Supercharger - Mmmmmmm

[MrShadow]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]G'Day,
Can't find the old topic, so...

ANyway, was talking to a friend yesterday, used to work for mazda. Says he has a supercharger from a Eunos 800 "lying around". I wonder if I should offer to buy it off him??? :D


Oh, yeah, remeber I asked about a knocking sound when braking and turning? Well, whoever said caliper pins was correct. They develop a little ridge, and the calipers stick on it for a bit, then let go and "knock". Mazda have brought out a modified caliper pin, but it's an expensive repair, so I'm going to live with it. Besides, the Gosford (and/or Wyong) dealers only keep the origianl ones in stock, go figure ???[/color:post_uid0]

[BigMal]

[color=#000000:post_uid1]How much is expensive anyway ??

Ta

Mal[/color:post_uid1]

[BigMal]

[color=#000000:post_uid1]I think you will find the Miller Blower sits in between
the V of the motor making it hard to bolt to anything
else bar a miller motor.
Your mate can tell you straight anyway.

Mal[/color:post_uid1]

[MrShadow]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]He didn't say.... but he drops in on a fairly regular basis. But I guess not as expensive as getting the supercharger fitted. Oh, and apparantly the main difference between the BP and the BPT is the pistons (as well as compression). So, if you're running low boost levels, you may not need to do an engine transplant. I'd still feel safer with a BPT though...[/color:post_uid0]

[BigMal]

[color=#000000:post_uid1]The BPT is the most economical way of doing the conversion.
You get a motor already with lowered compression pistons,
beefier rods, larger injectors and turbo oil lines etc for
about $300 - $400 more than just buying the turbo and
manifold.

Unless you plan on rebuilding the motor for real high
performance and need aftermarket rods, forged pistons
etc it is the only real way to go.

regards

Mal[/color:post_uid1]



Edited By BigMal on 1040388469

[MrShadow]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]Yeah, I agree Mal, I'd still go the BPT way, I still might check out the Supercharger, see if it can be bolted on anywhere....[/color:post_uid0]

[BigBoyLemonade]

[color=#006666:post_uid0]Check your wheel nuts... they are most likely loose... the heat and hard acceleration and braking can make them loosen slightly..

Everytime I have had a noise like that I have just tightened the wheels and it was fine..[/color:post_uid0]

[MrShadow]

[color=#000000:post_uid0]Well, unless the tyer place has a bunch of dropkicks working for them, it aint that. I've had the car in for tyres twice (once for fronts, other time for rear), so I hope they'd have tightened the nuts!!! I'll check it anyway.[/color:post_uid0]

[BigMal]

just bringing up an old topic. Found this on fordlaser. Theis is from the guy that owns the car I saw in Zoom years ago with a blower above the gearbox. Here is how he did it.

There is no easy way to keep the clutch.

The only place the SC14 blower would fit is down in front of the gearbox. After you have removed the clutch, the bare blower shaft passes beneath the front engine mount. You then extend the shaft parallel with the sump, and make a bearing support at the other end. A couple of toothed pulleys and you are in business.

The best way to extend the blower shaft is to fit a small sprocket to the blower, and an identical small sprocket to the extension shaft. Wrap a length of duplex chain around both sprockets to make a chain coupler. This allows a bit of misalignment, is very strong, and very compact. It must be compact, because it sits right directly under the front engine mount and there is not much room down there.

One of the mounting ears at the front of the blower aligns perfectly with a large gearbox bolt, so a slightly longer bolt rigidly fixes the front of the blower to the gearbox in exactly the right position. My gearbox is an Australian delivered TX3 4WD (B6T), I don't know if other boxes have the exact same bolt in the same position ?

The end of the gearbox has a light pressed steel cover that you remove. The flange where this bolts, has a series of tapped 6mm holes. The rear gear cover of the blower also has a series of 6mm bolts which you remove.

As the blower and gearbox flanges are EXACTLY in line, you carefully cut out a 3mm flat steel diaphragm plate that bolts onto both gearbox and blower, and replace the gearbox cover over the plate. It is totally rigid, and it does not leak gearbox oil.

I have not had any problems with this mounting method, and there is simply no room to put it anywhere else. But it also has the advantage that when you fit the turbo, nothing gets in the way. I do not have airconditioning, but the blower drive shaft should pass beneath the stock airconditioning compressor, but cannot say for sure that it will.


Regards

Mal