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01-05-2010, 09:02 AM | #81 |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Melbourne.
Car: 2001 323 Astina SP20
Posts: 474
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Where is the best place to buy a car from? As far as i can gather the HPI e10 is the way to go? Seeing you guys talk about them has made me want one
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01-05-2010, 09:02 AM | #82 |
The Hairy Mod
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: southside ya'll and North Side, Brissy
Car: MINI Cooper S 2003
Posts: 8,110
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check out ebay...
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For All your crash repair panels & lights, clear lights contact us at
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01-05-2010, 09:19 AM | #83 |
Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ipswich, Queensland
Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon
Posts: 9,769
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yeah, ebay is your friend, I purchased mine that had been used for 4 hours, came with 2 batteries & 14 rims/tyres for $250 shipped!
If you just wanna drift, either get HPI E10 or Tamiya TT-01D chassis'
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01-05-2010, 09:22 AM | #84 |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Melbourne.
Car: 2001 323 Astina SP20
Posts: 474
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So i should definitely jump on this? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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01-05-2010, 09:24 AM | #85 |
Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ipswich, Queensland
Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon
Posts: 9,769
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01-05-2010, 09:25 AM | #86 |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Melbourne.
Car: 2001 323 Astina SP20
Posts: 474
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Cool thanks, ill keep an eye out on ebay.
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01-05-2010, 10:17 AM | #87 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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Quote:
I was looking on brizdrift last night, and it does seem that the HPI e10 and Tamiya TT01[D] are the ones to get. I've got one of the worst kits to use for drifting, but it still works. Gav. |
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01-05-2010, 10:23 AM | #88 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
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tc3/tc4 are my pick. sold my tc3 unfortunately. had heaps of parts but hard to buy spares.. i thought that would be a problem until.... UNTIL I slammed into concrete walls at 50+ km/hr, flipped at over 100km/hr (gps didnt survive though ) and caused all sorts of carnage (what were we expecting with 25v of pure goodness and a 1.5kW motor...:P) BUT I NEVER BROKE ANYTHING IN 2 years. most of the stuff i replaced was from me breaking it while trying to fix it... my favourite car of all time, one of the most famous and hence where my name originated from lol.
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01-05-2010, 10:26 AM | #89 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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01-05-2010, 10:32 AM | #90 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
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http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=zAwS...eature=related
theres my inspiration right there. not 200km/hr, we werent skilled enough for that, but we were running mamba monster max + neu motor (best motors in the world!!), and a 6s lipo, which was actually quite well balanced. rpm was around 56000 rpm for the motor at max speed which sounded sweet! had to get a carbon fibre shaft made which was a little $$ but enabled this stupid speed also my currect collection includes a traxxas stampede upgraded and cheap fun (with their velion system), a baja with currently no motor but if anyone wants it, its heaps of fun with a motor - got a rear dom pipe and no joke, wheelies from a standstill with dirt tyres on the road! lots of fun but not much use... just taking up space... a b44 race buggy with sensored gear to comply with the rules (YUCK!) and nomadio controller (which can and is used for a game controller!, updateable firmware etc, even headphone jack to listen to alerts. has voltage relayed back to the controller too as well as speed (rpm), temperature and other cool stuff!) in stock class but alot of fun havent raced this year though
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Worklog Last edited by Clean_Cookie; 01-05-2010 at 10:40 AM. |
01-05-2010, 10:39 AM | #91 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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I love the Mark Webber right at the end there. I did that with my Kyosho MkII Spider one day when it hit a small undulation in the road at around 60-70kph or something. Amazing how they fly when you get a bit of air under them at the wrong time!
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01-05-2010, 11:10 AM | #92 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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Hey, what ground clearance do you guys run? 5mm, 10mm? I'm wondering if there is any point getting superlows and swaybars for my TL01D.
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01-05-2010, 11:52 AM | #93 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
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ive found its good to have stiff suspension but where i used to run (suncorp stadium) it was really rough (racing not drifting), the minis were too soft and bounced and flipped whereas mine was high (10mm) but quite hard and would hit the bump and sort of settle down alot quicker even though the inital hit was rough... that was racing with 8turn BRUSHED motors. rather hot and quick. everyone apart from me had 3-8 cars each week. i had one... guess who was the only person EVERY week to still be running around the broken cars... ME! and who had the cheapest car... ME haha. lotsa fun
sway bars do make a difference BUT have to race on a track to really notice it UNLESS its really stiff or really soft. going .5mm in thickness up i couldnt ever tell the difference. but then again im more of a set and forget and just hope its faster than the rest :P
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01-05-2010, 12:17 PM | #94 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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Well, the only adjustability on my TL01 is the front toe, as the stock fixed steering arms with toe-in understeered greatly. The only reason I ever got adjustable camber arms on my nitro cars, was to get even wear across all the tyres. And since the TL01 has always worn evenly across the tyres, I never worried about further adjustment. But if I lowered it down to 5mm from 10mm, and put sway bars on it, things might change. If I ever bothered with grip driving again, the 2deg toe-in rear uprights might cause uneven wear too. I'm sort of liking the drifting though, as it's been vastly cheaper than grip driving. ABS tyres last forever, and I find I don't need a big honking motor and bigger batteries to get by. I sort of don't need any more mods the way the car feels, it's not like I compete, and need the last few tenths to get by.
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01-05-2010, 12:53 PM | #95 | |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
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Quote:
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01-05-2010, 01:00 PM | #96 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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Yeah, Mad Matt has cones, so we could setup some courses like the do at the skidpan days, which would make the driving meaningful at least.
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01-05-2010, 01:03 PM | #97 | |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
Posts: 5,011
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Quote:
also i don't have the cones anymore dad doesn't like me borrowing councel stuff anymore
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01-05-2010, 01:10 PM | #98 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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That's OK, I will get a 12 pack off eBay. I just don't know whether to get the flatter discs or the smaller cones:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT What do you think guys? The rounds ones probably won't get knocked over or pushed along by bad drivers like Marc. Also, they would take up less space in the back of my car, and are easier to transport from the back yard to Maccas. Gav. |
01-05-2010, 01:19 PM | #99 |
Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ipswich, Queensland
Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon
Posts: 9,769
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go to a cheapy store or even Amart all sports
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01-05-2010, 01:42 PM | #100 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: North Side Brisbane
Car: 1998 BA 323 Astina Hardtop
Posts: 1,414
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If you get a E10 or TT01 please upgrade the main shaft to an aluminium one as using the plastic one will get the slaps happening and can damage internal components.
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