work smarter, not harder.

I'll be getting a set of urethane engine mount inserts from the USA to stiffen up the mounts while the engine and gearbox are being held by the crane. Once all the mounts are off there is literally nothing holding the k-frame back except the exhaust, but I will be able to slide it over that or just suck it up and jack the rear and remove the whole system if need be.

Then everything back together with the stiffer mounts and swaybar like magic, I hope. I'll also be adjusting my oil sensors as I'm not happy with the placement of the temp sender. But none of the gauges are even in the car at this point anyway, so the oil temp, pressure and water temp senders have just been for looks all this time. So I'll at least get the waterproof connectors I bought hooked up to the senders in their new positions and run the wiring into the cabin.

rogerstrampoline
16-06-2012, 09:19 AM
That just sounds painful :( well upside is you got the swaybar off some awesome guy at less than half price....always an upside

derb
16-06-2012, 09:46 AM
Exactly dude, I just can't hate anything about this process considering the price of the bar and $0 labour charges since I'm the one getting dirty. Plus it lets me do a few things with ease from underneath instead of trying to work on a parked, non-jacked car. I'm going to get those oil sump seals today and do that too as there is nothing fouling the sump if I want to drop it today.

EDIT: Just went and bought two front brake caliper rebuild kits and some copper grease. And I've ordered my two sump seals that will be in Monday next week. Lots of fun stuff to do!

derb
16-06-2012, 12:51 PM
http://i.imgur.com/DAbLd.jpg

derb
24-06-2012, 03:06 PM
Still properly into project mode and loving it. Sadly most projects are half complete so few pics yet, but I did manage to complete a respray and rebuild of one of my front brake calipers.

http://i.imgur.com/QYRjA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0JOf0.jpg

I've also dropped the oil and removed all but 2 sump bolts in readiness to do the seals. And once that and the other brake caliper are done I'll fully drop the k-frame and swap the swaybars. Then its wait time until my urethane engine mount inserts arrive from Amurrica.

rogerstrampoline
25-06-2012, 07:02 AM
Hopefully she is up and running for the next downshift meet :) finally two turbo astinas!!!!! Also I have to drill and bolt up that support behind the intake manifold to fit the new clearance

derb
25-06-2012, 07:34 AM
When is it? I'm really hoping to have it all done within the next 3 weeks.

rogerstrampoline
25-06-2012, 08:44 AM
Don't know they have one every month and it varies on the date each month too

marcs_sp20
25-06-2012, 11:18 AM
7th of July supposedly, so get ya arse into gear!! :p

derb
01-07-2012, 08:10 AM
Brake rebuilds complete. Pretty happy with this actually. I know it's not rebuilding a motor, but the time I spent on prep and assembly was long and fun.

http://i.imgur.com/xinDm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Klyte.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/BAT3y.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dlCzW.jpg

Clean_Cookie
01-07-2012, 08:31 AM
Where did you get the seals mate? Keen to do this to my v6 hubs/calipers.

derb
01-07-2012, 08:36 AM
I got two PBR rebuild kits from Burson's which came with all the perishable rubber boots/seals and even new bleed nipple covers. All you'd need to put it together would be a small flat screwdriver and some rubber grease.

Clean_Cookie
01-07-2012, 08:42 AM
Cost approx? Thanks :D

derb
01-07-2012, 09:00 AM
Mine were $40 each, not exactly the cheapest things in the world.

project.r.racing
01-07-2012, 09:08 AM
Brands new brakes for $40 each. You've sold me!

derb
01-07-2012, 09:09 AM
I guess that is cheap when you put it that way.

derb
10-07-2012, 01:59 PM
Halfway through the sump gaskets change. Sump is off and pretty damn clean, as clean as a 20 year old sump can be. Everything looks great for the engine, the oil pickup is spotless and there was not even a spec of metal in the sump itself, so the engine and bearings should be sweet. As usual I'm still shopping for stuff, I've bought a set of urethane crossmember mounts that replace the factory rubber pieces on the front to back engine crossmember and I'm still waiting for my urethane engine mount inserts to turn up. I also bought a boost/vacuum distribution block as I currently have a mess of tubing that has been T-ed off to run things like my boost gauge and fuel pressure reg. Plus I'm going to be adding an EBC soon that will require yet another boost/vac feed. So I'm replacing the mess with one of these.
http://i.imgur.com/0U7lS.jpg

