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Old 10-05-2015, 09:34 AM   #421
Mad Mat
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ssssooo its time for an update.

A lot has happened in the past month. I had a st185 shifter and cable for my toyota box conversion but i just found out that the st185 shifter wont fit. and tha cables are about 50mm to short. after doing some measurements and calling around i found that the toyota Caldina or ST215 shifter cables where 50mm and 70mm longer than the st185 cables. After some pestering and offering big $$$ i was also able to get the Caldina shifter aswell. This shifter is a plastic body type shifter compared to the st185 shifter which is steel. but the good thing about this shifter is it feel alot more stiff and sporty but with the same lenght shifter arm. so its like haveing a shoft shifter with out having a short shifter if you can follow my wording. any the other reason i had to get a caldina shifter is the top section of the shifter is alot smaller than the st185 or st205 shifters nand it can fit inside the Mazda BA console. usually with this conversion its not an issue with the Mazda bg's, Gd's, 626's or bf's as the console is alot taller.


the bellow photoshows my wiring mess and the st185 shifter and how big the top section is.



below is the photo of the ST215 shifter installed



there was a fgew things i had to do to the shofter to mount it like drill holes and put nut inserts in the tunnel so i had somewhere for the shifter to screw to. i also have made up a piece of alli to blank off the hole where the original shifter when.
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1994 323 BG Hatch 2005-2007 Crashed into truck
1991 323 BG Hatch 2007-2008/9 SOLD
2003 BJ SP20 J48 Hatch 2008-2011 Regretfully SOLD
1997 BA I4 Sedan 2012-CURRENT
1985 BF 323 Hatch 2014-2015
SOLD
1989 MX5 2015-2015

Last edited by Mad Mat; 10-05-2015 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 10-05-2015, 10:01 AM   #422
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NOW the hole issue with startin g the car.. so after weeks and weeks of me trying to start the ncar on the 36 tooth wheel i gave up and when back to the CAS or cam angle sensor setup which basically use's the dizzy for triggering. there are 4 wires. 12v, -v, signal, reset. basically its a 4:1 trigger set up. 4 rotations to 1 reset. after wiring this up i still couldnt get it to work. i was very lucky to have a friend you runs "Martini racing" (who has supplied me with all the oils for the build) have a look at my tune via remote conection. there was a few little issues i had. the major one was that my power cable from my battery relocat was to small and the starter wasnt getting the current it needed to start the car. i also needed some more neutrals from engine to chase and battery to chase. WOW after doing this it really made a difference hey.. the thing wanted to fire but something was still wrong..

i checked my spark plugs and found that they where fine. which means i wasnt getting ether spark or fuel. I had my mate from Martini racing remote connect to my pc while i check the spark and the coil packes where working perfectly. he asked me a few question about how i wired it all up, and this is how the conversation went;

jesse - mate how did you wire the injectors up
me - as they should be. out put 1 goes to injector 1, out put 2 goes to injector 2, out put 3 goes to injector 3, out put 4 goes to injector 4.
jesse - (silence followed my laughter)
me - WHAT.. thats right isnt it..

anyway long story short i was meant to wire the injectors up in the firing order. so;
output 1 - injector 1,
output 2 - injector 3,
output 3 - injector 4,
output 4 - injector 2,

once i swapped them over i still could get the motor to run.. it would cough and splatter but not fire up.. it sounded familiar, i had heard a motor sound like this before but i couldn't remember when and what the cause was. and then it hit me like a tonne of bricks..


THE CAM TIMING WAS 180 DEGREES OUT AGAIN

if anyone remembers i did it to this car and the old motor when i first got it like 4 years ago. how i had cocked it up is when i timed up my room mates car (ice88's) fs motor. i timed it up the same as a BP motor. that was wrong as they are 180 degrees different from a BP. so when i came ti timing up my motor i THOUGHT i did it the same as a BP but i did it the same as a FS

ANYWAY now i know it runs and everything is ok

so its time to pull the loom out tighy it up and wire in the speedo sensor and the alternator as i sort of need that to work sadly, and put the front end together and get her ready for a quick drive to check to make sure it all works fine before shipping to the tuners in 1 month.





