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Old 21-07-2011, 04:30 PM   #1
jdm_eg
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323 BA 1.8L Issues

Hi All,

Been a while since i've posted.

I have a a few issues which i though you might be able to help before I go to mechanics to be charged and arm and leg. I have a 1995 BA Astina 1.8L manual. Apologies as I have little knowledge with mazda engines.

1. Cold Start Issue
When engine is cold (or on cold days) engine starts but dies straight away. I have to keep tapping / accelerate for about 5-10secs so the car does not stall. After 10secs I am able to release accelerate peddle and engine is fine.
When engine is still warm (or on warmer days) she starts up fine and does not stall / die.

2. Idling Issue
Once engine is warmed up when I come to a set of lights, I shift into neutral and the engine idles at 2rpm? It will stay at 2rpm. (btw - Idle Control Valve is set correctly).
To get the engine to idel correcly under 1rpm I have to shift into gear and slowly release clutch so that rpm drops to bout 1rpm. After 2 seconds the engine adjusts to correct idling rpm (under 1rpm). Can now shift back to Neutral. Hope that makes sense.

3. Engine Running when travel 90-100+km/hr.
On M2 i noticed when I hit speed of about 100km/hr the engine jolts once (split second) then continues to buid speed smoothly. WHen I am slowing down it also jolts when I hit the 90-100+km/hr mark.
It seems there is a spot around the 90-100+km/hr mark where engine is not accelerating smoothly.

Your help is appreciated. Basic checks have been made are: Spark Plugs, Air leaks, AFM, Fuel Filter, Idle Control Valve, TPS...

Cheeers
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Old 21-07-2011, 05:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_eg View Post
Hi All,

Been a while since i've posted.

I have a a few issues which i though you might be able to help before I go to mechanics to be charged and arm and leg. I have a 1995 BA Astina 1.8L manual. Apologies as I have little knowledge with mazda engines.

1. Cold Start Issue
When engine is cold (or on cold days) engine starts but dies straight away. I have to keep tapping / accelerate for about 5-10secs so the car does not stall. After 10secs I am able to release accelerate peddle and engine is fine.
When engine is still warm (or on warmer days) she starts up fine and does not stall / die.

2. Idling Issue
Once engine is warmed up when I come to a set of lights, I shift into neutral and the engine idles at 2rpm? It will stay at 2rpm. (btw - Idle Control Valve is set correctly).
To get the engine to idel correcly under 1rpm I have to shift into gear and slowly release clutch so that rpm drops to bout 1rpm. After 2 seconds the engine adjusts to correct idling rpm (under 1rpm). Can now shift back to Neutral. Hope that makes sense.

3. Engine Running when travel 90-100+km/hr.
On M2 i noticed when I hit speed of about 100km/hr the engine jolts once (split second) then continues to buid speed smoothly. WHen I am slowing down it also jolts when I hit the 90-100+km/hr mark.
It seems there is a spot around the 90-100+km/hr mark where engine is not accelerating smoothly.

Your help is appreciated. Basic checks have been made are: Spark Plugs, Air leaks, AFM, Fuel Filter, Idle Control Valve, TPS...

Cheeers
Have you tried cleaning the idle control valve?

I know I had the exact same problem, but luckily mine has dissappeared since.

It is odd, the idle issue where you let the clutch out to bring down the revs, is almost identicle to when your car is idling with the AC on. Never looked into it, but maybe the AC condenser sensor is playing up or the clutch on the condenser is actually on?

Have you tried replacing the ICV? I know you may have checked all this, but at my work, it always pays to replace the item to see if it makes changes rather than checking it and making the assumtion that it's okay.
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Old 21-07-2011, 08:23 PM   #3
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2nd for IAC valve on points 1 and 2 (IAC isn't the bypass screw)
Does point 3 happen in 3rd or 4th gear or 3rd and 4th gear?
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Old 22-07-2011, 12:29 PM   #4
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THanks guys I will revisit the IAC Valce and let you guys know how i go.

With issue #3 i am in 5th gear.

Cheers
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Old 22-07-2011, 07:10 PM   #5
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Issue 3 I would be checking leads plugs rotor button dizzy cap and getting the injectors cleaned
Issue 2 check the clutch switch operation
Issue 1 sounds like iac problem and also make sure your intake tube has no splits in it between the grooves.

Last edited by maztech; 22-07-2011 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 22-07-2011, 08:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
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With issue #3 i am in 5th gear.
Cheers
So if you cross the same speed mark in 4th what happens?
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Old 22-07-2011, 09:57 PM   #7
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Load dependent --- different gears ,rpm = different load = misfire
Different items make misfire at different loads and rpms
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Old 23-07-2011, 07:49 PM   #8
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Load dependent --- different gears ,rpm = different load = misfire
Different items make misfire at different loads and rpms
There is a difference between my open questions and your closed minded smartassednesss. I may not be a mechanic but I know more about asking questions to diagnosing problems remotely than you'll ever know... and you can take that to the bank ..|..
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Old 23-07-2011, 08:11 PM   #9
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LMFAO you spend to much time on forums and think you know everything
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Old 24-07-2011, 10:08 AM   #10
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Let's just stick to answering the guys questions to the best of our abilities so that he can enjoy his car again.
I personally have no other wisdom to add.
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Old 27-07-2011, 01:24 PM   #11
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Well, I scanned my car with the work computer today, found the codes from my previous problem that had dissappeared, that sounds the same as your problem with idle.
I got the following;
P10100 mass airflow sensor malfunction
P0110 intake air temperature circuit malfunction

From that I can pretty much conclude that the mass air flow sensor needs replacing as it also holds the intake temp sensor. I cleared the codes and they haven't re-appeared.

If I was you i'd try cleaning the airflow sensor or replacing it.
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Old 18-08-2011, 12:56 PM   #12
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*update*

Hi All,

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice.
Issue # 3 has been resolved.

I am still experiencing the cold start issue but not as hard to start and now the car is steadily idling too high (1500-2000 RPM) when warm. Any ideas how this may be fixed - the idle adjustment screw is set to the lowest.

Below is a list of the things I have recently done (may or may not relate to my issue).

* Vaccum Valve (replaced)
* Vaccum Switch (replaced)
* Idle Air Control Valve (clean & replaced)
* Throttle Boday (cleaned)
* Air Filter (replaced)
* Air Flow Meter (cleaned & replaced)
* Throttle Position Sensor (replaced and adjusted)
* Fuel Pressure Regulator (replaced)
* Fuel Filter (replaced)
* Spark Plugs (cleaned & replaced)
* Spark Plug leads (replaced)
* Replace Distributor Cap (replaced)
* Clutch Switch (replaced)
* PCV Valve (replaced)
* Rocker Cover Gasket (replaced)
* Reset ECU (disconnecting battery and pushing brake pedal method)


Things I still need to look into which I have on my to do list as part of maintenance before I take to a mechanic and be ripped off =P:

* Check Valve (looks similar to PCV valve)?
* Check Throttle Cable if sticking?
* Replace oxygen sensor?
* Replace coolant temp sensor?
* Replace air intake pipe as mine has TINY hairline cracks (doesn't look like it has cracked all the way through)

Your help would be appreciated. Cheers!
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Old 21-08-2011, 12:06 PM   #13
jdm_eg
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Smile Fixed!!!

Hi All, just an update my car issues have been fixed. The culprit I found was the COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR! $46 later the car is running smooth and sweet again. Thanks all!
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