93BGASTINAGT
02-08-2012, 01:04 PM
Just wondering where and what size and also what adapter did you use for the 3A racing pod filter. Just bought a black one for mine, just wondering also how did you install it cause in mine there is no room, unless you take all the plastic from the original air box.

Also the blue plastic you used to curve the filter around and place it down the bottom of the engine bay. Where did you get this from and what size is it. Cause I want to install this in my car. Did you buy it from Autobarn perhaps or another big retailer and if so could you please tell me the exact sizing.

Cheers, Hope to hear from you soon.

derb
02-08-2012, 01:11 PM
Hey mate, the pod adapter was already on the car when I bought it but yes you have to remove all the airbox plastics and therefore your panel filter. The blue hose is just a 3" silicon bend off ebay. Find the one that's cheapest for you, it doesn't have to hold extra pressure like in an intercooler setup so cheap is fine.

rogerstrampoline
09-08-2012, 06:11 AM
Hope your ready to smash it together this weekend

project.r.racing
09-08-2012, 06:31 AM
Whats going on this weekend?

derb
09-08-2012, 07:03 AM
Putting the damn thing back together. It's been off the road for too long.

derb
25-10-2012, 12:36 PM
Wellll, super mega thread dig, but it's my thread so screw you. :p

As per the last post, I'm still faffing about with the swaybar. It got to a point where the car was so apart I started to feel like I lost the battle and couldn't even get it back together. I got disheartened and starting taking the bus to work. Sadly, sitting on a bus with music blaring is a hell of a lot easier than fighting peak hour traffic in a manual car, so I just kept on taking the bus and the Astina fell to the back of my mind.

Shortly after I started taking the bus, my mate showed me a new toy. Namely, a Tamiya CC-01 4WD 1:10th scale radio control car. All I have to say is that RC is about 10x more addictive than real cars. Mods are cheap, easy to perform and require few special tools. It's basically all the best parts of modding a real car but without any of the blood, sweat or tears. I was hooked, and starting running the rig in local competitions.

I think the CC-01 was a great starting place as it's quite cheap, but fairly incapable of going over anything more than a few inches when stock. So tubs got cut, custom suspension went in, gear reduction unit, etc. Now it's a friggen beast and I couldn't imagine life without it. Here are a few pics, if anyone wants full specs I'll post them in here.

http://i.imgur.com/s6hpx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/J0qbp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/I9Dhh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hek3M.jpg

ANYWAY, the 'honeymoon' has worn off and I've started working on the 1:1 car again. With 2 mates we managed to pull the old swaybar out and get the new one in without having to drop the entire k-frame to the floor. Then it was several hours spent over a few days trying to get painful bolts back into holes over bigger bushes, etc. But it got clamped down to the k-frame finally and myself and mate started putting everything back together last weekend.

We quickly found our first issue, which was that it looks like the swaybar is going to foul quite heavily on an upper part of the k-frame. The factory bar had a small bend in just the right place to combat this, but the Whiteline bar did not have the 'notch'. So thanks to project.r's suggestion I took 20mm out of the middle bush seprator pieces and put the endlinks and bushes back on. Clearance looks much better now, so FINALLY it can go back together this Saturday.

