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Old 19-10-2013, 01:11 AM   #1
ghetto3
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Ghe770

I purchased this 97 bp ba early in 2011 to play spanners once again.
Previous projects including another ba, 76 toyota crown with 7mgte, triple dellorto'd uc torana, hj kingy, etc,etc.

The mods started with a whiteline swaybar and a set of bc coilovers and a set of ms01rs'.

Some of the pics are broken but the current posts have recent shots.
Currently it's in pieces for the impending throttle body install with spec list as follows:

Stock 95 block
97 head, light port clean up, polished exhuast ports, portmatched intake, exhuast
Three angle valve grind, 0.060" (huge!) shave,
Toda 256 cams, toda cam gears, mazda motorsport SUB buckets (thanks project.r)
Supertech springs/titanium retainers, duropro stem sealsJenvey individual throttle bodies, 40mm trumpets,penny and giles contactless tps
Adaptronic 440 universal select ecu, innovate wideband controller/guage
Davies craig electric water pump, removed air con, power steer removed with desealed customized rack, hurricane headers, braided flex join, catco 300cell(?) cat, fujitsubo catback exhuast (mild steel cuz it hangs low) g5m01 lsd gearbox from lazer linx
Modified engine mounts, battery behind passenger seat (gel non gassing)
Bc coilovers some superpro and whiteline here and there, front strut brace, cusco bottom brace, 16x7/8" mso1fs, 17x8 mso1lms (i'llget that pair of 17x8+30s' you got rupe)

The interior is stripped as...hollowed out dash, autometer guages,gizzmo dual stage recall shiftlight, warning lights for low water etc, cuuuustom loom with wire tuck, courtesy lights gone, custom panel for water pump controller, fuses and relays all stacked, custom clutch reservoir, A spec side skirts, wind deflectors, carbon fibre mirrors, badge deletes...

Lots and lots and lots of mods.
Brouse my albums for a decent understanding!!!

Five stud hubs, dba front slotted discs, standard dba's rear, bendix pads,
Federal 595 evo tyres (they're the sickness). I sometimes run a mazdaspeed fixed back bucket with four point harness, use a mazdaspeed wheel, deiko boss, theres no heater core or any of the underdash vent box thingy, instead relying on glycerine based cleaners, or rainex antifog to control window misting (no more tears baby shampoo works wonders, no seriously try it! Theres a greddy air seperator on the heater core circuit with aeroflow 450 series black braided light weight hose and150 series swivel hose ends on just about everything, Aeroflow fuel pressure reg.#16 an line on electric waterpump, #8 line on the baffled catch can.
My brain hurts.

Enjoy as i refine this ramble.

Last edited by ghetto3; 03-10-2014 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 19-10-2013, 07:33 AM   #2
Clean_Cookie
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Can't wait to play in the mountains. Two totally different design objectives but this would be an epic track car!
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Old 19-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #3
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It getting way too track car which sucks in the sense that i have no intention of tracking it! It is gladly not a daily anymore, cannot wait to meet up again and see your project car beside it. Wildly different build themes but would be a great compare. Stripped verses sound deadened, turbo verses nat'asp, both with similar outwardly look...ms01 rims, a spec equipped etc.
I should mention to other parties how much this fella has contributed to this project...the 5 stud hubs, the low k block...thankyou.

And rupewrecht!
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Old 19-10-2013, 12:18 PM   #4
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This is todays' venture, ACL full gasket kit.
I was a little dissapointed the waterpump gasket was a fibre type, hoping for a metal one similar to oem but otherwise decent enough quality. May...or may not upspec the headgasket depending on headbuilders advise.

Notice the gasket kit is for a bpd? It was listed for 94/99 mx5s and it was potluck whether the inlet mani' gasket was the right one...it wasnt.
Lucky i have a proper type already. Everything i needed out of it is correct type at least.

Last edited by ghetto3; 21-10-2013 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 19-10-2013, 01:14 PM   #5
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what size are those tyres?
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Old 19-10-2013, 02:22 PM   #6
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The 16/8" federals are 205/50zr16 with an 87w load rating, 240 treadwear, AA traction and A temperature rating.
The fitting guide suggested 7" as maximum width however they arent stretched to fit. They seem to be perfect sidewall for the width. The 17/8 lms i havent fitted the correct profile yet, just a tentative fit with the original tyres that came with them from rupewrecht.
I'm starting to think i'll stick with the 16s to avoid unwanted attention from those with the power to instantly destroy my dreams. I have an immaculate driving history, not so much as a parking ticket or accident in 17 years on my full licence. It used to buy you a bit of discretion but it stands for nothing it seems these days.

