Random Question thread.. - Page 136

NaughtyGT · 11-01-2011, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkid

gear shift linkages bushes on the way out and not selecting gears properly (much free play?)
low oil maybe
is the cluch in good condition (any slippage and if there is how much)?

If it's difficult to get in 1st & crunches I doubt it is simply linkages. Sounds more like the clutch is shot. Fresh, how much peddle-travel has it got? Does it go straight to floor on occasion? If so, could simply need fresh fluid & bleeding. If it has very short peddle travel & you change the fluid & bleed properly (get shop to do if you aren't familiar with this) then, big chance your clutch friction plate is nackered.

Wouldn't hurt to try what mkid suggests though.......

so fresh · 11-01-2011, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NaughtyGT

If it's difficult to get in 1st & crunches I doubt it is simply linkages. Sounds more like the clutch is shot. Fresh, how much peddle-travel has it got? Does it go straight to floor on occasion? If so, could simply need fresh fluid & bleeding. If it has very short peddle travel & you change the fluid & bleed properly (get shop to do if you aren't familiar with this) then, big chance your clutch friction plate is nackered.

Wouldn't hurt to try what mkid suggests though.......

nah the cluch goes all the way in, its just the stick, after some time driving its hard to move into 1st when i come to a stop have to push it in twice as if im doin a double clutch

70NYD · 12-01-2011, 11:48 AM

Perhaps your forks for 1st are worn out?
Or the bushes..

michael0008 · 15-01-2011, 02:27 PM

anyone got a lantis v6 workshop manual ,mainly after the wiring diagrams cheers

NaughtyGT · 15-01-2011, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by so fresh

nah the cluch goes all the way in, its just the stick, after some time driving its hard to move into 1st when i come to a stop have to push it in twice as if im doin a double clutch

could be the master &/or slave cylinder? Why don't you get it looked at......

Ghoru · 17-01-2011, 09:00 AM

so this is gonna sound stupid
how do you do an oil change in a BG.
i have NEVER done anything like this but its something i want to learn so dont laugh at me.

bg astina · 17-01-2011, 11:18 AM

1: jack the car and put on car stands or move car onto ramps,
2: find the sump bot under the car, on the engine block I think its close to the back of the engine (make sure its not the transmission bolt, which is on the left for NZ cars if its manual
3: let all the oil run out into a bucket or something
4: unscrew the the oil filter (if your changing it) tip the oil in that out
5: replace the sump bolt (make sure its tight)
6: put some new oil in the new filter and on the rubber ring )
7: screw the filter on
8: put new oil into car
9: let it sit for about 30min then recheck the level with the dip stick and keep adding oil until its full.

(the oil filter is located under the intake manifold so might be a bit tricky to undo)

I need to do mine soon as well, next pay check buying oil and filter.

70NYD · 17-01-2011, 11:34 AM

Thats pretty much it
Just to add
Oil filter is easy to reach from underneath and if its hard to get a grip on use a rag to clean it then squeeze it and it should dint giving you a way to grip it. Jamming a screw driver thru it works as well since you will replace it with a new one. and the bolt is on the drivers side towards the rear on the sump

chewyryce · 17-01-2011, 02:07 PM

also. u dont need to add oil into the oil filter. just on the ring. and if you can replace the sump plug washer as well. sometimes the old one doesnt seal after being reused. and never work on a car unless you have car stands. last thing you want is to be squashed by a car

project.r.racing · 17-01-2011, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bg astina

9: let it sit for about 30min then recheck the level with the dip stick and keep adding oil until its full.

or you can run the car for 5 minutes. then left it sit for another 5 minutes. then re-check level, and re-fill if required.

buy an oil filter wrench from supercheapauto for $12. make the job a whole lot easier. mine is multi size, so i can use it for any type of filter.

chewyryce · 17-01-2011, 05:56 PM

dont forget to check the oil on flat ground or else it will give u a false reading and you may be putting too much or too little in

