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Old 22-06-2011, 04:02 PM   #1
DavoAust
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Dave's 3000GT

So I figured given the plans I have for the GT and that many of you have other toys besides Astinas I'd start a build thread dedicated to it.

Photos to come soon.

UPDATE: Original plans for 250wkw daily went out the window. 350wkw+ is now the goal

Current:
- 3sx adjustable cam gears
- Lightened billet crank pulley
- Intake manifold & throttle body spacers
- MSD leads
- AEM FPR & adaptor
- On-rail fuel pressure gauge & adaptor
- High flow fuel rail loop
- Free Boost Mod (+20hp)
- Tein Flex coilovers & EDFC
- Adjustable rear control arms
- Scanmaster datalogger
- Slotted RDA front rotors
- Bendix Ultimate pads
- Sony Double DIN HU, full graphics eq
- Polk 4ch amp
- Alpine 6.5" Type-R Splits

In the garage:
- 15G turbos. Good for 550hp at all four
- 560cc Evo injectors
- Aeromotive Stealth 340lp pump
- Transfer case brace
- Innovate LC-1 Wide band
- Braided brake lines
- HKS SSQV Bov (tested fitted it. It frigging LOUD. need the recirc fittings)
- Dejon pre-turbo intake pipes
- Replacement front half shaft
- DN Performance manifolds & O2 housings

Currently on the shopping list:
- ENKEI GTC01's - 19x8.5" - Ordered
- Flash tuneable ECU & adaptor harness (from 3rd gen)
- Blackstealth EBC & datalogger - integrates with flash tune ecu
- Braided fuel lines & filter - from pump to rail
- FMIC
- Bigger oil cooler
- Front, rear sway bars
- Front, rear strut braces
- Polk monoblock
- 15.5" JVC super slim line sub
- Hella headlight conversion

Stuff to be done/fixed:
- Leaking rear steering rack - fix or delete
- Front bar, left mirror & rear spoiler - respray
- Extemely slow leak somewhere in the clutch system
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT

Last edited by DavoAust; 07-08-2012 at 01:39 PM. Reason: Updated mods
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Old 22-06-2011, 09:38 PM   #2
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I guess calling it a 3000GT means it's a local delivered one - not a GTO import.
I use to love looking at this Red one on the way to school - back well it would of been about 93-94.

All I know really abotu those Twin Titty Mitsubishis' is Ceramic and other types of coatings are yuor best friend. I know one guy had his Galant I think it was 2.5L TT - had everything he could coated and it made massive difference. All he ever did fit I think was a unichip or exide intercepter. left it stock, but it was totally different car in summer with the coatings.
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Old 23-06-2011, 07:07 AM   #3
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Davo, if your main goal is wanting it quicker round the track rather than chasing a nice 1/4 mile trap time, keep the turbos on the smaller side. Your max rwkw power really doesn't matter for this. Twins have always been hard to beat 'round a track. They began penalising them with forced added weight & eventually banning from the track back in the late 80's for this very reason if some recall both here & OS........

My advice from here would be to look into what specific GT forum members do & have done. Find out the different stages of modding that they do like with the XR6T's even.

For interest sake, with the early Zed's, if one wanted to run the stock ECU, & yet gain respectable power you:
a) changed out the stock air filters for a large air ram/pod
b) bigger twin IC's
c) open up the zorst system ie: twin 2 1/2" from turbine housings right back to tails
d) upping the boost a few psi (just remember the greater the psi, the longer it takes to get to full boost)

These simple cheap mods alone gives an extra 30kwatw or so because in factory form the engines are choked

Since your chasing 75wkw's you may get away with larger injectors & a good dynotune? Or larger turbos too but don't go too big on the turbos if track work is what you favor Besides, once you start replacing turbos, changing chips etc you go to the next level of performance where you begin to have reliability/economy issues..........

All the best mate with it what ever you do
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Last edited by NaughtyGT; 23-06-2011 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 23-06-2011, 11:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodhog View Post
I guess calling it a 3000GT means it's a local delivered one - not a GTO import.
I use to love looking at this Red one on the way to school - back well it would of been about 93-94.

