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Old 11-10-2011, 07:44 AM   #121
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Not for long on stock compression.
wanna explain that a bit more?
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Old 11-10-2011, 12:46 PM   #122
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The stock FS rods are really brittle, hell revving the engine alot causes the rods to stretch. In the states even on stock compression the FS engine goes Zoom Zoom Boom, anything above stock compression just hastens the process. Using after market ECU with a good tune would most likely lengthen engine life but not significantly IMO.
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:54 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice88 View Post
The stock FS rods are really brittle, hell revving the engine alot causes the rods to stretch. In the states even on stock compression the FS engine goes Zoom Zoom Boom, anything above stock compression just hastens the process. Using after market ECU with a good tune would most likely lengthen engine life but not significantly IMO.
Thats what i was waiting for :P
a good tune is all :P

Am aiming 25 psi by the end on next year :P with all forged internals.. and other supporting mods :P
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Old 13-10-2011, 05:10 PM   #124
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Any updates on this, have they managed to get it idling yet??

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Am aiming 25 psi by the end on next year :P with all forged internals.. and other supporting mods :P
You are game aiming for 25 PSI, with that much power your car will be going zoom zoom boom breaking things all the time.
Make sure you have a spare gearbox handy with that much power.
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Old 16-10-2011, 11:31 AM   #125
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Rabz_Rox, how the car going mate?
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Old 17-10-2011, 11:14 PM   #126
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i have been running my car for 1-2 years now with a completely stock FS-DE unopened with 9-11psi with success.

driven daily without fail.

for the boost that I am running I should be creating more power, but I have a very sensible tune with very good AFR ratios that is about maximum fuel economy and has additional decreasing timing on boost.

like spykey, both our cars were done by Hi-Comp Performance Engines and Tuning in sydney. (http://www.hicomp.com.au)

I kept to the factory usa mazdaspeed conversion, and spykey has gone with the ebay full custom kit.

after the conversion, the famous g-series 5spd gearbox worries me more than the block having a hissy fit.

having owned various early lasers and 323's and familia gtx awd, i know all too well about the g-series gearset and their eggshell gearbox housings.

im glad with the bj/kq with g-series 5spd, the gearbox casing has been redesigned and looks more beefier than the early 90's. shame that it still has the same internals, but thats another story.

----

Rabz_Rox,

I agree with everyone else here, if your mechanic couldnt get your car running reasonable with the factory electronics and immediately turned to aftermarket ecu, thats an expensive option to get to the same result as another switched on mechanic fixing your car properly.
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Old 18-10-2011, 06:57 AM   #127
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as long as you don't beat on the gearbox, it will be fine.... I have a friend making about 300hp here (I built his motor) with a welded stock LSD... it's been holding up fine... he takes it easy with launches and shifts

likewise, I do the same and mine has far less power than his

your aussie FS-DE engines have higher compression than the US ones, I really think you should be running less than 9psi if you don't have any sort of knock monitoring system... a J&S safeguard is ideal.... it's hard to believe, but it actually saved my friend's engine from blowing to kingdom come when his wastegate actuator went bad and the engine went full boost (probably 30+psi)... it's actually the reason why I built his motor because all it did was cracked the piston and it started drinking oil like crazy... not even a scratch in the block!

you might think "oh, I'll just back off the throttle when I hear pinking"... it's usually too late when you hear that.... my own J&S picked up pinking without even being audible... mind you I didn't even adjust its sensitivity all the way up! The greatest thing about the J&S over many other systems is the fact that it works all the way up to redline and it also has been race proven (used by lots of major race teams)... mazdaspeed at one time also sold these too
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Old 18-10-2011, 05:14 PM   #128
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Ok. So I have the car back. Idle is just a little high but within tolerance (just). Same with the mixture. It is a little lean, but it is where most performance mechanics tune cars too. So basically I have sports tuning on a stock ECU!!!!

Still having problems when I take the foot off the gas while driving. Car searches for appropriate revs. So when I go down hills the car is still revving up and down, up and down.