70NYD · 17-01-2011, 07:19 PM

another trivial thing to add is if the flat part of the dipstick (the face you read off) is facing front/back rather than side/side then one side will give you a lower reading while the other side will give you a higher reading due to the design of the dip stick (ie the full width groves) however if the dipstick faces side/side (as in the thin edge is facing front/back) then the reading will be even on both sides and more accurate

Cosmo Dude · 17-01-2011, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70NYD

another trivial thing to add is if the flat part of the dipstick (the face you read off) is facing front/back rather than side/side then one side will give you a lower reading while the other side will give you a higher reading due to the design of the dip stick (ie the full width groves) however if the dipstick faces side/side (as in the thin edge is facing front/back) then the reading will be even on both sides and more accurate

I normally remove the dipstick, clean it and put it back in before reading it. If the measure is vertical then it shouldn't matter if it isn't facing Mecca.

70NYD · 17-01-2011, 09:16 PM

I clean it to, and re check/clean it 3-4 times to get out as much error as possible, what I mean the reading is different on the two sides, since the dipstick enters the sump at a angle.. This would be fine if the reference lines weren't fully across the face sectioning Off and allowing the oil to pool in a area On the stick making it inacurate. Few mm on the dipstick can be a lot of oil in some cases.. I'm just a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to some things.

marcs_sp20 · 24-01-2011, 01:55 PM

where can you buy 3mm wheel spacers, and general prices?

yes I know they are illegal for anyone thinking

Thinking with the guards rolled, will give me a flush look

mynameisdaniel · 24-01-2011, 02:09 PM

eBay

3mm won't require you to get good quality. They're just round pieces of metal. If you go bigger you need to get hubcentric ones to retain some safety :P

70NYD · 24-01-2011, 03:54 PM

You should also invest in sone longer studs marc

Mad Mat · 24-01-2011, 03:55 PM

What's this for maggy???

Orion · 24-01-2011, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcs_sp20

where can you buy 3mm wheel spacers, and general prices?

yes I know they are illegal for anyone thinking

Thinking with the guards rolled, will give me a flush look

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70NYD

You should also invest in sone longer studs marc

3mm shouldn't require longer wheel studs. 5-6mm or above most likely will though.

marcs_sp20 · 24-01-2011, 07:03 PM

You're not going to believe this, some Protege guys on Mazdas247 reckon you can run 8mm spacer without having to replace wheel studs with longer versions!

Hmm, considering 5mm set now, oh and here is the current GB for hub-centric spacers on M247, only for 5x114.3 stud rims...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...-Spacers/page2

12-01-2011, 11:48 AM	#2703
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	Perhaps your forks for 1st are worn out? Or the bushes.. __________________

15-01-2011, 02:27 PM	#2704
michael0008 AstinaGT Regular Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: New Zealand Car: 1989 Astina GLX Posts: 288 View Photos By: michael0008	anyone got a lantis v6 workshop manual ,mainly after the wiring diagrams cheers __________________ crazy ant Last edited by michael0008; 15-01-2011 at 07:40 PM.

17-01-2011, 09:00 AM	#2706
Ghoru Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Rockhampton Car: '92 BG Astina Sp Posts: 999 View Photos By: Ghoru	so this is gonna sound stupid how do you do an oil change in a BG. i have NEVER done anything like this but its something i want to learn so dont laugh at me. __________________ BG Astina - work in progress.... Scooters are like fat chicks, fun to ride until your mates find out... NOS is like a hot chick with AIDS, you know you wanna hit that,your just afraid of the consequences... http://www.eveonline.com/

17-01-2011, 11:34 AM	#2708
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	Thats pretty much it Just to add Oil filter is easy to reach from underneath and if its hard to get a grip on use a rag to clean it then squeeze it and it should dint giving you a way to grip it. Jamming a screw driver thru it works as well since you will replace it with a new one. and the bolt is on the drivers side towards the rear on the sump __________________