All I know really abotu those Twin Titty Mitsubishis' is Ceramic and other types of coatings are yuor best friend. I know one guy had his Galant I think it was 2.5L TT - had everything he could coated and it made massive difference. All he ever did fit I think was a unichip or exide intercepter. left it stock, but it was totally different car in summer with the coatings.
Yup, locally delivered red one, probably the same as what you used to look at

As for HPC, I'll probably get the manifolds etc HPC coated with I swap to 13G's. I've got to take half the engine apart for that anyway so I'll be doing coatings etc at the same time. Heard good things about a mob on the sunny coast who do some very good work. I'll see if i can find the name.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NaughtyGT View Post
Davo, if your main goal is wanting it quicker round the track rather than chasing a nice 1/4 mile trap time, keep the turbos on the smaller side. Your max rwkw power really doesn't matter for this.

My advice from here would be to look into what specific GT forum members do & have done. Find out the different stages of modding that they do like with the XR6T's even.

For interest sake, with the early Zed's, if one wanted to run the stock ECU, & yet gain respectable power you:
a) changed out the stock air filters for a large air ram/pod
b) bigger twin IC's
c) open up the zorst system ie: twin 2 1/2" from turbine housings right back to tails
d) upping the boost a few psi (just remember the greater the psi, the longer it takes to get to full boost)

Since your chasing 75wkw's you may get away with larger injectors & a good dynotune? Or larger turbos too but don't go too big on the turbos if track work is what you favor Besides, once you start replacing turbos, changing chips etc you go to the next level of performance where you begin to have reliability/economy issues..........

All the best mate with it what ever you do
Thats the plan, looking at a nice beefy torque curve combined with the AWD. Planning on 'baby' 13G turbos to keep the lag down and push out plenty of power.Will end up around 250-300kW ATW, could go higher (theres a bunch of US dudes running 600kW ATW as daily drivers, a couple have even fitted anti-lag . Wouldn't mind a drive of that!) but I'd rather keep it on the saner side for daily duties.

Engine plan is larger injectors, fuel pump, adj. FPR, high flow filter & fuel look, fuel & boost controllers, upgraded turbos (BB 13G's) @ 15psi, full zorst, intake & upgraded IC's. This should all work with the stock ECU (has maps up to 17psi) and push out around 250 with a decent tune.

Just wish there were more suppliers in Aust. Shipping from the states is exxy..
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 23-06-2011, 05:10 PM   #5
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Sounds like a plan, you know these things are really heavy ay?...

Fulcrum is the TEIN Aust. distributor and can hook you up with anything to do with tein.
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Old 24-06-2011, 01:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zappy65 View Post
Sounds like a plan, you know these things are really heavy ay?...

Fulcrum is the TEIN Aust. distributor and can hook you up with anything to do with tein.
Mmm 1800kg of car. Can drop that weight down a fair bit with the AWS delete and a few other mods that i'll look at post-suspension. I'm not really building it as a straight line machine though.

I know fulcrum are, but they didn't seem too keen on supplying the Flex mono's that i'm after. May look at racing logic, after something with easily adjustable dampener settings
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 29-06-2011, 01:48 PM   #7
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Why you chasing damper adjustment, and what's more important to you, looks or performance?
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Old 29-06-2011, 04:12 PM   #8
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After adjustable as I want some trade off for comfort on road trips whilst being able to stiffen them up for short cruises, track days and the like. I have easy access to front and back strut tops so I'd be happy without the Teins/EDC if I can get something similar/better with manual adjustment.

Definately after perf rather than looks. Otherwise I'd just get some cheapie D2's or just springs..
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 21-08-2011, 07:56 PM   #9
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Figured I'd give this an update.

Moved the 12" Sony sub over from the astina and picked up a Polk 660 amp to run it. Took the front door trims off and shaved the inside of the grills to give the woofers more clearance. The Type-Rs are in perfect condition, boucing off/being pressed again the grills made them sound blown. Will be changing to a JL 13.5" slimline, this is just a temp solution to the lack of doof.

Added a blox neo 420gm shift knob. Hefty bastard, much nicer in the hand and shifting than the stocker and looks purdy.