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Old 11-05-2015, 07:44 AM   #423
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Any reason you didn't use a GTX/GTR shifter if going the cable actuator road?
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Old 11-05-2015, 02:04 PM   #424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project.r.racing View Post
Any reason you didn't use a GTX/GTR shifter if going the cable actuator road?
They would bolt in and would require modifications too. Plus as far as I'm aware they don't work with the Toyota shifter cables. Although I could be wrong. Plus the feel of a ST215 shifter is a lot better than a gtx style..
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Old 14-05-2015, 09:04 AM   #425
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Update;

I have the following parts coming;

- Another set of MS01's 17x8 ET30 to 35 (not sure on that atm) does that mean i have more than you dan
- 14POINT7 wideband sensor kit
- new custom driver side engine mount(replacing my poorly made one,which worked fine)
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1985 BF 323 Hatch 2014-2015
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Old 15-05-2015, 07:44 AM   #426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Mat View Post
- Another set of MS01's 17x8 ET30 to 35 (not sure on that atm) does that mean i have more than you dan
LOL.... no

If they have the same dish as yours, then +35. If more, then +30.
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Old 15-05-2015, 07:48 AM   #427
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I'll bet they are 35's.
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Old 24-05-2015, 02:57 AM   #428
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Nice to see your keeping this up to date.
On the shifters
I have memory that if you use the mazda one you need custom cables.
could be wrong. But I know the Toyota unit is a nice piece of work. "
It does lack some rawness to it. Which is possibly why Toyotas even when made sporty do feel a bit bland. True fact, Rx-7 FD V JZA Supra. same wrap around design etc. close ones eyes and the mazda feels better but the minor bits of rawness. the Toyota rides better and has a more complete feel but can be a bit lifeless.

this 14point7 wideband kit ? want to explain that one too me. Matt. thought you were going to run something else but can't remember what it was ?
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Old 25-05-2015, 07:31 AM   #429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodhog View Post
Nice to see your keeping this up to date.
On the shifters
I have memory that if you use the mazda one you need custom cables.
could be wrong. But I know the Toyota unit is a nice piece of work. "
It does lack some rawness to it. Which is possibly why Toyotas even when made sporty do feel a bit bland. True fact, Rx-7 FD V JZA Supra. same wrap around design etc. close ones eyes and the mazda feels better but the minor bits of rawness. the Toyota rides better and has a more complete feel but can be a bit lifeless.

this 14point7 wideband kit ? want to explain that one too me. Matt. thought you were going to run something else but can't remember what it was ?
thanks rod,

yer the 14point7 Wide band is a nice sensor. it used a bosch Senor like a innovate LC1 but its half the cost and you dont have to run a gauge with it. they make heaps of products too not just widebands.
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1994 323 BG Hatch 2005-2007 Crashed into truck
1991 323 BG Hatch 2007-2008/9 SOLD
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1985 BF 323 Hatch 2014-2015
SOLD
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:05 AM   #430
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Ok so not much has happened since the last update as I have been flat out with work and selling my mx5 to find this bad boy. I had an o2 sensor bung welded in a better location so i can actually put the sensor in. My fab guy put the first one in a very tight spot below the steering rack. It is now sitting just in front of the cat. i also had him weld in a pipe for the idle air too.


I also had my mate who made the original kit for the Toyota box conversion make me a new driver’s side mount bracket. I had originally made one but to be honest it was hmmmm sh1t Hahaha









I have made a valve cover that give my tuner access to the cam gears. This way he can adjust them without having to remove the valve cover.





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1994 323 BG Hatch 2005-2007 Crashed into truck
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:07 AM   #431
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I connected my oil pressure gauge and sender. looking at seeing if my adaptronic 440d will share the sender signal with my gauge and be able to data log the info from it. if anyone has any ideas on this please let me know




last but not least. some old photos of the car before she came off the road 2.5 years ago.




and the new rims on the car too



picked up a spare E series toyota box out of a 4agze corolla and with shafts. these are just spares and the ear set should be a lower set compaired to my long ratio box. so thats always good to have. plus the drive shafts are as rare as rocking horse sh1t.


