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Old 02-03-2005, 04:47 AM   #61
boostedbatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twilightprotege
i love it. i wont be turning back
only to see slower cars get smaller as they wave their fist out the window at you
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:56 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahb11m
i'm actually trying out the B spot... not as responsive - but doing this to check my wear patterns out
try the g spot
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Old 02-03-2005, 05:49 PM   #63
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had no luck tonight. could push it down, but very hard to turn. i guess i'll leave it till i got the springs installed.

btw, well, is my alignment gonna be off after this unsuccessful attempt?
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:20 PM   #64
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naaa it should be fine... this isn't to adjust the alignment - thats done down in the steering rods...

you need muscles!!! the whole strut should actually be a pain in the arse to put back in!!!
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:50 PM   #65
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thanks ahb11m, i guess i do need some exercises, been sitting in front of a screen for ages.

i just had a run with my car, reason 1, to check if the front feels any different, reason 2, oh my god i just can't help driving it.

edit: thanks guys this is so much fun with your help.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:29 PM   #66
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Hang, I did the Cspot just recently myself.
I too found the strut hard to turn, what I reccomend is getting the big socket (17mm?) on the nut on the top of the strut, and just turn in the direction you need. It will have no load on it, so the whole strut will just turn while not loosening the nut at at all! You'll need to jack the car up a ****load too...

Gav.
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Old 02-03-2005, 11:18 PM   #67
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nice Gav, thanks. when i looked at the strut, i did tried to think of some tools that i can use to turn the whole thing, but i didn't dare to touch the centre nut. maybe i'll give it another try.
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Old 02-03-2005, 11:24 PM   #68
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*First post updated*
centre nut is seized up most of the time, and is hard to turn when its got the pressure of a spring against it!!
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:59 AM   #69
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If he jacks the car up enough the strut will almost virtually fall out, it might need some help. Once it's out of the bolt holes it's very hard to turn by hand I found, but since the top nut is siezed up or very tight, it makes a great way to turn the strut assembly around with the socket wrench.
Next thing is the bloody strut will be hard to get back up through the bolt holes now, I grabbed the wheel with my spare hand and lifted it up while guiding it with the socket wrench on the centre nut still. This worked really well, I just put my my little foot under the tyre so that it wouldn't fall out again, and jimmied my way to the jack and let the car down enough just so that the tyre was touch the ground. Then I tightened up the bolts again on the WRRRRRRRRRRRR touque setting...

Gav.
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Old 13-03-2005, 10:52 PM   #70
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wher'd the sticky go?
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Old 14-03-2005, 12:19 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahb11m
wher'd the sticky go?
all the old stickies were lost with the board upgrade.

just let a mod know and we'll re-sticky any threads
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:02 AM   #72
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Where do I find the old post that had the settings for this illustrated ? It seems to have been replaced!
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:37 AM   #73
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Enjoy!

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Old 11-12-2006, 10:00 PM   #74
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Guys....has any one done this with BA astina. It has only 3 bolts
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Old 11-12-2006, 10:19 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asangag
Guys....has any one done this with BA astina. It has only 3 bolts
cannot do on BA astina - camber top plates required instead.

ryan
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Old 20-12-2008, 01:24 PM   #76
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Hey guys, was wondering if someone could fix the dead link for the image?
It seems like a pretty good mod :P
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Old 20-12-2008, 05:25 PM   #77
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try here:
http://www.floptical.net/mazda/
or in particular here:
http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/02-11.PDF
i can't find the original image, must of deleted after posting to old host!!!
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:32 PM   #78
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Just posting a trick to cheaply check your camber

1 Drive on to a flat surface, eg driveway, with the wheels pointing straight. Don't reverse or jack up the car

2 Place a spirit level vertically next to the wheel so it passes through the center of the wheel, basically parallel to the wheel. Rest the top of the level against the guard and move the bottom of the level in or out until the bubble is in the center of the lines.

3 Measure the distance between the top of the wheel rim to the level and then the bottom of the rim to the level. This is based on your rim not being bent.

4 The difference between the dimensions can be used to calculate the camber angle

Sin x-1 = difference top to bottom/rim diameter edge to edge

difference top to bottom = 7mm, eg top 30mm bottom 23mm, 30-23 =7mm
rim diameter edge to edge = 390mm measured directly off my 14" rim
Sin x-1 = 7/390 = 1.028º

If the bottom dimension is smaller than the top you have negative camber

When you get good you should be able to get good repeatably
Remember if you change the strut top you will have to resettle the car by driving around the block

My RX7 on the rear has 15mm top to bottom on a 15" rim and wears on the inside, the front has 8mm

My BG Astina has 6mm on the left and 0mm on the right

To check if your spirit level is accurate place it against a door jam on your house and see how close it is, then spin the level around so that you are using the other side and the same bubble. Both sides should read the same

Remember the guard is different distances to the wheel on both sides of the car so don't be supprised if they are different, you just want the difference between the top and bottom

If you want a neat picture of where the wear will be try this
http://www.michelintransport.com/ple...ERTURE&lang=EN

Last edited by Old Grey; 04-04-2009 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:02 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicaboo View Post
Enjoy!

hey mate. do i still have this picture???? would like to do this mod. but don't quite know how?????
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:00 PM   #80
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Na, can't find it. But you want the coloured marker on the strut top to point to the front corner of the side you are working on.
ie: front right strut marker should point to the front right wheel/headlight/corner/etc...

Cheers, Gav.
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