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Old 05-10-2011, 07:53 PM   #61
jesiotrot
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Have they checked and rechecked the cam timing? Maybe they put the belt a few teeth out on one cam, that would cause a similar issue.

You should not be mixing and matching electrical and injection parts, just use all of your original ones. If its running lean use a fuel pressure reg to up the fuel pressure. The injectors between FP and FS may run different impedance, especially if they were built in different years or series car, the ecu will not be able to control injectors with an impedance that varies too far from stock ones.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:57 PM   #62
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Couple of things:

1. What your doing and what phil did are two different things. Phil dropped in an fs-ze that has no wiring diagrams published in english. He swapped OBDI for OBDI youve gone from OBDI to OBDII, im unsure besides diagnostic port how there different internally. What phil had trouble with was turning over

2. The only reason a Haltech will fix the issue is you can override the ECU, the problem still exists. Potentially could end badly even then, if somethings being misread currently then thats hardly going to change with new computer is it?

3. Have you tried the FS ecu yet?

4. AFAIK there different yes. They read differently IIRC.

5. That idles fine, myself and phils cars both idle at that.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:29 PM   #63
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I agree with what the others have said.
Im not a mechanic im a computer technician. but I have good general mechanical and electrical knowledge.
The only thing I can think that we did diferently other than use a FS-ZE was that I also used the FS-ZE MAF with the FP-DE ECU.
I had problems as my ECU was faulty and wouldn't kick the VICS over so I made my own controller and everything worked perfectly, other than running a little rich my FP ECU ran my car beautifully.
I have no clue as to why my car is different to yours.
If you have the FS-DE ECU loom and ECU it has to be possible to get it working, it should also be possible to get the car running with the FS-DE ECU and FP loom, it will require a little fiddling with wires and such but it is possible and with maztechs help im sure its possible, I found the wiring diagrams so it must be possible to do it.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:33 PM   #64
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FS ECU ($1000) was going to require the FS Loom to be wired in. With that in mind I figured I may as well go for the Haltech as it needs to be manually wired into whatever loom is in the car. Yes, potentially a little expensive, but also potentially a better outcome performance wise. Also I would suggest that I will see any misreadings easier with the Haltech than either OEM ECU.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:52 PM   #65
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Any other mods done to the car? Do them before you put the haltech on otherwise youll need a retune every time you add something.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:02 PM   #66
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Your being ass pounded by someone. I was quoted $150-250 for a FS-DE ECU.
I have just closely looked at the wiring diagrams for the two engines and have seen how majorly different they are.
The FS-DE and FP-DE have completely different ECU connectors so you will need the harness and the plugs are going to have to be swapped and rewired.
Not impossible. Just time consuming and you need the right diagrams and a good auto electrician.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:02 PM   #67
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The only things I have had done was to replace the air intake with a POD filter and of course the exhaust. The guys did mention that it is quite possible that the car was running lean before when I had the old motor. In fact it may have been the cause of the giant crack in the block. Apparently when you run lean cylinders can overheat? They advised that it is possible that one or two cylinders were running hot which has caused the block to crack. Not sure.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:07 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phildough View Post
The FS-DE and FP-DE have completely different ECU connectors so you will need the harness and the plugs are going to have to be swapped and rewired.
Not impossible. Just time consuming and you need the right diagrams and a good auto electrician.
Thats why I gave up on the FS ECU. Without either getting a FS Loom wired in or re-wiring a Connector it wasn't going to happen. Thats why I decided on the Haltech. At the end of the day to get the Haltech in it needs to be custom wired anyway.

As for the FS ECU price. I have seen the same charge on a US Online site as what they quoted me so I'm not surprised. It was a new ECU not a junkyard one!!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:08 PM   #69
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$1000 for FS-DE is alot.
Just get a second hand one from a wrecker..
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:11 PM   #70
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I agree with jess that there may be an issue with the impedance on the injectors between the FP and FS.

