the (in)complete restoration.
 

as requested by Ben!

this will be the hive of activity in the coming months - pending $$$ and work hours.


A picture after getting the clutch sorted - sort of... still needs to be fully bled as theres still heaps of air (as i discovered 1/2way up the street lol!) in the lines =no clutch!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/FILE0073.jpg

looks good from that angle (call it a Marc shot) :p
So far:
wednesday: i saw the car on ebay
Thursday: i went to look at the car.
yesterday i Bid and won the car.
today: i drove and got the car. i also bypassed the critical parts of the car alarm to make it go. then after being all excited it worked, the clutch cyclinder is gone.
Tomorrow: go to repco, buy o ring seals, rocker cover seals, new slave/master cyclinders. fix the problems. remove bloody car alarm and make it respectible. find out why the cig lighter socket is missing yet has cigs in the ash tray (YUCK!) and the barrel on the floor. also collect the $10+ in coins on the floor. give it a good clean and stick something nice-smelling into it. then if i could be bothered start pulling the back end apart and seeing what needs replacing.

future plans:

v6 brakes- Purchased and almost installed
BP-T
g series box purchased
LSD
rear tail lights -purchased
painted beaver panel
short shifter -purchased
gear boot/knob -purchased
MS seats in White. -purchased
retrim door cards in white.
new steering wheel purchased
respray white
skirts, spoiler (added for free :p) and front lip.
new wheels in black.
EL dials -Installed
chrome door handles inside -to be transferred from exsiting car
polished sills. - to be transferred from existing car
front/rear strut braces- purcahsed rear, front from existing car
new suspension -purchased
rear swaybar -to be transferred from existing car
new bushes throughout. -started
good sound system.
GOOD alarm which is actually hard to disable.
darker tint.
AGT sticker! -purchased
custom sub box. -purchased supplies
ARC intake box- if it fits with the turbo gear.
rain/wind deflectors.
personalised plates in white/black.
timeframe: 18months.
budget: 10k. (including sale of my current car)



A more detailed list of parts I've replaced or Bought already- and waiting for rego, simply for my benefit


Engine:
New 10-40W Penrite +ryco filter
New Rocker Cover Gasket
New Dizzy O-Ring
New copper (std) Spark Plugs
New Intake Pipe
New O2 Sensor
New Fuel Filter
Injector Cleaner



Brakes: v6 assemblies painted in HT gloss Black
New RDA Slotted disks
New QFM A1RM Street/Track pads
High Temp Brake Fluid



Front:
New C-V joints, shafts and nuts
New Bottom Ball joints
New Tie-Rod ends
New Gearshift Bushing set
New Strut tops
New Front indicators
New Clear indicators



Rear:
Used hatch with glass and spoiler rewired
Used rear bumper bar
New Tail lights



Interior:
New EL Dials
New Chrome Guage Rings
Used Short shifter
Used MS CF gearshift knob
Used Nardi Leather 350mm steering wheel off BJ + original Airbag
Used MS Seats
Used door handles
Used door sills




TO DO:

fix rear damage
Paint over rust converter in rear
Replace all suspension bushings (and get correct part numbers for them)
New swaybar links - (adjustable worth it?)
New brake hoses (compare price with braided steel hose)
Wheels from Rupe...
Tyres from option1
Degrease engine bay again
install rear brake assemblies and clean throughly
Clean underbody and rust converter
Get injectors ultrasonic cleaned
Install parts from HT...
sell HT for $10K. haha.
















also. looking into the Legalities and stuff for the BP-T (after sorting though the bickering about P plate rules etc- never realised how much it was complained about!!!)

i seem to have a fairly decent understanding regarding it

no more than 3.4 litres capacity, turboed = ok :)

mod plate required for swap.

"1. If the engine was an option in the model of car you are using, and all pollution equipment applicable to the engine (as used in the original car) has been used, then no testing is required.

