Oil Leak - Page 2

Walt · 24-02-2014, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clean_Cookie

Pistons are correct. 1-3-2-4.

The tensioner is just bolted out of the way until you've put the belt on the release it and then tighten the bolt again.

cheers for the reply mate.

So I slip the cambelt, put the spring back on, do as the fella says, and then, tighten the bolt.

btw, when I took the cambelt off, the pulley with the E marking jumped a tooth (towards the other pulley, and so I moved it back a tooth, but slight touch and it will move again) is this normal? sorry for silly questions, as it is my first cambelt change

Clean_Cookie · 25-02-2014, 12:21 AM

I've always had to hold them in place with spanners, while fitting the belt. So that's normal . Once the tensioner is pushing on the belt it wouldn't slip teeth.

Walt · 25-02-2014, 12:28 AM

Thanks Clean_Cookie, I really thought it was my engine doing random things

Walt · 06-03-2014, 10:37 PM

Update:

No Joy! starts well, idles well but slight rev, lots of smoke and the rev drops!

I tried different positions on cams (one tooth on each cam left/right) to no avail....

Here is a question: would I bend a valve if I turn a cam counterclockwise to a point that it won't move? (and I keep forcing it? )

ghetto3 · 07-03-2014, 12:39 AM

You wont bend a valve unless it is ridiculously out of time. Even then it'd be a decent gap, non interference engine meaning if cambelt breaks, valves stop, crank continues no touchy.
When you did the dizzy o-ring you may have moved the static timing a touch. Scribing a mark or using a texta or similar across dizzy body onto the head so you can replace in same position is a good practise. Otherwise grab an inductive timing light and attatch it to no.1 piston high tension lead, start her up and aim that sucker on the timing marks on crank and timing belt cover (that texta will be handy to make the marks more visible) and set timing to a static 10 degrees by loosening dizzy lock bolt and rotating dizzy this or that way slightly until 10d. marks line up with strobe flash. Tighten the dizzy up once bang on. A poor explanation but google around and you'll be right. It could explain the probs you are having if the timing was mega retarded or advanced.

Oh and if you removed the cam gears from cams, i don't see why you would, however make sure the cam dowels are both at 12oclock when i and eeeing everything up.

Walt · 07-03-2014, 01:17 PM

cheers for the reply ghetto3, when I changed the dizzy O ring, I did make a mark, and put it back to where it was, that was well before the timing belt. I run the engine several days after that and all was well except for the cranshaft seal leak and until I started the operation.

I do firmly believe that one or two valves are f**ed - will confirm this by doing a test later on (once I get hold of a gauge)

it starts well, idles well, but slight acceleration and plums of smoke and the rev goes up and down...

Will have to start a new thread>>> how do you change valves!

Walt · 17-03-2014, 12:04 PM

An update:

Have been busy with other stuff in life so had little time to look at the engine.

But I got hold of a compression tester

The data is as follows:

(1) (2) (3) (4)
Dry test: 190 190 190 190
Wet Test: 210 210 210 210
(in PSI)

there may have been slight and I mean very slight variation in reading.

I was pretty sure that once I do this test, it would show me a big difference between cylinders and I could start dissecting the engine etc

what you guys think about the data, should it be where it is?
I removed all spark plugs and I had a helper (missus) to crank the engine continuously for 5 seconds for each and every tests.

as I said before, the car idles fine but slight acceleration, the rev jumps up and down and plums of smoke!

project.r.racing · 17-03-2014, 01:40 PM

does it have zero running time? i'd expect those figures from a brand new engine.

but even if they are wrong, the varience is what you are looking for, and you have very little varience.

Walt · 17-03-2014, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

does it have zero running time? i'd expect those figures from a brand new engine.

but even if they are wrong, the varience is what you are looking for, and you have very little varience.

Hi mate, could you please elaborate on this?

project.r.racing · 17-03-2014, 02:20 PM

the compression figures you stated are almost like when a engine came out of the factory.

Walt · 17-03-2014, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

the compression figures you stated are almost like when a engine came out of the factory.

ah, alright.... I wished!

hmmm... this compression tester is made in China as usual

, it is brand new, yeah, it can be wrong, but very little variance.

Now I am scratching my head as what to do with her, I am thinking to get hold of a timing gun but then, I haven't moved the dizzy fella anywhere, it is where I put my marking (I know it's bang on)

Any other suggestions? fuel filter?

project.r.racing · 17-03-2014, 06:07 PM

did you take the dissy off at all?

did the rotor rotate at all?

these can be put back on 180 degrees wrong way if not paying attention.

Walt · 17-03-2014, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

did you take the dissy off at all?

did the rotor rotate at all?

these can be put back on 180 degrees wrong way if not paying attention.

Hmmm... yes I did take the dizzy off, the rotor did rotate, in fact, I rotated it myself...

I'd better check that

Cheers for the tip mate, appreciate it.

hang on a sec, the car was fine before the timing belt, oh what the heck, I'll play with the dizzy thingy anyway

project.r.racing · 17-03-2014, 07:18 PM

did you take the dissy cap off to note the rotor position before removing the whole cas/dissy unit? or just pulled the whole unit off and put back on?

