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Old 03-09-2006, 06:57 AM   #1
Mr.Obsessed
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ABOUT: Straight neck KLZE fits into a BA V6

Just want to say that the engine is in and straight neck fits in BA with minor modifications to intake and throttle/pulley..spread the word I used pulley form mx3 v6... no modifications needed to engine mounts but you could make new hole 1-1,5 cm lower in front engine mount and pull it forwards in that way you can get more space so millennia or eunos or whatever intake manifold is not needed.

Last edited by Mr.Obsessed; 05-09-2006 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 03-09-2006, 07:46 AM   #2
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Glad to hear its in
BTW whoever said the Millenia manifold was lower than the straight neck??
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Old 03-09-2006, 04:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedbatman
Glad to hear its in
BTW whoever said the Millenia manifold was lower than the straight neck??
My experience showed me that you shouldnít believe everything what ppl say on the net there are some retards that don't know what they talk about.. I also bought the curved neck so me and my friend we F... around with it for no reason on his car... just waste of money and time... and performance?

I filled my engine mounts with this product

http://www.henkel-lim.dk/dk/productDetail.php?recid=367

The black one and the engine is rock solid.. IT WORKS. Just to be shore that it doesnít bang on internals in the back of the car.

I also was scared that the bonnet would not close (heard it on the forums) it closed with NO problems there is like 1.5-2 centimetres to the rod that goes over the engine to the shocks.. I forgot what its called in English ...
I was so tired last night worked for 9 hours straight so the last thing i thought about was taking the pictures I will take some in short time don't worry

I began on electric also connected most sensors. Just curious what did ppl do with the EGR stuff? The sensor and the pipe that goes to the back header it does not exists on ZE its something to do with recirculation to lower emissions right.. so can I pass emissions test without it?
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:54 AM   #4
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JUst remember that the curved neck flows better than the straight neck and also shifts you torque band a bit lower (more bottom end is always a good thing)
your rod from top of shocks is a strut brace
And the EGR lines up to the back and underneath the curved neck manifold, I would assume this to be the same on the straight neck
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Old 04-09-2006, 04:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedbatman
JUst remember that the curved neck flows better than the straight neck and also shifts you torque band a bit lower (more bottom end is always a good thing)
Can you back that up with some proof/data?

As I said donít believe everything you read on the net.

No there is no egr on straight neck.
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Old 05-09-2006, 03:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Obsessed
Can you back that up with some proof/data?

As I said donít believe everything you read on the net.

No there is no egr on straight neck.
http://www.alljapanesecars.com/specs...6&mc=ge5s&gn=1
http://www.alljapanesecars.com/specs...0&mc=ta5y&gn=1
Is that good enough for you
Taken from http://www.alljapanesecars.com
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Old 03-09-2006, 12:52 PM   #7
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i require pics now!!! jkz
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Old 03-09-2006, 01:12 PM   #8
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Mr Obsessed, a pix would be highly appreciated.

A lot of interested ppl here.

Cheers !
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:58 AM   #9
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Why does it look like an incorrectly installed throttle cable in the last pic
We dont have clearance issues wth the Brake Master cylinder here as ours is on the drivers side
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Old 10-09-2006, 06:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedbatman
Why does it look like an incorrectly installed throttle cable in the last pic
We dont have clearance issues wth the Brake Master cylinder here as ours is on the drivers side
I fabricated the system for the throttle cable.. I had to raise it abit to make it open 100%

Oh yes I forgot that makes it even easier
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Old 11-09-2006, 09:03 AM   #11
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i probably have the system layout in the workshop manual.

but im moving house at the moment so it'll be a while before I dig my way through to the box that its in
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Old 12-09-2006, 10:12 PM   #12
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That engine is freakin' sweet. If you've fitted it into a BAV6 will it fit in the 1.8? Or is that wishful thinking? I'm assuming the engine mounts are the same? But maybe i assumed wrong.
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Old 13-09-2006, 04:47 PM   #13
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All the same through the K series engines (are you talking K8 v6 BTW)
4 cyl is a different kettle of fish
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Old 13-09-2006, 05:08 PM   #14
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I'm confused.

Mr. Obsessed has put a KL-ZE 2.5L V6 in BA Astina 2.0L hatch. I wanna put the same engine into my BA 1.8 hatch. Has it been done before? Is it possible? The two cars are very similar, but are the engine mounts the same?

Thanks.
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Old 13-09-2006, 05:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLiP
I'm confused.

Mr. Obsessed has put a KL-ZE 2.5L V6 in BA Astina 2.0L hatch. I wanna put the same engine into my BA 1.8 hatch. Has it been done before? Is it possible? The two cars are very similar, but are the engine mounts the same?

Thanks.
No.. the 2 cars 1.8 and v6 only share same chassis thatís it...It would be cheaper/smarter to get an v6 and take it from there. If not you must change the whole brake system/wiring/tranny etc.
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Old 13-09-2006, 05:54 PM   #16
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when buying a BA astina, the difference in price of the second hand models is so small its makes the v6 the best buy in my opinion.

there is plenty you can do with the 4cyl to get more power out. The question really is - is it worth the price ?
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Old 14-09-2006, 03:45 AM   #17
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You should actually put it down too. Do want turbo or not.