To do:-
Connect the turbo oil drain to the sump
Tighten rear gearbox/engine mount [was loosened to let the k-frame down]
Reinstall the front to rear crossmember with delrin bushes [thanks ClubProtege guy]
Bleed the brakes and clutch [the system bled dry when I pulled the front calipers off for the rebuild]
Put the tyres back on, drop it and check swaybar to LCA clearance
Reconnect AFM wire back to itself [I pulled out the SAFC]
Charge the battery [i'm pretty sure it's dead Jim]

I'm hoping to be back on the road before week after next as work wants me to cover a site out at the airport and I don't feel like asking mummy to drop me off and pick me up every day. I'm also hoping to be back on deck for the QLD mod fest thing and I'll start showing up to the socials again. I'm sure rogerstrampoline will be happy as well. So, sorry for dropping off the face of the earth, but I now know what herion feels like through RC cars.

derb
27-10-2012, 04:54 PM
Great progress today, all mechanical work complete. Everything back together and no spare nuts or bolts. I managed to work out the delrin bushes and got them installed too. Currently charging the battery charger, is that ironic or something? And depending on how long work runs for tomorrow, I'll get the brake flush and AFM wire both done tomorrow arvo and it can charge the battery overnight. I can't believe it all went back together so easily, I'm pretty ashamed that I took this long to fix it back up. :o

Clean_Cookie
27-10-2012, 05:19 PM
EPIC "LIKE" for this status. well done!

derb
12-11-2012, 12:25 PM
Well the master cylinder is f**ked. Spent a good hour trying to just get it to prime. The damn thing just will not draw any fluid from the reservoir. So I've bought a new master online from a mob in Brisbane so hopefully it shows up tomorrow and I can bench prime it.

derb
21-11-2012, 10:07 AM
Finally got some time to install the new brake master and it's working perfectly. It bled the cylinder as expected this time and and I bled both the rear brakes with the expected flow of fluid. I ran out of time last night so will finish bleeding the fronts and clutch tonight. I've also borrowed a soldering iron and I'll connect my AFM wire back to itself tonight too. If she starts I'll post a vid to prove it. :D

On another note, does anyone want a set of 15x7" 'mesh' type wheels?
http://i.imgur.com/96hPH.jpg

derb
22-11-2012, 08:29 AM
Brakes and clutch bled, AFM wire reconnected, dead battery. :( Grabbing a new one tonight and will be back on the road before the weekend.

project.r.racing
22-11-2012, 09:15 AM
roll start biatch!

derb
22-11-2012, 09:19 AM
OMFG I am dumb! I'm getting a new battery but you are totally right. Fark!

project.r.racing
22-11-2012, 09:22 AM
if it's been sitting for ages. it probably needs alot of cranking. so battery is probably a better option. or at least a jump start.

derb
22-11-2012, 08:10 PM
The Astina lives! Also batteries are friggen expensive.

derb
01-12-2012, 03:10 PM
I've just given the car a clean bill of health after a nasty scraping sound on the first outing. It was wheel speed oriented, but not affected by brakes, and thankfully was just the rotor guard bent onto the rotor.

And I just realised I've got work tomorrow which means I can't come to the QLD mega day. :(

Clean_Cookie
01-12-2012, 03:44 PM
I always bend them haha. Glad that its all sweet Matt and i will be ripping into my new daily shortly so if you're really really keen to go for a long drive you're more than welcome hehe

derb
03-12-2012, 12:43 PM
Oh man this car is super awesome. It's most likely due to actually driving it again, but it feels amazing. Boosts so strongly and I can whip corners like a gokart. Had a douche tailgating me yesterday, until we got to 2 sharp corners that I could take at the speed limit. :D Also verry happy with the SP/GTX seats I got off rogerstrampoline, I think I would have been thrown around the car without them. And after driving mum's camry for 7 months the Astina feels like fitting into a small cardboard box.

Definitely going to just keep the maintenance up at this stage. I'd like to get some slotted front rotors at some point in time. I'm also going to swap my fresh KU36s onto the Mazdaspeed rims and then sell the meshies. The only 'mods' I have kept are my gauges and I plan on getting them installed in the next few weeks.

pakmi
05-12-2012, 02:33 PM
awesome ride!! love it

Mad Mat
05-12-2012, 03:03 PM
would love to get a ride in this thing some day :)

derb
05-12-2012, 03:31 PM
Next meet hit me up Mat.