I think I read somewhere that this was a fault in the transmission. Am about to hit google and see if I can refind this info.
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Old 19-10-2011, 06:02 AM   #129
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engine surges during coasting could have something to do with a misaligned throttle sensor... make sure it is set correctly.... its position can be adjusted to compensate for different throttle body plate positionings... I had this happen to my toyota tarago van but I corrected it
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Old 19-10-2011, 07:22 AM   #130
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Someone here mentioned the timing belt. One notch off can cause problems. Would they be similar?
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Old 19-10-2011, 08:27 AM   #131
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engine will run horrible with 1 tooth off... loss of power, rough idle, etc... seen it myself
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Old 19-10-2011, 10:38 AM   #132
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Yeah it sounded amazing when i had mine one off but no power. Torque was way down too.
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Old 19-10-2011, 09:29 PM   #133
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Ok. So I have the car back. Idle is just a little high but within tolerance (just). Same with the mixture. It is a little lean, but it is where most performance mechanics tune cars too. So basically I have sports tuning on a stock ECU!!!
come again? how is running lean and risking detination a good thing.
detination equals cracked pistons and warped valve heads.
i doubt any good performance tuner would tune a car lean.
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Old 19-10-2011, 09:35 PM   #134
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running as lean as possible yields the most power, but without a knock control unit (J&S Safeguard), it is extremely risky
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Old 19-10-2011, 09:42 PM   #135
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Define lean. Leaner than stock or as lean as possible are two entirely different points in the reliability scale...
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Old 19-10-2011, 09:47 PM   #136
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lean as possible = just below the threshold of pinking.... you set the fuel maps then the J&S does the rest by adjusting timing as it listens to the engine... works great with forced induction because you can push into 13:1 to 14:1 AFRs
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Old 19-10-2011, 10:07 PM   #137
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So repeating the words of my previous post. My car is running a little lean.

So not as lean as possible. Not lean. Just a little lean. Yet again. It is in an acceptable tolerance. Way off requiring a knock sensor to stop my motor from ending up in the boot!!
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Old 19-10-2011, 10:16 PM   #138
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Im pretty sure that the FP and FS have a knock sensor, I just checked my wiring diagrams and it say it has, not as flash as a J&S safeguard but it should do a better job of monitoring everything.
Your not using any FS O2 sensors or anything with your FP ECU?
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Old 19-10-2011, 10:42 PM   #139
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Seriously Phil, I'm F'd if I know what is in this car anymore!! They didn't bill me for one so I am guessing not. From what I can tell it is the FP throttle body, intake, MAF and O2 Temp sensor.

Again, not sure if there is any difference between the FP and FS versions anyway. Thinking I may take the car to Mazda itself. They should have enough parts to sort it out. Although in not sure about the cost. Then again, I've blown way over what I wanted to spend already. And as much as the car is close to being right, it's still NOT right. Just can't afford anymore work for no reward.
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Old 20-10-2011, 05:46 AM   #140
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Im pretty sure that the FP and FS have a knock sensor, I just checked my wiring diagrams and it say it has, not as flash as a J&S safeguard but it should do a better job of monitoring everything.
Your not using any FS O2 sensors or anything with your FP ECU?
the stock knock sensors are useless
the ECU has a slow response time and narrow timing adjustment range when knock is detected... please accept what I have to say, you are not safe using the stock knock sensor after significant engine modifications... I experienced this myself first hand after I upgraded the cams and intake manifold..... the ECU just couldn't compensate fast and good enough! I could hear the pinking under high loads! also, look at the hundreds who blew up their turbo FS motors with just some light modifications to their mazdaspeeds... it's not that the motor is weak (it is but really isn't), it's because it gets killed by detonation

like I said before, my friend's motor didn't blow up because he has a J&S.... motor got damaged yes (caused by a faulty wastegate actuator), but it saved it well enough to allow a rebuild... his brother also has a J&S and it kept the motor together running a lot of boost until the idiot blew it up because he didn't top up the oil!
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