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Old 29-08-2011, 08:05 PM   #41
mikey_something
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I also ordered clear side indicators from Thailand today! Lol
If you open up the seat belt and are able to fix it up give us a quick tutorial. Mines started to retract a bit slowly.
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Old 29-08-2011, 08:28 PM   #42
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I also ordered clear side indicators from Thailand today! Lol
If you open up the seat belt and are able to fix it up give us a quick tutorial. Mines started to retract a bit slowly.
How much did you pay? I think mine were $24 delivered or something...apparently parts shops aren't allowed to sell any seatbelts anymore, due to idiots installing the wrong ones or using cheap nuts and bolts, so now I dunno where to get a new one if that's what's required... Any suggestions where to get one from? I know they'll be somewhere around $200 just cause they can be...
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Old 29-08-2011, 08:32 PM   #43
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Woah I am very impressed how quickly this has come together. To be honest I missed this thread earlier good work man, keep it up
Just to mention, you can't legally 'fix' a seat belt, and why the hell would you.. You wouldn't wear a broken condom right?
Besides if you manage to open it up completely without breaking anything have fun with the spring haha

Get the coilovers from Ryan, the timing is almost too perfect
Good luck it will be a great car when finished

On where to get one from
http://www.apvautomotive.com/safetyp...Automotive_SA/
When I worked my old job, a lot was to do with seatbelts fortunately. Klippan(autoliv) from memory do alot of the Australian cars as they are ADR approved
For a fastener you need a 5/8 unf high tensile bolt, but it should come with the kit from autoliv along with the washers and spacers if required.
The ELR type seatbelts can only be installed one way, so if you put the wrong side in it won't work straight up
Best of luck man
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Old 29-08-2011, 08:52 PM   #44
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Most common is the top loop the seat belt goes through gets a wax / dirt build up on it , scrape it off and the seatbelt will be ok
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Old 29-08-2011, 08:53 PM   #45
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Coils are sold... Just looked on my phone on the website and only listed up to 1995? Code was KW1-7704... Ill check dimensions later, can you buy from them or via someone else? Thanks Tony.

Regarding identification on the roads, would "ZM ZOOM" in white and black look the goods?
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Old 31-08-2011, 11:41 AM   #46
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at home, buggered back. sucks...alot... will have a look at my seatbelt and if its not easily cleaned then ill get this one: KW1-7704.


trying to get more info on modifications and the quality of repair required to the rear (word on teh interwebs is that they will measure everything and it has to be perfect to stock measurements...which would be a heck of a lot harder than my rough but still safe method of bashing it out into the rough shape and hiding it with trim!) anyway we shall see.
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Old 31-08-2011, 12:12 PM   #47
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ok, so i finally found something useful on the qld transport site, the list of mod plates available, the test sheets which are filled out by the engineer as well as all of the specific rules surrounding them. so its easy to figure out what mod plate i need (for engine swap) and what i need to do right....

i wish!
from here: http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/b3...reductions.pdf


for example: LA3 refers to an addition of a turbo/supercharger added to an existing engine (i.e. swap out a gtx into mine, get it checked at DOT and change engine numbers, without the turbo bolted on, go home, bolt on turbo, off to engineers, get a LA3 plate bolted on, back to DOT to report the change and wala...) well not really...









all pretty basic, but what stands out as a red flag is: "was the vehicle available with a turbo charged engine?" which is NO, so going by that I have to apply for a different plate -classed as a engine swap perhaps...

it would be fantastic if i could in fact use this plate as it would not require emissions testing as far as eye (I?) can see...it also states i must use either an optional engine as offered or the original engine...depends whether they mean phyical engine or same make of engine (i.e. from a BG or familia as a BP)
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Old 31-08-2011, 01:00 PM   #48
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also, found something of interest for people with MS seats requiring engineering...

"Seating & Seat Belts

All seating, seat belt and child restraint modifications must use approved parts:-

Seats must comply with ADR 3 or VSB 5a/b – see links in “Contact Us”
Seat belts must comply with ADR 4, AS 2596, E, ECE, EEC marked.
Child restraints and anchorages must comply with ADR5, ADR 34

Mounting of seats, seat belts and child restraint anchorages must be in accordance with vehicle codes of practice – please contact us for information.

