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18-12-2009, 03:29 PM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Car: Black Lantis BA 2.5L KLZE
Posts: 92
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Klze issues
Hi Guys
I'm in need of a little advice I dropped a klze in2 my lantis a couple months ago and i have been enjoying the car with the extra power I now have, BUT.... 1. I'm running it with the kf33 ecu and standard ( cant remember the code) air flow meter. Thus, I do not have full potentail of the car, and 2. Shes jerky as hell.you really have to go easy with the accelerator/cluch combo if u don't want to do bunny hops in car parks. just too touchy. Also- to top it off I let my brother use my car for a couple days while I got a WOF for his- and when I got her back she was is a sick state- ( my CAI intake needs to be disconnected in the rain and I mentioned this to him which he "forgot", so rain water in the intake, sigh) I've replaced the sparkplugs and this has helped my car, but shes still not right- still hunts a little bit when u take your foot of the accelerator- not as bad as before but its still there. Anyways- question is- how can I make it more stable and less jerky?? Any easy tricks?? I've been considering removing my aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and placing back the standard klze one.... Probably the only proper option is to get a piggy back system or megasquirt or another ecu, or pehaps splicing the wiring loom and using a kl31/36 ecu (thats the right one right?) tho as far as I am to believe that would only effectively change the vris points and not so much how the engine runs.... because I experience the jerkyness well before the vris opens up- tho I do feel the lag where they should be opening up when I floor it anyway- i feel I've ranted for long enough. please tell me what u think |
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18-12-2009, 03:35 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baxter, VIC
Car: Sooby B4 - Astina SP parting out
Posts: 2,447
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that's the correct ZE ECU's. There no different to each other. The 36 was for ATX, the 31 for MTX. You shouldn't have to splice the loom buddy unless the ECU female plug/s are different tpe? Just get the ECU & it will run bit better. There designed for the bigger port IM & 31 Cams
The jerking I wouldn't think is related to the stock ECU. I ran my MX6 ZE with stock ECU. Thwy will work fine if you have to.
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18-12-2009, 03:42 PM | #3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Car: Black Lantis BA 2.5L KLZE
Posts: 92
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On the 323f forums I was lead to believe a kl31/36 ecu wouldnt fit the standard wiring harness of the lantis. though I can't prove this because I haven't tried its just that alot of people have said this to me thru the forums.
Otherwise i'm gonna buy one asap and get my extra 15/20 hp !!!!! |
18-12-2009, 03:46 PM | #4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baxter, VIC
Car: Sooby B4 - Astina SP parting out
Posts: 2,447
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Quote:
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My Shepherds in the Avatar haha "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace" - Jimi Hendrix |
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18-12-2009, 03:58 PM | #5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Car: Black Lantis BA 2.5L KLZE
Posts: 92
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Haha- theres the problem then- my kf33 ecu is for the 2.0 kfze. lantis never had 2.5 v6's, ze or de. thus why i'm encountering the minor issues. and the likely incompatabilty between ecu's.
And just for the record- its not too bad to drive- its just I would like my car to accomodate my driving, not me who has to drive to accomodate for my car. Seriously from a standstill, plant your foot and who knows what could happen- could maybe shred some rubber or alternatively could bunny hop ur teeth loose |
18-12-2009, 04:18 PM | #6 |
コスモ
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Location: Vic
Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD
Posts: 7,888
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The KF33 Lantis ECU is the same for both auto and manual and unlike the Mx-6 it uses a hotwire MAF sensor not a VAF sensor. I'd start by checking ECU codes and maybe put it on a dyno, it may just need a little tuning.
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18-12-2009, 06:42 PM | #7 |
コスモ
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Location: Vic
Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD
Posts: 7,888
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I've just dug up a JDM KL47 'TA5P Millenia' hotwire MAF and while it's not a substitute it has an internal diamater of 68mm. What is the internal diamater of your MAF?
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