Ba 1.8 exhaust?

[bRaDiNhO]

[color=#FF0000:post_uid0]Mal, if i remember, u once said something about the exhaust being pretty good on the BA and not needing to do much except for the muffler? True?
Either way, what diameter is it?
Other BA n/a owners (who are dissapearing to the turbos VERY quickly!) have u got extractors? How much diff did they make, especially low end dropout?

Cheers.[/color:post_uid0]

[BigMal]

[color=#000000:post_uid1]The stock exhaust is 2inch to the rear muffler and then
1&3/4 from the muffler. So if you replace just the rear
muffler section from the connector flange with a 2" one
you will get an increase and it will be much cheaper than
a cat back system. The only 45deg bends are over the
rear wheels which is after the flange so if you are worried
about the press bends and want mandrel then you can
do that. Less than 45deg there is little difference between
press and mandrel. A 1.8 with mild mods a 2" to 2&1/4
is all you need. I found that that plus an air filter and an
adjust of timing to accomodate premium was enough to
make the car noticeably more nimble. I think I paid $100
for the muffler and pipe and believe you get about 90% of
the gain you would with a cat back exhaust.

Hope this answers the question for you.

Regards

Mal
p.s This was all on the recomendation of my exhaust guy
and after fitting it agreed with him. Well spent $100.[/color:post_uid1]

[IZG-00D]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]i dont think a standard stock exhaust pipe is 2 inch as from what Hi-Tech and Tuffy Tone has told me before i got my exhaust, it was around 1.75 (close to 2 inch).
tuffy also advise that the less bends on the pipe the better (good for turbo cars).
i also got told recently that after market air filters (pods) are considered defects.
if you have the money for mandrel bends, great, but should stick to press bend as there is not alot of diff (mandrel is good for turbo cars).[/color:post_uid0]

[IZG-00D]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]BTW... i got my cannon 45 degree EZZY-Style muffler from Tuffy Tone and my current one at Hi-Tech[/color:post_uid0]

[Rupewrecht]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]or you could go for a slightly larger diameter press-bent exhaust system, and because of the press bends it will act like a smaller mandrel-bent system.[/color:post_uid0]

[BigMal]

[color=#000000:post_uid1]It has been ages since I looked at a stock system but I do
remember that the exhaust does taper down after the flange.
Thats the 1.75 section. *All I was saying with all this is that
after just replacing the rear section and muffler I got a
noticeable difference. *I am not saying that the stock system
is good nor saying that just replacing the back half is as good
as a full system. *What I am saying is that if you want to save
some dollars by replacing what I have said before you will
get most of the effect of upgrading from the cat back.
I raced Kelvin years ago and the only difference between us
was his tuffy cat back system against my rear only and it was
a dead heat. So for me there wasn't a point replacing the
rest. *You can always do it in 2 stages if you want.
Replace the back half with 2" or 2.25 and if not happy
replace the front half. *By keeping the flange you can do that.

Regards

Mal[/color:post_uid1]

[IZG-00D]

[color=#000000:post_uid0][quote:post_uid0="BigMal"]The stock exhaust is 2inch to the rear muffler and then
1&3/4 from the muffler.[/quote:post_uid0]
see previous quote... it's actually 1.75 inch all the way from the catalyctic...

about the run between you and kalvin, it really depends what type of muffler the both of you's have and the size of the exhaust pipe. kalvin having the sytem from the catalyctic converter back and you just the change of rear muffler. i'm sure the muffler helps alittle bit, specially the design of the muffler. i got told by mick last night that you said it doesnt... strange...
:;):[/color:post_uid0]

[BigMal]

[color=#000000:post_uid1]Chinese wispers there as I totally agree that design has a
difference as does size. Mostly in changing the effective
range where the motor makes its power. What I was saying
to mick was to go a baffled over a straight through for
better bottom end.

I will accept the 1.75 all the way through. My guy said to me 2" but not going to fight that tuffy said 1.75. The point thou
still remains that by changing the rear muffler only to a larger
muffler I got similar performance as Kelvin who was running
a 2.25 exhaust from the cat back. My $100 against his
lot more $$$ (I forgot how much) and the cars were as quick.
So in a N/A application the increase in size of the exhaust
does not make that much of a difference over changing
the muffler.

Regards

Mal[/color:post_uid1]

[bRaDiNhO]

[color=#FF0000:post_uid0]I'm lost, but I think i get the general jist of it. at least 1.75" all the way through. Mentioning Mick just totally threw me off. :(

Anyway, its my bros car not mine.