Walt · 17-03-2014, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

did you take the dissy cap off to note the rotor position before removing the whole cas/dissy unit? or just pulled the whole unit off and put back on?

there you go mate, this is what I did, I had to take it to the shop to find the correct O ring.

and yes I did make a scratch on the unit and the valve cover (a mark), and made sure it was back in place correctly

Walt · 19-03-2014, 07:55 PM

Is there any EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve in these cars?

Walt · 20-03-2014, 10:52 AM

a quick update:

The engine holds on to power now, the rev doesn't drop off, took it for a spin and all good apart from smoke under heavy load!

Yesterday, I turned the E cam half a tooth to the left I think that did the trick of having a steady power! WAHOOO!!! YES BABY YES!!!

25-02-2014, 12:21 AM	#22
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	I've always had to hold them in place with spanners, while fitting the belt. So that's normal . Once the tensioner is pushing on the belt it wouldn't slip teeth. __________________ Worklog

07-03-2014, 12:39 AM	#25
ghetto3 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: north coast nsw Car: 97 ba 1.8 323 Posts: 799	You wont bend a valve unless it is ridiculously out of time. Even then it'd be a decent gap, non interference engine meaning if cambelt breaks, valves stop, crank continues no touchy. When you did the dizzy o-ring you may have moved the static timing a touch. Scribing a mark or using a texta or similar across dizzy body onto the head so you can replace in same position is a good practise. Otherwise grab an inductive timing light and attatch it to no.1 piston high tension lead, start her up and aim that sucker on the timing marks on crank and timing belt cover (that texta will be handy to make the marks more visible) and set timing to a static 10 degrees by loosening dizzy lock bolt and rotating dizzy this or that way slightly until 10d. marks line up with strobe flash. Tighten the dizzy up once bang on. A poor explanation but google around and you'll be right. It could explain the probs you are having if the timing was mega retarded or advanced. Oh and if you removed the cam gears from cams, i don't see why you would, however make sure the cam dowels are both at 12oclock when i and eeeing everything up. Last edited by ghetto3; 07-03-2014 at 12:49 AM.

25-02-2014, 12:28 AM	#23
Walt Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Melbourne Car: Astina 323 Posts: 42	Thanks Clean_Cookie, I really thought it was my engine doing random things

06-03-2014, 10:37 PM	#24
Walt Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Melbourne Car: Astina 323 Posts: 42	Update: No Joy! starts well, idles well but slight rev, lots of smoke and the rev drops! I tried different positions on cams (one tooth on each cam left/right) to no avail.... Here is a question: would I bend a valve if I turn a cam counterclockwise to a point that it won't move? (and I keep forcing it? )

07-03-2014, 01:17 PM	#26
Walt Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Melbourne Car: Astina 323 Posts: 42	cheers for the reply ghetto3, when I changed the dizzy O ring, I did make a mark, and put it back to where it was, that was well before the timing belt. I run the engine several days after that and all was well except for the cranshaft seal leak and until I started the operation. I do firmly believe that one or two valves are f**ed - will confirm this by doing a test later on (once I get hold of a gauge) it starts well, idles well, but slight acceleration and plums of smoke and the rev goes up and down... Will have to start a new thread>>> how do you change valves!

17-03-2014, 12:04 PM	#27
Walt Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Melbourne Car: Astina 323 Posts: 42	An update: Have been busy with other stuff in life so had little time to look at the engine. But I got hold of a compression tester The data is as follows: (1) (2) (3) (4) Dry test: 190 190 190 190 Wet Test: 210 210 210 210 (in PSI) there may have been slight and I mean very slight variation in reading. I was pretty sure that once I do this test, it would show me a big difference between cylinders and I could start dissecting the engine etc what you guys think about the data, should it be where it is? I removed all spark plugs and I had a helper (missus) to crank the engine continuously for 5 seconds for each and every tests. as I said before, the car idles fine but slight acceleration, the rev jumps up and down and plums of smoke!

17-03-2014, 01:40 PM	#28
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	does it have zero running time? i'd expect those figures from a brand new engine. but even if they are wrong, the varience is what you are looking for, and you have very little varience.

17-03-2014, 02:20 PM	#30
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	the compression figures you stated are almost like when a engine came out of the factory.

17-03-2014, 06:07 PM	#32
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	did you take the dissy off at all? did the rotor rotate at all? these can be put back on 180 degrees wrong way if not paying attention.

17-03-2014, 07:18 PM	#34
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	did you take the dissy cap off to note the rotor position before removing the whole cas/dissy unit? or just pulled the whole unit off and put back on?

19-03-2014, 07:55 PM	#36
Walt Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Melbourne Car: Astina 323 Posts: 42	Is there any EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve in these cars?

20-03-2014, 10:52 AM	#37
Walt Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Melbourne Car: Astina 323 Posts: 42	a quick update: The engine holds on to power now, the rev doesn't drop off, took it for a spin and all good apart from smoke under heavy load! Yesterday, I turned the E cam half a tooth to the left I think that did the trick of having a steady power! WAHOOO!!! YES BABY YES!!!