95 BA hatch AUTO - Page 4

project.r.racing · 25-03-2010, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miah87

Guys, I just want to confirm Astina BA 1995 fuel consumption before making any decision. I need to know that:

How many Litres of petrol does it have? (According to Redbook, it has 55 litres full tank) but I just add my fuel just now and it is only 38.43 litres.

How many km/ltr can it run? (Mine is currently 8km/litre)

Is my fuel consumption really really bad?

Additional information: full tank = 300km

EDITED

Should I drive till the orange light comes on?

Sorry but getting 300km from 38.43 litres is 12.81L per 100km.

You should be getting 8-9L per 100km. or 11-13km/litre.

You are using 33%ish more fuel than normal. From a auto, I would expect 9L/100km usage.

miah87 · 25-03-2010, 07:53 PM

Thx for the comment everyone, Since it is that bad, I will probably get my o2 sensor changed or other parts that affect it...

70NYD · 25-03-2010, 10:05 PM

auto is worst manily cus of the torque converter taking time to lockup, and basically when ur parked with engine on, the torque converter is still putting resistance to the engine cus the wheels cant move. this is mainly the reason. the 4/5 speed doesnt make MUCH of the difference cus of OD

miah87 · 26-03-2010, 09:27 AM

I know that auto will used more fuel than the manual but my brother's car is a 1.7 and he could run 400 and more with 40 litre tank... Im currently running 300km on a full tank and wanting to increase it to at least 350km.. Hopefully can increase to 400...

70NYD · 26-03-2010, 09:56 AM

u SHOULD be getting 500... how do u drive? does the peddal spend a lot of time on the floor?

miah87 · 26-03-2010, 10:14 AM

I rarely press the pedal pass 3000RPM... Only when someone is tailing me really close then I will press it a lil harder mayb 3500RPM... I normally use the highway to school and back... Since the car has a really bad fuel consumption, I never race away from the lights.

70NYD · 26-03-2010, 10:30 AM

no i dont mean do u rev it. i dont go past 4000rpm but i get there with full throttle almost every time (well i used 2 but now im scared my clutch will let go while im on the way to uni..)
what i meant is do you press the pedal hard to get to the 3000rpm? and when ur at 3000rpm how hard do u press then? and have u checked ur transmition fluid lately?

miah87 · 26-03-2010, 11:08 AM

Just had a minor service and changed transmission fluid few days ago. The pedal is not hard..

70NYD · 26-03-2010, 02:46 PM

omg this is the last time i asy this cus u clearly dont understand what i am saying.
HOW HARD DO YOU PUSH THE PEDAL ON THE FLOOR?? ALL THE WAY TILL IT CANNOT GO ANY MORE? OR JUST ENOUGH FOR THE CAR TO MOVE FORWARD?

miah87 · 26-03-2010, 02:56 PM

LOL... I know what u r saying.. I just answered it wrongly xD... I actually want to answer I did not push the pedal hard.. Yea just enough to get the car running...

70NYD · 26-03-2010, 09:23 PM

oh lol im sorry man
yeah i dont know then ay. a blocked catalytic converter??
WAY underinflated tyres.
brakes not adjusted properly (so dragging.. butthis would not effect after a while) buggered O2 sensor... try ressetting ur ECU by taking the negative terminal of your battery and thenputting your foot on the brake for 30 seconds.
then reconect the battery.
maybe u hav a monkey somewhere in ur system

miah87 · 26-03-2010, 09:39 PM

hmmmm... Want to see a list of problem that my car has now?

- Fuel consumption(300km full tank)

- CV Joint - turning and bumping sound

- Brakes squealing noise - really annoying(it gets louder)

- Indicator and high beam sensitivity - When indicator to the left or right, turning the steering a lil will knock back the indicator. High beam is very sensitivity, it usually comes on whenever I use the indicator.. might be wiring problem

- A/C smells - I can temporarily get rid of the smell by turning on the fan only for 10 minutes then on the air con.

- Oil leaks - minor oil leaks but have to be fix I guess

- Something near the cv joint is loose and makes a sound while driving. Similar to wheel bearing sound...

- White smoke every morning and sometimes blowing water...

RustyKaos · 26-03-2010, 10:06 PM

Wow. That sure is a list. I know these older cars get more problems as they get older but that list just looks like negligence from the previous owner.

miah87 · 26-03-2010, 10:23 PM

The more I think of it the more I hated it... Can't stop hatin the seller.. I know its my fault not to check properly... But still...

