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15-12-2015, 04:46 PM | #21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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I've rung a local mx5 specialist place called Automotive Plus and was able to score some in good condition replacement panels. So that's sorted, just need to vacuum up all the loose rust and clean the parcel shelf. As well as rub it back with a wire wheel, throw some rust converter on it and then put many layers of rust guard primer on it
Hopefully that solves the rust issue? Had the day off friday as I needed to do some running around to pickup gearbox, engine mounts and get a flange cut. Wasn't able to get the flange cut, wasnt able to pickup the gearbox as they hadn't finished yet and the engine mounts weren't finished at the powder coaters despite assurances from both gearbox and powder coaters that they would be finished. The day wasn't a complete loss, as I was able clean the engine bay, here are some before shots: And this is what it looked like after a an hour or two: As you can see from the last picture also installed my new charcoal filter: Sooo much smaller and neater now
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17-12-2015, 09:45 AM | #22 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
Posts: 5,011
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they bay is sexy
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17-12-2015, 11:18 AM | #23 |
Senior Member
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Looking good dude.
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18-12-2015, 11:31 PM | #24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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Thanks gents.
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30-12-2015, 12:22 PM | #25 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
Posts: 5,011
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Update time i think
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14-01-2016, 11:23 AM | #26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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Finally finished uploading photos, so the latest update
New heater core grommets arrived for the firewall as mine were in less then stellar condition: This was painful to find. So the short of it is that a FS engine uses a smaller diameter pipe leading into the thermostat, as such I'd need to find a method of reducing from the mx5 radiator diameter to the fs diameter. Some of the options were far to complex, in my stubborn ness I knew there had to be something out there that would fit off the shelf. After many hours of googling and searching turns out it was far easier then I thought, a off the shelf bp 1.8 miata cover appeared to work. After getting my friends to double check that I hadn't gone crazy, it turns out it should be perfect. Quick eBay search and i had a brand new cover on its way from miatamecca in the states: Went to swap the fuel pump and the screw on the end that holds the pump in had already been mangled a bit, consequently the softened metal just came away when attempting to undo. Cookie to the rescue, he was able to use a punch to punch a new head onto the screw: With that fixed, the pump installed and fuel system complete. Shot of the built engine finally in: Next thing to work out and complete are the water lines: I can't remember how they used to go, so will need to work that out and then source some rubber to suit.
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14-01-2016, 05:58 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: wollongong
Car: 99, BJ 323 astina hatch
Posts: 1,506
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Looking good man
Motor fits mint. Not far to go
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Cars .. 1: 241kw Turbo 1999 BJ 323 Astina . 2: 1983 ke70 Corolla. 3: 2011 PK Ranger Wildtrak (tow car ) |
15-01-2016, 10:28 PM | #28 | |
SP20 Member!
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Quote:
For the coolant lines, this is how I think they would go: - top line across the front of the engine (passenger side for you) goes to the out from the cabin heater core; - bottom line across the engine is the one with the elbow that goes to the water neck; - the front of the water neck goes to the in side of the radiator (you will need a fairly long hose for this); and - the back of the water neck would go to the in side of the cabin heater (you will need loop the line 180 degrees). I think this is the right but the only thing that might be wrong is that the cabin heater outlets would need to be swapped. Looking forward to more updates.
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Exhaust: Autoexe headers; Custom midpipe; Racing Beat catback Engine: AWR mounts; Twiggy cams; Custom CAI; RR Racing UDP; Mishimoto rad EMS: Microtech LT-10; J&S Safeguard; Gearbox: MSP LSD; Fidanza flywheel; 5th gear Rims/Suspension: MX-5 rims; Tokico Illuminas; Eibach Pro-kit; Progress RSB; AutoExe STB Exterior: MSP front lip & rear spoiler; Matt V headlights; AutoExe grill; EDM tails Interior: JVC AVX-77; Autometer gauges; DaveBs; B&M shifter Projects to come: Engine rebuild |
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11-02-2016, 09:14 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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Had a pretty ****ty day the other week, was filling the engine with oil and found the following after about 15 minutes:
Leaking from the bottom of the fan. Its hard to see but a pin hole leak near the weld for the round hole was the cause: Bit of a saga with water lines, after installing new thermostat inlet, I went to purchase a freeze plug for the thermostat side waterline. In order to do so I needed the inner ID of orfice, in doing so I found the small water leak i used to have: It's hard to see but it actually continues into the thermostat recess. So i need a new one of those now Contacted the fabricator to have him repair the sump, was actually pretty happy. Soon as I said it leaked, he straight up accepted and repaired it without any fuss or drama. Was a refreshing change. Still sucked as I had to ask a friend to tow and hire a trailer The car is now at automotive plus, to have intake runners fabricated for the jenveys. Need to track down a thermostat housing and a freeze plug and finish some wiring after I get the car back. I keep telling myself soon, but at this rate sometime next year seems more plausible...