Because simpley once you bolt in the largest most powerfull N/A v6 the 2.5L Ze - where do you go to get more ? - yes I know you will say this that this and that but, How much for Cam's ECU - how much gain. Not many V6's going N/A making much more then 220HP flywheel. Most problery onyl making 210HP flywheel here in Australia.
with what 250NM ?
Now with the BP you giving away an easy 700cc or so. but using the BPT you easliy get the torque with an exhaust fitted.
But once you get 220HP out of the BPT at flywheel which is not much really for BPT.
When you do go further which has been done and is easily achived. you do run into a common problem ?

GEARBOX. which even with 220HP at the flywheel you would have run into by then or maybe not so but you will do so

Now you might say yeah but V6 is cheaper - IS IT ?
no conversion is cheap.
I've mostly only been on RWd conversion with the odd FWD here and there but in most cases i've always said why not buy it in the first place.

for example cost a of BA v6 versus GE Mx-6/626. if you want a KL-ZE the Mx-6 626 is much easier swap and - the weight penltey on 626 hatch is not much (Mx-6 is alot lighter) especially if you add in the fact you move up to a nicer bigger car versus the BA. I have BA sorry they are cheap in comaprisson to the 626 series. Even the older 626 has much better feel, but yet old.
but look at the current 2nd hand prices,

I'm not putting down anyone doing it. In fact I say GOOD ON YA.

If I had the time and was not restricted to turbo only ( I'm stuck with turbo or V8)
Well I might do it. but as I don't use the Astina, I bought it for my mother to use. I t can stay but I do look out for a KL-ZE auto package.

Next thing Supercharge it or if you want Turbo the bastard
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Old 14-09-2006, 08:16 AM   #18
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You want fast car get one "faster" car from factory and tune it....Im not big fan of sticking big turbos on small engines and boosting it to peaces..KLZE in not eather the perfect candidate for turbo as it has high compression but eunos the 175 engine hp is perfect for turbo..But I did drive some fun turbo cars... In my opinion KLZE conversion gives you power but still a car that you can drive many miles vacation etc. without you worrying if it breaks or anything+ KLZE is the cheapest hp for the money.. Still its "NOT" cheap but by far the cheapest reliable upgrade you can get for our cars.

Watch out where you get the engines there are companies selling "fake" klze's as they are dying breed. They get KLDE engines and stick JDM intake manifold on it.. And remember for every KLZE car that was sold every 5 was an curved neck so there is greater risk that youíll end up with eunos engine with 175 hp it you order curved neck from start.

Last edited by Mr.Obsessed; 14-09-2006 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 14-09-2006, 02:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Obsessed
You want fast car get one "faster" car from factory and tune it....Im not big fan of sticking big turbos on small engines and boosting it to peaces..KLZE in not eather the perfect candidate for turbo as it has high compression but eunos the 175 engine hp is perfect for turbo..But I did drive some fun turbo cars... In my opinion KLZE conversion gives you power but still a car that you can drive many miles vacation etc. without you worrying if it breaks or anything+ KLZE is the cheapest hp for the money.. Still its "NOT" cheap but by far the cheapest reliable upgrade you can get for our cars.

Watch out where you get the engines there are companies selling "fake" klze's as they are dying breed. They get KLDE engines and stick JDM intake manifold on it.. And remember for every KLZE car that was sold every 5 was an curved neck so there is greater risk that youíll end up with eunos engine with 175 hp it you order curved neck from start.

That is very true want a fast car buy it but. As for reliablity comes from one thing CASH. why becasue it's about maintance, even a new car can become unreliable after 5 years due to thigns breaking etc. This is why Most reliable car has had everything changed everything fixed everything done.
My Mx-6 is more relialbe then the Astina and yet ones is modded the other stock. all because one has had money thrown into it head to toe. Has no problem takeing 1 bar boost built to take 2.5 bar no worries. but it's not tuned out, it's not driven into the ground. None of the K series are good candidates for FI due to size/location. but mild boosting can easily be done.

As for no KLZE's heaps just no one brings them in. What you want now is to find a GW capella wagon/cargo FRONT CUT. they come with auto but as a microtech is so cheap who cares about ECU. they were the last model to use KL-ZE upuntil the MAZDA6
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Old 14-09-2006, 05:10 PM   #20
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Its an risky swap every swap is.. You could end up with bad engine.. Ask for warranty and check for people who got it from company/seller ask them to do compression test etc.

As for pricing here in Europe there is no big difference between v6 and 1.8.That extra cash you use to get an v6 is well spent.. look at new prices what did 1.8 cost at the time and v6 it was more expensive by over 30%.And in some countries its illegal to turbo and non turbo car without getting it tested.
No sound can beat an angry V6 engine or V8, maybe its just me but I thought my 2.0 v6 sounded good but this is pure sex to you'r ears ZE with racing headers mmm first time i fired it up it sounded like a angry panther lol

As for other costs.. Look at it this way.. you decide how much you want to change at the same time and what you want to do with the engine you want 220+ hp or little less. You could get just engine and drop it in. But there are million of small things you must get and they add up.. The basic most important things are timing belt/pump sparks/ fluids filters etc and of course clutch. I got exedy stage 1 clutch and its perfect.

I got the engine from

http://feedback.ebay.com/ebaymotors/...:feedback:1:us

http://enginesus.com/inside.html

And im happy with my purchase. We had some problems with shipping company.. They wanted to rip me off for 300$ and he got trough for me he contacted them several times and ending up paying them the amount.. He could say hey **** it let him deal with it but he didnít.
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