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10-08-2012, 05:52 AM | #1 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Location: south brisbane
Car: 1993 BG Astina SP
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boost still spiking
So I ported my wastegate heaps and I mean heaps.....check the wastegate actuator arm etc its all working sweet and yesterday was holding a nice 8psi to 10psi in all gears at load....then I go out last night and the boost is still spiking. Could there be a possible boost leak somewhere? Likr would a leak in manifold from exhaust to turbo do this?
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10-08-2012, 06:58 AM | #2 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Just realised it only started hitting boost cut since I put the boost gauge on....might check there for a leak hahaha
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10-08-2012, 07:06 AM | #3 |
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That makes sense with the gauge. Try just disconnecting it from the vac source and if that's sweet replace the line.
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10-08-2012, 07:43 AM | #4 |
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The T piece has been installed yes?
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10-08-2012, 07:53 AM | #5 |
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Could have been the cold air causing a spike too.
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10-08-2012, 08:56 AM | #6 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Yeah t piece installed....i just cut and retightened the line and threads. I'll test her tonight cux it only really spikes when cold. If that doesnt work I'll disconnect the guage and replace the bov line i tapped into and see if no gauge fixes it
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10-08-2012, 09:00 AM | #7 |
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you should never have the boost signal line spliced into anything or anything spliced from it! It needs to have the most direct source... having stuff tied to it reduces the pressure and will cause the wastegate to move slower!
if you want to connect your boost gauge, find a different vacuum source... if you're out of vacuum ports, you need a vacuum block which is what you should've done long ago
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10-08-2012, 09:04 AM | #8 |
AstinaGT Regular
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How does it effect wastegate? My wastegate has its own line separate and figured running the bov and boost gauge off the same line from back of intake manifold would be fine?
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10-08-2012, 09:30 AM | #9 |
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So the T piece on on the vaccuum line from the manifold and air bypass valve?
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10-08-2012, 09:40 AM | #10 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Don't have a bypass valve It's an atmo bov...I have custom 2.5" piping to fmic etc so It's custom. And yes I have the line t into the manifold and the bov line
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10-08-2012, 09:55 AM | #11 |
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whatever. doesn't matter what type of valve it is. it is a valve controlled by the pressure in the intake manifold. it you tap this vacum line and reduce the pressure/vacuum inside it, then the valves function will be reduced.
dunno if this will work. but try the gauge on the vacuum line port on the intake manifold for the purge control solenoid. block off your T piece. to be honest, i got no idea if removing the purge control will send the engine into hissy fit mode or not. but as least you should be able to run the other air control functions at 100%. just had an after thought also. having issues with the valve would only result in a spike after you took you foot off the gas as the pressure between the turbo and intake manifold wouldn't decrease. so next question is, how is the pressure spiking? on gas, off gas, at high rpm, at low rpm etc? Last edited by project.r.racing; 10-08-2012 at 10:09 AM. |
10-08-2012, 11:55 AM | #12 |
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disconnecting the purge control solenoid will not cause any driveability issues, it is an emissions control part and you might fail rego in the future... but at the meantime, it is worth a try
honestly, you are better off with a vacuum block (all of which attach themselves to the large brake booster line for very good vacuum) because you have so many connections needed
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10-08-2012, 12:01 PM | #13 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Sweet thanks for the ideas. It doesn't spike through the street generally but from 100km/h back to third or fourth and flat foot it spikes so i generally have to take it to 10psi and hold my foot there to stop it from cutting. Thing is when I had to boost gauge off to start with I could flat foot
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12-08-2012, 03:24 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
If you're free and in the inner city I can drop round and take a look at the vacuum setup for you? Why are you running atmo? Unless you're at ridiculously high boost all it does is increase lag and make the engine spaz everytime it vents. MAF systems don't like running atmo at all.
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12-08-2012, 04:02 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
And I'm reading the word spike, ie a increase for a quick moment. I'm not reading high boost or over boost. Can only give advice on the description given. Is nothing wrong with the sound of compressor surge. Try to find a rally video from the 80s with a car fitted with a turbo, before bypass valves become the norm. The flutter noise is damn sexy. Although mine guessing the blades on the turbo would be rooted over time. |
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12-08-2012, 04:10 PM | #16 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Ok the full thing....ill be sitting at 100km and put it back to third then flat foot and the boost just keeps rising until it hits boost cut. And it happens within about 15-20km increase so I can't go from 100-120 flat foot without it hitting the 14.4psi boost cut
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12-08-2012, 04:12 PM | #17 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Furthermore my car runs 10psi in first and around 12psi in secojd which it shouldnt because of the ported wastegate and factory setting which should be 8psi. but i have 2.5"piping, 2.5"dump to a 2" exhaust and a fmic
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12-08-2012, 04:13 PM | #18 |
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okay, thats not spiking, thats overboosting. although many may have a different word/s for it again.
don't look at the bypass valve then. go back to the actuator or wastegate then. you actually revved the balls off it and had someone watch the actuator shaft for movement? if it turns out to be one of the lines, or a solenoid, i have those here if you need them. Last edited by project.r.racing; 12-08-2012 at 04:18 PM. |
12-08-2012, 04:29 PM | #19 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Sorry for the misused phrase then, im new to turbos haha. I'll rev it and get a mate to check it but when I had it off and tested it with the compressor lines it worked fine and opened and the wastegate is ported probably another 8-9mm in diameter. I'll try the rev and then try my lines again cant hurt to triple check everything
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12-08-2012, 04:51 PM | #20 |
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got something you can test, and it is a 5 minute job. switch the wastegate solenoid with the fuel regulator solenoid.
if after that, it start to have fuel issues, then you know it is the solenoid. and if nothing new happens, you've wasted 5 minutes and rule out the solenoid. p.s. Dont worry about that. We are all noobs at one stage. Better to ask than to blow up. Last edited by project.r.racing; 12-08-2012 at 04:56 PM. |
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