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13-02-2016, 10:15 AM | #30 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car: Mazda SP20
Posts: 19
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Sucks about the issues mate, But you will get there. Love this project.
I might of missed something, why did you go FSDE over say something like an FE3? |
13-02-2016, 10:30 PM | #31 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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Quote:
If I was to consider any engine swap again into an na MX5, it'd probably be a built BP or something Honda (more likely). While I don't have anything against FEs, they are out of the box only really suited for turbo applications, so a rebuild would be required to eek out everything you can NA wise. The bore/stroke ratio would make for a better starting point. And if I was to spend that sort of coin, it'd be better to get something honda powered, throw a mild cam in it and be done
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26-04-2016, 01:09 PM | #32 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
Posts: 5,011
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Updates please
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28-04-2016, 01:43 PM | #33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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Been a while since I've updated and alot has happened. Personal life has been super busy and works been pretty flat out, so here goes a mammoth post of epic proportions:
I placed an order months back for some NA R Package tie rod ends: Haven't had a chance to install them yet though :roll: Also received some new Phillips Extreme Vision bulbs arrived today to replace what I believe are infact candle powered bulbs at the moment. Should make a massive difference to night time driving! So rather then trying to adapt the traditional two cooler pipes to suit the mx5, thought i might try and go back to a single hose. I can't for see any negative impacts as one of them gets closed off when the thermostat opens.... So measured up and ordered some freeze plugs and thankfully they fit: Looks nice and neat too. Now i just need to get it back out to freeze it and put some glue/sealant around it :wink: :lol: Progress shots of the ITBs at the fabricators: Unfortunately the angle means that the rail has to be run without the spacers need to run a full length injector, lest I foul on the bonnet. This means I *have* to run a Pico injector. Luckily I hadn't ordered full size ID's (725.60.14) yet, thankfully ID have fairly recently released an injector for the GM LS engines which is based off an EV14K injector. If i remove the hat that makes it a drop in replacement for GM engines I should be able to use it, I think. Part number is 850.48.14 if anyone is wondering from memory. Also has the neat side effect of it being a neater setup. Also managed to get my injector loom back off the guy I sold the engine too. Super nice of him <3 And on Saturday just gone i got the car back . Due to the angle on the head and the intake manifold having no angle built in the back plate and filter failed to clear the bonnet. Unfortunately lack of room to really angle the manifold to get the necessary clearance, so no filter it is! In hindsight should of just jumped into solid works and had a manifold cnc'd. Wouldnt have looked as cool and sounded as cool though I suppose. In the meant time I've been very busy, I've received a bunch of parts from aeroflow for my fuel system and catch can setup. e85 safe fuel fittings: notice the olive for the ptfe inner. Car back home, room mate was super nice and allowed me to use garage so that I'm working out of the sun Working out the placement of various accessories: Cluttered much: Picture of what the engine bay will kinda look like after everything is said and done: Also notice my escalade water reroute hose Using mx5 nb8b IIRC water inlet neck, trial fitted and looks to work so bolted on:
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28-04-2016, 01:44 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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Oil Filter Relocation has found a home to live:
Bought some 90 degree AN10 fittings for going out of the oil return on the girdle and for use between the Pressure Release Valve and the Oil relocation fitting. Waterhouse cut to size: Pipe had gotten rusty so, rubbed it back using a stainless steel bit and then painted it, only to realise it was way to long: Then most of Sunday was spent putting together the POS Jenvey stuff. Not only did i have to cut 2/3 of the bolts to size, they've given me the wrong size bolts for the air horns, the tps adapter kit didn't fit so had to adapt it to work. And then when I was assembling the throttle linkage, some of the nuts and bolts needed to be rethreaded as they just plain didn't work. Also the way in which the diagram said to assemble the linkage wouldn't work as it fouled on the vacuum fittings that were installed. So had to rethink how it was assembled, and swap a few pieces around etc. I don't have any photos of the in-between stages, but here are a few of the assembled product: This is how close it is to not fitting with various pieces altered and changed: This is how the throttles stand, till i can go to Bunnings and grab a few bolts that fit: Need to take some photos of the most recent progress, will attempt to do so tonight.
