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luk3333
16-05-2012, 08:33 PM
2002 2.0l FS-DE

Engine:
Custom Aluminium Intake (In Garage):
*K&N 3 Inch Pod Filter
*Aluminium Air Box
*Fiberglass Wrapped
*Samco Silicone Hoses
Stock Box (Current)
Bosch Iridium Plugs
Replaced Timing Belt, Water Pump, Oil Seals( Back Front Camshaft) Thermostat, Valve Seals, Exedy Clutch : November 2012
Filled Engine Mounts With Urethane
Shaved Head (0.5mm) (10.5 CR)
Polished and Ported Head


Suspension/Braking:
QFM HPX Pads Front And Rear
Nulon Dot 4 Brake Fluid
SP20 Sway Bar
SP20 Front Strut Brace
Camber Bolts:
*-3 Degrees Front
*-3 Degrees Rear
Castor:
*+30 Minutes Front
Autoexe Springs Front and Rear
Chopped Lovells in Garage
Cusco LCA Brace


Wheels:
14 Inch Stockies With Chrome Trim
Crap Dunlops. These are now my spare set for playing silly buggers
17 Inch 5 Spoke Grey Alloys


Appearance:
Aircon Vent LED's
Maroon Trimmed Inserts
Smoked Side Indicators
Smoked Tail Lights
Black Painted Headlights
Yellow Tinted Front Indicators
Aluminium Front Bar Inserts
Matt Black Front Grill
Matt Black Front + Rear Badge
Debadged "Astina" and "323" badges
Painted Calipers Silver
Sticker Bombed Bonnet Underside
Carbon Vinyl Shifter Surround


Sound:

JVC Head Unit
Alpine S Type 6 Inch Front + Tweeters
Alpine S Type 6Inch Rear

luk3333
16-05-2012, 08:33 PM
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/A.jpg
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/B.jpg
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/C.JPG
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/D.JPG
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/E.JPG
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/F.JPG
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/G.JPG

Rhys
16-05-2012, 10:01 PM
Nice. I like the air vent led's. how'd you do that?

luk3333
16-05-2012, 10:24 PM
The centre ones i drilled and glued an LED into the duct when the radio was out. The left from under the glove box, and the right i had to remove the bit of interior on the right of the driver side dash. Then hooked them up to turn on with the headlights :P In hindsight, it wasn't worth the effort

smurfy
16-05-2012, 10:40 PM
Ahaha bonnet looks sickk!!

luk3333
16-05-2012, 10:42 PM
Thanks :P Hopefully ill get around to clear coating it before it gets ruined..

Zenki
16-05-2012, 10:48 PM
Haha, with that "mightycarmods" sticker, you've already gain 25kw more =)) MAAAAD

luk3333
17-05-2012, 07:01 AM
and the callipers, so its got at least 130kw :P

AndrewJ
17-05-2012, 08:15 PM
Nice wheels. :p

marcs_sp20
17-05-2012, 08:30 PM
Love the chrome trims, I reckon some dumping in the weeds and you'd be set! :D

luk3333
18-05-2012, 04:51 PM
lol, hopefully ill be moving up from stockies soon..

Rhys
18-05-2012, 04:59 PM
I actually like the steelies.. it just looks a bit funny being in 4wd mode. You know how to do the shoe test I'm assuming ;)

luk3333
23-06-2012, 08:22 PM
Little update:
bought a set of 17" rims and tyres(brand new) 2nd hand $250 absolute bargain and i bought swifts lowering autoexe springs to reduce some of the 4wd appearance. I needed to buy new lugs so i bought some red anodised Rays lugs and they were beautiful..but they didn't fit the rim (i need slim shank). So i got my money back and I'm getting the correct sizing not in Rays :( ... With the wheel alignment I'm going to also chuck on some extra camber and maybe castor to try something different.

In other news, I'm working through a custom one off front bar. All the fabricating with MDF is done, and half the bogging. Pretty happy with it so far considering i started out with no idea of what i wanted and i only work on it 2 or 3 times a week. I'll post a photo up soon, including the rims which I'm also reeaallyy happy with :)

Now that i have my goodies though it's time to focus on the problems... clutch slips when driving hard, but is fine when driving normally at the moment luckily, and at least 2 engine mounts are F***ed, and possibly the rear which i haven't checked yet. Woo.. Also hoping to get a new oxy sensor and some MAF cleaner just as general maintenance to see if i can get a bit better economy.

