dyno gona bad
 

well heres the damage ...no im not crying...
im just balling my eyes out...go cry emo dude!

anways...the pictures explain all

http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/6...14smallre2.jpg
161fkwk 550nm torque (4th gear) 9psi 12.5-8 A/R

http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/6...15smallxg2.jpg

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/7...16smallfl9.jpg

**one thrust bearing**

http://img489.imageshack.us/img489/6...19smallwv9.jpg
** broken on the left. what its ment to look like on the right **

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/3...21smallyu2.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4...22smallzc0.jpg

**note the thrust/side bearing melted into the block**

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/7...20smalljy9.jpg


Cause *** Thrust bearing failure*** from,,,no oil pressure,,, bad trust bearing, etc etc..

either way..Dam EXPENSIVE mistake


i didnt even get to drive the car with 161kw :(

thats a whole lot of scoring, well youve just shown us first hand what an engine will do with no oil pressure goin through the crank and conrod bearings...sori bout that...do u know how it happened ie: bad rebiuld..

thats crazy man,send chill down my spine seeing it. so wats the plans for recovery?

recovery plain is to rebuild my n/a motor and use it untill i can afford all the for someone else to build it. so i'll be n/a styles for a few months


ive got spare blocks/cranks, heads, so i'll be giving them to someone else to sort out, that way i have someting to fall back on

[QUOTE=zappy65;126889 do u know how it happened ie: bad rebiuld..[/QUOTE]

i didnt replace the thrust bearings, as they appeared to have been in good working order, the oil pump was inspected by someone else and it came back ok
**stupid , stupid mistake** :mad:


but i did have a huge pile of oil on the ground when i started the car afew weeks back for the turbo upgrade (banjo bolt cracked/snapped)

so running the car on 0psi oil pressure for 10secs would have done some damage
the dyno run would have loaded the engine up alot , that prolly let the bearing go!

BUGGER!

i must invest in one of those oil pressure gauges!
the ones that beep and flash when there is a loss of oil pressure

Dayam bro, that's bad. :(

not the end of the world

that would have been if the rod has punched into the block!!!
then i'd be pisssed !

rebuild number 2 starting in a few weeks :(

as my dad would say

"lessens learned, and they SUCK"

Yip, always good to have an oil pressure guage. I should move mine up to the a-pillar with boost though. I see you have GTR Rods? Stock pistons?

hmmm ive seen people put them back in wrong and when the bearings cant get pressure they grind till they make nice whole over your engine....good luck with the rebuild

Pistons are ACL Forgies .5 thou's 8.5CR


in a few weeks i'll be sending another block and crank off to get inspected.
i dont want this to happen when i hit 22psi of boost

if your talking that sort of psi your going to be a sad puppy again when you start breaking gear boxes and diffs and axles not to mention thats rediculous anyway as front wheel drives have poor traction standard

no to flame ! but i disagree

EBC are what thats for 1-2nd gear 9psi, 3rd 14psi 4th 5th 22psi
simple way of getting traction,

ive got LSD diff, got spare 2nd gen lantis box, awating 3rd straight cut gear, will do doing bearing plate mod also, im just saving for a 2100lb plate first

im converting to 6 ball type C.V's at each end , axles them selves will be fine, i can get teh axles heat treated anways... its the tripod c.v's that suck.

22psi will be fun, but its not something that everyone should do... im chashing a 12's and this turbo will be able to handle it no problem

Nah, 22psi is fine. Thats what I run down the strip. Over 300Hp at the front wheels is fine.

LSD wont blow.

Keep it up. Also those A/Rs could be richer to be safe.

I ran 12.8 @114mph on low boost by mistake and 2.3 60ft so you should easily get down there pretty quick with 22psi. I got 120mph on 20psi.

Now I'm Scared to drive....

its scary to drive atm...even on a stock GTX motor

im going for a retune in a few weeks, as the cold start SUCKS

i recently got my cold start tune done starts heaps better now, ill get a full tune soon

the hot starts fine, as they where able to tune that during the dyno runs

but when they took it for the road test, and the bigend spun, ment that they couldnt finish the cold start :(

Why do you all have probs. Mine has also been perfect on cold or hot.

hmmm coz you dont run a Link :P

link needs to be tuned for cold starts
either that or my ignitor is dodge, and takes a few secs to "charge" up

after the first start and leave it runing for 3 secs
you can cold start the car with 3 turn overs...so its prolly the ECU not to sure what to do?? ?