Clean_Cookie · 27-03-2010, 07:19 AM

i feel really sorry for you! kike I've done all my service work and the only thing out of.negligance is the engine which didnt cost too much and tusks experiencewas invaluable in my opinion. and sadly you've paid morsel than i did 18months ago! anyway get it sorted nd enjoy it! also highway milafe should be 450+ on GOOD FUEL. what fuel do you use? ive gotten 220kms from cheap e10 and withh the same driving on bp ultimate 400kms...

mikey_something · 27-03-2010, 07:33 AM

brake squeeling could probly be kknocked off the list with a change of pads and new discs or machining them.

relatively cheap exercise too

i found i was accidentally switching the highbeam on when indicating when i first got my car but i got used to it... maybe thats it? is it feeling loose?
could be missing some springs inside it or something.

not sure about it auto cancelling really easily...
i thought that was caused by small teeth inside at various angles of turn
wouldn't make sense that u got more of them lol!

miah87 · 27-03-2010, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001

i feel really sorry for you! kike I've done all my service work and the only thing out of.negligance is the engine which didnt cost too much and tusks experiencewas invaluable in my opinion. and sadly you've paid morsel than i did 18months ago! anyway get it sorted nd enjoy it! also highway milafe should be 450+ on GOOD FUEL. what fuel do you use? ive gotten 220kms from cheap e10 and withh the same driving on bp ultimate 400kms...

Yea, need to fix it asap and enjoy it xD... I'm using Unleaded fuel from Shell... Is that good?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikey_something

brake squeeling could probly be kknocked off the list with a change of pads and new discs or machining them.

relatively cheap exercise too

i found i was accidentally switching the highbeam on when indicating when i first got my car but i got used to it... maybe thats it? is it feeling loose?
could be missing some springs inside it or something.

not sure about it auto cancelling really easily...
i thought that was caused by small teeth inside at various angles of turn
wouldn't make sense that u got more of them lol!

How much is changing new discs and pads cost... I recently switch to my friend's mechanic which is more well known and professional. My previous mechanic couldn't check most of the problem that my car has and I think he is trying to ripped me off? Cause he told me that to change my CV Joint will cost me 400 <<<< only the cost of the cv joint (right and left) not including labour... BUT I saw them selling on ebay for 198 for both...

And the highbeam is not missing any spring or what, The spring is still there, it will still click if I really turn on the highbeam.. BUT it will also comes on when I just touch it a lil, just a light touch then it comes on... I'm guessing the wiring problem but I don't know how to fix it...

70NYD · 27-03-2010, 11:43 AM

the highbeam would not be a wiring problem. the stalk is probably warn out. its easy to replace it and if u get the replacment stalk from the wreckers it should be cheap 2.
where doeas it leak oil? the general place for the BP is the dizzy O ring (5 min worth of work if u mark out where the dizzy was to start of with (so u dont **** up the timing)
as for the seccond most common oil leak on the BP is the cam cover. its about 20 min work of work, most of which involves removing the gasket gue that makes up the corner seals for where cams are. the cover should be torqued down properly as well.. but yeah that would fix (should fix) most of the leaks..
hope this helps

mikey_something · 27-03-2010, 11:52 AM

my brakes and all that was under $200... i cant remember exactly

miah87 · 27-03-2010, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70NYD

where doeas it leak oil?

I don't know what do you call that but I can see oil just beside the rocker cover... The one where the plug leads are connected... I guess that's the place you need to cover when washing the engine... Hope you understand what I'm saying.. hehe

25-03-2010, 07:53 PM	#62
miah87 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Flemington Car: R33 sedan Posts: 212 View Photos By: miah87	Thx for the comment everyone, Since it is that bad, I will probably get my o2 sensor changed or other parts that affect it... __________________ hmmm

25-03-2010, 10:05 PM	#63
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	auto is worst manily cus of the torque converter taking time to lockup, and basically when ur parked with engine on, the torque converter is still putting resistance to the engine cus the wheels cant move. this is mainly the reason. the 4/5 speed doesnt make MUCH of the difference cus of OD __________________

26-03-2010, 09:27 AM	#64
miah87 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Flemington Car: R33 sedan Posts: 212 View Photos By: miah87	I know that auto will used more fuel than the manual but my brother's car is a 1.7 and he could run 400 and more with 40 litre tank... Im currently running 300km on a full tank and wanting to increase it to at least 350km.. Hopefully can increase to 400... __________________ hmmm

26-03-2010, 09:56 AM	#65
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	u SHOULD be getting 500... how do u drive? does the peddal spend a lot of time on the floor? __________________

26-03-2010, 10:14 AM	#66
miah87 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Flemington Car: R33 sedan Posts: 212 View Photos By: miah87	I rarely press the pedal pass 3000RPM... Only when someone is tailing me really close then I will press it a lil harder mayb 3500RPM... I normally use the highway to school and back... Since the car has a really bad fuel consumption, I never race away from the lights. __________________ hmmm

26-03-2010, 10:30 AM	#67
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	no i dont mean do u rev it. i dont go past 4000rpm but i get there with full throttle almost every time (well i used 2 but now im scared my clutch will let go while im on the way to uni..) what i meant is do you press the pedal hard to get to the 3000rpm? and when ur at 3000rpm how hard do u press then? and have u checked ur transmition fluid lately? __________________