Carlwhite
09-12-2012, 01:50 AM
Chassis:
1993 Mazda BG 323 Astina Hatch

[b]Engine:
Complete JDM BPT Transplant [Engine, Loom & ECU]
1839cc DOHC Fuel Injected Turbo
Turbotech Boost Controller @ 13psi
Apex'i SAFC [Gen 1]
Walbro GSS431 Fuel Pump
M-Tuned Dual Feed Fuel Rail
Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator with DRiFT Fuel Pressure Gauge
2.5" OEM Dump Pipe to 2.5" Cat, 2.25" Press Bent Exhaust, One Muffler
3A Racing Pod Filter
Cold Air Intake
Bosch HEC715 High Energy Coil
9mm Queensland Ignition Leads
40mm Aluminium Radiator
Delrin solid crossmember bushes
'Wrinkle Red' Cam Cover
JDM MazdaSpeed Oil Cap
JDM Pollution Canister

Driveline:
Rebuilt 5 Speed G-Series Gearbox [G-series Casings, G25M-R and Familia 4WD Gears]
Custom 3-piece Double Cone Synchros on 1st, 2nd & 3rd
PAR Straight Cut 3rd Gear
Familia GTR 5th Gear [0.71]
mFactory Helical LSD
Familia GTX flywheel
Nick's Performance Clutches Custom 5-puk Ceramic/Metallic Sprung Centre Clutch
Short Shifter

Fluids:
Engine: Penrite Sin 10W-70
Gearbox: Royal Purple SynchroMax
Brakes/Clutch: Nulon Xtreme Super Dot 4
Cooling: Tectaloy 100+ Performance

Handling/Braking:
BC Racing 'BR' Coilovers [6kg Front, 4kg Rear]
Whiteline Strut Braces [Front & Rear]
Whiteline 22mm Front Swaybar
35mm Double Offset Urethane Front LCA Bushes
Urethane Front & Rear Swaybar Link Bushes
DOHC Front Brake Peimar led (http://www.niceledlights.com) Rotors/Callipers/Hubs
QFM A1RM Brake Pads [front]
QFM HPX Brake Pads [rear]

Wheels/Tyres:
Street:
JDM MazdaSpeed MS-03 15" Rims
Yokohama S.Drive 205/50/15 [Front]
Toyo R1R 205/50/15 [Rear]
Track:
Rota 'Mesh' 15" Rims
Kumho KU-36 [Front & Rear]

Exterior:
JDM Familia Front Grill Badge
JDM Rear Centre Garnish
JDM Tail/Brake Lights
JDM 'GT-X' Badging [Rear]
JDM MazdaSpeed Badging [Rear]
JDM 'DOHC Turbo' Badging [Sides]
Darkest Legal Tint
Complete LED Bulb Replacement
'Race Spec' Tow Hook

Interior:
Autometer Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
Autometer Boost/Vac Gauge
Gizzmo DSII Shfit Light
Apex'i Turbo Timer
Familia GTX Front Seats
JDM Factory Option MOMO Leather Steering Wheel
Leather Shifter & Handbrake Boots
Complete LED Bulb Replacement
Stinger Alarm [Immobiliser, Central Locking & Remote Entry]

Stereo:
Pioneer DEH-3100UB Head Unit
Response AA0426 4x100w Amp
2x Pioneer TS-A1672S 3-Way 6" Speakers
Kicker VC-124 Comp 12" 300w Sub in box

Gallery of the latest pics (http://imgur.com/a/JNoYo)

http://i.imgur.com/IcD3T.jpg


Hot vehicle gorgeous choice

derb
14-12-2012, 12:58 PM
Thanks mate.

