View Full Version : Wheel Bearing Replacement

01-07-2003, 12:38 PM
Hi all,

Here is a pretty pic of $211 worth of Genuine Ford non-noisy front wheel bearings for my poor little baby. Don't quite know if I'm happy or not about the Ford-ness of them but that's the way they come....


Have another oil seal as well but didn't include it in the photo BTW.

Has anyone replaced their wheel bearings before or anyone know how hard it is going to be?

General Procedure or things to look out for?

Will be changing them with a mate who is a mechanic with the Army but he hasn't done anything on front wheel drive cars before and neither have I which is a little disconcerting.

Help anyone! :(

01-07-2003, 12:56 PM
Genuine Ford non-noisy front wheel bearings

Mazda and ford parts all come from the same parts warehouse! :)

but sorry, can't help :(

Cosmo Dude
01-07-2003, 04:43 PM
I'll send some info through to Penrod to post. Hope it is enough for you and your mechanic mate (I'll even try to send through the torque settings)


07-07-2003, 09:43 AM
Well, the wheel bearing replacement didn't go quite as planned you might say. I went over to my mate's place on Friday afternoon to start work early on pulling the whole thing apart. Down to the hub on both sides cam apart really easily and didn't have any troubles at all......

And then while trying to undo the nut on the hub we broke the socket handle! Before you ask, yes we did knock out the tab on the nut so that it would turn.
We rang another mate who works at a garage and then borrowed his 3/4" socket handle and socket to undo this little f**ker.
"I've had this for 12 and a half years and haven't broken it" was the comment "so you should be right"
Bzzzzt, Wrong. Busted that one too so will go to the garage next weekend and use their rattle gun to attack this little b!tch. :( :x
Broken Bar #1
Broken Bar #2
Broken Bar #2 Again.

Poo-Bum-Wee. :cry:

07-07-2003, 11:20 AM
Thats nasty,1 tuff little hub nut ya have there :P

07-07-2003, 12:11 PM
Spray WD40 or equivelant on it let is sit for 2 hours with constant spraying... then try..

if that doesnt work try and warm the nut up a tad...not too much just a little

Just gotta break the seal... Its a virgin remember

07-07-2003, 12:39 PM
Maybe it needs some KY Jelly then tony,works a treat for those virgin parts :lol:

Cosmo Dude
07-07-2003, 06:22 PM
10 points for style, I'm proud of your tenacity (they don't call'm breaker bars for nothing).
May be a good idea to invest in a hex socket of the correct size (one with only the six sides), could be the next weakest link.


P.S. they do come off. I've had my CVs replaced since my Canberra trip, they used a rattle gun.

08-07-2003, 02:19 AM
I had my front wheel bearings done by Southern Automotive in Tuggeranong. Didn't cost alot, and since you have them, will cost even less. Plus they are great guys, quality service. I get all my work done there. But i understand if you want to do it yourself to save money, or for the experience :)

Failing taking the car to a shop, i take it to a mate of mine whom has a plethora of bars/sockets/nuts and a rattle gun :) He'll get anything apart :)

08-07-2003, 08:04 AM
lol @ Toyboy!

When we told Toby's mate that we broke his breaker bar he pissed himself laughing! He said that apparently its a fairly common problem with Mazda front wheel drives that the nut siezes itself onto the shaft and can be a real pain to get off. Next step is the rattle gun which should give it what for. Both nuts have had WD40 sprayed on them so that should work its way in there during the week hopefully.

The next problem will be getting the hub out so that we can press out the bearing. Sometimes (from what I understand anyway) if they can't get the axel to come out of the hub they undoo the nut a little bit and then take the car for a drive until the axel pops in the hub and then drive it very gingerly back to the shop to take it apart. If that doesn't work they have to take the whole assembly drive shaft and all out of the car and then put it all in a press to take it out! EEK!

Should be fun though. :) Can't wait 'till Wakefield Park after I have them fixed! 8)

18-07-2003, 05:51 PM
Replacing my wheel bearing was simple-as.

1) Take to mechanic
2) Pickup from mechanic
3) (This is the hard bit) Pay mechanic!

Although he did say that that nut was bitch to remove on Mazdas, so good luck!

Oh, and loved those piccies of the busted bars...

Cosmo Dude
18-07-2003, 06:46 PM
Are the V6 berrings the same as the 4?


21-07-2003, 08:55 AM
I don't think so. I do remember specifically asking for the wheel bearings for the V6 but don't know if they are the same as the 4 or not.

After replacing them last weekend all I can advise for people thinking about doing this themselves - don't even bother. This is definately not a job to do in the garage in an afternoon.

The amount of bullsh!t pullers and pushers and weird funky tools that Dougie was pulling out of boxes down the back of his workshop was just amazing. My mate Toby (who's a mechanic with Defence) and I were asking what the hell is that on many more than one occasion. The other comment we said a lot was "there's no way we would have done this in your garage".

