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Old 05-04-2005, 10:39 PM   #101
platypus
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well farken, i'm not a farken gypsie farken

the gearbox mount is the one that makes a huge difference in stiffening the mounts
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Old 06-04-2005, 09:43 AM   #102
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good to see the sp18mkII is progressing.

Ey and about next month i would love too catch up man, u will find a surprise in my car too as its no longer stock. hehehe

p.s. keep me informed and add me hotmail address
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Old 06-04-2005, 05:11 PM   #103
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Yeah and your big bro with your bloody surprises! My car won't have any immenant surprises, only things happening soon (before the auto is sold) is fitting my shortshifter and fixing the engine mounts... I should be able to finish the exhaust swap tonight or tomorrow morning depending on how things go. I'll also be buying Zoomer's old Mazda3 gearknob too.
I'd like to have my fuel computer that I built working, but it's one of those things that's low on the priority list at the moment with the car sale and work committments. I almost forgot, I do have a lightweight underdrive pulley on the way some time this month too. And my twilight enhanced Injen CAI will be available in a week or so too...
So I do have a fair bit of stuff happening in the next couple of weeks, but they are things that have been on the shelf waiting for this and that to actually happen. My next step isn't secret, I've told people I will be getting an exhaust cam before I touch the engine management. And hopefully around that time the intake manifolds will be testing in our cars too...

Take it easy champ, might see you later this month.
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Old 06-04-2005, 07:16 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicaboo
My next step isn't secret....
thats because your not andy.... damn it wheres them fingers already!! ..|..

what sort of changes did you have in mind for the exhuast cam??

BTW, do you have any idea where you or I can get the specs for the factory cams?
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Old 06-04-2005, 07:32 PM   #105
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Yeah man, ask Andrew when it comes to cam specs, and I need more lift and duration on the exhaust cam. I also might enquire as to whether larger valves would help too?
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Old 06-04-2005, 07:34 PM   #106
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theman's website has the goss

are you saying my plans are secret???
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Old 07-04-2005, 05:29 AM   #107
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no i'm saying you like having tea with lions and tigers and bears....
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Old 07-04-2005, 06:23 AM   #108
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i'm going to kenya! they got lions!
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Old 07-04-2005, 08:16 AM   #109
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Forget Norway...
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Old 07-04-2005, 07:20 PM   #110
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oh don't... kitty has been bugging me with that....

damn free map
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Old 07-04-2005, 08:51 PM   #111
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Update:

Exhausts are swapped over, the auto is fine and drives better than the day I bought it, but with 10kW less than it had a day ago... The manual will need a big drive to wake up the ECU still to get the most out of the exhaust. It has a farken leak somewhere too, so I will need to hit it with gasket sealant everywhere. I heard clunking when it was wheel hopping up the road too, exahust might be clapping against something? I need to get the bolts that hold the front manifold clamp to the engine to make sure the OBX doesn't fling around so much, idiot farkers at the exhaust shop through them away a few months back...

I had a majour problem with the shortshifter, I need a new shoulder bolt now. Anyhow, the gearbox shift bushings are in and they are farken great! There is no added vibration in the shifter, and it slots into gears like it should do out of the factory. And there is less slop too...

Next on the list will be stuffing the engine mounts with the ahb11m/50.3 enhanced Dow Corning Silastic 732 formula.

Gav.
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Old 07-04-2005, 09:27 PM   #112
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wheel hopping and clunking? engine mounts now!
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Old 07-04-2005, 09:41 PM   #113
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Yeah, engine mounts will help the clunking, but I think if I can get the stock header clamp to work that clunk will go all together, I might have to pinch one of the bolts off the gay auto's manifold clamp until I can get some matching bolts...
By the way, my exhaust is 50% heavier than a stock exhaust atleast! The headers and axle back are lighter though...
Engine mounts will get done one at a time, might be able to start on them tomorrow night and drive the auto for a day or two. I think I will start with one of the side mounts, then work my way to the front. When I was under the car I couldn't tell if I could get the centre core out of the rear mount alone, any ideas?

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Old 07-04-2005, 09:48 PM   #114
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i dont think there would be a point on the obx to mount to the engine anyway....i'm pretty sure atleast.

"my exhaust is 50% heavier than a stock exhaust atleast! The headers and axle back are lighter though..."

you mean 3 resonators arent light?
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Old 07-04-2005, 09:56 PM   #115
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Ummmm, NO! They don't look heavy from the outside though. But what's 4 feet of resonators anyway? Meh....
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:03 AM   #116
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yeah but when your under a car, everything is heavy... ratchets can get uber heavy under there i found....

which clamp are you talking about exactly? the one that straps the zorst to the oil pan/crankcase ???

if its the clamp itself, then you might be able to do what i did on the SP16 and bolted it up using hose clamps.. this was done AFTER battle with the SP18....
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Old 24-04-2005, 06:56 PM   #117
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Update:

I've got my b/b type TWM shortshifter all fixed now with the K4RT30Y bushings on the gearbox too. It's extremely tight and a little interesting to engage 1st gear... Actually I found that the stock setup was a little difficult to grab first too, but the K4RT30Y bushings made that better, but then the TWM has put me back where I started plus it's tighter again throughout... The throw is extremely short but it sits at a very good height and looks great!
Ummm, one of those many resonators is now clapping against the lowered heatshield under the shortshifter when the engine shakes enough. For those who don't know, the higher pivot point on the shifter mean u need spacers to lower the heatshield between the shifter and the exhaust... In the meantime this is not too bad and will remedy itself when I clamp the header to the engine and fix the engine mounts when I get the right tools...
I've taken the plastic strips off my doors too, this takes a little time and elbow grease but the results are worth it. If I had a camera I'd put pics up...
The sideskirts will be going on on the 4th May, now I could do these myself with uerethane and hope that I do it correctly, but then I have no recourse. But since I'd only be using uerethane I probably cant' really go wrong either. I've got a couple of weeks to think about it in any case...
Now there's not much more I can do with the car until my crank pulley arrives or I've sold the not-so-gay-these-days auto. And then I will be getting a 20% tint on the side windows and 35% tint on the two front and rear windows, with a windscreen banner tint where my AGT sticker will sit prouldy infront of.
I do have some colour chips on the way for some interior vinyl treatments. They should arrive next week, and from there I will decide what colour/finish I will get to deck my interior out with...
I've my GT black slip-on seat covers in there too, But I still need to get the interior cleaned/detailed before it's as good as the auto's was.

That's all for now,
Gav.
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Old 24-04-2005, 07:09 PM   #118
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Oh, it was pointed out to me that I forgot to mention the black style SP20 steering wheel I should recieve early this week. Ummm, still waiting...
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Old 24-04-2005, 07:22 PM   #119
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remove heat shield!!!
all that rattling annoyed me after installing the TWM.
only drawback is the gear knob does get a bit warm after a flogging!
good for winter, bad for summer!
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Old 24-04-2005, 07:45 PM   #120
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It's not really a problem unless I try to underdrive the engine too slow. So that's why I think it'll be ok until I do the engine mounts and header clamp fix...
I might even squirt some silastic into the exhaust hangers sapces to help it a bit until I get the right sockets to take the engine mounts off?
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