2. If the car was not an option in the car you are using, but is a production engine from another car and all applicable pollution equipment has been used, then no testing is required because 'legal reasoning' suggests that the engine already complies.

3. In the case of a brand new engine (including an engine you build yourself using a brand new block), testing will be required, but the emissions standards applicable at the year of manufacture of the vehicle need to be adhered to.

VicRoads also said that an engineering certificate is required when fitting any engine which was not a factory option on that vehicle. If the engine was available as a factory option, equivilent brakes, suspension and steering components need to be used, and no engineering certificate is required."

i can only assume that QLD is SIMILAR.

this means that i can use a GTX/GTR ECU, wiring, sensors, etc and i do NOT have to do an emissions test. BUT can ONLY use the stock gear legally (i.e. no upgraded turbo etc). i assume boost would also be limited to 8psi max as factory...

OR I have to meet the 1997 emissions test and can use whatever I like. (and pay whatever it costs to do the tests....)

is this accurate/up to date - or close to it> seems easy to swap for a low powered conversion, and alot more difficult and $$$ to do it legally and have more power.

You'll want to avoid the emissions test? Heard they're up around $1500-2000.

As for p-plater rules, you're gonna have to go read them again. No mod plates allowed. So no engine swaps to a non-factory engine

VicRoads and QldTransport have very different rules regarding engine mods. Since the BP and BPT are the same engine, all you need is a turbo mod plate. which is only a smiple inspection to make sure the car will not blow up and the brakes work.

I am off my p plates in January. Car will hopefully registered in a month or so stock then I will start modifying. So Ryan that rule about only adding 10% more power than the highest available for any engine in the model does not apply?

never heard that 10% rule before. suggest looking at the light vehicle modifications pdf of the QLD DOT website for what you can and cannot do.

Basically no mod plate or emissions testing is required if the upgraded engine uses stock engine and gearbox mounts, and does not exceed more than 110% (115% in some states) of the max optional engine originally available.

Woot! i was mentioned! haha

Just keep the original engine until you're off your P's then go crazy.. In the mean time you have plenty to keep you occupied.

Glad to see the future mods and i look forward to seeing the end result :D

just noticed the rules have changed for registering a written off car as of 1/8/11 (nsw at least).
might wanna have a check through qld just to make sure the game's still fair play.

That was our fault :P gotta love the Lebanese community :P lol

Still ok in qld, checked that before looking at it!!

so? get a mod plate, prblem solved! more powah!

yes but then it has to pass emissions testing. i havent called up yet but am going to find some accurate up to date info at least. panel beating is next on the list. also, i want to paint my rear beaver panel in white/black, and was wondering if its actually legal to do so, or whether the reflectiveness of the panel as is is required. (obviously i wouldnt paint over the lights etc.) becuase i could easily get away with a bit of bog and plastic weld then paint over it and stick it back on once i sort the boot out... saves me buying another just to paint it again...?


it seems any mechanic can give me a RWC and then it gets thoroughly looked over by the DOT to see its been fixed to appropriate standards. my next question is, is there any reason why i couldnt just fix the rear damage (as thats what got it written off) and then register it with all the dents in it? being that the sooner i can get it registered, 1 it can sit on the road until I clear the side of vegetation to get it into the back yard, and 2, becuase the less time its been off the road the easier it MAY be to get it back onto it? downside is that id be paying $10 a week to have it sit there in rego.

but for now its running ok, actually sounds pretty good for a stock car... much better than my annoying exhaust with a good induction note. found the manuals and service papers and has been pretty much serviced every 10,000Ks since new. which is good. all the windows slide nicely, the doors shut properly and in general much nicer inside than mine... and after stuffing around getting supplied the wrong parts AGAIN and driving to mt gravatt and back to indro, the ford laser clutch slave cyclinder fits, and the one listed for the 1997 BA hatch is not. weird. tomorrow arvo is carefully pulling away the interior and exterior to get the damage sussed and calling wrecking yards and HOPING that ABC wreckers have an all you can carry on wednesday...that would make my day and project a million times cheaper/easier (they had a white hatch with an intact rear hatch with a totalled front, complete with bumper in white :D)

no it does not. no testing in queensland. again read the pdf i suggested.