Last edited by ghetto3; 24-10-2013 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 19-10-2013, 03:06 PM   #7
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Heres a shot of the nearly completed rewire of the rearend. You can just make out the wire run that travels back along the drivers side and terminates at the passenger tail light instead of the chunky looms that travelled down either side of the car. Everything rearward is included in this simple single run. The reverse lights and rear demister circuit divides above the rear drivers' side strut tower and is tucked inside the rear gate.


It is currently a little more nasty looking forward with everything dissasembled while another rewire takes place.



The beauty in the rewire (not so evident at the mo') is that everything is simplified and 'solid stated'. I know where every wire goes, what it does and with the help of my own diagrams, any potential fault can be traced fairly easily.
All of the uneccessary wiring is removed. I.E. Autometer t10 leds in all of the dash guages and such mean the dimmer is not needed...it all gets real simple.
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Old 20-10-2013, 11:40 PM   #8
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A quick mock up with a spare head:





Deciding whether an engine that may make 150/160hp (hopefully) needs ARP headstuds.
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Old 21-10-2013, 08:36 AM   #9
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WOW loving the attention to detail here hey make my car look like a lego car

STUPID STATMENT ALLERT

because your going to all this effort man why dont u go and thro some 11:1 pistons and rods at it too??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wiseco-Fo...item43aef16af9
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Old 21-10-2013, 12:04 PM   #10
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It's tempting for sure. The head shave should raise compression somewhere above 10:1, an 0.020" shave nets about half a point standard bore/deck etc from memory, so an 0.60" shave a point and a half? The spare head is being cleaned up for an all out build in the future...
11 or 12:1 compression and an 8 grand redline with full balance job, all that, is very tempting.
Stop giving me ideas
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Old 21-10-2013, 10:54 PM   #11
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Heres a quick shot of my original fuse/relay panel.
Off to jaycar tomorrow to arm up for a better go at it.
With most relays, flasher unit being mounted together, it will double in size/complexity. I have a few wiring diagrams and use early 90s' mx5 diagrams as inspiration for simplicity. I discovered early rx7s' didn't use relays in their power window circuits instead flowing full amperage through uprated switches. Hmmm theres an idea...

Last edited by ghetto3; 21-10-2013 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 27-10-2013, 04:04 AM   #12
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Relying on decking the head or block isn't an ideal form of increasing compression and is not the same as utilising high compression piston/rod combo. If you have the budget I'd suggest doing the rods + pistons now, it'll also help your off cam (and on cam for that matter) performance. The reason cars traditionally feel reallllly laggy off cam is that there overcammed.

Regarding decking, there are two factors at play that cause the reduced efficiency from increased compression from decking. One being flame propagation and the other being quench.

It's 4am so really dont have the presence of mind to post a well thought out post, sides you prolly already know this.

Still sweet build. <3 NA.
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Old 27-10-2013, 04:14 AM   #13
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Yep, just trying to keep it relatively cheap, knowing that rods and pistons would benefit the itbs. Last time i opened a bottom end i got stung by some unscrupulous types and have shyed away from it since.
Not really looking for big power, more theatrics...whats the word i'm looking for?
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Old 27-10-2013, 04:34 AM   #14
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I had a budget at one point in time. Nice to know someone has more will power then me

I haven't gone over by much though which is nice
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Old 27-10-2013, 02:27 PM   #15
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Regarding decking, there are two factors at play that cause the reduced efficiency from increased compression from decking. One being flame propagation and the other being quench.

It's 4am so really dont have the presence of mind to post a well thought out post, sides you prolly already know this.

Still sweet build. <3 NA.[/QUOTE]

If, at a decent hour, youd be willing to write that in depth post, i'd love to hear (well read) your thoughts on this. I've done a bunch of research on it but it never is in layman (sic?) terms. You tend to have a knack for explaining complex theories in a way we all can understand.
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Old 28-10-2013, 11:52 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by ghetto3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice88 View Post
Regarding decking, there are two factors at play that cause the reduced efficiency from increased compression from decking. One being flame propagation and the other being quench.

It's 4am so really dont have the presence of mind to post a well thought out post, sides you prolly already know this.

Still sweet build. <3 NA.
If, at a decent hour, youd be willing to write that in depth post, i'd love to hear (well read) your thoughts on this. I've done a bunch of research on it but it never is in layman (sic?) terms. You tend to have a knack for explaining complex theories in a way we all can understand.
More then happy to explain what I know man, but in the scheme of things quench is something that I really don't have an in depth knowledge of.

