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10-11-2011, 12:02 PM | #381 |
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well if u do a similar set up with a low inlet (turbo side) and a hi outlet (intake side) on the intercooler (to get the cross flow that your looking for) then that should help with some off the issues. all u will need to do is turn the compressor housing to face downwards and BAZINGA u have a cool and relitivaly efficent setup.
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11-11-2011, 06:32 AM | #382 |
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This is what I'm contemplating now Mat. Yes, if I have hotside on bottom & coldside on top, it will fit but, ideally you'd want it the other way round wouldn't you?
Also, yes the comp snorkel needs to line up with whatever gets decided. On a side note, I'm getting a bit pussed @ my parts tasking so long to be done from Scandinavia. Kinda demanding now that I see some proof......a-hole! Very stressful having emails ignored & excuses all the time........... P.S. Mat, you may have the answer actually......will seriously look into having the hotside inlet @ the bottom. This way I won't have to move rad hopefully? Hmmmmm...............
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix Last edited by NaughtyGT; 11-11-2011 at 06:41 AM. |
11-11-2011, 07:55 AM | #383 |
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that second pic is a V-mount set up the radiator is a custom unit mounted lower and on an angle
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11-11-2011, 09:31 AM | #385 |
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The problem is, hot air rises right? So, having the inlet (hotside) on the bottom is less efficient.
Also @ buzz, thanks for the pic to clear this up. That 90 degree bend on the bottom tank outlet however is not good. A 2-step up as in 45/45 would be better. IC's lose there efficiency real quick with any sharp bends.
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix |
11-11-2011, 09:56 AM | #386 |
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I kinda get the picture it'd be best to just move rad over to the right the 3" & run the inlet pipe from top of IC straight along to comp snout which points out toward side wall of engine bay. This way I can simply run inlet pipe close to sidewall. Nice & neat with the extra room to create 45 degree elbows both from IC & comp snout......
Only obvious prob this way is rad hoses won't line up........oh well, compromise! Even though below is the old set up. If you imagine comp snout pointing to drivers side wall & IN inlet pipe coming out just below drivers side rad support.........outlet side to intake manifold will be the longest piping with more bends bugger it but I won't have the MSD ignition crap so will have more room!
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix Last edited by NaughtyGT; 11-11-2011 at 10:09 AM. |
11-11-2011, 10:35 AM | #387 |
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the 90 bend on the bottom is off the radiator though. the IC is at the top unless you are talking about the entry to the IC itself. Kevin (the guy who runs process west) can do custom intercooler set ups i am pretty sure. i understand the need for efficiency in bends thats why they should all be smooth flowing mandrel bends a sacrifice needs to be made at some point. how much efficience will you really lose with a single well made 90 degree?? the air into my TMIC has to do a full 180 degree turn but
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i am only here cause i miss my 323, and rupe White MY00 WRX with some good stuff to make it drive nicely . 13.74 @ 156km/h Beneraby Raceway 1:14.75 Wet Track @ Lakeside Park My Mazdaspeed 12a powered 1977 mazda 929 its progress http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t..._boy123/NYN29/ |
11-11-2011, 10:42 AM | #388 | |
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Quote:
Even with a TMIC sitting >10cm from the turbo i dont notice any loss of power from heat soak even sitting in the staging lanes at the drags. if your that worried put a cryo or water sprayer on it and use a thermo switch like for thermo fans or a hobbs pressure switch
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i am only here cause i miss my 323, and rupe White MY00 WRX with some good stuff to make it drive nicely . 13.74 @ 156km/h Beneraby Raceway 1:14.75 Wet Track @ Lakeside Park My Mazdaspeed 12a powered 1977 mazda 929 its progress http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t..._boy123/NYN29/ |
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11-11-2011, 10:49 AM | #389 |
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You'll want to put a shroud on that IC if you reuse it.. Otherwise most of your flow will just go around it.
Have you got any photos of how the new setup will be laid out & the inside of the bay?
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. '97 1.8L Hardtop '93 3.0L TT 3000GT |
11-11-2011, 11:58 AM | #390 | |
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Quote:
Won't be using that crap IC in pic & it's just in planning stage @ moment. The radiator has me fugged for now......