Here are my thoughts:
- getting a Haltech will not "fix" anything. You will simply be removing the problem by removing the ECU from the fuel and timing equation. It will make it more difficult to diagnose the problem
- larger injectors will be a hinderance. The stock FS injectors are fine for the turbo cars in the US, so they will certainly be fine with anything you have going on there.
- increasing the fuel pressure may get the engine running a bit richer but its a brutal way of doing it. Not recommended

If you do not need the car in a hurry, it may well be worth getting it home and trying to sort out the FS-DE ECU to work on the FP-DE loom. You will need some help from the people on here but they have done this before. It will also need some patience and perseverence on your part.

Hope it all works out
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:17 PM   #71
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We have tried both injectors, FP and FS. Made no difference. It must be something else. The Cam Belt was an interesting thought.

The price on the ECU is cause my F'n car is an AUTO!!!!!! Phil's right, the MANUAL version is nearly a third of the price. BASTARDS!!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:22 PM   #72
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Please don't ask me WHY I would be pimping an AUTO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:25 PM   #73
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Tell your mechanic to check to make sure he didnt put the TPS on upside down. If its auto and they did this it will cause it to constantly be changing up gears because its thinks you arent applying much throttle. Unless it has a cable kickdown, which I doubt it does going by the year of the car.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:36 PM   #74
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Have you tried another FP-DE ecu in your car as it may have been what killed the old engine, It may be running the engine super lean causing it to overheat???
Mine was faulty and VICS didn't work.
Also check that a previous owner hasn't fitted one of those ebay kits that trick the ecu into thinking its colder than it is.
That could create havoc in this case.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:36 PM   #75
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Funny you mention that. What I did find on my drive home was that it was staying in gears. For Example you take off at the lights, run through first gear and into second. If half way through second you take your foot off the gas it would hold the revs and the gear. Normally (in the past) when you take your foot off the gas the revs would drop down or it would change up gears. Now it holds the gear and the revs. Once you get back on the gas and accelerate it will run through second and into third.

Its NOT running all the way to redline in every gear. It still changes up at the right time according to your acceleration.

The other thing I noticed is if I did take my foot off the gas and she held gear and I tapped the brake, then the revs would drop out.

Also, normally when braking to stop in an auto the transmission seems to aid in the braking process by dropping gears and slowing the vehicle. It seemed like when my foot was on the brake the revs would just drop out to an idle so it was only the brakes slowing the car.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:39 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phildough View Post
Also check that a previous owner hasn't fitted one of those ebay kits that trick the ecu into thinking its colder than it is.
That could create havoc in this case.
Phil, I may be a sucker but I have got one of those kits on my air intake. When I did the pod filter I remove the intake air temp sensor and used a simple "bush mechanics" trick of hooking up a transister of a certain impedance that tells the ECU that the air going into the intake is cold.

Fudge, could this be the cause of all my problems?
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:44 PM   #77
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:48 PM   #78
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Nooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:39 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Rabz_Rox View Post
Phil, I may be a sucker but I have got one of those kits on my air intake. When I did the pod filter I remove the intake air temp sensor and used a simple "bush mechanics" trick of hooking up a transister of a certain impedance that tells the ECU that the air going into the intake is cold.

Fudge, could this be the cause of all my problems?
Thats how you killed your old engine. And will kill this one
If you want colder air move to a colder climate or get a better cold air intake.
Failing that NEVER trick a sensor into thinking its doing something its not unless its to get you home in an emergency.
If you want to mod your car correctly look at some of the other who have been on here for years and see how they have done it correctly .e.g.MarcSP20, Orion, hell myself even now.
I would remove it and throw it in the bin along with any other cheap ebay performance mods.
You wont find any cheap ebay performance mods on our cars, (except for Domo, he is a perfect fit in the rear armrest when its down and is an instant 50 hp, even when the cars switched off)
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:43 PM   #80
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Ummm... sorry Phil. My bad. Should have known better....
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