Descent speakers - Anyone know anything to replace stock?

[Sandyman]

[color=#FF0000:post_uid0]would anybody know about any descent speakers that could replace the stock speakers(front and rear) that are not to much cost, and without TOO much work and stuffing round?[/color:post_uid0]

[sik astina]

[color=#0000FF:post_uid5]just go to your local audio shop and ask for replacement speakers. the front are 5x7 and the rear are 6" or 6 1/2" (not too sure about the rear ones size) otherwise, just take one rear one out and take it with you.


-Mick[/color:post_uid5]

[Sandyman]

[color=#FF0000:post_uid0]any particular brands?[/color:post_uid0]

[MrShadow]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]G'Day Sandy,
*You've got the Hardtop (96)? *If so, rears are 6x9, front 7x5. *I've got JBL GTO series - kick arse. *7x5 are about $140, the 6x9 about $180 (I think, don't quote me).

Catch Ya

Edit: Oh, yeah, getting the rear speakers out is blast. *See my previous topic re: Help!!!! in the Audio section. *It'll give you detailed instructions. *You don't need to follow all of them though.[/color:post_uid0]

[MrShadow]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]Oh, yeah, audio shops will try and tell you that you aint got 6x9, as none of the books list the Hardtop!!! SO they go by the hatch/Protege that both got 6 inch.[/color:post_uid0]

[sik astina]

[color=#0000FF:post_uid0]:O i think hes sis has a hatch :D look at his Signature :;):[/color:post_uid0]

[astina]

[color=#32CD32:post_uid0]um ive got 6 1/2" splits front and rear.
the tweeter in the front is mounted up on the top of the door and in the back its next to the speaker.
oh yeah ive phoenix gold in the front and clarion in the back.[/color:post_uid0]

[MrShadow]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]Well, spank my arse and call me Charlie!
Thanks for pointing it out, mabey next time I should read the signature berfore posting. I thought Sandyman had a Hardtop..., oh well, :p[/color:post_uid0]

[chuky]

[color=#FF0000:post_uid0]hey astina... just wondering about a few things in your set up cos i was thinking about doing the something similar...

did you have much reworking to get the 6 1/2" into the front doors?

do you use seperate crossovers and if so do you use some kind of external amp?

and finally, are your speakers in the back still mounted in the stock (door) position?? i ask this cos i was thinking of leaving out the rear door speakers and putting a good set of 6x9's on the rear parcel shelf..

any advice on this would be appreciated...[/color:post_uid0]

[Sandyman]

[color=#FF0000:post_uid0]mr shadow ya dumbarse :p

its a hatch.

hey everyone, hows this for a setup: very thick/strong perspex going from the top of the back of the rear seats to the sides to the very back of the boot, with 2 12", or 15"(if you find some) square subs, and amps under the perspex. all you have to do to stuff round wiv the subs is sit in the back seat and pull down the back of it.

i know it isn't that realistic, but still..[/color:post_uid0]

[Asterix]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]I'm not at all an audiophile, but the usual stores like JB & Hi-Fi Supermarket seel the mainstream stuff.
I have listen to the 3 & 4 way Pioneers, Kenwoods, Phillips, MTX & Sony & would have to say their Infinity 6x9 "2 ways" blitzed them. Kenwood or Sony had a pair for around $330 which were not as crisp & with "in-ya-face" styling.
I bought the 2nd last pair at Ringwood HFS for $140. They originally sold for around $279.
I could tell much diff between the 2 & 3 ways, except the 3's sounded a little trebley.
I once had Pioneer 6 x 9" 4 ways & they were tinny as ****.[/color:post_uid0]

[mrpayner]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]For factory spots, replacing factory speakers; Fusion and JBL both have 5x7 speakers in their ranges. I'm sure there are a few other companies, but i don't who they are.

And for the back, 6½" whatevers!! Splits, Co-ax. Bear in mind though that the back speakers are for "Rear-Fill", so they're not as important as the Front Sound Stage.