I didn't take many photos because we were too busy working. Took two of us about 2.5 hours with bits here and there with Dougie helping and doing bits and pieces here and there (like using the hydraulic press).

One of Dougie's bullsh!t pullers and Toby using a monster sized Nut Fu*ker.

The car is all back together now, and with the addition of a steering tie-rod end (another $97) that was bent and a wheel alignment the car is tip top and running like a dream!

30-12-2003, 06:32 PM
Did your bearings start grinding. I ave developed a grind when driving and trying
to tell the diff between brake pads over Bearings. Is wierd sometimes will go away
for a while after a hard brake leading me to think pads and the other times sound
is there whilst breaking making me think bearing. Sound is like a constant knife
against a sharpening block sound.



31-12-2003, 10:33 AM
Hi Mal,

hmmmm, sounds like pads to me. Bearing noise was fine on straight road but started only when car loaded up around a corner and was more of a quick repetitive thudding sound than a grinding one.
Deteriorated to happening when driving straight as well by the end both cruising and under braking.
In any case, checking the pads for wear is pretty easy anyway. :)

Lemme know how it turns out.


31-12-2003, 05:32 PM
Yeah I think its Pads. Checked them last night and they are worn. Also lifted
the wheels and twisted and no play so dont think its bearings. What scared me
was how fast the noise got from just a light noise to now where its a real grinding
sound all since the weekend. Anybody seen cheaper for Bendix Ultimate than $99
let me know.



15-01-2004, 04:34 PM
Hey everyone,

need to replace my bearings too, can anyone tell me how much it costs approx to get new ones and how much the labour costs aswell. So how much for that?


15-01-2004, 08:02 PM
hey mal sum cars have wear lugs on there pads to stop you wearing them down to the metal

its a peice off metal on the pad an when u wear down to this sucker it makes a bloody horrible niose u can imagine tin on steel

16-01-2004, 02:09 PM
Yeah they were Bendix Ultimates and do have the little tab on
the inside pad which is the one that wears the most. Changed
them no probs last week only an hour to replace. If I can fix
my vacuum leak this weekend will have a nice zippy car agin that
brakes well as good as goes :)


16-01-2004, 06:26 PM
cool good news
be good to see u on another cruise

21-01-2004, 04:58 PM
hey guys h0w much does it cost to get the wheel bearings changed?

21-01-2004, 05:00 PM
Hey mate,

Mine are in the garage getting changed, i pick it up in the moring so i'll let you know how much it costs. I got after market bearings which are alot cheaper than the mazda ones.


22-01-2004, 11:58 AM
Hey mate,

Got my car back today, very pissed off though. The mechanic quoted me $110 labour but forgot to mention that this is for each wheel. I also asked him for cheap after market bearings and the ones he got were 120 each. i had to replace the front 2 wheel bearings so this brings the total to 460. Futher more the asshole decided he can change my oil and charge me another $40 when the oil he is changing has just been put in. Its a joke, not ever using that guy again!


22-01-2004, 12:24 PM
I have 1 genuine Ford/mazda bearing for a V6 astina which I never got round to putting in. Pm me if you wanna buy it

22-01-2004, 01:40 PM
You weren't going to replace both at the same time you cheapskate :)


22-01-2004, 03:13 PM
nope why? if it aint broke why fix it. Doesnt save me any money to get both fixed at the same time.

23-01-2004, 08:35 AM
So you'd wait six months to go through the hassle of having the second one replaced when its gone? You're a very odd man T. :?

Cosmo Dude
23-01-2004, 09:42 AM
But he didn't need to in the end :D so saved some work ;)

I agree with ABC. As I found out with my CVs the loud noise from the left was masking the not quite as loud noise from the right. Both wheel bearings have equal usage and when one goes the other shouldn't be too far behind.

Mr MX6
02-02-2004, 06:24 PM
You know I figured it cheaper and easier to just remove the hubs and get a low K set from a scrappy.. (~180 bux a set) the hub comes of easy enough but realistically you need a hydraulic /pneumatic press to get the bearings out..
that lug nut can be a BITCH.. but nothing an oxy torch cant fix.. .

03-02-2004, 07:15 AM
Who said the second one was going?

and yes it saved me a lot of work actually :D

03-02-2004, 09:19 AM
Different theories I guess:

If it aint broke don't fix it
If one's gone, the other isn't far behind it

03-02-2004, 10:58 AM
If one's gone, the other isn't far behind it

or is it?

03-02-2004, 02:57 PM
If one's gone, the other isn't far behind it

or is it?

Depends on what you're talking about....
If its a left and right shock absorber that's done 200,000kms then I'd say yes,
but on the other hand if its the front and rear rocker cover seals on a V6 that's done 100,000kms then perhaps not.

Symmetric parts would tend to have symmetric wear don't you think?

Do you replace both wiper blades when one is gone or just the one?