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28-04-2016, 01:57 PM | #35 |
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Just run those little filter socks on the ITBs.
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28-04-2016, 05:33 PM | #36 |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: n/a
Car: n/a
Posts: 10,929
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I like what you did with the oil filter location. Right next to the hot radiator. :P
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29-04-2016, 12:32 PM | #37 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
Posts: 5,011
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its in a good location for replacing but really thats the only location that was usable with out going over besides the headers and that is just a no no..
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08-05-2016, 11:05 PM | #38 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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Alot has happened, since I last updated this thread. I still need to take some better photos but everythings still a bit of a mess atm.
I've run all the vac lines for things like charcoal canister, brake booster, ecu. In order to do all of this I needed a vacuum distribution block, so one of those has been fitted: Great phone photo, seriously hate camera phone in anything approaching lots of light or no light. Just don't like using dlsr with dirty hands After about 2 days doing water hoses and few other very random and tedious things finally got those water hoses sorted. That is the best I'm going to get short of having some one make a hard line to replace it. Swapped valve covers to an earlier head valve cover: Borrowed a coil pack harness: Dodged up some wiring to get TPS signal so i can start the car: Made my own degree wheel: And somewhere around here is when it all started to go wrong. According to adpatronic you when running a 440 on a mx5 na loom you need to remove pin 1c as its a 12volt feed from the opening circuit. We didnt as we had got a car running without having to do so previously. Tracing down what seemed like grounding issues multiple times, increasing the earth strap thickness so as to eliminate the starter grounding through ECU: Pulled pin 1c and map etc started reading correctly when cranking. Prior to removing the pin i was seeing between 3-4 psi positive under cranking. Next issue was an almighty sound coming from the fuel tank area. Sounded like an extreme case of air in the pipes and was only generating 15psi of fuel pressure. Weird. Pull the pump inspect everything seemed fine. Progressively remove hoses from different places in the system (fuel tank, after fuel filter, engine bay) and everything is seemingly fine. Pull apart fpr twice, no everything is fine there. Not sure how but was lying in bed studying and had a sudden realisation that the sound i had been hearing was similar to the aforementioned air in pipe or the sound water makes passing a seal when its tight or only ever so slightly open. Pulled the pump out again to inspect the o ring, sure enough it'd migrated to the top of the pump assembly housing. Under pressure, the fuel was taking the least path of resistance, and being forced passed the o ring causing the seal to break. The kit came with two o rings, but the oem pump only had one. I only installed one thinking it was a mistake or spare. Foolish. Add the extra o ring and bam everything is right as rain. Now i just need to track down a triggering issue tomorrow night hopefully and I can start trying to start the thing Installed my No Pro washer bottle tonight and finished installing the interior and reassembling:
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08-05-2016, 11:09 PM | #39 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
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Quote:
Hopefully it continues anyways.
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10-05-2016, 03:41 AM | #40 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: north coast nsw
Car: 97 ba 1.8 323
Posts: 799
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Mate it's good to catch up on the progress of your build. I like your vacuum-manifold setup. If possible try and isolate the booster line from map sensor. There is some conjecture across the web on whether the boosters' demand corrupts the map signal. All i know is the engine ran way better when i separated the booster feed from the vac block that fed everything else. I did play with a few things in between tuning runs however so I'm not certain on how much the booster was to blame. I tapped only one of the blanks across the top of the manifold and inserted the original one way valve up in the new booster pipe.
Matt will tell you how good the brakes were! |
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