Critter can elaborate on this, or pop over to the CAA forums.

Adam[/color:post_uid0]

[Sandyman]

ok, this topic seems to be a long time ago...

anyway, replaced rears with 6" kenwoods (nice speakers). had to butcher the speaker bracket a little :evil: .

still looking at front speakers. whats the price range on those jbl or fusion 5x7's adam?

[MrShadow]

Yo, Sandy, long time no hear. Wassup dude? Anyways' just had the jbl's installed in the front doors, totaly kick-ass, and with the deadening, awsome!!! They've stopped that particular model, but they'll be bringin out new 5x7's soon. Price was about $140 for the speakers, used about $20 worth of sound deadening material (I checked the invoice, wasn't $40). Whenever you're up at skating, look out for my car and I'll give you a listen. (red Hardtop, AstinaGT sticker, and if you look closely, you can see the jbls in the rear window).

Ciao

[mrpayner]

whats the price range on those jbl or fusion 5x7's adam?

Yeh, not too sure mate.... Boston Acoustics actually do a 5x7 split speaker package.. Chris had these in the SP20 before he upgraded. He has informed me that they were quite suitable for the Astina.. Definately a crisp sound from the tweets.. I'm going to be looking into these when I am doing the stereo..

Adam

This is my 700th post!! Woohoo!!!

[Toyboy]

I have the boston acoustics 3way 5x7inch speakers in my car,and they sound pretty good,1 day ill upgrade to the splits :P

[Sandyman]

thanks shadow, its good to be back. was quite busy these last few weeks. now i got 3 weeks holidays, and i am going to try to defy the temptation and keep my posting to a minimum to avoid confrontation with brad, mal and jynx. oh, and sehnkahn too.

and shadow, it don't look like i'm going to be at skating much this year. too much work to do and i didn't end up doing ice hockey; difficulty concerning costs, time, etc. theres always next year. I passed the development squad though! so don't go thinking i'm crap :lol:. I'll take you anytime anywhere! :P

ok, sound lesson i have learned(for other not-so-experienced):

1. NEVER SKIMP ON SPEAKERS (it will cost you more in the long or even short run) - dad got my sis some 'dodgy' speakers for her laser. NEVER SKIMP. They're those dodgy venus ones. completely not worth the price paid.

2. Stick with the well known brands (pioneer, kenwod, and anything better if you can afford it) - will save money in long run. you won't find so much fault with these known brands.

ok adam, could you explain 'splits/co-ax'? I intend to become an audio junkie, and i need to learn the basics before i can get to any high level of understanding.

[Cosmo Dude]

I'm no audiophile (audio junkie),
When it comes to Amps, they are (or historicaly) measured in RMS watts.
Speakers are measured in P-P Watts. (peak to peak)
(Correct me if I'm wrong) 1 P-P =.71??? RMS
This would translate to a 100 watt amp needing 150 watt speakers to work best.

Why go to this detail?

When you intend building up a system you should get a plan and stick to it. 150watt speakers sound like crap on a 25 watt amp, not enough grunt to do the job well.

Rod


P.S. I don't get paid on commission like the person in the shop with the smooth smile :roll:

[cgunther]

Most answers I've seen to this kind of conversion go along the lines of:
"You can't convert a made up figure(W) into a real figure(WRMS)"
Manufacturers make up bullsh*t figures to make their products look better.

Speakers are measured in P-P Watts. (peak to peak)
(Correct me if I'm wrong) 1 P-P =.71??? RMS

[Cosmo Dude]

Most answers I've seen to this kind of conversion go along the lines of:
"You can't convert a made up figure(W) into a real figure(WRMS)"
Manufacturers make up bullsh*t figures to make their products look better.

Speakers are measured in P-P Watts. (peak to peak)
(Correct me if I'm wrong) 1 P-P =.71??? RMS

Agreed, WTF is peak music power? I've heard 30 watt RMS systems that have better clarity and more power than 200 watts PMP.

