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Old 20-10-2011, 06:50 AM   #141
TheMAN
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Originally Posted by Rabz_Rox View Post
Seriously Phil, I'm F'd if I know what is in this car anymore!! They didn't bill me for one so I am guessing not. From what I can tell it is the FP throttle body, intake, MAF and O2 Temp sensor.

Again, not sure if there is any difference between the FP and FS versions anyway. Thinking I may take the car to Mazda itself. They should have enough parts to sort it out. Although in not sure about the cost. Then again, I've blown way over what I wanted to spend already. And as much as the car is close to being right, it's still NOT right. Just can't afford anymore work for no reward.
the FP and FS throttle bodies are the same size, however in your country, the automatic FS and FP uses the same throttle bodies as the JDM and USDM ones without regard to transmission type in both of those countries.... the FS manual throttle body is a progressive type and allows for smoother/slower throttle transitions for high power applications... it is really better for you to have the FS manual throttle body
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Old 20-10-2011, 10:41 PM   #142
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I tried using a cheap microphone attached to the engine block while tuning the emanage ultimate. Live was too difficult, but recording on the laptop worked well. I could hear the noise change with ignition timing even before the actual rattling started. Could hear all sorts of other stuff too, like gearbox workings etc. Just thought I'd throw that out there in case someone wants to try it.
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Old 21-10-2011, 09:02 AM   #143
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I have a n/a sp20 with fs-de that runs duel fuel lpg.

i know the knock sensor definitely works, as the timing retards when lpg vs. petrol and apart from switching off the injectors when lpg is running, there is no other wiring or ecu mods done.
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Old 21-10-2011, 10:18 AM   #144
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I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm just saying the sensitivity of it and how much the ECU compensates/reaction time is very limited

once you do actual engine mods, its rubbish


did I mention that the J&S does individual cylinder knock detection and timing adjustment? none of the other systems I'm aware of can do this, that include stock systems... they retard all or nothing
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Old 26-10-2011, 08:39 PM   #145
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Would a poorly adjusted belt on the alternator cause surges during coasting? My belt has started squealing like a biatch!!! Was wondering if this belt is too loose and is slipping big time. Stuck my head in the engine bay while it was screaming but the both belts are spinning. Not sure if it's slipping a lot or there is something else?

My thought was that if it is slipping over the alternator then the ECU may be bumping up the revs cos the alternator is not putting out enough voltage.

Anyone??
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Old 26-10-2011, 08:41 PM   #146
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With my head in the engine bay while it's squealing I can smell a burning rubber smell. This goes when the squealing stops. Which I assume is once the belt warms up and becomes tacky.
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Old 26-10-2011, 09:26 PM   #147
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Tighten the belt, but not too much. You can figure out how by looking at how it works, just a lock nut and a tensioning bolt. I overtightened once and the water pump started leaking from the shaft seal. If it is tight and still squeels, replace the belt. Haynes manual for Mazda 626 includes maintenance procedures for the FS engine (same as in SP20, similar to FP 1.8). About $30 from Supercheap.
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Enkei RPF1 15x7, Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 205/50 R15, RDA slotted rotors, HPX pads.

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Old 31-10-2011, 08:21 PM   #148
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I think my problems are all nearly solved. I have fixed the loose belt and have gain some extra power (?? dont ask me). I have good idle although still a little high and the car surges when she coasts and the rpms hit 1500. (So if I am heading down a hill and take my foot off the gas, as soon as the rpms lower to 1500... BANG, they bounce up to 1900, then down to 1500, then up to 1800 so forth until they finally peter out at about 1450.

Tipped the MAF plugs off the sensor today. Took 2 starts to get the car running, but then it seemed perfect. Idle perfect. And under test drive no surge. Will get it replaced and hopefully all my problems are solved. Keep you all posted.
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Old 31-10-2011, 09:15 PM   #149
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again, I suspect an out of adjustment throttle sensor... you should have a look
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Old 31-10-2011, 09:36 PM   #150
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Do you really still think this is the case, The Man. Even after the car ran perfect without the MAF sensor connected (it was gutless as all get out but it didn't have any of the previous symptoms)
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Old 01-11-2011, 04:00 AM   #151
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Think about your post for a bit. What the IAC does and how it works.
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:19 AM   #152
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It increases idle RPM by opening an air valve. Not sure what you're driving at?
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:39 PM   #153
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the IAC is not the TPS
the computer controls the IAC, which is an output... the TPS can be adjusted and YOU control it as it is an input
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:45 PM   #154
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The MAF is also an input. Once this input is removed the car runs right (except gutless). This to me would indicate that the car is not processing the MAF input correctly. If the TPS was misaligned wouldn't the car still have the same issues when the MAF was disconnected?

Also the car idles fine (albeit high). With the MAF disconnected the idle is perfect. IAC problems would either be high RPM permanently, valve stuck open, or near stall when the car was cold, valve closed. At the end of the day it is only a valve.
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:48 PM   #155
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Wouldn't TPS show permanent symptoms? As the car would never think the throttle was 0%. So the car would be at say 1 or 2% throttle with the foot off the gas?
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Old 01-11-2011, 08:27 PM   #156
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Never argue with THE MAN!!!!

Clean out the MAF. No diff. Adjust the TPS. First go I killed it. Surges across the band. Barely got the car moving!! Little adjustment. Same problem presented. Little adjustment. And now perfect!!!!

Car hammers across the band. No surging at all. Perfect idle. Even with A/C on.

My car is now DONE. CLOSE THIS POST!!!!!!
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Old 01-11-2011, 08:31 PM   #157
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Thanks to everyone who has contributed to assisting the repair of my car. Your advice as been invaluable. My three problems turned out to be 1. Cheap EBay Mod/Trick. 2. Buggered IAC. 3. TPS adjustment.

Points go out to PHIL. For his mind boggling troubleshooting.

And Finally THE MAN.
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Old 01-11-2011, 08:45 PM   #158
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Sleepy Gonzalez. I am sorry I forgot to thank you for the info regarding the Alternator Belt. Greatly appreciated. Cheers.
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:22 PM   #159
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another win for AGT - always great to hear of a sucess story!
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:24 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabz_Rox View Post
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to assisting the repair of my car. Your advice as been invaluable. My three problems turned out to be 1. Cheap EBay Mod/Trick. 2. Buggered IAC. 3. TPS adjustment.

Points go out to PHIL. For his mind boggling troubleshooting.

And Finally THE MAN.
Thanks and im glad to hear that your happy with the end result, its amazing the difference 200 cc can make, my car has become completely different after my engine swap, so much so I wont sell it now.
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