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Old 06-06-2013, 09:42 AM   #121
familiagtx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRIAN MP5T View Post
Stock, the head is original.
Oh ok, I think I need to compare my power output with other boosted fs-de.

With your standard cams, you don't experience the power tapering off after 5500rpm? (If you had normal gear ratios)
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:01 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by familiagtx View Post
Oh ok, I think I need to compare my power output with other boosted fs-de.

With your standard cams, you don't experience the power tapering off after 5500rpm? (If you had normal gear ratios)
Remember he is running a full standalong ecu. He has more controll over timing and fuel than u do pete.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:07 AM   #123
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Yah if only by a smidgen
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:07 PM   #124
BRIAN MP5T
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Mat is correct, the tapering at 5500 that is normal can be tuned out with ignition and the boost controller is connected to the Haltech and can be mapped by gear, rpm and load.


I'm not saying I can't use some headwork, but that is not now, that is next
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:12 PM   #125
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Can you put up a few photos of your new clutch reservoir solution?

Copying and pasting your old clutch master to slave stainless line into my engine bay.
I've also figured a way of replacing the line from orig. brake/clutch reservoir to clutch master with stainless too.

Teflon PTFE of course..
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:06 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Mat View Post
Remember he is running a full standalong ecu. He has more controll over timing and fuel than u do pete.
I'm running standalone with my EMS stinger.
There is too many things that the standard ecu control, such as abs, air con, climate control, alternator charging etc.

so my EMS runs the engine standalone and factory ecu is still fully wired up with the ignition and fuel snipped off. It thinks its running the engine, but the ecu doesn't know that is ignition and injector signals are not reaching their destination.

The only engine components the stock ecu controls are the egr valve and idle solenoid, as the stock ecu controls the idle valve better than the EMS and much quieter.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:09 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRIAN MP5T View Post
Mat is correct, the tapering at 5500 that is normal can be tuned out with ignition and the boost controller is connected to the Haltech and can be mapped by gear, rpm and load.


I'm not saying I can't use some headwork, but that is not now, that is next
I'd love to see some of your 3d ignition & fuel maps to compare notes.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:51 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by familiagtx View Post

The only engine components the stock ecu controls are the egr valve and idle solenoid, as the stock ecu controls the idle valve better than the EMS and much quieter.
I agree that your system is basically a standalone.

I have a 200 step idle motor that is controlled by the Haltech, I would argue with you that my car will idle better than what you would expect if the ECU was controlling the stock 3 position valve.

I have no EGR, I have no Evap Recovery Canister or system, I have no ABS, I have no central locking, I have no enviromental controls, I have no Stock Speed cluster, I have no Stereo, I have no front or rear wipers, so.... I have no need for the stock ECU.

The alternator is a 1 wire which self excites and self regulates.

The fuel map isn't going to be very helpful, I am running sequential fuel. It is based on time of injection per "event" (valve opening) and thus has a flat path on the RPM axis.

The ignition was tuned with a set of "Knock Ears" (go google them)
I have a set coming this summer as I borrowed the ones I used in the past. The car is tuned to run on 94 and the summers are quite mild in Ontario.

The last map is the 3D map which controlls the variable electric water pump. There is no thermostat in the car, there is no second loop for the heater core (because there is none) all coolant must pass through the pump, block, head, radiator. Normally this would mean the car would never get up to operating temperature. The water pump speeds up or slows down to maintain a target temp. As I build boost the pump aggressively goes to max duty to keep the engine cooler because of the huge thermal load. Basically, my engine is colder at the end of a long full boost load than it was at the start. I need this because the car is under heavy load for long durations to get to 300 Km/h.

FUEL


IGNITION


COOLANT SYSTEM


EDIT: Here is the Idle Valve off of the car. It is mounted on the firewall and has an AN4 Inlet and AN4 Outlet. The air is taken from the Hot Pipe leading into the TB and dumped into the 505 Intake Manifold directly in the center. You can see both in the engine shot.



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Old 06-06-2013, 10:20 PM   #129
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Omg this is nuts! great work man
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:16 PM   #130
BRIAN MP5T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghetto3 View Post
Can you put up a few photos of your new clutch reservoir solution?
Pretty lame actually..

The pressure line is an AN3 conversion but the feed line is the OEM rubber hose..

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Old 07-06-2013, 02:41 AM   #131
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An M10x1.0 thread fits neat and secure into that rubber bung in the clutch master if you remove the plastic barb. I drilled and tapped my clutch master reservoir M10x1.0 and fitted aeroflow adapters onto an-4 line to replace that orig. line on my setup.


Just in case...you know, if you want to add more stainless!

Last edited by ghetto3; 08-06-2013 at 04:13 AM.
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Old 07-06-2013, 04:16 AM   #132
BRIAN MP5T
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Yes but it is not a pressure line it is a gravity line so I need it to be a larger hose IMO.
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:30 PM   #133
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That's a good point, I can up the size of the line itself with adaptors but the brake/ clutch res. couldn't be tapped any larger. perhaps 1/8th NPT but the inner diam. is still marginal.
Anyhow sorry for the thread (pun) hack, your work is inspiring others to set the bar higher. My wallet hates you.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:57 PM   #134
BRIAN MP5T
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New trans was picked up yesterday and installed today..




Oil System is in as well..

There is a hose that goes to the regulator
There is a hose from the regulator that goes to the filter and then back to the engine.
There is a hose that returns to the windage tray from the regulator (Bypass)

Super easy to add a cooler, just cut the line, add some fittings and bolt on a cooler.








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Old 09-06-2013, 12:20 PM   #135
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So Engine and Trans In

Starter and Alternator On and working
Intake manifold on Sensors tested
Exhaust manifold on Turbo lines attached
Shifter linkage done
Downpipe attached
Oil system Primed by starting the car without plugs
Installed plugs
Installed Coils
Intake plumbing
Front bumper on

Needs Coolant and then I run it up.



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Old 09-06-2013, 02:36 PM   #136
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excellent work as always Brian.
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:20 PM   #137
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That is sexual
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Old 23-06-2013, 07:00 AM   #138
BRIAN MP5T
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Open Is Good...



Brake Parts Being Fabricated this weekend...

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Old 29-06-2013, 02:05 PM   #139
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Some Random shots.

it's on the road again and running well.

Some minor issues that needed fittings adjusted/tightened.

Snagged a shot of the OEM Transmission compared to PAR.. Holy Crap!









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Old 29-06-2013, 02:33 PM   #140
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Congratulations. That gearset is amazing. No wonder they're noisy as! I notice you've kept the stock front strut brace. Any reason for this? Everything else is modified!
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