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Old 24-01-2013, 09:48 PM   #21
Hammo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sim08u View Post
I want an mps now
you have to wheels so your part way there


Ben good buy shame about the SP20 but hey new car hahaha
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Old 25-01-2013, 09:58 AM   #22
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Everyone thinks that its going to have epic torque steer, guess what. It doesn't. Yes it does have it, but really, its nothing like your going to spin off and crash into a tree. If your steering (Which is recommended when giving it to it) you have no problems. With normal driving and a little squirt of boost at the lights, no torque steer present at all. You have to be driving it hard for it to happen. I turned a corner last night when i was taking off (Not going crazy fast or anything) and i hit a pot hole and it kind of flicked then. That's the only time i've found the torque steer under normal driving conditions.
Good to know, I really have a soft spot for these cars. May well end up with one considering how cheap they are getting. Enjoy!
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Old 25-01-2013, 10:37 AM   #23
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The torque steer isn't heavy on these cars. And if you align them right, it is nearlly all gone.

Mazda have some seriously bad specs for these alignment wise. If you look on OzMPS in the Wheel/Tyres/Handling section, you'll find a few threads about alignment/tyre wear/steering.

Someone suggested going outside the crappy Mazda specs and dialling in your own specs, and it worked. Reduced tyre wear, improved steering. And alot of users have follow suit in the past 2 years.
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Old 25-01-2013, 10:37 AM   #24
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you need to do a UKDM mirror upgrade


stock sucks!
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Old 25-01-2013, 11:29 AM   #25
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it is a convex shape for wide view?
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Old 25-01-2013, 11:51 AM   #26
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Holy cow ^^^ those UK mirrors are amazing
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Old 25-01-2013, 12:03 PM   #27
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hmmm wonder if they can fit on a BJ or BA... mmmmm
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Old 25-01-2013, 12:17 PM   #28
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Mirrors wouldnt matter to me anyways, they vibrate when the music/sub is on
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Old 25-01-2013, 12:46 PM   #29
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Mirrors wouldnt matter to me anyways, they vibrate when the music/sub is on
or in my case solid engine mounts :-P
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Old 25-01-2013, 02:48 PM   #30
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hmmm wonder if they can fit on a BJ or BA... mmmmm
sure



stock still sucks!
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Old 25-01-2013, 02:52 PM   #31
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it is a convex shape for wide view?
convex spherical + convex aspherical for outer portion of driver's side mirror... a UK/Irish/Maltese and European/Israeli unique feature for Mazdas

the EDM and UKDM Mazda3 mirrors are heated only, but the Mazda6 has a non-heated version that fits
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Old 30-01-2013, 07:12 PM   #32
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What and interesting covno about mirrors! Haha.

I got my number plates on a few days ago. I've also gave it a full polish and wax...The top surfaces need a cut and polish as they do feel a bit rough still.



(The shine off the roof)


I've also done a LOC conversion on the stock Bose system, i now have my Type R in and it actually sounds better than my SP20 ever did. The bose speakers are amazingly crystal clear...Shame about the sub...Its still plugged in, but i think the R kind of eliminates it

Also been meaning to update, its got this little thing installed too. It no blasty since we like stealth. Also thanks to Azza for explaining on how it works to me haha.



It's also been running a bit rough at idle. I cleaned the air filter and MAF and that did fix it, however when it was warm and i re-started at the shops it was a bit rough again...My friend thinks it sounds like a diesel haha. So that will be looked at ASAP. I'm not overly concerned since its still running fine once you put your foot on the accelerator. Might just be a faulty MAF, change the timing or something? up the revs? haha I dunno, im no mechanic haha.. Any suggestions are welcome.

Last edited by Ben; 30-01-2013 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 30-01-2013, 07:50 PM   #33
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Being a boosted car... Naturally look for vacuum leaks. Under bonnet temps get way hotter in boosted cars and result in rubber hoses deteriorating quickly.

Also, as per usual... Clean EGR, AFM, plugs and leads first.

That's where I would start anyways.
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Old 30-01-2013, 08:43 PM   #34
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Turbo car - Mazda system - it will be sealed one so any leak will casue issue.

Spark plugs Will be eaten. Two things work agaisnt you - Long stroke engine and ignition control.

My only advice - considering the issue with all modern turbo cars - Try a BMW335I - that can shut down anytime.

IMO best modifications to turbo cars is - COATINGS. yep - ceramic - any heat type coating to as much as you can. Manifold - heat sheilds it all helps.
A Mates RB30 had it doen to it's Gt42 rear housing and manifold on one night - I lent into the enigne bay to adjust the wastegate actuator and well. My skin didn't stick. Yeah I was burnt but I got heaps of burns on my arms where skin stuck from a mear 300.

