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Old 20-11-2008, 04:48 PM   #21
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Try cleaning the pullies before putting the belts back on. It should stop the squeeling and minimise ware.
If your belt keeps streaching thin it may be a cheap crappy belt.
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Old 20-11-2008, 07:27 PM   #22
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Also make sure the pullies are aligned properly. I kept losing the accessories belts when the aircon one was slightly out.
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Old 20-11-2008, 11:39 PM   #23
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Try cleaning the pullies before putting the belts back on. It should stop the squeeling and minimise ware.
If your belt keeps streaching thin it may be a cheap crappy belt.
I'm pretty sure it's not the belts, 'cos they've been different brands with the same problem. I don't know how clean the pulleys themselves are, as an NRMA guy did the last belt change without me being there to see it. There is a lot of black gunk on the side of the alternator and around it though, so I think I'll attack it with the air compressor next time I fill up my tyres.

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Also make sure the pullies are aligned properly. I kept losing the accessories belts when the aircon one was slightly out.
How do I find out if they're aligned, and if they're out, how do I alter their alignment?

Thanks for the responses guys...
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Old 21-11-2008, 08:29 AM   #24
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string line, and visual check.
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Old 26-11-2008, 08:49 AM   #25
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Alternator is off but now I'm going to continue with the clutch and turbo since I'm most of the way into those jobs too and Im comfortable with the car off the road now.


I was reading the service manual last night and it says that when you pull the drive or joint shaft from the gearbox you should put a special tool into the hole ( I don't have the SST number handy right now ) to stop the gears from moving.

I've never heard of that before - do people do that ?


Also, before removing the engine mounts I need to support the engine. The book shows a bar going across the suspension towers with a hook holding the engine.

Where would I get that from ?
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Old 26-11-2008, 08:56 AM   #26
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Ah, good old SSTs. Stupid proprietary implements you don't use for anything else.

I just stick a block of wood under the oil pan and support the engine with a scissor jack and the drivers side mount.

As for the passenger side driveshaft, i've never stuck anything into the box to stop it rotating. Don't quite see the need!
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Old 26-11-2008, 09:12 AM   #27
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I was reading the service manual last night and it says that when you pull the drive or joint shaft from the gearbox you should put a special tool into the hole ( I don't have the SST number handy right now ) to stop the gears from moving.
The Haynes manual for the BG doesn't mention anything like this in the 'Driveaxle - removal and fitting' section. It's the same gearbox, so it shouldn't make a difference.
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Old 26-11-2008, 09:22 AM   #28
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The Haynes manual for the BG doesn't mention anything like this in the 'Driveaxle - removal and fitting' section. It's the same gearbox, so it shouldn't make a difference.
It'll be to stop the spider gears falling out of the diff...but if that happens, you've dropped the gearbox
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Old 26-11-2008, 09:37 AM   #29
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I just stick a block of wood under the oil pan and support the engine with a scissor jack and the drivers side mount.
sounds like a good DIY solution. Thanks

the further I go in this project, the bigger its gets !

In the service manual - the list of things to remove to get the gearbox out is huge

I think ( hope ) replacing the turbo is going to be the easiest bit. The only problem there is that I'll probably built myself an airbox and run new pipes from box to turbo. Finally I'll be able to get the cold air feed I've been wanting.
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Last edited by Dogo; 26-11-2008 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 26-11-2008, 10:06 AM   #30
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I figure I may as well get the flywheel machined for the new clutch ( just ordered an Exedy Heavy Duty kit ).
Rupe do you know who would do this nearby to work ( Caulfield still ) or home ?


I'm not looking forward to opening the box to find out why the neutral switch isnt working. Rupe if you're not too busy maybe next week, would I be able to borrow your expertise for that ? Maybe after work or on the weekend.
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Old 26-11-2008, 10:11 AM   #31
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Not sure who'd do a flywheel - i'ave always sent mine to be built with the particular clutch. Probably someone like ABS though could, as most workshops will just outsource it anyway.

Yeah, i'm free most of this weekend. Nights are out this week, but next week'd be ok.

Could be as simple as a broken wire on the neutral switch. What does it actually trigger/is it used for anyway? Obviously to tell the ECU that the gearbox is in neutral...but why? Opening the box is a last resort!
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Old 26-11-2008, 10:20 AM   #32
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The standard ECU seems to use the neutral/clutch switches as a trigger for closed loop.