Rod

[submersiblepotato]

Hey ppl,

I have a pretty good audio and electrical background (i think..) and you guys are pretty well on the mark. PMPO or "peak music power output" is a useless figure and is generally only advertised on lower budget systems. Continuous Watts RMS "root mean squared" are the ones you want to look at. Yes 35 Watt RMS high current amps can sound better than 100 Watt RMS amps. Most of my experience is in home theatre and Yamaha are an excellent example of low(er) RMS amps with high current, yet they will out perform so called 150 Watt RMS amps because they CAN do true 35 Watts RMS continous without clipping and distortion. Speakers also are advertised with bogas power ratings. So called 600 Watt subs will have a different figure in small print called the "nominal power handling". Match this to your amplifiers true continuous RMS power and you are on a winner. My 10' infinity kappa is 90 Watts nominal power handling but is quite efficient (95 dB/W) and therfore makes alot of sound with the power that it gets. Low efficiency speakes (eg anything below 90 dB/W @ 1m) need more power to make the same ammount of noise but have greater accuracy in producing the sound. A 96 dB/W speaker will sound twice as loud as a 93 dB/W one given the same ammount of power.

Hope this answers a few questions..

cya

Sub

[submersiblepotato]

I'm not sure of the exact PMPO conversion but to convert Peak to Peak power to RMS...

First divide by two (pretty big difference already)

Then times it my 0.707 to get an RMS figure...

"Numbers are fun !"

ciao

Sub

[Memphis]

dunno if this will help at all but my stats for my VDO's are:

Specification:
Max. Power Watts 300
Nominal Power Watts 150
Sensitivity dB/1W/m 91

[Cosmo Dude]

Oh, yeah, audio shops will try and tell you that you aint got 6x9, as none of the books list the Hardtop!!! *SO they go by the hatch/Protege that both got 6 inch.

You aint whistling dixie :!:
Took me about five minutes to convince the sales dude that the rears are 6x9 and on the parcel shelf. As I was leaving with my 6x9s he asked that I keep the packaging in good nick as I may need to return them.

The speakers were installed and working and car back together 90 minutes later.

Rod

[mrpayner]

Heh, did you take the car back to him and slap him over the head saying "See ********!! The customer is always right!" :lol:

Adam

[Cosmo Dude]

Heh, did you take the car back to him and slap him over the head saying "See ********!! The customer is always right!" :lol:

Adam

No, I'll go back to get the fronts in a few weeks. He most likely believed the catalogues, the shop guy is not to blame. I'm right tho :D

[SehnKhan]

keep my posting to a minimum to avoid confrontation with brad, mal and jynx. oh, and sehnkahn too.

I intend to become an audio junkie, and i need to learn the basics before i can get to any high level of understanding.

#1: It's not that we have big issues, it's just you post alot of crap.
#2: if you want to become somewhat of an audiophile, clock on over to www.caraudioaustralia.com for some ideas.

[Dogo]

Its a good point submersiblepotato made, and I still find a lot of ppl i talk to are fooled into thinking watts are that big of a deal in amps. Sure they're important, but if you want good sound choose quality over output.

If you look at a lot of the very high-end speaker amps, they're possibly only putting out abt 50-150w RMS. But they'll be louder and sound a sh*t load better than a kenwood 600w RMS amp. They'll take a handle more volume before distorting too.

But it depends on the purpose of the amp and the speakers it'll run. For example a sub needs plenty of oomf behind it, but a pair of 6" splits wont.

Also, its really good to look at the other specs for the amp too such as noise level. Coz i HATE noise :wink: And Im still pulling my car apart fairly regularly coz i hear a faint hiss or engine whine in there somewhere.


could you explain 'splits/co-ax'?