The car has been running flawlessly since it went back on the road. No leaks of anything anywhere and the swaybar isn't rubbing the upper LCA mount. I have heard it hit the mount point somewhere twice, but they were from pot holes. I've not heard anything while cornering so the setup is fine with me. I've booked into the local Jax as well tomorrow morning to get my KU36s put on the Mazdaspeed rims and a full alignment. Can't wait for the tyres, they have been sitting on my 'race rims' for probably over a year now without ever having 1 single kilometer put on them. And now I get to drop some computers from our city office to the Ipswich one. Back to getting paid to drive like the old job. :D

Gibbonz
14-12-2012, 07:15 PM
Lookin good buddy, i never get bored of looking at the little BG's :)

Just bought some goodies tonight i will post some piccies in my thread so be sure to check them out.

derb
14-12-2012, 10:06 PM
Will do man, cheers.

Clean_Cookie
15-12-2012, 12:05 AM
Ahh you will love those tyres... Round nebo there was seemingly infinite traction. With an lsd...oh wow

derb
15-12-2012, 09:32 AM
Don't forget the swaybar. It doesn't roll at all any more and understeer is practically non-existent under full throttle.

ghetto3
16-12-2012, 11:52 AM
I love the discreet exterior and then you see under the bonnet...and then the spec list.

Must be a pleasure rowing that gearbox!
First..wheelspin..second feather wheelspin.. Third.. Hairs stand on end (cue laughter similar to rupes').. Fourth for overtaking.... Wait. Fifth for overtaking too? Where did that come from? Bg sp gearbox?

derb
16-12-2012, 12:33 PM
Thanks mate, I do have a sticker on the rear that says "Eat, Sleep, Shift!" so yes I love to shift gears. There is rarely any wheelspin in first as that gear is very short. Some would say useless, but the step to second is quite large too so it makes sense to rev first all the way out as there is no loss of grip. Third is always a treat for the ears, and sometimes I go for the non-existent sixth gear as it seems to be going too fast for top gear.

The fresh tyres and alignment has worked wonders too. All kinds of crazy toe on the fronts, thanks to swaybar install, were zeroed out and it doesn't dart about like crazy under full throttle any more. Plus they managed to get the steering wheel straight for the first time in about 2.5 years. However I do have a leak of fluid somewhere that I'm checking out this arvo.

derb
16-12-2012, 04:26 PM
Found and fixed three leaks. Radiator drain plug loose, easy fix. Oil seeping past sump gasket at front of engine, tightened the sump bolts which were at least a single spanner turn loose. And oil seeping from filter sandwich plate, removed it. All simple fixes and the oil dripping from the sandwich plate was falling right onto the flexible union in the exhaust, which explains the smell the last few days. Very happy that these were easy fixes.

Clean_Cookie
16-12-2012, 04:30 PM
Yay! I want your Gearbox now lol.

Gibbonz
20-12-2012, 11:55 AM
This little beauty was the inspiration that i required for my work in progress astina.. love it dude!

derb
20-12-2012, 12:26 PM
Thanks mate, I'm glad I'm inspiring other BG owners. I just love these little boxes.

rogerstrampoline
29-12-2012, 10:48 PM
You're what inspired my BP turbo :) still have to have the old race to see if the compression makes a difference :)

mcwilly
31-01-2013, 11:16 PM
Good looking car mate.

derb
13-03-2013, 01:10 PM
Not much news these days, just keeping the car maintained and not really looking at mods any more. But it just got booked in for a track day out at QR this Saturday! I won't be driving her, a good mate will be the pilot, but I gave the car a good thrashing last weekend and it feels awesome now. Engine feels like silk all the way to 7000rpm after blowing the cobwebs out and the front swaybar is just excellent. And there is a servo at Virginia that sells 100ron fuel which I will be filling up with tonight and I'm really looking forward to see how much harder it pulls with it.

I know some will wonder why I'm not driving, its mainly due to 'the fear' I seem to get on tracks, and I also can't really afford it anyway lol. But I will finally get to watch my own car go hard instead of the usual view out of the windscreen. I also own a GoPro now so expect some glorious 720p footage to go up on YouTube at some stage.