JDM323
23-06-2012, 09:38 PM
how did you mount the overflow bottle near the battery (pics)?

luk3333
25-06-2012, 05:14 PM
theresa bolt left from when i removed the air box. I just modified the metal bracket and bolted it down onto that. I can get some pictures tomorrow if you like

JDM323
25-06-2012, 05:32 PM
yes please.

luk3333
01-07-2012, 03:56 PM
Here are the photos of wheels + springs, this is without the 2 degrees camber as when i put the struts back in i set the bolts as close to zero as possible. I've since got it aligned with 2 degrees all round.

http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/1.jpg
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/2.jpg
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/3.jpg
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/4.jpg
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/5.jpg

Honestly, for anyone who is modifying on a budget, i would definitely recommend getting a set of second hand lowering springs. The springs coupled with the new rims feel brilliant. No more boaty-ness and turns in brilliantly. I also did the castor mod that is stickied in the suspension section. It is slightly tougher to turn but over all the car is ridiculously better when it comes to handling.

shaley: here are some photos of how i mounted it

http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/Coolant relo 1.jpg
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/coolant relo 2.jpg
http://www.lbautoparts.net/images/Car/coolant relo 3.jpg

smurfy
01-07-2012, 04:29 PM
you were at the lowndown meet heyy??...

luk3333
01-07-2012, 05:48 PM
yup :) i saw your car there, its very easy to spot

smurfy
01-07-2012, 06:02 PM
pretty sure i left a card on your car ;) ahah that sp20 that was parked near you was pretty nice very clean....

luk3333
01-07-2012, 06:47 PM
i got the card :P brilliant idea for the forum

luk3333
07-08-2012, 08:13 PM
So, a few updates.

Bought wheels spacers, they turned up with 10 holes cut out of them, rather than just the 4 i wanted, so they will be sent back to the fools at fault. The wheels are now black centers with the silver lip. Came out pretty good for a rattle can job. Was going to go acrylic with a clear and everything but couldn't be bothered. Kind of tempted to try a dark grey on..

I bought set of already cut springs and some suspect Lovells shocks (already slightly rusted, but not bad i suppose for $80 springs and shocks) in an attempt to go a bit lower. Also since ive realised just how crap my tires are, i will be piling on the camber in an attempt to wear them out so i may by something decent :) might as well have some fun right?

In the pipeline is a new intake, box and filter (something less oily...) an air intake temp sensor for some CAI research, and my tint is bugging me :(

Lastly, i quick-fixed an engine mount by completely filling it with polyurethane sealant and it seems to have helped a bit

luk3333
19-08-2012, 08:20 PM
Painted the wheels, installed the springs and am still waiting on the bloody spacers.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/09785186.jpg

I also bought a FS motor with intake and exhaust manifold!

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/a67ac816.jpg

I plan to get the head shaved and thinner metal head gasket to increase compression. Ive started polishing the intake ports in an effort for better flow, and im going to try and polish as much of the intake manifold as well. Sandpaper and manual labor (my own) is free so it worth a go if I get .001 of a kilowatt :P. This is my effort so far:

Before:
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/f8dbff8a.jpg

After:
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/ded72a92.jpg

I was going to locktite the VICS butterflys but..
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/f25710fa.jpg
there was only one left working.. one had snapped and locked open, and the other two plates were completely gone, the screws were still in the manifold. Theres no way the throttle plate could have gotten past the valves so im not sure where they went, and cant see any scores on the cylinder or any damage to the head from missing screws. So, Ill be using the VICS off the FP and using stud lock. Last thing i need is to ruin my new motor...

Pistons look quite caked with carbon
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/3d436cdf.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/4e850655.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/9510be26.jpg
Considering pulling them out and replacing the rings. The engine has 200,000 on it so it might be a good investment now, rather than go through it later.

Also i know this has been mentioned before somewhere on this forum and it was decided it wouldn't work but Im sure that there's a possibility. FP pistons into FS giving more than 9.7CR? Considering both FP and FS have compression rations of 9.7 stock here in Australia, and both have the same bore but the FS has a longer stroke.

