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Old 01-08-2009, 03:10 PM   #81
70NYD
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it is just surface rust as ryan pointed out before. he said that the pannels are zinc plated and therefore wont rust. hence what i said it looks like bugs
i have bout 30+ 1mm chips on both fenders and they are there for bout a year now.. havent rusted thru yet so my guess is that ryan is right (like on most other things he sais)

on a different note i just changed my O2 sensor and that + the pannel + the new distributor insulation plate means that i feel like i droped a whole new different engine in there. i never remember it having this much pickup.. also the FUKING BLACK SMOKE i had coming out of the exhaust is finaly gone curtesy of the new O2 sensor (the old one was fubard totaly) which should mean that the petrol gauge drops slower now
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:01 PM   #82
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Lol i remember when i first picked up my car, it was zippy and quick and now it feels slow , i think its the fact i'm not hooning it anymore lol might be the reason why i've done 320k at still at the 1/4 of a tank mark rather than 0/4:P
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:25 PM   #83
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it is just surface rust as ryan pointed out before. he said that the pannels are zinc plated and therefore wont rust. hence what i said it looks like bugs
i have bout 30+ 1mm chips on both fenders and they are there for bout a year now.. havent rusted thru yet so my guess is that ryan is right (like on most other things he sais)

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Old 01-08-2009, 04:29 PM   #84
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Rofl nicely put:P

my chip has rust though, i'll point it out to ryan or tony on a cruise
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:33 PM   #85
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lol duly noted
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:56 PM   #86
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well after changing my O2 sensor i am pleased to report that after trashing it for a week my consumption is still only 8L/100 km and thats compared to 10L/100km when the o2 was fubard this week im gonna baby it to c if i can get 6.5 like i used to haha awesome
and at cosmo if zinc plating is anything like how they place sacrificial zinc on a boat hull, it doesnt matter where it is as long as it is phisically conected to that piece of metal, its fine, as zinc gives its electrons more readily thru the host metal to the rusting reaction, saving the host
(note that on boats a slab of sacreficial metal is welded to a part of the boat where it will create the least amount of drag )
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:20 PM   #87
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hey tony what did that O2 sensor cost you? i'm going to run the codes but i'd say mine isn't in much better condition
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:27 PM   #88
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70 from astroboy
and as for codes lol my TEN conector is not sending any voltage thru it, so i cant enter diagnostics... i dunno what it is, but i tried diagnostics, and i shorted TEN to GND and FEN wasnt working, so then i checked the GND off the batery, and it was clearly working, then i checked the TEN and the bulb didnt light up.. dissapointing..
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Old 13-08-2009, 09:15 AM   #89
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hey tony, have u got a pic of your old and new o2 sensor for comparison?

i checked my sensor a couple of weeks ago and it looked ok but im always doing 10L/100km
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Old 13-08-2009, 11:28 AM   #90
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10L? I get 11-12L. Maybe I have deeper problems
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Old 13-08-2009, 11:33 AM   #91
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10L? I get 11-12L. Maybe I have deeper problems
Yeah, yours is Auto
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Old 13-08-2009, 12:12 PM   #92
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70 from astroboy
and as for codes lol my TEN conector is not sending any voltage thru it, so i cant enter diagnostics... i dunno what it is, but i tried diagnostics, and i shorted TEN to GND and FEN wasnt working, so then i checked the GND off the batery, and it was clearly working, then i checked the TEN and the bulb didnt light up.. dissapointing..
With "ignition on" there should be +12V at TEN terminal and FEN should be grounded through ~400 ohm resistance.

If its series 3 ECU then the light only comes on for less than a second (filament globe may not be quick enough to show the illumination, LED is best). If its series 2/1 ECU , the light comes on for 3 seconds.
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Old 13-08-2009, 02:36 PM   #93
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hey tony, have u got a pic of your old and new o2 sensor for comparison?

i checked my sensor a couple of weeks ago and it looked ok but im always doing 10L/100km
i dont have a pic i threw it out. question how in da hek did u just look at it, i had to pretty much take my radiator out to take the o2 sensor out, bloddy 22 size nut all the ringies i had were way too long..
it was black as charcoal and grey and looked like it came out of a fire..

