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Old 22-01-2010, 08:13 AM   #1
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Car: Black Lantis BA 2.5L KLZE
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Question Tuning and timing

Hey all- my cars been running a bit rough lately, everybody says I need to take it to the mechanic and get it "tuned", or take it down to a dyno and get it "tuned". What I want to know is what exactly do they do???

I have the klze in my car running off the standard 2L ecu, and it runs fine most the time, but then over time I can feel the cars performance deteriorate and the exhaust gets all burbly. New spark plugs fix it but only for about a month and then im back to the roughness n bunnyhops

I dont think its directly an ecu issue- sure the standard ecu holds me back some ( LOTS) but I don't think its the causing my car to run ragged. maybe more a timing/tuning issue- but I don't know where to start aye. Few things I can think of are maybe my FPR could be set incorrectly, or one of the sparkplug leads is faulty, I have stacks of spare leads but how do I test em? And what about timing? - I read that even if u adjusted it, that the ecu just resets it to normal, I can get my hands on a timing light but i guess it would probably be pointless? Might give the dizzy cap some attention too.

Basically it boils down to this- I'm sick of my car driving like a retard, and I'm sick of people telling me to take it down to a mechanic to get it "tuned" - I'm also too stubborn/skint to take it down to said mechanic. So who out there has my quick fix?? anybody

Any help at all would be appreciated. cheers
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Old 22-01-2010, 10:27 AM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8
Posts: 4,911
im in a similar boat as u mate. im hoping that i have some bad fuel cus i tested and cheked everything and its all ok... just misfire sometime, sometime revs drop randomly at idle... all this in the last few days..
timing wise u have to short out the TEN and GND terminals in the diagnostics plug (search the forum, there are some good pics ) and then u can set the base timing freely.
im not sure if u do or dont have a knock sensor on the KL
hopefully we can both solve this lol
if my fuel isnt bad then its probly the leads or dizzy cap/button, cus i JUST changed the plugs like a month ago..
i havent found a mech that i like yet, last guy i took my car to to check my timing (when the plugs werent working i thought the timing was of..) didnt even short out the terminals to adjust it... useless
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Old 22-01-2010, 10:29 AM   #3
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Location: Sutherland Sydney
Car: astina BA 1997 1.8Ltr
Posts: 609
do few simple inexpensive things first and work your way up.

ignition check is a good start, specially if its hesitates under load.

check leads for any cracks and in the dark you can see if they are leaking sparks (arcs).

Check the dissy cap (specially the spring loaded nipple in the middle) and rotor also.

Replace fuel & air filters

Run a bottle of injector cleaner with full tank of petrol.

Base idle & timing is set by putting ECU into diagnostic mode (connecting TEN to GND in data link connector in engine bay near fuse & realy box). If you have a timing light you can do this quite easily. once you remove the jumper wire between TEN & GND the ECU takes over and alters the timing.

Its a good thing to do a error code check as well (in case if you have a faulty sensor).
You can do this with a LED and count the short & long pluses to extract any error codes.

O2 sensor can be checked with a voltmeter, it should fluctuate between 0.2V and 0.8V when the engine is fully warmed up & idling. This may also indicate you if your injectors or fuel delivery system is bad if the engine is running lean all times.
1997 Astina BA11P3, 5 Door Hatch, 1.8 DOHC, 5 Speed, 90,000 kms

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Old 22-01-2010, 05:10 PM   #4
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Location: Location: Vic
Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD
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My 929 had a similar problem. New spark plugs would have the engine running fine but only for 2,000km at best and then it ran like crap again. Being a K series V6 some of the things I did are not relevant but it ended up being dizzy cap and rotor button but being a V6 it could be the old V6 igniter failure problem which means replacing the dizzy or doing a search on MX6 or Probetalk for 'disty problem' for a cheaper and more creative solution.
My 'stina Hatch
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Old 22-01-2010, 06:51 PM   #5
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Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Car: Black Lantis BA 2.5L KLZE
Posts: 92
cheers for the constuctive ideas guys, i'll be gettin on to it 2moro. I doubt its the dizzy cause I have a fairly new one in, but i have a couple of spares to give a go. will update when i have had a better look
thanks guys
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Old 23-01-2010, 09:02 AM   #6
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Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Car: Black Lantis BA 2.5L KLZE
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well i was gonna give it a go 2day but last nite when I got home after a nite out with the boys, I walked inside and basically fell through a floorboard- done my leg in good and proper- I can barely even walk 2day
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Old 25-01-2010, 10:11 PM   #7
Old Grey
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Car: Astina BG 1991 - Rx7 S4
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Pull the plugs and see if any are black or dark, you may need a hotter plug.
If the plugs are light colour don't go hotter or you may burn a hole in a piston.
Maybe try a different brand.
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:17 AM   #8
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Location: THORA NSW
Car: 93 SP Astina, Pajero
Posts: 33
I know its an old post but I found it to try and help me with similar symptoms.

Anyhow I found it by accident just before I was going to check for fault codes etc. I had the car idling while I was trying to jump start someone else. Then she started to squirt some coolant out of the rad cap....what - over heating?? Then I noticed the fan was not going. OK turned her off let her cool then drove her the 1k home. Turned the a/c on when I got home & the temps came down - fan working...

OK so the ecu controls the fan when a/c is not in control. ecu gets signal from temp sensor??? Checked & the connection had come off.

So now fan works, car is no longer running rich (must have been in limp mode or similar), all seems good

So it is worth a check of temp sensor. Check resistance, check that it is connected properly, check continuity from the sensor to the ecu connector.

Hope this can help someone else.
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