17-01-2011, 07:19 PM	#2712
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	another trivial thing to add is if the flat part of the dipstick (the face you read off) is facing front/back rather than side/side then one side will give you a lower reading while the other side will give you a higher reading due to the design of the dip stick (ie the full width groves) however if the dipstick faces side/side (as in the thin edge is facing front/back) then the reading will be even on both sides and more accurate __________________

17-01-2011, 11:18 AM	#2707
bg astina Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Ashhurst, NZ Car: Mazda Astina 1990 Posts: 121 View Photos By: bg astina	1: jack the car and put on car stands or move car onto ramps, 2: find the sump bot under the car, on the engine block I think its close to the back of the engine (make sure its not the transmission bolt, which is on the left for NZ cars if its manual 3: let all the oil run out into a bucket or something 4: unscrew the the oil filter (if your changing it) tip the oil in that out 5: replace the sump bolt (make sure its tight) 6: put some new oil in the new filter and on the rubber ring ) 7: screw the filter on 8: put new oil into car 9: let it sit for about 30min then recheck the level with the dip stick and keep adding oil until its full. (the oil filter is located under the intake manifold so might be a bit tricky to undo) I need to do mine soon as well, next pay check buying oil and filter.

17-01-2011, 02:07 PM	#2709
chewyryce Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: NA MX5 Posts: 874 View Photos By: chewyryce	also. u dont need to add oil into the oil filter. just on the ring. and if you can replace the sump plug washer as well. sometimes the old one doesnt seal after being reused. and never work on a car unless you have car stands. last thing you want is to be squashed by a car

17-01-2011, 05:56 PM	#2711
chewyryce Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: NA MX5 Posts: 874 View Photos By: chewyryce	dont forget to check the oil on flat ground or else it will give u a false reading and you may be putting too much or too little in

17-01-2011, 09:16 PM	#2714
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	I clean it to, and re check/clean it 3-4 times to get out as much error as possible, what I mean the reading is different on the two sides, since the dipstick enters the sump at a angle.. This would be fine if the reference lines weren't fully across the face sectioning Off and allowing the oil to pool in a area On the stick making it inacurate. Few mm on the dipstick can be a lot of oil in some cases.. I'm just a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to some things. __________________

24-01-2011, 01:55 PM	#2715
marcs_sp20 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Ipswich, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon Posts: 9,769 View Photos By: marcs_sp20	where can you buy 3mm wheel spacers, and general prices? yes I know they are illegal for anyone thinking Thinking with the guards rolled, will give me a flush look __________________ Last edited by marcs_sp20; 24-01-2011 at 02:00 PM.

24-01-2011, 02:09 PM	#2716
mynameisdaniel Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Adelaide, Australia Car: 07 Subaru Liberty GT Spec B tuned by STi Posts: 912 View Photos By: mynameisdaniel	eBay 3mm won't require you to get good quality. They're just round pieces of metal. If you go bigger you need to get hubcentric ones to retain some safety :P __________________

24-01-2011, 03:54 PM	#2717
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	You should also invest in sone longer studs marc __________________

24-01-2011, 03:55 PM	#2718
Mad Mat HONEYWELL REPRESENT Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Salisbury - Inner City Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches Posts: 5,011 View Photos By: Mad Mat	What's this for maggy??? __________________ PROJECT "Catalina" 1994 323 BG Hatch 2005-2007 Crashed into truck 1991 323 BG Hatch 2007-2008/9 SOLD 2003 BJ SP20 J48 Hatch 2008-2011 Regretfully SOLD 1997 BA I4 Sedan 2012-CURRENT 1985 BF 323 Hatch 2014-2015SOLD 1989 MX5 2015-2015

24-01-2011, 07:03 PM	#2720
marcs_sp20 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Ipswich, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon Posts: 9,769 View Photos By: marcs_sp20	You're not going to believe this, some Protege guys on Mazdas247 reckon you can run 8mm spacer without having to replace wheel studs with longer versions! Hmm, considering 5mm set now, oh and here is the current GB for hub-centric spacers on M247, only for 5x114.3 stud rims... http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...-Spacers/page2 __________________