Clean_Cookie
13-03-2013, 04:33 PM
as long as it comes home in one piece!

derb
16-03-2013, 07:32 PM
Well, kinda good day, kinda bad day. Was so awesome to see my car going round the track and keeping some other cars at bay. Felt like a parent watching their kid and couldn't keep the smile off my face. My mate said the car felt amazing, super flat around the bends and the LSD let him put almost all the power down mid corner. He actually managed to snag a drive of his bosses E92 BMW M3 which has the V8 and he said the Astina felt much more stable and useable. So I was pretty ecstatic and he is in love with the Astina now.

However, when he came in after the first session he instantly alerted me that he saw some white smoke coming through the floor at the end of the session. Normally I would freak out, but I've seen the odd whiff here and there myself and knew it would be oil on the exhaust. Then I looked under it and saw the oil coming out!

Thankfully it wasn't that much oil, but after some simple diagnosis it was determined the rear main seal was on the way out as there was no oil coming from anywhere above the sump line and there was a little trickle coming from where the clutch fork goes into the bell housing. I let it sit for 30mins and checked the oil which was still above the full mark, so i fired her back up and only got one drip every 20-30 seconds. So really just a 'flesh wound' which was exacerbated by the g-forces pushing the oil in the sump up against the rear main on right hand turns.

We drove home and it was perfectly fine, no smoke, no warning lights, it really is a champ of a car. It's living in the garage at home for now and has only dripped out very small amount, the level is still above full without any additional oil added. It's nearly time for the timing belt to be replaced anyway, so I'll book it in at Automotive Plus for the 200,000km service. I'm definitely not mad at my mate, actually kinda feel bad that my car let him down and he didn't get his other two sessions. But as I said, his boss threw the M3 keys at him in consolation and he nearly shat himself in surprise and joy.

Anyway, here is the in-car video from the session. Sadly my car really is pretty quiet, but you can hear the straight cut third gear if you crank the volume up. I love the GoPro too, funnily enough I think I spent more time looking at the sky in this video, the high-def is soo gorgeous.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNDGfE9cyWM

project.r.racing
17-03-2013, 07:47 AM
Rear main seal normally near there end-of-life if they have a huge bashing, the give way like that. Especially if running thins oils in high rpm/high temp situations.

I still have to do mine soon. Every time I go into the garage to do it, I just think another day and walk away. lol

derb
18-03-2013, 10:45 AM
Booked in at Automotive Plus for Tuesday next week. Full timing belt kit and tensioners, check of sump seals, replace accessory belts [i have kept a brand new pair in my back seat for years now since I have RACQ but they never have the right belts] and a new oil pressure sender as mine is leaking. Hopefully they don't find any other serious issues.

Mad Mat
18-03-2013, 10:47 AM
haha man that video was awesome.. the sound of third gear make me giggle as it sound like a SC hee hee :)

derb
18-03-2013, 11:55 AM
There was a supercharged Lotus Elise there on the day too and it sounded exactly like my third gear, was awesome.

derb
29-03-2013, 07:53 PM
Got the car back from Automotive Plus yesterday, they really do excellent work. Apart from the main list of jobs, I asked them to replace the oil pressure sender as I believed it to be leaking. They removed the whole intake manifold and the issue laid not with the pressure sender, but with the knock sensor that lives directly above it. It's made partly out of resin which had started to weaken and leak. Not only that, but they found that the coolant thermoswitch, also hidden under the manifold, was probably weeks from failing itself. When they removed it to check it fell to pieces in their hands. And my own home job of replacing the sump seals was done incorrectly which was another oil leak adding to the hunt for drips.

So the list of replacements is as follows:-

Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner and spring
Front main crank seal
Rear main crank seal
Both cam seals
Sump gaskets
Thermoswitch sensor
Knock sensor
Oil change and filter
Both accessory belts [I always kept them in the back of my seat since I have RACQ, but they never have the right belts on them]

All that plus 12 hours of labour for $1600, which I think is very fair considering the whole gearbox had to be removed to do the rear main seal, plus they had it ready to go for the long Easter weekend. If anyone in Brisbane needs a mechanic that knows Mazdas like the back of their hands, it's the guys at Automotive Plus!