For the FS:
at BDC capacity is 2.0l
compression ratio is 9.7
Therefore at TDC capacity is .206l approx

For the FP
at BDC capacity is 1.8l
compression is 9.7
Therefore at TDC capacity is .185l approx

If the heads are the same (and they are, both have the same casting numbers on the side), then the different in TDC capacity must be made up in the pistons and/or rods (need to varify this). Looking at the FS pistong the have quite a deep dish and if the FP pistons have a shallower dish swapping them could yield a much higher compression ratio. Right? Just a thought guys :P

luk3333
21-08-2012, 07:17 PM
Found where the two missing VICS butterflys were. They were stuck behind the one which was stuck open! so now I have two working ones..

smurfy
21-08-2012, 07:24 PM
Mmm.. Have a look or ask about the vic butterfly to marc... He blew his engine cause of them. I think its best to remove them?..

luk3333
21-08-2012, 08:42 PM
These's were the ones in the second IM. i was going to bin this, and then when i changed motors over use the VICS off the FP and locktite them. I'd rather keep them if possible as they do provide a kick when they close* and im staying N/A

phildough
21-08-2012, 08:47 PM
I wouldn't remove the VICS butterflys as it will kill low down torque and high end power.

marcs_sp20
21-08-2012, 08:47 PM
Why not run a 626 IM, but then again it depends on where you want your power band to start I guess..

luk3333
21-08-2012, 08:53 PM
If i was ging to go no VICS I'd make up an aluminium manifold probably, but i dont really see the point. I'll just use stud lock or something on them and it should be safe. Pretty crazy that after 10 years and 200,000km 2 of 4 butterflys failed, and one screw could have ruin the motor and it dodged 4!

Mad Mat
21-08-2012, 08:55 PM
i have a IM with the bufferflys that are removed... if u want it its your..

luk3333
21-08-2012, 08:57 PM
Are you in sydney? If im out your way then ill shoot you a PM, but otherwise i can'tbe bothered making the trip. Thanks for the offer though :)

phildough
21-08-2012, 09:05 PM
Are you in sydney? If im out your way then ill shoot you a PM, but otherwise i can'tbe bothered making the trip. Thanks for the offer though :)

He isn't in Sydney but will be next week and I am driving down next Sunday so I could put it in the boot of the car.

Orion
21-08-2012, 09:18 PM
Also i know this has been mentioned before somewhere on this forum and it was decided it wouldn't work but Im sure that there's a possibility. FP pistons into FS giving more than 9.7CR? Considering both FP and FS have compression rations of 9.7 stock here in Australia, and both have the same bore but the FS has a longer stroke.

For the FS:
at BDC capacity is 2.0l
compression ratio is 9.7
Therefore at TDC capacity is .206l approx

For the FP
at BDC capacity is 1.8l
compression is 9.7
Therefore at TDC capacity is .185l approx

If the heads are the same (and they are, both have the same casting numbers on the side), then the different in TDC capacity must be made up in the pistons and/or rods (need to varify this). Looking at the FS pistong the have quite a deep dish and if the FP pistons have a shallower dish swapping them could yield a much higher compression ratio. Right? Just a thought guys :P

The European FP pistons are the same as the high compression JDM pistons (10.4:1). Not sure if that applies to the Aussie ones though :confused:

Ice88
21-08-2012, 11:09 PM
The European FP pistons are the same as the high compression JDM pistons (10.4:1). Not sure if that applies to the Aussie ones though :confused:

Heh was gonna post the same thing about the european pistons. The aussie FP engine is not 9.7:1 its 9.1:1 compression.

In regards to the carbon, soaking in brake fluid? or something was meant to loosen the carbon up. Saw it on M247.

Using FS Rods and FS pistons in an FP means that the piston clears the deck. Using an FS crank isnt an option either.

The FP block is 9.5mm shorter or so. The rods are different lengths 129.something in the FP and 135 in the FS.

If your thinking of getting a thinner head gasket and find somewhere let me know. The only place I know is in the states would love to bump compression by about half a point or so :)

luk3333
24-08-2012, 04:11 PM
Phil - If you could chuck it in the boot that would be good, i want to come down for the meet provided work allows.

Ice888, Orion - I checked the wrong column on protegeFAQ, you're right the aussie ones are only 9.1 :( I think that puts an end to that plan.

Ive now stripped all the valves and valve seals out, clean the head up and polished all the intake runners. Considering porting the exhaust, as they are considerably smaller than the intake runners and getting matched headers. I'll be looking into shaving the head as well now to increase compression, i wasn't going to if the piston swap worked...

luk3333
24-08-2012, 04:15 PM
Actually, just did a quick calculation, and the FP pistons with 9.1 would give a CR of 10.15 so it would still be worth doing it

Ice88
24-08-2012, 04:29 PM
Actually, just did a quick calculation, and the FP pistons with 9.1 would give a CR of 10.15 so it would still be worth doing it

No it wont. FP Pistons = FS pistons for us. Not sure on part numbers but in terms of CR itll be the same.

