F to G Series Conversion

[phly]

Hey guys, I know this has been asked and talked about heaps of times but there doesnt seem to be a sticky on this. I hit the search button and found a post from Rupes from a couple of years ago saying

Originally Posted by Rupewrecht

If you swap over to the G, it's Clutch/flywheel/gearbox/front and top gearbox mounts/clutch line and actuator/driveshafts and cvs. Parts (apart from gearbox) are a pain to find as even a lot of mazda wreckers don't seem to know the difference. Just say you're after 28 spline shafts, not 26 spline (f series) as that helps

I've got a clutch which is starting to slip. Im also looking at replacing my cvs/driveshafts. Im also considering getting a BPT conversion soon, so all signs point to "go get a g series box".

Ive got a couple of questions and was wondering if anyone is able to answer them.

-Do I need all of the below parts and how much for each approx? Anything missing?
1. G series box (what car should I be looking to get it out of?)
2. Flywheel (should I get one from a GTX while im at it, assuming i'd need it later on or will any do?)
3. Clutch line and actuator (are these available brand new?)
4. Gearbox mounts (are these available brand new?)
5. Clutch (probably go for a Exedy HD)
6. Driveshafts and CVs (im assuming these would be different for F and G series gearboxes?)
7. Labour

- Wouldnt 1-4 come together if they are taking it off another car?

- Should I straight cut 3rd gear before putting it in?

- Is it worth reconditioning the gearbox before putting it in?

- Anything else worth considering?

- Should I stick with my F series box and just put a Exedy HD in that? When I go turbo I dont think i'd go much further than stock with exhaust and intercooler.

[Rupewrecht]

Here you go.
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3109

[phly]

Hey Rupe, thanks for that. Helped quite a bit.

From what i've read, you've broken a couple of F-series boxes in your time. Just wondering if this was when you first had the turbo conversion or was it when you had about 200KW at the wheels.

I just wanna gauge how much power the F-series box can take cuz i'm less inclined to get a G-series if I dont really need to. Seem like quite a bit of work and money LOL.

Are there any members running a BPT with an F-series box?

[Rupewrecht]

I broke Fs with 194atw, and 120atw. It lasted longer with more power as i had more lag and the power came on later, so the F box handles it better as it's already spinning quickly and can disperse the load. They're like butter, and don't handle torque at all. I've talked to wreckers that say they've supplied them to people that have broken them when NA, let alone turbo.

I've had a G for over 2 years now and haven't had a problem, and i drive it hard. If you want the reliability and don't want to have the worry of actually driving your car hard, then don't bother with the F.

[Warbzy]

F series = waste of time if u goin to bpt.

[mussing]

Derb has a BPT and an F series box, if I remember correctly.

[derb]

i do, has been in with the bpt for over 2 years now and about 9months of that are my ownership. i've got no problems really. its a little stiff when cold, but once its warm, all good.

but i use royal purple oil and dont flat shift or anything. you can still go fast without raping a gearbox, which is why i assume people with non-turbo motors can kill them. oh and i heel-toe/blip the throttle EVERY down shift because i love to heel-toe, so i'm guessing that helps too.

[derb]

just thought i'd update this post. 2 weeks ago my final drive started grinding, and it went into Hart Transmissions today. apparently the whole diff is dead, crown wheel and pinion are shot to hell, and 3rd has been mashed by torque. so, yeh, you might get 2 years from an F box.

[rodhog]

Doing the conversion makes most sense.

if you do it, I can only suggest you fit it once. EG if you do plan ot do a BPT conversion - Mod the box - now fit a LSD Fit new syncro's etc.

Do it all once and the only pain I'm in now is not fitting up a 626 turbo H box. but then again I've blown them too. AH HA HA

but yeah, do it all once. IMO too price of some of these parts as whole front cuts etc are so cheap now, or even as complete wreaks. I recently saw a BA hatch 1.8L - S1 manual body was totalled - go for $980 at the auctions.
front end was damaged and was side swipped but merchanicals are fine. But as the cars are old they don't demand much to wreakers. Only cars with complete lights and panels do.

I did my first conversion with a $500 trading post smashed car. I used the seats in my Wagon and still have the boot lid from it for a despoiler version

[Clean_Cookie]

OR- buy the lot from me! (would already be removed and cleaned...) seen boxes advertised for $500-800 alone! so for a great smooth box and all parts required, it could be urs for $500ono!

[Rupewrecht]

Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001

OR- buy the lot from me! (would already be removed and cleaned...) seen boxes advertised for $500-800 alone! so for a great smooth box and all parts required, it could be urs for $500ono!

BG G series is different to BA G series, so not that simple...

[Clean_Cookie]

oh really - what is required? different mounts? wasnt aware they were different!

[Rupewrecht]

Mounts are different, driveshafts are a different length, gearbox is a different width. Other threads discuss it in more detail.

[project.r.racing]

if i get a custom braided clutch line, can i exclude all of it from the above lists required? or will i still need sections of it?

[Rupewrecht]

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

if i get a custom braided clutch line, can i exclude all of it from the above lists required? or will i still need sections of it?

Yeah, you could get a long one made up that does away with the solid line at the front. It'd just need some mounts so it doesn't rub on anything.