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06-12-2010, 08:31 PM | #1 |
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Car: 95' Mazda BA 323
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KL-ZE, BP, BP-T, FE3 & KF-ZE Discussion!
Hi all!
I am just wondering if there are any how to's or guides to swap the 1.8 BA Hatch to the KL-ZE 2.5? Or for that, if it's even possible? Also, does anyone know if the series 1 1.8 gearbox will bolt up to the 2.5 KL-ZE and work? I know for the swap some things I'm going to have to focus on are the gearbox if I need a mx6 gearbox, the engine mounts for if they line up, I'll need the MX-6 ECU as far as I know, and might have to upgrade the fuel pump as well, but from what I know the rest is a straight bolt on yeah? I've read the sticky, but not enough information there, just seeking some more opinions? Cheers guys!
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Too many Mazdas. ♡ Last edited by SLY 323; 09-12-2010 at 12:57 AM. |
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06-12-2010, 08:43 PM | #2 |
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http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...ZE-Swap-Thread
Now I can see it works for the BJ with not to much trouble! Still doesn't help with the BA unfortunatly...
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06-12-2010, 09:07 PM | #3 |
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Location: Brisbane
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Ye it will fit ofcourse, but it's cheaper/ easier to get a ba with a v6 so a f vin ratherthan a p vin (pref busted engine so its cheper) and swap it from there.. That way all the brakes, shafts, and mechanical are more suited
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06-12-2010, 09:17 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Also what about the gearbox? Thanks your help!
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06-12-2010, 09:25 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
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I'm with Tony get one that ha the v6 in it transfer all ur gear across to it and get a klze and drop it in. That way there is everything there gear box and all
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06-12-2010, 10:27 PM | #6 |
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It's easier to start with a V6 base, as all the wiring is the same. From memory the V6 and 1.8 wiring shares little, so i think you'd have to change the interior and engine looms, which becomes a pain. Or maybe i'm thinking of JDM V6 vs AUSDM V6 - can't remember.
You'll need a BA V6 gearbox (or maybe the MX-6 one, not sure on that) as the 1.8 and V6 have different bellhousings. So new clutch, flywheel and driveshafts as well. Unless you've got a P1 BA, then the clutch/driveshafts are the same as V6 You'll need all new engine mounts too, except for the top gearbox mount (and maybe the rear depending on P1 or P2). Fuel pump will be fine. You'll need the KL-ZE ECU as far as i can recall, as the AUSDM V6 Astina one doesn't work properly with the KL. It's (relatively) easier to got BP-T from a BP base, as all the mounts/gearbox/wiring is basically plug and play. Much easier. Where's Cosmo - he'll know
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07-12-2010, 12:13 AM | #7 |
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Hi! in the philippines, were doing lots of conversion from the 1.6 which was all we had, to the type R V6 but we usually buy a half cut plus the rear suspension so everything is intact. We just disassemble everything from the half cut and re-assemble it on the existing car.
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07-12-2010, 10:26 AM | #8 |
コスモ
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Trans is different (bell housing and ratios), brake master is shorter to accomodate engine, drivers side driveshaft is different. Wiring looms are different, DE engine has EGR where ZE doesn't and ZE has knock sensor where DE doesn't. Engine loom plugs are different where they plug into the main loom, radiator, p/s pump and altenator are on different sides of the engine (re-wiring and re-plumbing), fans, brakes, rims and the list goes on...
By the time you've fixed half of this stuff you could have bought a V6 with a rough engine, completed the conversion and sold off your current ride.
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07-12-2010, 06:24 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
But then I'll have to buy a wrecked V6 astina then the engine. But I guess in turn I won't need a gearbox or to upgrade the brakes and what not. Ah I don't know, I'm confused
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07-12-2010, 07:20 PM | #10 |
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are you off your p-plates?
if so id recommend going the FI way of BP rather than fcuking around with either converting the i4-v6 or buying another car and swapping everything over and then upgrading the engine.. in any case that will be your cheapest, quickest and most rewarding option. assuming you will rebuild the engine with forged internals and with stock compression and 8psi that comes around 3500rpm you should have a very responsive zippy car that will still be very economical at cruising speeds (2.5-3K). if you want more power then get lower comp pistons and more boost.. just my 5c (seeing as tho 2c doesnt exist here ) |
07-12-2010, 07:38 PM | #11 |
コスモ
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If you could find a Lantis front cut then I'd leap at it.
KF-DE Astina = 104Kw KF-ZE Lantis = 130Kw KF-ZE other =120Kw You'd also get all parts needed for the legendary climate control install
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08-12-2010, 07:54 AM | #12 |
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damo like they have said its way to much effort going from I4 to v6
and if you want a jap spec engine your gonna need a front cut to do it easliy for dollar for dollar fun just rebuild and turbo your current engine (or find another BP which is also much easier than finding a klze) or get a BPT also it is cheaper to build a I4 than a v6 |
08-12-2010, 12:16 PM | #13 |
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AH okay!
So, I'm on my P's. Still going to be for another 2 years. That's why I'm looking at it from this direction of a V6 first, then to turbo the V6. But would I get the same performance from the I4 turbo over the V6 turbo, common sense tells me no, but I could be wrong. So, I go sell my car, buy a V6. THEN chuck a KL into it, and further down the track, TURBO Thanks guys. If anyone knows of a good V6, let me know. Also, looks like I'll be selling my car. Let me know if your interested!
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08-12-2010, 12:25 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Turbo K series can and has been done...but have you seen the space under the bonnet of a V6? Good luck
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08-12-2010, 12:36 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
Just when I see figures from turbo'd I4's, I see 140kw-150kw atw. Which to me doesn't seem like a huge amount. Well should I stick with the I4, work the internals with the money I would of spent on a KL, then turbo. OR, as said above Help.
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08-12-2010, 01:08 PM | #16 |
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What are you comparing 150kw atw to? In a 1200kg BA or a 1800kg Commodore? It doesn't seem like much, but you've got much lighter weight which is a big advantage. 150kw atw will still get you 6 second 0-100 times and 13-14sec 1/4 mile times. Last time i checked this wasn't exactly slow
Or if you really want to do the V6 thing, then a slightly tweaked KL-ZE will get you much the same figures.
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08-12-2010, 01:27 PM | #17 |
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if i was in your position id just turbo the BP
hell of a lot easier (in reguards to space,time and parts avaliablity etc) like rupe said a BP turbo would give you all the power you would ever need look at micks car that thing beats wrx's |
08-12-2010, 01:37 PM | #18 |
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Don't forget the FE3
I'm toying with this thought at the moment however it's not the most common conversion.
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08-12-2010, 02:41 PM | #19 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I'm comparing it to say turbo in a sr20 sss. they hit upwards of 200kw, in something the same weight, or maybe a touch more. Thats all. I was looking for something that would ive me a figure like that!
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08-12-2010, 03:01 PM | #20 |
コスモ
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FE3 or FE twin cam is a two litre inline 4 cylinder from the JDM GD Cappella (626). It's kinda the best bits of the BP engine in a strong two litre engine.
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14863
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