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12-09-2012, 06:42 PM | #321 |
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Or i'll just park it out the front and only move it in for working on it haha. Road is going to kill me though its so rough as is.
Yeah was going to see if darryl was going to do the AAC ones. Wrote that review yet? |
18-09-2012, 10:32 PM | #322 |
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Looks so good! Love it! And yeah mine revs the same as that in 5th I thought it was a bit weird too.
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19-09-2012, 01:19 AM | #323 | |
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Quote:
Haven't installed the front endlinks yet either. As said.. Wen I am back all will be done
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19-09-2012, 02:43 PM | #324 | |
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Yeah springs will be awhile anyways, so im looking at getting them done the same time. |
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23-09-2012, 12:04 AM | #325 |
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What brand of that sway bar Ben? Looking to get one :P
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23-09-2012, 12:12 AM | #326 |
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Whole sale suspension rear away bar
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23-09-2012, 03:20 AM | #327 |
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maybe its shaped after the mazdaspeed sway bar instead of the sp20?
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23-09-2012, 06:29 AM | #328 | |
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Quote:
does the mazdaspeed have different endlinks ed?
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23-09-2012, 04:07 PM | #329 |
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then it's not suited to fit the regular crossmember, because the bends of the sway bar near the bush mounting points are very different from the regular sway bar
the mazdaspeed rear sway bar uses the BJ1 end links... longer
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23-09-2012, 04:28 PM | #330 |
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here's a pic showing the difference... notice the MSP sway bar is bent more in the middle sections
more pics of the MSP sway bar another pic of the stock sway bar the wholesale suspension sway bar is bent too much in otherwords... THAT'S WHY it hits your crossmember.... but let's not worry about why... let's worry about how that big sway bar is going to rip the stud off your crossmember... there's a reason why mazda reinforced the mounting points on the mazdaspeed versions and used 2 bolts for the rear sway bar instead of 1 stud/1 bolt combo.... that's also why the AWR uses a relocation bracket, in order to strengthen the mounting points and not add stress to the crossmember see this thread: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...y-bar-on-P5-ES what he did isn't ideal, but it works reliably at least!
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23-09-2012, 09:24 PM | #331 |
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As kris and Phil heard today, its not crazy bad. Just over big bumps, worse with people in the back. But when its me in the car it barely makes a noise. Speed bumps upset it.
It'll be fine once i get longer endlinks. Suggestions on what? Aaron got the AAC ones, but i dont always have to follow the heard |
24-09-2012, 04:40 AM | #332 |
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the stock BJ1 endlinks work fine if that sway bar is an exact duplicate of the MSP sway bar.... sounds like it is
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24-09-2012, 04:56 AM | #333 |
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So are the BJI endlinks longer than the bjII sp20 ones?
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24-09-2012, 05:53 AM | #334 |
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my links are 160mm and i have found that you can get 190mm so i'd guess that they are bj1
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24-09-2012, 06:58 AM | #335 |
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The swaybar is bent exactly the same as a normal sp20 bar, as the original sample is a sp20 / p5 mp3 bar. I know as I designed it.
The mock up was done with a lowered ride of 30mm If the swaybar is slapping in the middle of the crossmember, you need to alter the link height. I think the use of the suggested AWR bracket is an awesome idea, as it was something that I was going to have made, but due to the low volume of sales, the small quantity would work out expensive per piece. My only flaw is the different curves in the subframe between models, a lot of members that have purchased the swaybar have had fitment issues with the lateral locks rubbing against the subframe. |
24-09-2012, 08:53 AM | #336 | |
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Quote:
I am also lowered 30mm and was slapping the swaybar against the subframe. So AAC adjustable endlinks (longer rear ones) were the go there. I am inbetween ATM for upgrading/strengthening the mounts. Like the AWR ones. Just a question about those... So the AWR bracket is bolted to the subframe via the stock stud and a bolt. Then then origional swaybar bracket bolts onto the AWR bracket via 2 bolts???? EDIT: sorry Ben for this clutter... But it might help you later Atleast that's my justification anyway
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24-09-2012, 09:27 AM | #337 |
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No carry on. This is useful. Planning on getting the longer endlinks within the next month. But can you just upgrade the mounts and it would be fine with the stock endlinks? Dont know what would be cheaper. Maybe i'll change both
*also awaits Azza's question about the AWR bracket to be answered for clearer understanding* |
24-09-2012, 09:35 AM | #338 |
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Also, i can take a picture of where its hitting for future reference if you want familiagtx?? I've just persuaded the subframe a little with a few bashes with mr bangy.
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24-09-2012, 09:41 AM | #339 |
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Well those brackets might help a little. For you on stick height might be just enough... But I was hitting hard so just the brackets wouldn't be enough.
Also reguarding yor question about endlinks... Tbh you can get any you find... So long as its the same stud diameter and the correct length you need. Or AAC adjustables, pedders do adjustables. Again... Anything will do so long as the stud fits through the hole in the sway bar and the strut mount and Aslong as it has the capability of being adjusted to the length you need. If your a little handy and cbfed you can make your own too . The upgraded (thicker) endlinks definitely increased rear end feel, and made it sharper... So for the price of the AAC ones I would get those. If you are worried about that rattle lol, it was just one bearing with play... When I get back noah is happy to send me another bearing free of charge. So ya.
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24-09-2012, 09:46 AM | #340 |
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Remember its going down south 30mm in a few months. So i'm living with the bump and getting it all done when i'll drop it. (Since it will go crazy when i lower it, much like yours) Starting to stockpile the parts now though haha.
I'll check out pedders since i've got half there stuff installed under there. (Shocks, bushes etc) I'll check out AAC ones too. *still awaits answers about the AWR bracket though * |
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