Sitting on the cupboard is a HKS type-1 turbo timer and loom. It doesn't play nicely with the current alarm so i've got to figure that out or get a new one with a better immobilser setup & extra internal siren. Also have a new fuel rail loop & t-clamp fittings to go on. Once they're in + a upgraded fuel pump & boost controller I'll be upping boost to 14psi... or around 210-220kw at all 4.

I've decided to aim for a little more power than I originally planned, around 375awk / 500 at the crank.

Unfortunately the water pump gasket is definately on its way out, 500mL coolant every 400km / 3-4 days of sitting around is going out the bottom. Not to mention that its soaking the timing belt. c**p.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 26-03-2012, 06:30 PM   #10
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hey an update????

also where did u get ur coilovers and can i get some for the ba haha
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Old 26-03-2012, 10:43 PM   #11
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I got the coilovers through streettotrack. Pretty sure I contacted them on Boost Cruising. Might have been Jdmst. Its worth shopping around though. I managed to get them $600 cheaper than the original quote.

As for the 3000, its had the water pump replaced, all the timing belt pulleys changed and a kevlar timing belt put on, adjustable cam gears and new loop between the rails to stop the back bank leaning out.

In the garage I have upgraded turbos, aeromotive fuel pump, an AEM fpr, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Braided brake lines, transfer case brace and more. Essentially waiting until I have the boost & fuel controllers sorted and bigger injectors as I'll max the stock ones out pretty quick
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 27-03-2012, 08:46 AM   #12
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Paul's discounts are pretty good (same a el-cheapo ebay prices) as he works out of a home office. From memory he lives in Morayfield. I was gonna get some K-Sports of him before the option of YSR was available.
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Old 27-03-2012, 11:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Paul's discounts are pretty good (same a el-cheapo ebay prices) as he works out of a home office. From memory he lives in Morayfield. I was gonna get some K-Sports of him before the option of YSR was available.
That was $600 less than he originally quoted. I pointed out that I could get them for $500 less from a normal supplier in the US with express shipping.

He does have exceptionally good service when something isn't right. The wrong EDFC motors were supplied, he organised getting them sent back & the new ones and covered the costs of postage. Completely painless
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:37 AM   #14
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Guess its time for an update. The knock sensor shat itself a couple of weeks ago. Running on limp mode for a charity cruise isn't much fun

So the last couple of days have consisted of pulling half the engine out and replacing the sensor, changing the plugs to some low resistance copper ones in prep for higher boost, replacing a bunch of stuffed vac lines, installing the AEM FPR, installing the fuel pressure gauge & adapter, bleeding the brakes (fluid came out a nice mahogany colour, I boiled it 4 times..), raise by 1cm and relevel the coilovers and removing the preload on the springs.

Started up last night and drove nicely. Much more comfy with no preload (but so much more body roll ) and the extra clearance is welcome. I was sitting on about 7cm clearance before. Car is idling better, boosting about the same BUT without the phantom knock I was getting its definately holding boost & timing much better.

Currently in progess:
- Getting a full -6 AN braided fuel line kit from the pump to the rail, including high flow filter (can't get the fittings off to install the new pump, stuff it i'll just replace it all for $200).
- Getting a flash tunable ECU & tuning cables/software - Some blokes in the states have figured out how to do everything a standalone can off our stock ecu. Theres a few cars running 700hp at the wheels on the stock ecu, perfect hot, cold start & idle with all the factory safegaurds

My current goal is a power curve like this (he had less supporting mods but still the stock exhaust & intake). Dies at the top as the stock exhaust & intake choke it:
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT

Last edited by DavoAust; 01-07-2012 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:39 PM   #15
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Looks like my dyno chart, gotta love full boost at low RPMs, it gives so much torque.
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:45 PM   #16
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You know its bad when you use your AGT thread to remember whats in the pile of parts downstairs.

New manifolds are on their way & the enkei's are ordered. Unfortunately they wont be manufactured until around the 20th. Major bummer.

Annual 3000gt meet is the end of November. Its now a race to see if I can get the turbos and supporting mods in and tuned first
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 07-08-2012, 03:12 PM   #17
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the car hoist is still avalable mate..
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