Ill try draft up something at lunch. Be warned though will prolly be a lengthy post as to understand it there's a bit of theory leading up to it.
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Old 28-10-2013, 12:44 PM   #17
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Old 28-10-2013, 03:25 PM   #18
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Hope this is ok, and better yet hope its correct. (To my understanding it is )

So I’ll start my post with an overview of the combustion process.

We all know that in a naturally aspirated engine that on the exhaust stroke (i.e. pushing the exhaust gas out) that the intake valve opens towards the end of the cycle. This effectively allows air to travel from the intake side across the top of the head and out the exhaust side.

What is important to note is that this intake cycle is crucial for operating pressure. The more air we can induce into the chamber the higher the dynamic compression and as a result the more fuel we can induce to create a bigger bang. In doing so we also have the propensity to create more heat, this extra heat is absorbed into the head, piston etc. This heat in a head will have the tendency to create hot spots, which under compression will cause the fuel to detonate.

You may have heard the term that Quench is the art of introducing mechanical octane to an engine. And to a degree it does, but first we need to work out why Quench is important and in what scenarios.

Quench (Squish) is something that is incredibly important for inefficient and crappy engines such as LS1’s or old school v8 engines. The reason for this is that the valves are offset, in a DOHC or modern engine, air enters one side and out the other.

In pushrod engines and direct acting over head cam (?) the valves are offset such that if air was to scavenge it’d need to enter the piston and flow sideways outside the exhaust port. These heads tend to have flat in nature. I don’t need to point out really that is inefficient process. (This is why lots of V8 guys boost though, not because NA is crappy but merely cause there engines suck ) As a result the V8 guys start working on other means to create turbulence in engines. Some diesel engines will utilise things called swirl flaps that create swirl in the intake chamber to aid in the mixing of the fuel.

In V8s (pushrod) to create lots of power tight tolerances and well designed (in the sense of component selection and engine builder) engines are required. In stock engines the distance between the flat top of the piston and the head is usually rather conservative this results in a distance between the head (flat top of the head) and the piston being further apart then would otherwise be ideal. By reducing the distance between TDC (piston to piston deck height) and/or utilising thinner head gaskets you can in effect push the piston closer to the head.

What this means for them is that as the piston reaches TDC the air is pushed with greater force against the top of the head, what this is does introduce vertical swirls inside the combustion chamber resulting in a better mixture. The force of this air being squished and the result of a better mixture cools hot spots in the engine and reduces the lean spots created from the burn.

This is where the term of mechanical octane comes from. In fact because you’ve improved the quench in your head you can in fact use leaner mixtures then you would otherwise be able too.

What this really means for pent shaped and DOHC heads is little in comparison IMO. But I draw you to the following points:

What decking does is change the combustion head shape, this in effect means that you’re changing the shame of the chamber which can result in one of two things as I see it. It’ll either improve your quench and thus your burn. Or alternatively it’ll make it worse in which case you will effectively introduce detonation prematurely.

Flame propagation is essentially the speed at which the flame burns. This is affected in numerous ways but the basics are that a richer mixture will burn slower and vice versa for leaner mixtures. You may note that previously I mentioned that you can use leaner mixtures in a well designed engine to achieve a similar power. This will also mean that the mixture burns faster.

From my knowledge this would be particularly effective on engines which have a poor rod ratio. As they spend very little time around TDC.

I’ve prolly forgotten something or got something wrong in the above. I’ll have a read later and add anything I think I’ve missed. Let me know if you have any questions…

EDIT: Oh and becausing your increasing quench the amount of advanced timing required is reduced too. There's no real rule of thumb as the head design will determine how effective the increase in compression is
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Old 28-10-2013, 07:16 PM   #19
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Wow! Thanks mate. I reread that a few times to let it sink in. I figured i'd go ahead with an 0.060" shave from the 134mm stock thickness and basically see what happens with regard to quench benefits. If it fails and doesn't detonate itself to anchorland i might try a compression raise with pistons instead. I'll be sure to post up results as it happens. Thanks for that insight mate...Love it.

Last edited by ghetto3; 28-10-2013 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 28-10-2013, 07:50 PM   #20
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a 40 thou shave (which should be the max on a BP head) nets 0.2 higher compression ratio. don't over do the thinking and calculations as there isn't that much of a change happening to get excited about.
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