Peter, what u said about pod filters is true, they can be defected. Load of bulls**t but it happens. And if u are insured with NRMA they have voided warranties as it can be classified as an unauthorised engine mod. Which is why i'll stick with a better panel filter at least while ive got an n/a car. Havent seen any proof that the increased airflow from a pod filter makes any difference over a better panel either in n/a form.

Cheers guys.

Brad[/color:post_uid0]

[MrShadow]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]That's interesting what you say about the pod filters and NRMA, cause I phoned em to check on getting some work done (exhaust, intake (n/a) and lowered), and they said as long as I didn't turbo it, and the exhaust and suspension met certain requirements, it wouldn't affect (or effect??) my insurance. I'll admit I haven't new car under warranty, but it's still interesting. Just as well I didn't decide to go with the pod filter. ???[/color:post_uid0]

[BigBoyLemonade]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]yeah I guy in sydney from the ACT got defected for his pod filter, they are meant to be be illegal now... I know they arent in the ACT. Im guessing if you had a engineering certificate it wouldnt matter... thats pretty ****ed up though... the law came in like 3 week ago supposely[/color:post_uid0]

[IZG-00D]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]insurance company is a diff story. you mite void their policy if you have gone to extreme mods to the engine. RTA can and will book you for a defect. pod filter cause alot of air coming in your engine and alot of carbon monoxide coming out of the exhaust which australia is very stricked about when it comes to environment. this will definitely give you a defect if RTA sees this.
i got one 2 years ago at parramatta, that's when i had my cannon muffler. so i had to remove the K&N and the Tuffy muffler of plus pay a defect.
i would go for the panel as that takes cold air in the inlet whereas a pod sucks the hot air produce by the engine bay (unless you have a turbo which pod is perfect for).[/color:post_uid0]

[pr1mo]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]i agree pete. for NA cars the panel filter is a much more sensible option. especially with this 'anti pod' law having just come into effect.

I have recently adjusted the pipe leading from my airbox to a better position on my front bar and have noticed a drop on my temprature guage too :P

on this note what is everyones thoughts on having a small gap between the hole @ the bottom of the airbox and the induction pipe?


cheers mike[/color:post_uid0]

[IZG-00D]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]i wouldn't have a clue.
best thing to do for fresh cold air induction is to remove the bonnet and the front bar while driving.

now that's what i call serious cold air induction. :D

when it's cold at night, i would pop up the bonnet while im driving. :D :D[/color:post_uid0]

[BigBoyLemonade]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]dont drive too fast then pete with the bonnet open.. I saw someone on the hume hwy's bonnet come off cause he lifted it...

in theory the panel filter is better for performance cause the hot air from the engine bay doesnt get in the induction..

The ideal thing it to have a pod filter with shielding around it or inside a airbox and then the cold air is feed from the front bar.[/color:post_uid0]

[IZG-00D]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]yeh, i dont. but i would really love to just take off the bonnet and drive at night when it's cool whether[/color:post_uid0]

[sik astina]

[color=#0000FF:post_uid4]why dont you cut holes in your bonnet like how eric had it on ezzy along time ago ???

[img:post_uid4]http://www.astinagt.com/images/lantis/lantis30.jpg[/img:post_uid4]


-Mick[/color:post_uid4]

[EZZY]

[color=#000080:post_uid0]mick, where did you get that pic from?
i dont even have that myself. not now anyway..... after trhe virus attack!
that thing was good at getting rid of underbonnet hotair, but the water get through when it rains, make the engine bay somewhat stained.
i wouldnt recommend that though, as it will give the cops another reason to pull you over.
i'd go panel filter with a cold air intake from underneath the airbox.[/color:post_uid0]

[IZG-00D]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]was about to say that eric. very nice design but yeh, when it starts raining (DAMN).[/color:post_uid0]

[sik astina]

[color=#0000FF:post_uid5]i got that pic from this site. look in the photo section and its there.

-Mick[/color:post_uid5]

[EZZY]

[color=#000080:post_uid0]oh okay. thanks mick![/color:post_uid0]

[BigMal]

[color=#000000:post_uid1]To reduce under bonnet tempretures remove the rubber
strips at the front and back of the bonnet. This will
allow air to pass through.

Regards

Mal[/color:post_uid1]

[Toyboy]

[color=#000000:post_uid4]People are winging that having a pod filter is bad cause of the hot air it sucks in the engine bay ??? Do what i did,and make a custom air box around it with a big CAI pipe feeding straight to it from underneath :;): Problem solved :p

Catch ya :)[/color:post_uid4]