The Project-R Lantis

[project.r.racing]

Just noticed is has a 1mm thick insert to make it a 10mm hole. Tried a stock endlink in the hole, and it works.

Just brought one of these kits:-
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120829352...84.m1497.l2649

Whiteline Universal Link kit-spherical rod end 315-340 mm P/N KLC40-315

I calculate the length of the endlink required to be 325mm. Allows me to be -10/+15mm out in my calculations.

[project.r.racing]

Note the end link. 40-45mm from where it should be. And the swaybar is touching the latteral link. So another 25mm space for that. Makes 65-70mm longer end link required.

These also look like you could go 15-20mm lower than the BCs. Not that you would want to. Already had too much rubbning at the currect height on the fronts with the BCs softer spring rates.

[70NYD]

Wow man I havent seen that before
Cool

[mattylagana]

Very nice aye :P, mine went in the other week and i love it, just quickly do u dare compare the cusco front brace to the whiteline one ? or cusco to ome

[project.r.racing]

cusco s@#ts all over the whiteline one. just the way if adjust and the ends are directly welded to the end plates, makes the cusco ones alot stronger.

yesterday using the cusco rear brace, i was able to pull the rear arches 2-3mm inwards using the cusco rear brace. so it has alot of strength to move welded chassis parts. which means it can hold those chassis parts in place.

the whiteline version designs are not designed to pull at each end. but just hold everything in place.

i'd go the cusco ones over the whiteline ones. and they are cheaper 2nd hand from dan than new whiteline ones.

edit// and they are lighter also.

[TheMAN]

+1 on the cusco
my friend changed his front strut bar in his Nissan S13 from some ebay cheapies to a cusco bar... made a huge difference... front end was noticeably tighter and jacking up the car there was less chassis flex

his car got destroyed at the front corner when he lent the car to his idiot friend... lost control in the rain... that brace helped keep the engine bay from collapsing more than it already had!

[project.r.racing]

Still hanging for these endlinks tp turn up. Then I can finished the suspension and the it all aligned. Then I'll be able to measure for the widths of the 15 inch wheels. Front will fit fine, rears are so close, need to measure when all completed with the 18x7.5s on.

[project.r.racing]

The endlinks turned up today. Time to get busy Wed/Thurs evening and get the suspension finished.

turns out the anodised yellow of Whiteline is the same as Yellowspeed. Wow everything matches. lol

[DavoAust]

Looking good. You staying at the current height or lifting it a little?

How will the extra long endlinks go with the extra stress?

[project.r.racing]

Raise the height a little.

Endlinks are thicker and stronger than oem.

[DavoAust]

Nice, you'd hate to break one

Whats the plan with it now? Still doing motorkhana or track days?

[project.r.racing]

I'll take a pics of the old and new endlink together tomorrow.

Yup still doing motorkhanas and trackdays.

[project.r.racing]

New vs old endlinks - everything is slight thicker/stronger. But weight a s@#tload less than oem.






bye bye!!!


Made a small rookie error when installing the YSR. Thought I'd lift the ride height 10mm, so I did all the measurements required and installed the fronts. They are now 25mm higher than before. I guess the difference in the 8kg vs the 6kg is 15mm less sag against the weight of the car. Rear are about 20mm difference as I set them to the same height as the rears coming out, but the are only 5kg vs 4kg, and the still changed 20mm.

[TheMAN]

yeah, but less chance of getting defected now!
don't you just love that rallyE height?

so how are those endlinks? any noise?

[project.r.racing]

height is still low. i'll get out there tomorrow or the next day and sort out the heights.

the rear wheels look like they have positive camber also, so some lowering and bolt adjustment will sort that out.

endlinks don't seem to be making any noise, but then, i cannot hear anything over my exhaust anyway.

[project.r.racing]

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

Tried to drive the car for the first time since coilover install over one week ago. Clutch pedal offered little resistence when pushed. Oh I thought. Wouldn't go into first and reverse. Used two hands to crunch into those gears. Turned off car. Drove the 3 to work instead.

So got into the car this morning. Looked for the usal leaks, master, slave, piping. Nothing but dust/dirt.

Looked under dash at clutch at master arm, saw heaps of orange corrosion which has been there forever anyways. Though my have finally packed it in. Pumped it 100s times. Still not a drop of fluid came out.

Gear stick lever has been sloppy for past six months, so got under the car to have a look. This is what I found attached to the gear sitck lever.



Old green rubbers were non exsistent. That was all that was left of the originals. So I replaced them with the Corksport Brass ones I've had lying around for ages. I left the eblow (due to the rivet holding it all in), and the front 2 bushes looked passable. They still have small cracks in them, so will need to be replaced soonish. I see how I go with these brass ones, as I've heard lots of positive and negetive feedback about them. And switch to the $25 QFord ones if need be.

So after puting it all back together, thinking I've sorted this all out. It still would go into gear and the wheel wouldn't spin in neutral with them off the ground. Spun the wheel by hand and bang, the wheels locked started rotating as normal.

Guessing after all that, when I did the coilover install. That the synchronization of the gears must have been out. Maybe the car rolled a millimeter to two when I was lifting it off the ground for the install.

Now I have all gear selections. Guess I just needed to roll the car a few millimeters to fix the synchronization issue. But at least the gear stick feel is alot better!!!

[project.r.racing]

Got my 1st chance to really give the coilovers a good go. Not at 100% in cornering due to alignment being poo poo.

The 5kg rears make a world of difference in the rear for striaght line accelleration. Not squatting like the old 4kg rears did. Much happier now like bck when the D2s/JICs were in.

Gotta sort out the height, camber and alignment, then go for a good cornering tests.

[Clean_Cookie]

Interesting that the slightly stiffer springs make a noticeable difference! I'm sure I'll be happy with the softer ones, or at least the other half will be!

[project.r.racing]

Yeah for your needs. They do fine. I guess I just like really stupidly stiff springs.

[project.r.racing]

Also got some Toda 256d 9.0mm lift cams and gears coming in that are solid bucket friendly. Same base circle as the current original cams, so should just swap in. The awaiting ticking noises, hopefully not.

Big jump from the 231/241d in/ex cams that are oem. Very little extra lift. So I guess the higher rpm range is where thise will really take effect.