26-03-2010, 11:08 AM	#68
miah87 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Flemington Car: R33 sedan Posts: 212 View Photos By: miah87	Just had a minor service and changed transmission fluid few days ago. The pedal is not hard.. __________________ hmmm

26-03-2010, 02:46 PM	#69
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	omg this is the last time i asy this cus u clearly dont understand what i am saying. HOW HARD DO YOU PUSH THE PEDAL ON THE FLOOR?? ALL THE WAY TILL IT CANNOT GO ANY MORE? OR JUST ENOUGH FOR THE CAR TO MOVE FORWARD? __________________

26-03-2010, 02:56 PM	#70
miah87 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Flemington Car: R33 sedan Posts: 212 View Photos By: miah87	LOL... I know what u r saying.. I just answered it wrongly xD... I actually want to answer I did not push the pedal hard.. Yea just enough to get the car running... __________________ hmmm

26-03-2010, 09:23 PM	#71
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	oh lol im sorry man yeah i dont know then ay. a blocked catalytic converter?? WAY underinflated tyres. brakes not adjusted properly (so dragging.. butthis would not effect after a while) buggered O2 sensor... try ressetting ur ECU by taking the negative terminal of your battery and thenputting your foot on the brake for 30 seconds. then reconect the battery. maybe u hav a monkey somewhere in ur system __________________

26-03-2010, 09:39 PM	#72
miah87 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Flemington Car: R33 sedan Posts: 212 View Photos By: miah87	hmmmm... Want to see a list of problem that my car has now? - Fuel consumption(300km full tank) - CV Joint - turning and bumping sound - Brakes squealing noise - really annoying(it gets louder) - Indicator and high beam sensitivity - When indicator to the left or right, turning the steering a lil will knock back the indicator. High beam is very sensitivity, it usually comes on whenever I use the indicator.. might be wiring problem - A/C smells - I can temporarily get rid of the smell by turning on the fan only for 10 minutes then on the air con. - Oil leaks - minor oil leaks but have to be fix I guess - Something near the cv joint is loose and makes a sound while driving. Similar to wheel bearing sound... - White smoke every morning and sometimes blowing water... __________________ hmmm

26-03-2010, 10:06 PM	#73
RustyKaos Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: North Side Brisbane Car: 1998 BA 323 Astina Hardtop Posts: 1,414 View Photos By: RustyKaos	Wow. That sure is a list. I know these older cars get more problems as they get older but that list just looks like negligence from the previous owner. __________________ Everytime an idiot dies, 20 more are born. Come challenge me. I dare ya.

26-03-2010, 10:23 PM	#74
miah87 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Flemington Car: R33 sedan Posts: 212 View Photos By: miah87	The more I think of it the more I hated it... Can't stop hatin the seller.. I know its my fault not to check properly... But still... __________________ hmmm

27-03-2010, 07:19 AM	#75
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	i feel really sorry for you! kike I've done all my service work and the only thing out of.negligance is the engine which didnt cost too much and tusks experiencewas invaluable in my opinion. and sadly you've paid morsel than i did 18months ago! anyway get it sorted nd enjoy it! also highway milafe should be 450+ on GOOD FUEL. what fuel do you use? ive gotten 220kms from cheap e10 and withh the same driving on bp ultimate 400kms... __________________ Worklog

27-03-2010, 07:33 AM	#76
mikey_something Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: NSW Car: 1998 Toyota Supra 3.0L Twin Turbo Posts: 1,413 View Photos By: mikey_something	brake squeeling could probly be kknocked off the list with a change of pads and new discs or machining them. relatively cheap exercise too i found i was accidentally switching the highbeam on when indicating when i first got my car but i got used to it... maybe thats it? is it feeling loose? could be missing some springs inside it or something. not sure about it auto cancelling really easily... i thought that was caused by small teeth inside at various angles of turn wouldn't make sense that u got more of them lol! __________________ 1996 Mazda 323 Astina BA Hatch 1.8L - No Longer Mine

27-03-2010, 11:43 AM	#78
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	the highbeam would not be a wiring problem. the stalk is probably warn out. its easy to replace it and if u get the replacment stalk from the wreckers it should be cheap 2. where doeas it leak oil? the general place for the BP is the dizzy O ring (5 min worth of work if u mark out where the dizzy was to start of with (so u dont **** up the timing) as for the seccond most common oil leak on the BP is the cam cover. its about 20 min work of work, most of which involves removing the gasket gue that makes up the corner seals for where cams are. the cover should be torqued down properly as well.. but yeah that would fix (should fix) most of the leaks.. hope this helps __________________

27-03-2010, 11:52 AM	#79
mikey_something Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: NSW Car: 1998 Toyota Supra 3.0L Twin Turbo Posts: 1,413 View Photos By: mikey_something	my brakes and all that was under $200... i cant remember exactly __________________ 1996 Mazda 323 Astina BA Hatch 1.8L - No Longer Mine