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Old 05-10-2011, 11:48 PM   #81
Rabz_Rox
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Any tips on what to do with the air temp sensor with a pod filter attached. I have at least kept the sensor, I didn't throw it out. Does that make up for killing my motor by using cheap **** tricks?
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:49 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Rabz_Rox View Post
Ummm... sorry Phil. My bad. Should have known better....
Call the mechanic first thing in the morning, tell them to replace the temp sensor and remove your wiring and use the FP ECU and see how it runs then.
All might be well.
It will be a bit rich if things are right on that ECU.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:52 PM   #83
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Am I better still getting the FS Chip and loom?

I think based on your past experience and comments made by others "way more intelligent than me", it is not worth messing around with the FP ECU.

What about the Haltech?
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:05 AM   #84
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FS ECU will help IMO. Over the short term itd be fine but over the long term its hard to tell. The FP and FS have different compression, different tunes, different cams, different injectors.

FS needs different fuel for instance to stop pinging etc.
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:21 AM   #85
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FS ECU will help IMO. Over the short term itd be fine but over the long term its hard to tell. The FP and FS have different compression, different tunes, different cams, different injectors.

FS needs different fuel for instance to stop pinging etc.
I would try the FP ECU first,
If the engine runs rich swap to the smaller 1.8 injectors as it would hold them open longer.
Then try again.
If it works well and it should (my car was fine and its only because it was the engine from a Mazdaspeed Familia that I even bothered trying) always run it on 98 as its a lot of money to spend for only a few KW.
Can you send the engine back and wait 3 weeks (less if you pay air freight)and I can get you a standard 125KW FS-ZE + ECU for LESS than whats its going to cost you to buy FS-DE + Haltech + getting it tuned.
If you want I can even get the tiptronic style gearbox as well.
We know thats possible.
I can arrange everything including wiring loom corrections.
I know its a crazy thought but its well worth it.
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:00 AM   #86
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Phil, I have re-fitted the O2 Temp sensor and......

IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks you so much mate. I can't thank you enough.

The car is now idling (in gear) at about 1200 rpm and in Park she is spinning out at a massive 2500rpm. But I am tipping that is from the guys over cranking it to get it up to idle. I am also tipping that the 220cc injectors is probably not helping either.
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:06 AM   #87
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Here's a bizarre question... why? This never happened with the FP motor 3-4 years ago when I fitted that transister. What got the FS Motor's panties all up in a bunch.

Probably should just be happy that I wont blow this motor in 3-4 years I guess. But this is what makes us technical guys so technical!!!
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:26 AM   #88
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Our ecus learn around quite a bit of stuff, and they require some time to learn other bits n pieces.

And just cause the voltage is x now doesnt mean itll be x in a year.
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:20 AM   #89
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Im glad to hear it works, must have been a late stressful night and im glad I could help.
I dont know what made me even think of that resistor on the intake sensor mod but im glad I did now!!!
Now take frankenstina to a mechanic and get the o2 levels checked.
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:18 AM   #90
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If you have a pod,
just leave the sensor outside in the engine bay close to the pod..
usually for legal purposes you should put your pod filter in a box, then put the sensor in it..
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:36 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spykey View Post
If you have a pod,
just leave the sensor outside in the engine bay close to the pod..
usually for legal purposes you should put your pod filter in a box, then put the sensor in it..
in this case of wrong ecu for the motor i would make sure its connected correctlty as you need to make sure the ECU is getting correct figures so it might be able to run it.
Hell while you are making sure its AOK you should re install the original air box as a test.
Strange things happen in Mazdas.
My car kept surprising me, it still does.
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Old 06-10-2011, 03:27 PM   #92
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Latest update. Idle is still high and my new mechanics are still trying to bring it down. They have come to the conclusion that it will something simple and stupid and that they now just need to find it!!

The guy has actually taken the pod off and stuck his hand over the air intake and the motor has happily continued running, idling high. So it is obviously sucking air in from somewhere it shouldn't!!!

Now he is inspecting the throttle body and checking the valve.
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Old 06-10-2011, 03:42 PM   #93
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At least your now getting somewhere!!!!
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:10 PM   #94
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Make sure that the black corrugated piping between the AFM and the throttle body is still intact. It is quite common for these to split along the seams
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:01 AM   #95
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Any more updates??
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:37 AM   #96
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Not yet. Will keep you posted.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:03 PM   #97
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Looks like it was the idle air control valve. They just need to get it up on the Dyno now and test the mixture.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:12 PM   #98
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Not surprising as they would have tried everything to figure out what was causing the problem.
No one would have thought a resistor on your air temp sensor could cause all this hell.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:15 PM   #99
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by phildough View Post
No one would have thought a resistor on your air temp sensor could cause all this hell.
I know one legend who did!!!!
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Old 07-10-2011, 03:21 PM   #100
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I know one legend who did!!!!
Still don't know what made me think of it, but im glad I did!!!
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