Remember decking the head/thinner head gaskets means that your effectively retarding the timing. If you deck the head two thousandths you'll throw timing out by about 2 degrees or so.

luk3333
24-08-2012, 05:40 PM
I went through it again and you are right. I assumed displacement included the volume of the head and gasket. I redid the calculations assuming the volumes of the head is approximately 80ml on top of the 1991ml (FS) and 1839ml (FP) and got that at TDC the FS is 213ml and the FP is 210ml.

In regards to the timing being retarded, couldn't i rectify that by advancing?

Ice88
24-08-2012, 06:19 PM
Yep. Just another factor to think about :)

luk3333
17-09-2012, 04:17 PM
Shortened the intake, setup a catch can and relocated the battery to the boot.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/82876395.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/9e8938ad.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/dc90d293.jpg
Will be carpeted sometime :P Used the sub wiring which made the job a lot easier.

So I've been reviewing my wheels/ fitment setup and I've come to realise it needs wideness in the tyre department so im on the look out for any 17x8 4x100 wheels. More offset + wide.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/48f955f5.jpg
Happy with the degree of camber though.

Head is currently on hold due to lack of funds/hsc/schoolies/rego. But i did find out atleast one screw went through the engine.. Only damage in one cylinder
How it looks
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/32b61ef7.jpg

How it should look
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/c5accdd4.jpg

Im not to fussed as the piston and cylinder appear to be unharmed and the head will be shaved and the indentations mostly removed. The FS block will go in next week with new oil seals, thermostat, and timing belt with the 1.8L's head. The stripped 2L head will remain on the bench until i can get cams, shaved and oil seals. Given up on the thinner head gasket idea, and just going to shave extra off. Working on a custom valve cover as well where the cam gears will be visible :P why? Because gears are cool.


If anyone is interested i have a couple of red and blue samco vacuum hose left over. I have some lengths cut to replace the PCV rubber hose, breather hose and the coolant reservoir hose, and the little hose on top of the reservoir as well(not pictured) if anyone is interested check the classifieds. Excuse the dirty engine bay :P
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/c05ca50a.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/0dc32a6b.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/d1cd2d2b.jpg

Ice88
18-09-2012, 07:26 AM
Would by any chance be able to take a picture of the trigger wheel showing the teeth or count them for me please (there should be 4 missing AFAIK)?

I have a sneaky feeling I've been misinformed about the number of teeth. If you cant or don't want to that's fine Ill count them the next time I see my fs-ze.

luk3333
18-09-2012, 08:47 AM
I would gladly take photo of it if i knew what it was :P

Ice88
18-09-2012, 12:07 PM
Its the wheel on the back of the crank pulley that tells the engine how fast the engine is currently running, with the inclusion of a sensor on the cam gear it allows the engine to know what the engines doing. (i.e. when cylinder 1 is reach top dead center, what rpm the engine is currently doing). (I don't need the cam gear, I know this part already)

Essentially the more teeth the greater the resolution, less teeth less resolution possible.

Here's a pic on a random engine:
http://www.britishv8.org/articles/Images-V15-2/BillJacobson-EA.jpg

JDM323
18-09-2012, 03:54 PM
fp-de has 4 teeth for the crank sensor, i'd assume fs-de + fs-ze would be the same, that's for bj-j48 at least

phildough
18-09-2012, 03:56 PM
My 1.8 ECU ran my FS-ZE with no issues so that means the sensors are the same between the FS-ZE and FP-DE.

luk3333
21-09-2012, 09:39 AM
yes they are both the same with four teeth

Ice88
21-09-2012, 10:49 AM
Yeah. Thanks guys, forgot to post my findings.

4 teeth, hall effect with the home trigger on the cam.

luk3333
24-09-2012, 07:06 PM
Started the swap yesterday

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/photo1_zps81de4111.jpg
Thats me sitting in the car :P
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/photo1-1_zps73902e71.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/photo2-1_zps04e25022.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/photo4_zpsb3b91172.jpg

So made a few mistakes, firstly tried to remove the engine after detaching it from the box, then realising it wouldn't fit out. THEN i couldn't get it back into the box. Had to remove all the engine mounts and squeeze the engine out and end up with the box lolling around. Lesson of the day: remove the box and engine as one :P I'll be lifting the box out and attaching it outside to the new engine outside the car.