DB Autotech can design and test seats to VSB 5a/b (National Codes of practice for seat manufacture - see links in “Contact Us”). In the past we have designed, tested and approved folding seats in the back of prime mover cabs and passenger vehicles."

no idea how much itll cost, but i will call these guys tomorrow and see what they can do for me in regards to mod plates for various stuff...
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Old 31-08-2011, 02:26 PM   #49
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or read the Code Of Practice for Qld vehicles. Especially section LA3. all turbo mods only require good engineering to be an allowable modification. using stock parts which all have been used previously and passed ADRs make the job easier.
You finally found something useful on the website?

p.s. Don't look at what is allowable for 4WD vehicles, you car ain't 4WD.
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Old 31-08-2011, 07:05 PM   #50
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see, thats what was a little strange, thats the entire section on LA3... emailed DB engineering in sailsbry, hopefully he can give me some prices on mod plates and some guidance.

on a more productive note, managed to remove the steering wheel and airbag without injury, the front dash and get to the guage cluster. 1/2 through swapping the dials i bought and now a little confused, it seems as though you overlay them ontop of the originals, becuase the holding/resting pin is permanantly melted to the original...

good news is that i got all 4 needles off without damaging them - YAY.



can someone please do a chop for me? white hatch, with 16 inch MS tourings....





onto a white hatch?

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Old 31-08-2011, 08:54 PM   #51
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I didn't remove the needles and yes they just go over the top
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Old 31-08-2011, 09:47 PM   #52
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can someone please do a chop for me? white hatch, with 16 inch MS tourings....
This do?



Back wheel is a bit wonky, but I'm doing uni work atm and without a better shot, best I could do!
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:27 AM   #53
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I recon that looks awesome. Better than I expected, thanks!
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:46 PM   #54
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I recon that looks awesome. Better than I expected, thanks!
No worries, love the MS Touring rims. They look the nuts against the white!
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:28 PM   #55
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MC6q_-2rfI

heres a video of my new dials waiting to go in. still need to drill holes for the wiring and mount it in the car but a quick bench test to satisfy peoples interest... from www.moman.pl quite expensive but isnt everything! painted the needles with a translucent paint designed for putting on ceremic cups and whatnot. without baking it (for obvious reasons) it stays soft, making it easier to scrape the unwanted stuff off the sides. using masking tape would have been almost impossible!

repainted my bumper too, with moderate sucess.
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:45 PM   #56
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so ive picked up a gearbox, painted my dials, let me know what you think!

still have to reconfigure all the messy wiring, clean the interior, and get motivated to fix that rear damage! ive got until my birthday to get it done aparently, and have the other one sold... according to dad... hours of research to do before then.. and hundreds of dollars too. good thing is that i am still enjoying the process!
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:11 PM   #57
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Need more pics! Gauges look great!
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:02 PM   #58
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oops. forgot to put it up lol. sidetracked.... sigh.
as you can probably see, with my $120 video camera photos (which are average!) the needles are barely pushed on. let me know what you think, and what could be better.
Daytime:

Night-time!




Needles only:


side view at the moment:

hopefully, my back permitting I can remove the dash and remove all superceeded cabling from the immobilizer, and get it the dimming module wired up and changed to suit if required. Fix or replace the seat belts, if I have the option of getting red coloured ones, is that too over the top? Not sure over the white MS seats! The silver will hopefully blend with the polished sills and door handles. Won't go so far as spraying the dash or trim though. Makes the whole car look cheap IMHO...
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:49 PM   #59
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If you ever get the gauges dimming in sync with the other lights, give me a buzz and a wiring diagram. I've tried every combo of the 4 wires on the dimmer roller and the best I got was them dimming inversely (one bright one off and vice versa)
I assume it's the way each one reacts to dimming.
One is voltage dimmed and one is current dimmed *I think*
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:04 PM   #60
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Both voltage dimmed. Look at my YouTube video. I'll just wire it to the PCB on the back, might be easier, then attach the tranny to the cluster too. Make it easier to install. Already soldered the three dials onto a single connector. Need to get some whiter bulbs too if I can.
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