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Old 03-05-2010, 12:30 PM   #121
chicaboo
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Who here knows about Short Course [SC] trucks? Everybody bar Tamiya seems to have one. Team Associated seem to be the only company making an e8 version. Everyone else is doing 2WD or 4WD e10s.

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Old 03-05-2010, 06:37 PM   #122
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Who here knows about Short Course [SC] trucks? Everybody bar Tamiya seems to have one. Team Associated seem to be the only company making an e8 version. Everyone else is doing 2WD or 4WD e10s.

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yeah. its like a stadium truck, the ones ive driven are 2wd. small light (CHEAP) plastic tub chassis with a HUGE expensive shell over it. large wheels (like buggy thickness but taller) and generally way overpowered motors installed :P

designed as a cheap fun build. people are starting to race them becuase of how tough and simple they are. dont handle well, and bounce all over the place out of the box (and spending money upgrading stuff isnt the point AFAIK). kinda like the mini racing thats started up over the past years as a cheap and fun alternative to the TC classes which are very compeditive. size wise it was larger than my 1/8 buggy, really wide body but not much to them at all.

hope this helps. talking about the traxxas offerings here - havent seen the AE ones driving in person.
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:38 PM   #123
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yeah. its like a stadium truck, the ones ive driven are 2wd. small light (CHEAP) plastic tub chassis with a HUGE expensive shell over it. large wheels (like buggy thickness but taller) and generally way overpowered motors installed :P

designed as a cheap fun build. people are starting to race them becuase of how tough and simple they are. dont handle well, and bounce all over the place out of the box (and spending money upgrading stuff isnt the point AFAIK). kinda like the mini racing thats started up over the past years as a cheap and fun alternative to the TC classes which are very compeditive. size wise it was larger than my 1/8 buggy, really wide body but not much to them at all.

hope this helps. talking about the traxxas offerings here - havent seen the AE ones driving in person.
also - doing research into a decent drifter - still undecided on what to buy... leaning towards TC4 or a yoko... 2nd hand of course. rc-tech.net/forum is the place to buy gear (in the australian section!)
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:55 PM   #124
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I've been looking at the SC trucks some more, and I like the HPI Blitz and TA SC10 [which has the best body shell!]. The Kyosho Ultima SC would be nice, but Kyosho aren't loyal to their customers, and drop parts after a short while, and it has the slowest motor too... The Traxxas Slash is easiest to get parts for, but I don't like the front servo location, and the chassis looks gay [water resistant receiver case is nice though].

Why spend so much on a drifter? I find you don't need a particularly awesome car to drift successfully, and part of the attraction is how cheap it is. My drifter is way cheaper than my offroad monster truck/buggy/truggy [which I'm trying really hard not to go brushless with...].

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Old 03-05-2010, 06:57 PM   #125
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Why spend so much on a drifter? I find you don't need a particularly awesome car to drift successfully, and part of the attraction is how cheap it is. My drifter is way cheaper than my offroad monster truck/buggy/truggy [which I'm trying really hard not to go brushless with...].

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x2, its not like we're going to be entering comps
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:05 PM   #126
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So whats a good beginner drifter to buy?
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:07 PM   #127
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So whats a good beginner drifter to buy?
In my opinion, a Tamiya TT-01D Cheap, parts a plenty, good for beginners like me!
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:20 PM   #128
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The TT01 or E10 are the 2 cheapest options for drifting but I have to say the best drift chassis I have ever seen is the HPI Pro-D but it is very expensive.
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:30 PM   #129
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I would suggest TT01D as well. I bought my TL01 in 2001, and adapted it for drift in 2005 [TL01D ]. If I didn't have an on-road chassis already, I would be looking at the TT01D now. Although I wish my current car was a TL01LA.