Best long term reduction in breaking plastic bits and best for FREE POWER.
When I mean free, like for like. You can drive long and more consistant with these coatings, alot less heat soak and I've found where A/C is applied Compressors and lines last longer and work better.

Oh and IMO cheap. I don't know how or why people think it's expensive. I mean yeah some powder coatings when they all fancy show crap Yes. but you can do a valve cover and heat sheilds for approx $200 in ceramic coat. Gives mild shiny silver.

Esential if you do the pipes and cooler.
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:06 PM   #35
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Bit of a update. First off, i've wired in a LOC to run my subwoofer. All went smoothly except it was a bit of a PITA to get to it...couldnt get the seat out because ONE bolt was so tight that i managed to break my socket on it...I dont get it? So anyways, i kind of just chocked it up and sat on the floor and soldered it with a great deal of discomfort...Otherwise, its now working

(bad picture)




Then while i was at it with half the parts ripped up so i could run the power cord, i gave it a much needed clean. Found a parking ticket, lots of those blue rocks that come of the women species's bangles. Many hairclips and a Barbie plastic bracelet! And 25cents....Paying for itself already! Then gave my seats another round of leather cleaner. The cracks are slowly coming out. Hopefully a few more doses and it will be much better! Scroll up to the top to see how i got it the first day.






THEN! (God i've done more than i think) i cleaned up the engine bay a bit and got one hell of a service.

Mechanic tells me its in A1 condition. It was idling rough when AC is on. Kind of sounded like a diesel and it had a bit of a jump when at about 2k revs with just normal driving....However, a new set of spark plugs and leads fixed this...The spark plugs kind of resembled this...(Not my picture)






Im also awaiting a set of weather shields from ebay...

And here's some random pictures of it...





Thats enough talking now...Comments always welcome
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:27 PM   #36
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your coolant level is low!
refill with FL22 or distilled water!
you're missing a cap for one of the aircon service ports too
the washer fluid cap doesn't look like it's all the way on either

whatever you do don't get rid of the battery box! It has an inlet hole for the cooling duct under the bonnet... it cools the battery and ECU next to it... it prolongs battery life and reduces terminal corrosion!

Get rid of that pod filter! It's the reason why the engine runs rubbish! The MAFs in the 3s are the same crap that was used in the 1.6l Protege/Astina.... horrible and sensitive! It's also sucking a lot of hot air too

and yeah, you really should get the UK mirrors... so much better for safe driving
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:39 PM   #37
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Okay, answers to your facts in order.

Its on a hill, its full.

No idea what your talking about. Please draw a big circle and arrow to what your talking about haha.

That it does, didnt notice that. Easy fix

I won't, why would i?

I was told this, except i cant find a stock box.

Mirrors, who needs mirrors, they shake from the bass from the sub
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:50 PM   #38
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Quote:
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O
No idea what your talking about. Please draw a big circle and arrow to what your talking about haha.
its right where ur radiator is... infront of ur ac rubber pipes that head down to the bottom of the rad..

i tried to draw a circle but u can see it as it in pen on my monitor...
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:05 PM   #39
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you can always get a stock airbox from the US or the expensive mazdaspeed CAI, which works properly.... those can be found in the 2nd hand market

or maybe autoexe intake ("flood proof", like stock)?
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:22 PM   #40
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Your A/C cap is missing because 90% of them have cracked and no one replaces them.

All cars I got from QLD if they have been Regassed I've found have had what's known as OH it cracked and it falls off when put back on. Well it's what we NSW people figure you lazy qld people thought.
Oh and IT even happens to the toyotas. I use to order a few in my 2nd hand car detailing days. Memory was holden ford same as merc etc but toyota mazda honda. the only issue is colour as some used red and blue others used black.
but it's a good idea to get hold of one. Reason being they keep the dust out big time.
PS at bottom I tell you best place

As for your CAI or air flow - I love stock - Each to there own. I wil agree to disagree.

On your spark plugs - Get use to it. Long stroke and Turbo - I got box of them and even a set in the car. Even Ford known there 250 in the falcon eats them. Standard practice if a oil change don't fix it - spark plugs- Then send it out. Oh and charge customer.

Mazda's equivlant oh and it's Not offical (aka varys from dealer to dealer) Thrash it or clean them. Yep they use to pull them wash and put them back in Mazda 6's etc. If anyone complains. Unless you TELL THEM to change them and charge me - they don't do it if it's not part of the regular jobs to do. They will even tell you it's okay for a car to miss at 1300rpm under load.



Oh and best place for Free caps - the dealer of course, 5 second discount store.
Bits missing from your car - Lighter - screw cover in door - A/c cap - even that chrome lug nut.
But I am not saying it's GOOD thing Stealing is wrong and if you think God is good then god say it's bad mmmk.

but if you think 2nd hand car dealers are shifty SOB who rip people off it's OKAY THEN
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