you are not doing a engine replacement. replacement in ADR land means you are swapping orignal for something different, ie no. of cyliners, change of capacity etc.

you are swapping a BP engine to a BP engine.

or read the Code Of Practice for Qld vehicles. Especially section LA3. all turbo mods only require good engineering to be an allowable modification. using stock parts which all have been used previously and passed ADRs make the job easier.

Ok. Will do! Does this potentially make the addition of standalone EMS, larger turbos etc. Alter this and can possibly result as defect due to being passed with stock gear? Anyway I've got alot to consider before buying an engine...

so. a little more progress and a little more money = this:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0133.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0116.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0114.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0110.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0111.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0125.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0130.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0107.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0106.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/FILE0117.jpg




a semi-complete car! still have to re-bleed the clutch and remove the old alarm wiring and put the interior back together and itll be swell. no radio/speakers yet either. that will come last.

what i have done today/yesterday is: replace mirrors, rear hatch, bumper and do some home panel beating (i.e somewhat carefully placed rubber mallet strikes... and then some.) turned out that when i installed this undamaged hatch, the rear of the car (with the lock!) was about 2cm too short and had all been pushed in. so after about 2 hours of looking, checking and bashing, the end result is a nicely opening/closing boot, with an almost perfect seal exccept for the main damage. (which is really not that bad once the old crumpled stuff was removed!)

so, i will go to the panel shop to see if they can do anything for a reasonable price (to fix the paint/rust and bash it a bit more + pricing on a beating on the roof.

so, im am very happy so far, its still cost well under $1000 and runs well. a/c didnt seem to trouble it this arvo either. ran carby cleaner through it too. no oil leaks, YAY!!!

gah. screwed up the order. oh well. also, the wiring for the hatch lights/wipers are different so have to rewiire that too... :(

i would just do the panel beating on the back section yourself. it is all hidden by plastic panels and the rear bumper, so it doesn't have to be prefect, or even white in colour.

piece of wood, heavy ounce rubber mallet, smack it hard in a few places, sand by hand the rust, (if much/any), spray anti-rust from a can, done.

Thing is, its got a bloody hollow section, so to get access id have to pull apart the seam, remove the entire top inside bit where the latch is, then its easy from there. Had the mallet and wood out in force yesterday. Any suggestions for splitting and rejoining the seam?

alot of mis-information on this thread guys. Sorry but you need to research & ask the right questions to cut through the bull****! An emissions test is only necessary when you want to replace original engine with custom modifications. Custom meaning, non-factory replacement engine parts being used.

Here goes for the basics only on boosted engine replacement, whether or not vehicle is deemed a repairable write-off:

1) If you use a same model/year turbocharged/SC'd engine in any aprticular model vehicle, you do not need to satisfy any regulations! The emissions standard of any factory engin suffices! Period!

2) As long as you use a newer factory turbocharged engine as a replacement in your car, regardless of the model, as long as original turbo, ECU & ALL emissions equipment is retained for install, factory turbo bolt ons, all sensors etc, you are OK!

The factory emissions standard for any engine satisfies the engineer! It's the emissions standard of a particular engine & it's management system that you must comply with. FULLSTOP!

Hope this clears up basic info for some ;) There is a whole lot more to mods & plating but this was to get to the initial acceptable ruling. Then you go from here.

P.S. An emissions test does not guarantee you will pass for the $1600 it costs! You are not told why you failed. You just have to keep doing test infinitely until it passes. No guarantee whatsoever is given by emissions testing centres. The ADL standard is just that. A set standard you must meet!

Laws are different between states Tim, you might want to check your facts first.