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Old 03-05-2010, 07:43 PM   #130
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best or best value. personally im always after the best value - but also something compeditive if i decide i want to persue that route. my tc3 spent alot of time sideways and enjoyed it alot - but the attraction with offroad was there. now i dont have the time for weekly offroading decided to persue the on road route and keep my traxxas stampede for indestructable fun offroad! with the money from the b44 ill pickup a 300ish deal with tons of spares and upgrades perhaps even a motor. as ive got escs and batteries coming out of my ears already! for me its not much $$ to buy a new chassis as ive spent 100's on the "extras"
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:12 PM   #131
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tt01 is the best beginer drifter. with the tb03 better if u dont want to spend $$$ upgrading, and will last u longer in the learing curve. (has more set-up options) steer clear of the e10's as they are a bit fragile. (not good for new to rc) another one to look at is the ta05, or sprint 2 (both belt drive though, and probably better as a in-between before u go factory carbon)

arguably the best drift cars are ta03 (legendary in the rc drift scene - banned from competition in some countries as it is counted as an unfair advantage) the tb evo's (III is legendary tough, but the IV and V are probably the best in terms of performance) the hpi pro-d is meant to be good, but expensive (however there are knockoffs on ebay that use the same parts, most buy these and replace with genuine parts when needed) and a few expensive race chassis, but not widely used anymore. (too fragile, and too expensive to upkeep with all the open diff's, belts, constant re-builds and tuning etc..)

my recommendation is a tt01, easy for parts, easy to set up, and every man and his dog has owned one. or a tb03 if u want something a bit more unique. and with more options. stay away from yokomo unless u live in adelaide (due to the aus supplier bieng hobby habbit who suck unless u go into the store, and even then everything is ridiculously overpriced, or no stock)

more inf visit melbrc.org
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what the astina lacks in power it makes up 4 in handling

straights are good for fast cars
corners are for fast drivers

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Old 03-05-2010, 08:17 PM   #132
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ah cool, thanks for all the info guys
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:19 PM   #133
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Fixed my chassis up a bit by replacing the cracked parts, bending the prop shaft back (it isn't the greatest but I will get a new one soon) and installing metal universal joints to replace the plastic dog bones. I also ordered some more purple alloy parts so will be arriving soon. I had to put an old shell on it which is my RX7 but I can't find the LED main power cable so the lights aren't working but it has dual red LED's in the rear, white in the main light area and blue in the park light area.
Here are some pics:











The upgrades I have done since getting stock are:
Shock tower brace front and rear
Adjustable shocks with progressive springs front and rear (easy to adjust for drift or grip)
Metal universals front and rear
Ball bearings throughout
Locked diff in the rear only
Sway bars front and rear
Alloy bearing steering kit
Alloy prop shaft (a bit worse for wear)
Alloy motor mount
9T brushless and 35A speedy

List of yet to do:
Replace stupid plastic hex's with alloy equivalent (big issue at the moment as they just keep breaking with the new motor)
Adjustable camber suspension arms
Better battery holder
Locked diff on the front as well (maybe)
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:00 PM   #134
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Why there a hole in the bonnet?
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:01 PM   #135
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I was making a custom scoop.

Will eventually just mesh it in with the front lip as well. As I said this is an old shell that I have had for quite a while now.
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:24 PM   #136
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fixed my rear diff today,
used a hammer will get a new diff soon, but replaced the broken joints and screw points with a 3mm screw rather then the 2mm original. the hammer was used to push out 2mm bearings for the original screw, and hammer home the new one to fit. needless to say its locked for drifting
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what the astina lacks in power it makes up 4 in handling

straights are good for fast cars
corners are for fast drivers

Last edited by spenaroo; 04-05-2010 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 05-05-2010, 05:54 PM   #137
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doing more research. might buy an xray for the track... still not sure. (but xray has one with saddle packs - which i have 5 sets of (lipo) so keen on that, its about 220 posted for the chassis...
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:43 PM   #138
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Finally replaced the connectors to Deans and got myself 2 lipo packs and charger. Much more response now.
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:53 PM   #139
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How much did that set you back?
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Old 06-05-2010, 01:18 PM   #140
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Mates rates so paid $100 for the charger and 2x 4000mah 2c batteries.
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