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Old 04-10-2011, 10:49 PM   #41
phildough
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Have you tried using a FS-DE air flow meter, they have different part numbers.
I was running the FS-ZE AFM with my FP ECU and my car ran rich.
Your going to need both the FS-DE and FP-DE wiring diagrams handy and a FS-DE wiring loom as its allready wired for the FS-DE ECU as they have different pin outs if you want to swap ECU which you should.
They also run different immobilisation systems btw.
I have just completed my engine/ECU swap and know the pain your going through.
Just so you know the FS has much larger injectors than the FP.
DO NOT USE the wiring diagrams available online for the US protege and protege5 they run a different ECU to our cars.
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:51 PM   #42
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You should be running rich not lean. You will be pumping in more fuel using the FP ECU then you would using the FS ECU due to the bigger injectors on the FS, unless your using the FP injectors?

In any even what your looking for is a reason for incorrect amount of air being registered by the engine. What are you using to gauge whether its rich? Wide band?

Again check what MAF your using.
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:56 PM   #43
Rabz_Rox
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The FS Motor I got included everything except the loom and ECU. So I have used everything (Header, injectors etc) and grabbed an O2 sensor to suit as well. Which only leaves the FP Loom and ECU. The new FS ECU I have got I don't think comes with a LOOM.

Anyone have any thoughts about this?

Phil, I know you have done all this before, was the FS-DE you tried an Aussie or US one? I know the US has a different ECU and Loom because of the OBD2 emissions stuff and cos their American!!! They also got the different intake manifold I believe? From my understanding the Aussie FS is a lot closer to the FP. Please correct me if I'm wrong!!
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:59 PM   #44
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Is the AFM you speak of Phil the MAF? Same thing?
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:03 PM   #45
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Ice, I am not using the FP Injectors. The guess on LEAN is based on exhaust oxygen levels... and smell, or lack there of!!!

Guys, you may be on to something but. I was thinking purely fuel related, but if the MAF is reading an incorrect air flow or the O2 sensor in the exhaust is reading wrong then the ECU may be reacting correctly.

Let me get the FS ECU in and I'll give you all an update. May just check up on which MAF is in there too.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:17 PM   #46
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Im not sure why its running lean as my car ran rich,
My new engine a FS-ZE with a ported/flowed head,cams 10.7:1 pistons and a set of extractors with a tuned ECU out of the rare JDM Mazdaspeed Familia and my car is an Australian spec 2002 1.8 BJII-J48 hatch.
I CBF with the BS involved with putting a FS-DE in for 6 KW thats why I went stupid and got the engine i did.
The Australian SP20 is OBDII, BJ 1.8s are OBD I.
Also the MAF=AFM were talking about the same thing.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:22 PM   #47
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Thanks Phil. Right about now I would like to go back to the start of the post and see if I could have found an FS-ZE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bloody hard to find but.

Here's hoping tomorrow produces good results and I get to take off home 6KW faster! :P
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:22 PM   #48
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The Australian FS is OBDII as well, not sure how that interferes with the FP. Should just be able to swap everything over I think. (Not my area of expertise tbh and famous last words no?)

Yeah AFM = Air Flow Meter. Which can either be MAF(Mass Airflow Meter) or MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure). Our cars have MAF

So youve used something to measure the oxygen levels or all smell?

My point is that the stock ECU AFAIK doesnt take into account volume of fuel injected but duty (in closed loop) so in closed loop an FP ecu will pump more fuel then an FS ecu would (at least in theory) as the FP is pumping at a certain percentage.

Which means based on this logic that the problem has to be air related. Try using FP MAF with the FP ECU see if that helps you out somewhat. Youll want the FS ECU in there eventually anyways IMO.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:25 PM   #49
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Thanks heaps guys. I really appreciate all the info.