I tested the continuity right at the wires going into the box and its not changing at all between in gear and in neutral.

The clutch switch and neutral switch combine before going into the ecu ( so that either will send the signal to the ecu ).

Its not a big deal but annoying. With the car idling and foot off the clutch the idle sits high, and in the fuel ratio gauge I can see that its not doing the 'closed loop bounce'. With the clutch pedal pressed the idle drops to normal and the bounce is back as it should be.

I'm on a mission to address get my car at a good running quality - and fix up any niggling little things like this.
I'm not interested in upgrades anymore - I want to get the car running well !
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Old 26-11-2008, 10:40 AM   #33
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Ahh, righto then.

I've probably got a spare switch off one of the myriad of F boxes i've got if you need one, too. Could be that it was put back without the spacer washer and is now worn and fubared.
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Old 26-11-2008, 11:01 AM   #34
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that would be great ! Lets hope mazda made them compatible.


Oh you may remember ages ago I was concerned that my driveshaft was visible where it joined the joint shaft. It turned out that the workshop who did my CVs/coilovers/wheels never pushed in in until it clicked on the circlip on the joint shaft.

Of course I realised this and accidently clicked it in BEFORE I realised that I'd need to take it back off again to get it out. sigh
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Old 26-11-2008, 11:06 AM   #35
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Ah that's no issue with the drivers side - there's no circlip into the gearbox so it's only held in place where it bolts to the block, so once you undo that it just slides out.
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Old 26-11-2008, 12:04 PM   #36
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Already done - the joint shaft had to come out to get the alternator out.

There was a whole lot of gunk behind that bracket joining the joint and driveshaft.
When I have my own garage I'll puk the whole engine out and give it a good clean and rebuild.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:33 AM   #37
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Update : job is going slowly.

I had a new adaptor plate made up for the turbo. Im going to grind the turbo inlet from 2" to 2.5". Silicone joins have arrived from ebay - so that job is coming along ok.

Gearbox still needs to come off. Supporting the engine on a jack freaks me out !
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Old 19-01-2009, 11:04 AM   #38
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PROJECT UPDATE

( and moved into new forum )

This project is taking a while - I don't have much time to work on it.


Exedy Sports Tuff clutch is on.
bell housing has been cleaned etc.
Gearbox is back on.

Filter -> AFM pipes etc have been constructed. I chopped up a BG airbox to run air up through the hole where the air conditioning used to be, and I've put the pod filter inside the side wall.

Engine mounts have been repaired/filled with Sikaflex ( 55 durometer. I think it was Sikaflex-255Extra. Ask me to check if you want to know )


The compressor turbine intake has been ground out on the hybrid vf12 turbo to 2.5". I've made up a 10mm adaptor plate with 2.5" inlet pipe. I've cleaned, reassembled and sealed the turbo. On the weekend I was working on some new water lines and the oil lines.

Note for future reference - the water banjo fittings on the vf12 core are a different bolt size to the vj20.

I've been considering what to do with the intake pipe to the turbo. The gearbox mount / clutch actuator is directly in the way of the opening. I can use the silicone join but it will be squished, else I can get an angled join welded onto the adaptor plate that I had made. Or I can just use a flexi pipe for now ( If I could find a shop that sold them )

I'm waiting on 3 bottles royal purple gearbox oil to come in, and some other parts. I need a new driveshaft hub nut and some new intercooler pipe.
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Old 19-01-2009, 11:53 AM   #39
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Quote:
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PROJECT UPDATE



I've been considering what to do with the intake pipe to the turbo. The gearbox mount / clutch actuator is directly in the way of the opening. I can use the silicone join but it will be squished, else I can get an angled join welded onto the adaptor plate that I had made. Or I can just use a flexi pipe for now ( If I could find a shop that sold them )
you could grind one of the corners neatly off the top of the engine mount bracket to give you abit more room too,as theres fark all room to play with
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Old 19-01-2009, 01:12 PM   #40
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True - i did consider grinding off the thread that sticks out and the bit that its attached to.

All that bolt does is hold the clutch fluid pipe in place. I could attach it to something else.


I ordered a new driveshaft hub nut this morning from the Ford place across the road from work. $44 for a nut !
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