92 astina not charging???

omrgti · 10-05-2014, 09:03 PM

As it said I have a 92 astina, nothing flash single Cam auto. No mods done just after market speakers. Its not charging the battery (new battery) and I have put 3 different alternators in it. I had my original one tested and they said it was fine, I put it back in and it was good for about a day then went back to rubbish. I've checked and cleaned the earths, put my own power cable from the alt. to the battery, changed the ignition switch (the plastic around one of the connectors had started to melt and it had high resistance). Is there something obvious/ common that I'm missing?

rodhog · 10-05-2014, 09:06 PM

What about your Earths ? both battery to body and body to engine / alt side ?

omrgti · 10-05-2014, 09:36 PM

I've checked and cleaned the earth from the battery to the body- to the gearbox, from engine to body( on drivers side) they are the only ones I can find. Is there any on the underside of the car?. Checked the continuity of the wire from the alternator to the ignition switch.

rodhog · 11-05-2014, 12:20 AM

well you need to see what you are actually getting at the battery.

Cleaning the wires does bugger all if there is a internal break causing only 20 - 30 amps and not the full Current charge to go through. Might run the car and engine but bugger all to charge the battery back up.
OLD car hard copper cable they go eventually. Even if they have continuity.

If your Alternator is screaming on start up and pushing out 14.3 and you get your 14.1 or 13.8 at the battery okay but less then question it.

Watch out for the questionable alternator of that period - shows Voltage but bugger al Current output.
problem was solved by 92 but, not uncommon on HI Km un-rebuilt units.

Most Mazda usually have 2nd earth strap top of engine to body. main cable is one piece and goes battery clamp body and gearbox/engine. Not uncommon to see addition cables added. usually direct to block As alloy Box case don't need earth as all switches on box of that era are wired earth.

TheMAN · 11-05-2014, 03:34 AM

test the battery and replace if necessary
a bad battery will kill an alternator faster than anything

omrgti · 01-06-2014, 12:20 PM

Ok since this post I have taken the harness out from the alternator back and stripped the tape and condute off. Found nothing. Thought maybe it had something to do with the ecu so swapped that out. It fixed it until it got to running temp. So I let it cool down and tested it again. Tested at 13.99v until it got hot again. Today I tested it again from cold start and it was 13.82v. It was fine for about half an hour then the thermo fan was playing up, the temp gauge was just over 3/4. I checked the plug for the fan and it worked when I twisted/ shook it ( dodgy plug) someone told me that their one had the same charging problem and it turned out to be the intake temp sensor. But then I asked if it was the same car as mine they said it was a 2001 not a 92. Could mine be having the same problem? Where would this sensor be?

10-05-2014, 09:03 PM	#1
omrgti Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: brisbane Car: 92 astina, vl turbo Posts: 6	92 astina not charging??? As it said I have a 92 astina, nothing flash single Cam auto. No mods done just after market speakers. Its not charging the battery (new battery) and I have put 3 different alternators in it. I had my original one tested and they said it was fine, I put it back in and it was good for about a day then went back to rubbish. I've checked and cleaned the earths, put my own power cable from the alt. to the battery, changed the ignition switch (the plastic around one of the connectors had started to melt and it had high resistance). Is there something obvious/ common that I'm missing?

11-05-2014, 03:34 AM	#5
TheMAN Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: USA Car: . Posts: 2,623	test the battery and replace if necessary a bad battery will kill an alternator faster than anything __________________ Protege FAQ, the best 323/Protege/Mazda3 resource enjoyed worldwide for 10 years

10-05-2014, 09:06 PM	#2
rodhog Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sydney Lakemba Car: mx-6 626 Gs300 Maz2 was 95 KF BA-HT Posts: 2,024 View Photos By: rodhog	What about your Earths ? both battery to body and body to engine / alt side ?

10-05-2014, 09:36 PM	#3
omrgti Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: brisbane Car: 92 astina, vl turbo Posts: 6	I've checked and cleaned the earth from the battery to the body- to the gearbox, from engine to body( on drivers side) they are the only ones I can find. Is there any on the underside of the car?. Checked the continuity of the wire from the alternator to the ignition switch.

11-05-2014, 12:20 AM	#4
rodhog Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sydney Lakemba Car: mx-6 626 Gs300 Maz2 was 95 KF BA-HT Posts: 2,024 View Photos By: rodhog	well you need to see what you are actually getting at the battery. Cleaning the wires does bugger all if there is a internal break causing only 20 - 30 amps and not the full Current charge to go through. Might run the car and engine but bugger all to charge the battery back up. OLD car hard copper cable they go eventually. Even if they have continuity. If your Alternator is screaming on start up and pushing out 14.3 and you get your 14.1 or 13.8 at the battery okay but less then question it. Watch out for the questionable alternator of that period - shows Voltage but bugger al Current output. problem was solved by 92 but, not uncommon on HI Km un-rebuilt units. Most Mazda usually have 2nd earth strap top of engine to body. main cable is one piece and goes battery clamp body and gearbox/engine. Not uncommon to see addition cables added. usually direct to block As alloy Box case don't need earth as all switches on box of that era are wired earth.

01-06-2014, 12:20 PM	#6
omrgti Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: brisbane Car: 92 astina, vl turbo Posts: 6	Ok since this post I have taken the harness out from the alternator back and stripped the tape and condute off. Found nothing. Thought maybe it had something to do with the ecu so swapped that out. It fixed it until it got to running temp. So I let it cool down and tested it again. Tested at 13.99v until it got hot again. Today I tested it again from cold start and it was 13.82v. It was fine for about half an hour then the thermo fan was playing up, the temp gauge was just over 3/4. I checked the plug for the fan and it worked when I twisted/ shook it ( dodgy plug) someone told me that their one had the same charging problem and it turned out to be the intake temp sensor. But then I asked if it was the same car as mine they said it was a 2001 not a 92. Could mine be having the same problem? Where would this sensor be?