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Old 05-09-2012, 10:48 PM   #4261
FairyKitty
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Random question. In terms of speaker set up, what can one do to minimise vibration/rattling. Currently my speakers are just bolted straight onto the metal. I was thinking that some kind of rubber seal/spacer might exist?
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:55 PM   #4262
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Cheapest way is to stick all the plastic clips to the metal to stop them rattling, and add weight to the panels using dynamat, peal and seal etc. and add foam between the intrusion bar and panels. Also keeping the rods off the metal will help stop them vibration.
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:53 AM   #4263
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Thanks man I'll try that out when i re-do my speakers properly and paint my doors

Another random question, will BJ1 tail lights bit a BJ2?
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:16 AM   #4264
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Thanks man I'll try that out when i re-do my speakers properly and paint my doors

Another random question, will BJ1 tail lights bit a BJ2?
yes.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:56 PM   #4265
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Mazda logo switch?

When did Mazda switch from using the candle logo to using the M logo?

My BA has a build date of Feb '98 and has the candle logo front and rear of the car, but uses the M logo on the steering wheel and the owner's manual.

Was there a period of mixing logos?
This car has had front end repairs some time in the past and I guess the repairer could have used an earlier front bumper and logo.


There's no real point to this question, I'm just curious.

Pete.
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:11 PM   #4266
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I think it was with the series 3 update in early '97

Sounds like the repair just used whatever he found. But that would imply he changed the rear garnish as well where the logo is, as from memory it has a different cutout for the M badge.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:04 PM   #4267
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there was no mixing of logos... somebody changed them on your car
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:32 PM   #4268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupewrecht View Post
I think it was with the series 3 update in early '97

Sounds like the repair just used whatever he found. But that would imply he changed the rear garnish as well where the logo is, as from memory it has a different cutout for the M badge.
Nope. My series 3 had the anus badges too. I'd have changed them but they'd already permanently marked the paint
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:39 PM   #4269
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jul/aug97 series 3 change
sep97 badge change (which included M badge airbag as standard)

if you got a 98, and the old anus badge, as the man siad, someone has done a swap at some stage.
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Old 13-09-2012, 09:18 AM   #4270
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Ok guys i'm going to do the rear wiper delete mod i have seen done on the protege5
it will work on the sp20 right?
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Old 13-09-2012, 09:21 AM   #4271
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Ok guys i'm going to do the rear wiper delete mod i have seen done on the protege5
it will work on the sp20 right?
Yep jess (smurfy) did it a while ago and so did dane (sp-20-DB) I think had too.
Probably best just to PM them
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Old 13-09-2012, 10:25 AM   #4272
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Ok guys i'm going to do the rear wiper delete mod i have seen done on the protege5
it will work on the sp20 right?
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Originally Posted by BG1.8sp View Post
Yep jess (smurfy) did it a while ago and so did dane (sp-20-DB) I think had too.
Probably best just to PM them
pretty easy to do just have to go to bunnings and get a 3cm (1inch 1/4) rubber grommet for the hole (from memory)

What i did.. removed wiper then went to bunnings got about 3 sizes around what i thought it was pay for them then fit in the car park until you find the right size then return the wrong ones :-D

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Old 13-09-2012, 01:01 PM   #4273
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Ok thanks guys
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Old 13-09-2012, 02:10 PM   #4274
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Has anybody here ever used chassis foam to stiffen up their chassis?

Citations in regards to benefits, as well as guides can be found above
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Old 13-09-2012, 02:36 PM   #4275
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if you dont mind the massive weight increase to your car. light alloy metal bars work much better and weigh alot less.
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Old 13-09-2012, 02:39 PM   #4276
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Plus (depending on type of foam) it can trap moisture = rust, and it's a bitch to repair that part of the car again as it's full of crap.
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Old 13-09-2012, 02:45 PM   #4277
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Fantastic for an S13 that you want to slide. Only recommend for a drift track car for the above reasons....
Rust is a big issue. Weight increase isnt that bad if you are only doing the chassis rails. And if you strip out the car it makes up or it.
Definitely stiffens up the body alot tho.
Only reason why I said for a drift car.... Because lets face it.... Car won't last more than 3 years lol

Basically.... Wouldn't recommend
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Old 14-09-2012, 07:57 AM   #4278
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In the BA, is the radiator cap the highest point in the cooling system (or can fill it from there without issues) or do I need to get a radiator filling tool (like a screw on funnel) to lift the point?
Cheers
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Old 14-09-2012, 08:22 AM   #4279
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Rad cap is the highest point.
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Old 14-09-2012, 08:37 AM   #4280
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Fkn awesome cheers Ryan (I swear I asked this already a few months back when the BA burst the heater hose)
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