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10L? I get 11-12L. Maybe I have deeper problems
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Yeah, yours is Auto
i thought his is a V6 from his picture (from the rims) but V6 auto sounds alot more fun haha
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With "ignition on" there should be +12V at TEN terminal and FEN should be grounded through ~400 ohm resistance.

If its series 3 ECU then the light only comes on for less than a second (filament globe may not be quick enough to show the illumination, LED is best). If its series 2/1 ECU , the light comes on for 3 seconds.
the car is a serius 2 so i assume that the ecu is as well.. going from what i found on this site i grounded out the the ten connector and then used a bulb from the fen to earth to get a reading, but as i said when i conected the bulb from ten to ground with a test light i got no light on, and if its a constant 12V from there it should of came on..
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Old 13-08-2009, 02:41 PM   #94
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i thought his is a V6 from his picture (from the rims) but V6 auto sounds alot more fun haha
Nah they're my old rims - 4 stud ones!
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Old 13-08-2009, 02:54 PM   #95
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i dont have a pic i threw it out. question how in da hek did u just look at it, i had to pretty much take my radiator out to take the o2 sensor out, bloddy 22 size nut all the ringies i had were way too long..
it was black as charcoal and grey and looked like it came out of a fire..
Hmmm not sure if the sensor is at a different position to yours cuz ive got Hurricane extractors and no heatshield. Theres heaps of space to loosen it with a wrench

Mine's pretty charcoal coloured, but the holes arent blocked. Im not sure if the colour matters. From what ive seen its only bad if the holes are blocked but yeah I dunno.
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Old 13-08-2009, 03:03 PM   #96
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well if thats the only thing than you can clean the holes, but if the ceramic filament inside gets caked its not gona work properly i dont think..
yeah thats prob the difference, its in a more thought out possition haha
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Old 13-08-2009, 03:34 PM   #97
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the car is a serius 2 so i assume that the ecu is as well.. going from what i found on this site i grounded out the the ten connector and then used a bulb from the fen to earth to get a reading, but as i said when i conected the bulb from ten to ground with a test light i got no light on, and if its a constant 12V from there it should of came on..
you connected the bulb from FEN to earth (or ground) .....wrong!! it should be from FEN to B+ (or positive terminal of the battery)....also the current draw from these terminals are very small so there may not be enough current to light up a filament bulb.....better use a 12V LED from Jaycar or 3.2V LED with 1k resistor in series (current draw is few milliamps).
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Old 13-08-2009, 03:51 PM   #98
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Hmmm not sure if the sensor is at a different position to yours cuz ive got Hurricane extractors and no heatshield. Theres heaps of space to loosen it with a wrench

Mine's pretty charcoal coloured, but the holes arent blocked. Im not sure if the colour matters. From what ive seen its only bad if the holes are blocked but yeah I dunno.
The charcoal colour is normal as it is constantly in contact with burnt hot gases. you are not meant to clean it with any chemicals. If the holes are open then its mechanically ok. The only way to test it electrically is to connect a voltmeter or a voltage bar graph to the sensor wire and see if the voltage fluctuates between 0.1 and 0.9 volts during closed loop operation. As the sensor gets older the frequency of fluctuation gets lower.
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Old 13-08-2009, 04:09 PM   #99
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you connected the bulb from FEN to earth (or ground) .....wrong!! it should be from FEN to B+ (or positive terminal of the battery)....also the current draw from these terminals are very small so there may not be enough current to light up a filament bulb.....better use a 12V LED from Jaycar or 3.2V LED with 1k resistor in series (current draw is few milliamps).
oh i c il try that again then, but when i conect the TEN to GND via a bulb should i get a light in the bulb??
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Old 13-08-2009, 04:40 PM   #100
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oh i c il try that again then, but when i conect the TEN to GND via a bulb should i get a light in the bulb??
well....when you connect TEN to GND via a bulb it may not light it up because TEN terminal is not a voltage source like a battery (even though its at 12V), so again not enough current to light up a bulb. If you have a multimeter you can check the voltage at TEN to be sure.
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