Urgent Cam Specs NA BP 1.8

[Drift Thorpey]

Good evening folks,

I haven't used search nor trawled the forums looking for a previously used cam shaft spec line-up due to time constraints.

I am getting my cams reground by MRC Performace in Melb for good prices as my car will most likely be his test mule. Has anyone used a certain camshaft made by a brand before to give them a fair old kick in the pants above about 4-5000RPM?

http://www.camtechcams.com.au/maz_4cyl_1.8_dohc.html

I was thinking of shooting for a halfway cam between the last two camshafts available on camtech's list.

Any links or info on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

Regards

Chris Thorpe

[Ice88]

Ironic. You have time constraints, so you make a thread and wait for someone to post.

One would think that searching would have been faster.

[project.r.racing]

Maruha
Toda
Tomei
Tomcam
Flyin Miata
Tighe Cams
Solomiata
Integral Cams

all do camshafts for a NA BP-05 engine.

[Drift Thorpey]

It was done in conjunction with searching Ice, figured you plant many seeds and see which bears the best fruit the fastest.

Project R is that the same 1.8 that is in my '89 Astina? Just don't want to get it mixed up with an MX-5 part and be stuffed. I'm looking more for numbers and specs so that MRC can do a regrind, but doesn't waste time on numbers that aren't going to make any power once he's finished.

Thanks for your help so far guys.

[project.r.racing]

The inturnals on a BG/BA/BH/KF/KH/KJ 323/Astina/Protege/Laser/Liata BP-05 engine is the same as a NA8 MX5/Roadster/Miata BP-05 engine.

with regrinds though, you are only gonna get limited gains. so really looking at the manufacturers that offer new cams, isn't gonna help. i just put them up there for reference.

if i was trying to save $400, then i'd go regrinds. but then again you'll only get 50% of the gains.

dunno if I'd wanna spend $300-$400 on regrinds for 4-6kW gains. (unless you are getting shims also???) the Maruha ones for example will get you 8-12kW, and cost $800 new.

unless of course you are getting your regrinds alot cheaper?

you getting cams gears also?

[Drift Thorpey]

Have no idea on what the exact cost is going to be, but the price will be significantly lower than buying them new. I'm not expecting magic numbers, and will be getting adjustable cam gears like a good boy, so that I can make use of what little mods I have done so far.

Matt will be doing a lot more research than what I can (he has a stupidly big kowledge base to start with) I was just asked to search around as much as I could to try and find what numbers people are putting onto performance cams for my engine, as he mainly deals with 6cyl motors.

I have read a few times about making sure 'shims' go with a new set of cams. Sorry for the stupid question, but what exactly are the shims for and where are they located when the changeover takes place?

Thanks for your help project.r

[Ice88]

Its a metal disc which is used to bridge the distance between the cam love and the valve. When you regrind cams you need to remeasure and get new shims.

IIRC percisionshims down in melb provide cheap shims

[Drift Thorpey]

Ah I understand now. I know the generic purpose of shims, just not exactly what they were for in this instance.

I'll leave sourcing the shims to Matt, he may even make his own if that is the case.

Once all done and dusted, I will post specs and gains with readout proofs and such. Heading down to Modbury Morpowa on the 11th for power runs to get some stock figures.

Thanks for the help so far guys, massive props

Regards

Chris Thorpe

[TheMAN]

probably the cheapest cams you can get are the factory ones.... especially if you find them 2nd hand
the BP22 intake/BP05 exhaust cams came in the european and 3rd world BP engines for the early BGs... those were the non-catalysed BGs that you aussies didn't get.... some of the kiwis got a few of them... this engine had 9.8:1 compression pistons and more aggressive camshafts... cheap upgrade parts if you can find them.... I don't know the specs of them, but if anyone happens to have the volume 2 of the 89 BG shop manual, it should be listed there (please post them!)

the other option are the 98-00 MX-5 cams... it requires a solid lifter conversion.... the shims and buckets will have to be purchased also... it will cost more but it is the next cheapest thing and is probably the best intermediate upgrade if you plan on replacing them with aftermarket cams in the future

[project.r.racing]

the other option are the 98-00 MX-5 cams... it requires a solid lifter conversion.... the shims and buckets will have to be purchased also... it will cost more but it is the next cheapest thing and is probably the best intermediate upgrade if you plan on replacing them with aftermarket cams in the future

Fail!

[Drift Thorpey]

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

Fail!

How comes?

THE MAN: I am getting custom ones made (grinded) and just need a base set of numbers to work from and I will most likely be trying to get another set made up later on depending on the results of my fabricated cams.

Not really looking for supercheap option as MRC are looking after my wallet quite nicely considering base starting prices for intake/exhaust camshaft set.

Side note, Ashlee goes in for a dyno on Friday to get a base level figure

Will post the numbers from a stock twin cam with $12 Saas pod and box when I has them

[DavoAust]

Cheapest cam upgrade = exhaust cam as an intake cam (with the dissy lopped off)

Drifty, unless you're going to run exhaust & emu (piggyback or not) you won't get a huge lot out of the cams. Cam gears will help (esp. lightened ones) but you'll still need to run management of some sort.

No point running NB cams unless you get the whole intake setup, including vics & vvt. Thats were most of the extra power comes from

[TheMAN]

the early NB didn't have VVT and the VVT intake cam won't fit anyway... the head is very different

the early NB does have VICS, just like all BP-ZEs do, but the later NBs with VVT does not have VICS

the NB heads does flow more, but it's not worth the hassle making it work as it requires the matching intake manifold.... you'll get decent gains without them anyway

[project.r.racing]

Originally Posted by DavoAust

Cheapest cam upgrade = intake cam as an exhaust cam (with the dissy lopped off)

I'm sure you mean exhaust cam as a intake cam.

[project.r.racing]

Originally Posted by Drift Thorpey

How comes?

It is not the next cheapest option.
Buying hard to find parts 2nd hand and having them installed will be costly.
HLA friendly aftermarket camshafts are the next cheapest options.

[DavoAust]

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

I'm sure you mean exhaust cam as a intake cam.

Wow.. just wow.. must have had a massive brain fart. I'll update the original so ppl searching don't get bad info. Nice save

[Clean_Cookie]

What does this achieve?

[Drift Thorpey]

tc3 I believe the exhaust cams are more agressive than the intake ones so that the engine can release slightly more than what it can breathe in? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks for the comments guys, a defect and my ex stealing cash means I now have no money spare for MRC, but he's quite happy to wait, so probably check back in on this thread in the New Year and see how it all went.

Just to clarify guys, I'm not asking what will give me the best numbers on the dyno (hopefully MRC and I can figure out what specs work best in the end) I was just after some numbers that people know are reliable for good top end power.

I am fully aware that upgraded/high performance camshafts are pointless nearly without cam gears, ECU flexibility and some more fuel in the cylinders, so please no more shopping lists.

Thanks for all your help so far guys, I now ahve photos and such and will be filling out Ashlee's profile a bit mroe soon hopefully (time pending)

Regards
Chris

[project.r.racing]

in can is 233 duration
ex cam is 251 duration

puting the ex cam where the in cam should be increases duration for the in cam. more power, worse fuel economy.

my cams are:-
252d 9.2 lift 33.6 base
256d 9.5 lift 34.2 base

oem cams are:-
233d 8.1 lift 36.0 base
251d 8.6 lift 36.0 base

[Clean_Cookie]

So sayin that, your cams give more duration (open for longer I'm assuming) than the exhaust cam
Does, this give worse economy than the simple exhaust cam swap? Or due to changing both it runs more efficiently and makes loads more power? What does the base number mean?

Sorry I'm a total noob