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix |
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11-11-2011, 03:05 PM | #391 | |
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Run a thick core radiator and cut out a little extra bumper just above the number plate is an option. Otherwise have you looked in air-water intercoolers? You seem to have plenty of space in there and you could run a long heat exchanger along the bottom of the front behind the plate
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. '97 1.8L Hardtop '93 3.0L TT 3000GT |
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11-11-2011, 03:37 PM | #392 | |
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The bonnet in closed position sits just above this subframe! So, effectively, about an inch behind the bar where you suggest to cut, is that subframe (you kinda wouldn't wanna hit it head on) Have looked into air-to water but It's starting to get a bit pricey with all the other stuff I need....... see pic below:
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix Last edited by NaughtyGT; 11-11-2011 at 03:47 PM. |
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11-11-2011, 08:48 PM | #393 |
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I may resort to cutting shat outta the front bar including subframe/rad support lugs. Then I'd have to weld or bolt an alternative ad support bar etc. Has been done but not sure of the finished look?
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix |
16-11-2011, 09:36 AM | #394 |
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Ok, think I've chosen which way to go with the intercoler/rad dilemma.
It's $700+ for a custom one the size I want but, there is one on Egay for $150 that will do the trick only, it is 50mm less in height bugger it. So I may just wait for now....... Anyway, I will be repositioning the rad to sit closer to engine to make room for the intercooler pipe routing to go around it. The inlet side piping will be 2 1/4" so, won't be that bad to fit. The outlet side will be 2 1/2" & has more room down low to fit so, all good! The bends are the problem as my aim is to keep them all no sharper than 45 degrees, which will be near impossible. Well it will be for the lower pipework where it will go around the rad support bracket. Progress though all the same. I reckon the planning/decision making is the most stressful part myself..... doh, also need to sort where the tranny cooler will go I may put it below the bottom IC outlet piping? One end needs to ook up to the rad cooler outlet & the other to the tranny inlet.....
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix Last edited by NaughtyGT; 16-11-2011 at 10:12 AM. |
16-11-2011, 12:34 PM | #395 |
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going from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 man thats going to make a nasty dop in air preasure...
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16-11-2011, 01:24 PM | #396 | |
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Both tank ends are 2 1/2" diameter but reason I want to reduce the inlet piping from comp snout to IC is to create less lag Incidentally, I chose not to get the top-to-bottom tank IC as the tanks would cause severe flow restriction to the rad. I have chosen a Delta Fin side tank IC with 500mm wide x 280mm high x70mm thick with 2.5" outlets. This way, IC will not block radiator at all really. Near perfect fit with about an 1" between IC & rad where I will seal space with dense foam & funnel air from grill to IC then to rad so there's little turbulance. This way I should have good cooling. Just need to sort exactly where I will mount the trans cooler?
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix Last edited by NaughtyGT; 16-11-2011 at 01:29 PM. |
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16-11-2011, 01:47 PM | #397 |
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i see.. but if u had a 2 1/4 in pipe on one side then on the other u have a 2 1/2 pipe side ur going to get some sort of preasure drop across the two. i did some rough calculations on pipe size and how much l/s or air you would get thru them and here is my answer.
2 1/4 = 2.46 l/s 2 1/2 = 3.02 l/s so ur loosing about half a ltr of flow going from the small sized pipe to the larger one... like i said this is just me kthink as i deal with pipes and flow rates at work. but thats over 2-4km runs
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16-11-2011, 02:29 PM | #398 | |
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To maybe clear this up a little, using the GT35R I have: Comp snout has ID of 2"/ OD of 2 1/2". Intake manifold TB has ID of 2 1/2". IC has 2 1/2" outlets. So, the IC outlet piping has to be minimum of 2 1/2" & no point being any larger. Going back to hotside, it has to be stepped up from the 2" comp snout outlet to the 2 1/2" IC inlet end anyway right? If I put 2 1/2" piping straight to comp snout I would have to use a step up silicone joiner. This would work if you were mainly after top-end power (more air flow) but I'm after quick spool & lowest lag I can get so, that's why I choose the narrower pipe to the IC
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix |
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16-11-2011, 02:46 PM | #399 | |
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sorry lol it makes sence now. im just in work mode lol. gt35 has only got a 2inch :0 thats a little small.
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16-11-2011, 03:15 PM | #400 |
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haha, that's the snout not the air intake flange. That's almost 4"
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