Also realised I'll be needing a new clutch as i have to use an FP style one due to the F box. Also managed to tear a CV boot :(

Found something interesting:
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/photo2_zps99efd7c7.jpg
The FP has a 4-2-1 equal length head where as the FS has a 4-1 VERY un equal length header. The FP also doesn't have EGR and the FP manifold manifold isn't full of screws :P

I'm also considering an aircon/power steering deletion depending on how much it costs to get degassed and if i can use the power steering rack and just plug the fluid lines. Ideas?

TheMAN
24-09-2012, 07:13 PM
Started the swap yesterday

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/photo1_zps81de4111.jpg
nasty! both of you shagging that poor car both ways! :eek:

So made a few mistakes, firstly tried to remove the engine after detaching it from the box, then realising it wouldn't fit out. THEN i couldn't get it back into the box. Had to remove all the engine mounts and squeeze the engine out and end up with the box lolling around. Lesson of the day: remove the box and engine as one :P I'll be lifting the box out and attaching it outside to the new engine outside the car.
engine can come out with gearbox still in the car as long as you removed the belts, and the crank pulley!

Also realised I'll be needing a new clutch as i have to use an FP style one due to the F box. Also managed to tear a CV boot :(

DUH! on the clutch, how did you not know this? Common knowledge already on this forum due to phil's infamous swap! As for the boot, how the hell did you manage to do that? Didn't you swing the driver's side shaft out of the way and leave it hanging?
Found something interesting:
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/photo2_zps99efd7c7.jpg
The FP has a 4-2-1 equal length head where as the FS has a 4-1 VERY un equal length header. The FP also doesn't have EGR and the FP manifold manifold isn't full of screws :P

I'm also considering an aircon/power steering deletion depending on how much it costs to get degassed and if i can use the power steering rack and just plug the fluid lines. Ideas?
get it degassed? hahhaha... never heard of using the screw driver?
why do you want to do it? removing aircon isn't going to add power... you'll take 30kg off the car at most... the power steering? why bother? It'll make parking the car a real *****

luk3333
24-09-2012, 07:32 PM
Firstly, its a very lucky car :P

Second, no i didn't read that particular part of his build thread. Everyone said the F box worked with the FS, and using a G box was harder.

I would have removed the balancer, belts, etc but because i had already removed it from the box and couldn't get it back i wouldn't have been able to break the bolt on the crank. Don't ask how i broke the boot, it was dumb.

I thought it was really bad to release the gas into the atmosphere.. I do have a conscience. I figured removing it would hopefully make some difference in power/weight and engine bay neatness. Also wouldn't it help cool and there would be more air flowing through the rad core rather than the air hitting the condensor, warming up, and some of it being diverted around it.

smurfy
24-09-2012, 07:42 PM
your mate casually removing and engine in skinny jeans.. ahah :D

luk3333
24-09-2012, 07:44 PM
I was in jeans too :P they are now royally F****d

z100
24-09-2012, 08:22 PM
Credit to you for doing it yourself, I'm hopeless when it comes to that sort of stuff and the type of person who manages to break things (like CV boots).

luk3333
24-09-2012, 08:27 PM
Cheers :)

luk3333
05-12-2012, 06:30 PM
So its been a while since i last posted. The FS is now is a has about 2000kms under its belts (:P). Its running with a shaved head (.5mm off) giving it a CR of about 10.5. News rings, bearings, valve seals, oil seals, timing belt, clutch, plus its relatively new water pump. Very happy with the results, pulls much harder in all gears and from 4.5k rpm to 6 it is ridiculous compared to the FP.

I've also tinted the front indicators yellow, removed the stick bomb around the shifter and replaced it with carbon vinyl and swapped back to the Autoexe's at the front. Gave the car a wax and grabbed some photos with the trusty iPhone.

Now that it's all finished though I've decided it's time to start something new, so I'm selling it on. Looking for $5500ono including all the spares I have left at the time (injectors, rail, plugs, coil packs, springs, shocks, 2 very similar rims, oxygen sensors, cam gears, sump, 4x 8mm spacers... etc) If you need anything from this list, PM me :)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/IMG_1539.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/IMG_1540.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/IMG_1541.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/IMG_1542.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/IMG_1543.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/IMG_1544.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/luk3333/IMG_1546.jpg

Ice88
06-12-2012, 07:56 AM
http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/28400518.jpg

Bout sums it up really. Now you need another FS intake cam to repin, a nice header, exhaust, CAI, rear sway bar.

luk3333
07-12-2012, 03:45 PM
Never said i was finished :P Just looking for something different

luk3333
07-12-2012, 03:57 PM
well i did, but i meant the engine swap haha