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1994 323 BG Hatch 2005-2007 Crashed into truck
1991 323 BG Hatch 2007-2008/9 SOLD
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1985 BF 323 Hatch 2014-2015
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:37 AM   #432
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I always thought it wouldn't be hard to drive down on to that bike track under the bridge. You have confirmed this, lol.
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:43 AM   #433
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ow its doable. I think i was like he first to do it. then marc thru up photos of it on his page and it has catched on.. had to use a rock or to to fill in a hole here and there but its do able i'll be going back to take some more photos when its done
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:43 PM   #434
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You should put your red wheels back on so we can do a tandem shoot. BG with red wheels and BPT, BA with red wheels and BPT. Find a white BJ with red wheels and get it in there too haha.
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:29 PM   #435
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that's the plan man.. its gonna run the red rims for a while until i can repaint the centers of the gold rims. thinking ether gold again or black.

i also need to raise the front end and lower the rear as its not right atm ether. will see if i can get that done before the tune.
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:49 AM   #436
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did some more last night.. started to clean up the wiring loom in the engine bay.








plated off the hole where the mazda shifter went thru the floor pan and sealed it up with silicone to stop water, noise and gas's (exhaust or rubber ) coming thru.

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1994 323 BG Hatch 2005-2007 Crashed into truck
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2003 BJ SP20 J48 Hatch 2008-2011 Regretfully SOLD
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1985 BF 323 Hatch 2014-2015
SOLD
1989 MX5 2015-2015

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Old 05-06-2015, 08:40 AM   #437
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UPDATE,

Started putting the interior back together last night. Found that I’m going to have to mod the shifter boot quite a lot to get it to fit nicely. But for now I’m just going to run without a boot.
Wired up the Boost gauge and ran the wiring for the boost gauge and oil pressure gauges. All that needs to be done is install a T piece for the boost gauge source and plug the wiring into the oil pressure sender and there done.
Mounted my HID ballasts as well with the help of Hammo, it had been ages since they were mounted and I couldn’t remember which ballast did which light (I have HID lOW beam and HI bean)
Im slowly getting there with this car it just talking so long and I’m just getting sick of it sitting there on stands. I want to drive it NOW. The list of things I need to do is getting shorter;

- Mac valve plumb up
- Fit the front bar
- Fit the driverside wheel well plastic (even if its in 3 pieces)
- Wire up the speedo sensor
- Wire up the mac valve
- Install the head lights
- Run the motor and clean out the FMIC piping
- Connect the last piece of piping.
- Put 2ltrs of gearbox oil in the box
- Tidy up the last of the wiring in the engine bay.
- Run the catch can lines (from can to valve cover, can to intake on the turbo)
- Check the alternator is charging the battery (I hope I wired it up right)

And when that’s all done I can take it for a drive around the block to see how everything is..
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1994 323 BG Hatch 2005-2007 Crashed into truck
1991 323 BG Hatch 2007-2008/9 SOLD
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1985 BF 323 Hatch 2014-2015
SOLD
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:56 PM   #438
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What's a mac valve?
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Old 05-06-2015, 03:18 PM   #439
Mad Mat
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Boost control valve.. Or mechanical air controller
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Old 22-06-2015, 12:25 PM   #440
Mad Mat
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So update time.

The car is at the tuners now after some long nights working on her. Originally she was running great and then the starter died last week. Two days before I had to toe it to the tuner that is 350kms away.

Anyway so got it there eventually. With an old starter. The originally one was fine but the solenoid had died. I had replaced it with a new 626 2.2 starter as they are stronger and geared better but when I was cutting the hole in the bell housing for the starter location I made the clearances to small and the new starter wouldn't fit. That’s the reasons for fixing the old starter.

Got the car all back together Friday night and she started up nearly first go. Need some trimming of the fuel map. Get her all warmed up and took her for a short drive around the block to check if the box and clutch where working. Everything worked great she had heaps of power down low. I was just driving on Vac and not making any boost. When I got back home I noticed a puddle on the driveway where I was warming her up... yep u guessed it. ****1NG oil. Somewhere around the oil pump its leaking bad. Rang the tuner and spoke to him about it. He was very sympathetic about my position and said he normally doesn’t do this but he would fix the issue for me. **** what a relief hey. So I packed up the car and all the tools I need to get her there and back and took her to the tuners. The tuner is setting up the 36 tooth wheel for me, Speedo sensor via Dakota digital box, and tuning the car. I hope to get her back in a few weeks all tuned and ready for driving. 






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1991 323 BG Hatch 2007-2008/9 SOLD
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1985 BF 323 Hatch 2014-2015
SOLD
1989 MX5 2015-2015
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