They both refer to a speaker setup design which usually incorporates a driver and a tweeter. Most often 2 speakers, sometimes more. Coaxial speakers are used to save space and contain the sound from a single source. Basically the tweet is mounted in the middle of the driver's cone - and splits have them as seperate speakers mounted seperately in the car. Common opinion is that its still 'best' to have them as close as possibly still. ( eg next to each other ). Personally I dont like that, i like a raised high freq so mine are higher in the car ( at window height ) and the driver is at the bottom of the door.

Splits are better. Theres no arguing that. The choice really is the extra price and its a little bit harder to install. Also, the tweets will run off a crossover which 'extracts' the higher frequencies.

[mrpayner]

I guess we should also point out that PMPO [Peak Music Power Output] is achievable for only a poofteenth of a second as well, if that. As stated before RMS is continous power and therefore better..

I have a high end home hi-fi amplifier that pumps out 50w RMS per channel, I can play that as loud as you hear in clubs from my speakers and it sounds a lot better as there is no distortion and you don't get that ringing noise in your ears when you leave or turn the volume down. Ringing ears are bad by the way as if you listen to music like that too much or you're exposed to that high level of "noise" for extended periods the little "feelers" in your ears that sense sound will actually lay down and in effect die. Thus the ringing will be constant, or worse, you'll go deaf.

Adam

[Rupewrecht]

Ringing ears are bad by the way as if you listen to music like that too much or you're exposed to that high level of "noise" for extended periods the little "feelers" in your ears that sense sound will actually lay down and in effect die. Thus the ringing will be constant, or worse, you'll go deaf.

Welcome to the world of industrial deafness

So in other words, i'm not ignoring you, i just have trouble hearing voice tones when there's lots of background noise or more importantly, music :shock: :P :(

[Toyboy]

Yeah well my ears are stuffed and constantly ring and im only 27 :cry: And i can tell ya now its not a good thing,its F**king anoying :evil:
So dont go overboard peeps :wink:

[MrShadow]

Well, my ears ring, and I'm not big on loud music or clubbing. I do, however, fly frequently ins mall aircraft. And even head phones, it's bloody loud. Bummer.

[mrpayner]

For those who are researching car speakers at the moment.. I've just been in touch with Gary from "Gary's Car Radio" [Ph: 03 9459 8522 Head offie at Heidelberg] in the city.. Alpine have released a 5x7 Type-R speaker into their new lines that have just been released.. They're 2-way coax speakers.. And you can find them on the http://www.alpine-usa.com website as the Australian website hasn't been updated yet.. Gary wasn't sure of the price but he said they weren't going to break the bank. I'm going to have a look at them when I pick my new Alpine CDA-9813 headunit up from the Preston branch in a few weeks..

Adam

[Sandyman]

ok, to be frank, anything that clearly states "alpine" is probably automatically above the budget, but thanks anyway. maybe when i'm older and looking for some high quality sound.

reading some of your posts about sound is making my head hurt. that or hitting myself in the head with a shovel. I won't be able to listen to a sub for a few weeks:(.

Speaking of subs, I've recently heard that something quite large (eg kicker 750 WRMS 15' square sub) is generally useless in a car, as the sheer power makes the car vibrate too much causing poor quality sound. If somebody can confirm this, I will probably be convincedto get a couple of 12' JBL subs instead(in about 5-10 years of coarse)

[Dogo]

vibrations are vibrations regardless of the source.

if you got ur 2 x 12"s to play the same note at the same volume as a single 15" , which is quite possible. it would have the same power and vibrate the car just as much. the difference between the two is where the waves overlap on the 12s you would have an amplified 'vibration' and if this was at a part of the car, it would take a fair beating.

frankly I always think that good sound comes from a single source. adding more speakers just makes a mess. This is something that I've been playing around with. ( if any1 remembers my old custom back shelf ).

So if u want good bass, in my opinion get a single good quality sub and back it up with an amp of equal quality. hopefully, you'll never have the sub at a level where it vibrates the car that much ( ouch! ), and if it does, deaden the car !!

Dave

[submersiblepotato]

i could not agree more.......