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Old 09-02-2014, 04:59 PM   #101
TheMAN
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Nah, it's gone. Only the blower for the front screen.
Have to get busy with the fibreglass to connect it up to the screen ducts. My dash vents are all filled now too.
you might be able to buy the factory non-aircon duct? much easier than making one
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:23 AM   #102
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you might be able to buy the factory non-aircon duct? much easier than making one
they have such a thing???? if so i would be keen too.
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:35 AM   #103
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You can get them on euro' models, not sure over here but it'd require the big centre section of the hvac box to stay in situ.
I'm using only the blower part.
Never played that much with fibreglass, looking forward to learning a new skill.
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Old 12-02-2014, 09:05 AM   #104
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Why not just plug/cap the bits you don't need in the vents? Seems like a much simpler option.
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:44 AM   #105
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Why not just plug/cap the bits you don't need in the vents? Seems like a much simpler option.
what dan said.

or use some flexi pipes and clamps from blower box to vents.
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Old 12-02-2014, 07:23 PM   #106
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use some flexi pipes and clamps from blower box to vents.[/QUOTE]

This pretty much. I'll try and make fibreglass couplings.

Id describe the car as pretty naked now, i'm stripping everything i can down and making it is basic as possible. I may lose intermittent wipers soon...

Think simple hotrod circuits, bare bones interior, just what you need to legally drive.
No wussy interior light.

When i filled the dash vents i removed all the cr#p behind, brackets, etc in the pile.
In previous photos you can see the filled vents and the blower fan box left of the ecu /fuse panel. Thats pretty much all that remains aside from the screen vent itself.

Last edited by ghetto3; 12-02-2014 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:56 PM   #107
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That wussy interior light is a rwc requirement.
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Old 13-02-2014, 08:23 AM   #108
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Thats why it has earnt that affection.
It was kind of tongue in cheek..

If you've got the s3 wiring diagrams you can chase my circuitry in the photos.
Its a mirror of the oem setup.Theres a Bus bar before 100a main, and after, for mounting auto reset circuit breakers. I've condensed ig.2 and accessories into one fuse panel etc.
Crucial circuits like headlights have c.breakers.

Have a squizz at the two fuse boxes and the color of the ignition switch wires that are powering them...blue/black and red/black iirc.---ign.1/1g.2.

Last edited by ghetto3; 13-02-2014 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 15-02-2014, 03:13 AM   #109
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Progress shot.
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Old 15-02-2014, 05:05 PM   #110
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in that above shot I've hooked up the block/radiator to air separator lines back to front and neglected to hook up my oil/air separator lines too!
The wildwood clutch reservoir is just visible (not mounted yet) behind the mambo overflow bottle.
I got the engine timed up perfectly, my cas sensor and crank trigger wheel mounted and soon the whole setup with adaptronic begins. reading several different manuals from different ecu manufacturers has helped to have a better understanding of what needs to happen and why.

Last edited by ghetto3; 15-02-2014 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 17-02-2014, 09:48 AM   #111
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in that above shot I've hooked up the block/radiator to air separator lines back to front and neglected to hook up my oil/air separator lines too!
The wildwood clutch reservoir is just visible (not mounted yet) behind the mambo overflow bottle.
I got the engine timed up perfectly, my cas sensor and crank trigger wheel mounted and soon the whole setup with adaptronic begins. reading several different manuals from different ecu manufacturers has helped to have a better understanding of what needs to happen and why.
im very interested in how you are going to be able to change the trigger pattern from dizzy to CAS on the 440D. keep me posted
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Old 17-02-2014, 09:58 AM   #112
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Im reading about 'nyehs' right now! This is the only part of the build where i'm struggling- the ecu conlfiguration.
I plan to use the two tooth wheel in the mx5 cam angle sensor as a reset signal and the 12 tooth (every 30*) wheel for ignition event. The trigger wheel has an extra tooth which i would remove.
Garanteed if/when i get it sorted i'll help you out.
The itb wire in hasn't been too hard, it relies on only a few sensors...cam/crank trigger, air/coolant temp, tps and thats about it. Compared to rewiring the car it is a breeze!
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Old 17-02-2014, 10:06 AM   #113
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Originally Posted by ghetto3 View Post
Im reading about 'nyehs' right now! This is the only part of the build where i'm struggling- the ecu conlfiguration.
I plan to use the two tooth wheel in the mx5 cam angle sensor as a reset signal and the 12 tooth (every 30*) wheel for ignition event. The trigger wheel has an extra tooth which i would remove.
Garanteed if/when i get it sorted i'll help you out.
The itb wire in hasn't been too hard, it relies on only a few sensors...cam/crank trigger, air/coolant temp, tps and thats about it. Compared to rewiring the car it is a breeze!
ow wow your using an mx5 CAS trigger nice. i have the 36-1 wheel on my car and i have been told i can get away with just using that. will be interesting to see haha.
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Old 17-02-2014, 10:09 AM   #114
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I was hedging my bet so to speak by grabbing the cas sensor.
I'm pretty sure you can use just the trigger wheel though.
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Old 21-02-2014, 10:12 AM   #115
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The electric water pump hydro circuit has been tested and looks to be sweet. Also cranked engine over for 440 configuration. Much to do though.
Had an electric frypan of sorts under the engine with coolant sensor dangling down immersed in 125*c oil to do a temperature sweep for 440 to learn the resistance values.
Was definately an unnerving experience given the precarious setting.
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:56 AM   #116
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Still hard at it. Though it has been more of a forced chore than a pastime of late.
I went back to the orig. brake/clutch reservoir as i couldn't find an adequate mounting point for the wilwood reservoir.
Been researching the whole cops/cas/trigger wheel thing and think i've got it sorted, still a good chance it'll be a 20G bonfire though.
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:21 AM   #117
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Feel free to post up your config/take a pic and I will see if I can help you work your way through it.
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:54 PM   #118
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I'm playing with the setup wizard and triggering settings, still trying to find reliable information on my exact setup: 12+1 (or 12, or 12-1 by way of dremel) trigger wheel, cops, sequential ignition, direct fire coils, modified cas for reset signal.
Specifically which would be better option pertinant to trigger tooth specs (to dremel or not) which tooth to remove if need be and whether i'd need to clock the single tooth left in the cas to a specific angle in regard to trigger wheel.

Dang i miss carbys...well not really!
Your offer of assistance has kick started me again, thanks mate.
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:03 PM   #119
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Can you take a photo of the trigger wheel, and cas wheel pleasums?

Will moc it up sometime this week, see if our settings match.
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:14 PM   #120
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Mounted in place? I haven't got the correct crank trigger sensor mounted as yet but can take shot of crank wheel and cas (opened up) sitting at tdc.
will this help? Theres a good chance the cas could be 180* out of sinc.
Or did you mean screen shots?

Last edited by ghetto3; 04-03-2014 at 04:33 PM.
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