At least Mazda lovers have more brains than the Holden V Ford discussions!!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:27 PM   #50
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Cars is officially stuffed. Picking it up now to drop off to another place to pit a Haltech 500 in it. Costing me a small fortune. But now half the hard work is done for a turbo!!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:00 PM   #51
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I thought you couldnt get an aftermarket ecu complied in melbourne??
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:04 PM   #52
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If the FS-ZE saga from Phil's car is anything to go by. Never d@#k around with the wrong loom and ECU. You will just get nowhere real slow.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:20 PM   #53
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I'd suggest never stick a motor in a car that's not designed for it!!!

Would be have been cheaper to have bought an SP20!!!

Although the motor looks super sexy, and once the Haltech is in I'm gunna be dribbling on my shoes!!!!!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:47 PM   #54
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The computer is not the issue, if ALL you have done is swapped in another motor then something else is wrong. The 1.8/2.0 issue is irrelevant, either computer will happily run either engine.

Did the mechanic swap the entire intake manifold and all electronics onto the 2.0 engine? Or did he just dump it and plug plugs into where they fit?

Giving up and fitting a haltech is a stupid idea. It is something simple, incredibly simple, you just need a mechanic that is not a moron to look at it.

Call this guy - Rick, Intense Automotive - 0401 887 616. He is located in Keysborough. He is good at solving other people problems.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:54 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcs_sp20 View Post
I thought you couldnt get an aftermarket ecu complied in melbourne??
You can, but you need to pass emission test and a lot more to do...
Its just a headache.. and cost a lot..

Rabz_Rox where u getting the ECU done mate?
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:02 PM   #56
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MazTech is looking after the ECU and will probably give it a full going over!

The Mechanic has dropped everything in except the loom and ECU. He has replaced all sensors, the entire intake manifold and a hell of a lot of other stuff. Quite frankly, I think he has done an awesome job. The engine looks amazing and he's thrown other stuff in that I wasn't expecting. It's just a shame that it hasn't quite worked out. But they are a top bunch of blokes and they have really looked after me and the car, regardless of the fact that it's not quite working!!

Engine Pic Here

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Old 05-10-2011, 07:12 PM   #57
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The mechanic did not do an awesome job, your car does not run! He has performed a simple mechanical task, any mechanic can swap a motor over and plug everything back in and it will run. Why does yours not run? I hate to see it when a mechanic simply gives up on a problem because they don't know what it is, forcing the customer to spend another $2000 to get their car working correctly. At least get someone else to look at it before throwing so much money away on a haltech ecu install.

If you do end up putting the haltech in it, just turbo it as well, you're halfway there already. The ecu is the most crucial part in a turbo conversion.
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:28 PM   #58
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Dropping a new motor in is not a simple mechanical task. Unless it is an identical motor. Most members here who have done engine swaps have had similar problems. Check PhilDough's posts. Similar issues. It all seems simple. But short of replacing all your electronics as well as all your mechanical parts, there will always be issues.

ICE88, the oxygen level in the exhaust started at 1.4. They managed to get it down to 1.35 by putting larger Injectors in. Was wondering whether I might drop some 450cc injectors in with a bigger fuel pump. That would be about double the size of the current injectors.

Car is idling (just) at about 400-500 rpms. Stuff all power. When you hit the gas it just slowly accelerates. Even once she's moving at 60 if you downshift there is just no power.
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:41 PM   #59
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Yes its a different motor, but its the same enough that it should be a simple drop in. Your problem is either electrical or timing related. Providing you used ALL of your original electronics and injection system you should not be having issues. ALL = FP ecu, loom, injectors, MAF, dizzy (if it has one), tps and anything else attached to the engine.

Aside from this, maybe the timing is up the ****? Check the cam timing, were they messing with the timing belt at all?
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:47 PM   #60
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Here is the work list...
FS 2.0 Motor
Water Pump
Cam Belt
Oil and filter
Coil Pack

They have gone backwards and forwards between the FP parts and the FS parts swapping in and out different things. But nothing helped.

We discussed earlier MAF sensors. Can anyone confirm whether they were actually different. I know they have different part numbers, but sometimes that is just done so they can charge different amounts.
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