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08-12-2010, 03:43 PM | #21 |
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And they bust gearboxes, and torquesteer like a mother****er. There's guys running 600kw+ BP-Ts around the world. It all depends on your budget.
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08-12-2010, 03:58 PM | #22 | |
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BP-T it is! Should I look into a turbo manifold, turbo, ecu, all the plumbing, intercooler and all the bits to bolt on, OR get the BP-T engine as a front cut.
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08-12-2010, 04:04 PM | #23 | |
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08-12-2010, 05:21 PM | #24 |
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Same place you'd find a KL-ZE
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08-12-2010, 05:35 PM | #25 | |
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BP-Ts are pretty old engines now, so you're probably better off putting some forged pistons into your BP. That's more costly (compared to just buying a BP-T) but then you get the chance to completely refresh the engine and then you know the history and mileage of it You could use a GT-X/GT-R manifold and stock turbo, or go something newer/bigger/better and a custom manifold. Either way, then it's some custom plumbing and a FMIC to round out that side of things ECU-wise you can use a GT-X one with a little fiddling, or go a standalone ECU like Wolf, Motec, Microtech etc. Then you'll need a 2.5-3" exhaust. This is determined by what turbo setup you use. In the end it really comes down to budget. Oh, and factor in an LSD so you can put the power to the ground.
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08-12-2010, 05:56 PM | #26 |
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OH YEAH FE3 i completly forgot about it
that thing is AWESOME turboed KL.. there is SO much power there, but you will spend so much time spinning the wheels that its more than anything useless. if you spin your wheels from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd for anything more than a chirp, then your wasting petrol, tyres and 400m and track time.. this is assuming you have widest tyres you can fit.. also as rupe pointed out there isnt much space under the bonnet, so you will be mounting your turbo low.. very low which will reduce the pressure on the intake of the turbine etc.. |
08-12-2010, 06:24 PM | #27 |
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I've been looking at an FE3 with an R2 diesal crank and turbo. The crank needs a little machine work to suit the FE3 oil pump but the extra 8mm of stroke and 1.5mm bore brings it to the same capacity as the SP23.
The R2s crank from a B2200 or E2200 is forged not cast so stronger. I'm thinking about standard FE3 for a start and building a second over time.
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08-12-2010, 09:37 PM | #28 |
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Ah, sorry. Might not have said that right, out of what car do they come?
I know the KL-ZE is out of a MX-6. How hard are the FE3's to get a hold of, and how much for the engine?
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08-12-2010, 10:02 PM | #29 | |
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So I'll be looking at, a bigger throttle body to suit 3" intake piping with FMIC, then bigger cams with a port/polished head to suit, rebuilt block with forged pistons, lower the compression, custom turbo manifold, unsure on which turbo but looking for a large one for big boost (looking at maybe a TO4E), and custom 3" dump pipe and exhaust, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, fuel pressure reg, chuck in my series 1 G series gearbox, and a LSD. That sounds good to me Would there be any advantage of having the block bored out and bigger pistons put in, if so, how much of an advantage? Cheers for all the help guys!
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08-12-2010, 10:42 PM | #30 |
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With biggest wisecos that they stock for overbore BP will bring it to 1.95ish
The bonus is you have more displacement so you can get more power, also this will increase your bore to stroke ratio Down side is the charge might not get full spread across the piston, and it will drink more, but going of what u wrote I don't think the last one is a issue |
08-12-2010, 10:49 PM | #31 | |
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09-12-2010, 12:12 AM | #32 |
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Do you want this to be a driver or a dyno queen?
If you want big figures but no power until 4500rpm, then a T04 etc will be fine. If you want something that is super responsive from lowdown (where 90% of your diving is done - around town) then you'll want something GT28ish sized. Increasing the capacity will increase the responsiveness off-boost, so is certainly worthwhile. My 1.9 is slightly more responsive that similar setup 1.8 BP-Ts i've been in/driven. And the standard throttlebody is fine...unless you're going for dyno queen. Also, cams are less critical with a FI setup. If you were going NA then you'd need bigger cams.
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09-12-2010, 12:53 AM | #33 | |
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So, no need for bigger cams, and go for a gt2835? And with the block being bored out, how much is that usually cost, and is it worth it on a cost/performance basis? All I can remember is that it's reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally expensive. I'm figuring this out slowly. My plan is when I've got this all figured out, start to slowly source all the parts, but making the list of parts is hard
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09-12-2010, 12:54 AM | #34 |
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No need really. Just, wouldn't mind something with enough balls to worry a SS commodore or wrx!
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09-12-2010, 09:04 AM | #35 |
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a turboed BP would worry a falcodore or a wrx no worries
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09-12-2010, 09:30 AM | #36 |
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Y don't u try and go awd????
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09-12-2010, 10:21 AM | #37 |
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09-12-2010, 10:30 AM | #38 |
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Lol yer go for the hole torque slide hee hee
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09-12-2010, 06:38 PM | #39 |
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[QUOTE=Cosmo Dude;252425]FE3 or FE twin cam is a two litre inline 4 cylinder from the JDM GD Cappella (626). It's kinda the best bits of the BP engine in a strong two litre engine.
QUOTE] The FE3 is about potential, they are stronger than a BP and will accept more boost stock than a BP. Essentialy no FE3 turbos were ever sold.
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09-12-2010, 07:52 PM | #40 |
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you can get around 1000hp from a Turbo KL with out much trouble on stock crank its basically the same power levels as a RB25DET with some boost
lest see a FE3 do that ! for the record my ST205 Celica GT4 (3SGTE) is SLOWER than a my stock-ish KL-ZE powered KF/BG ford laser! and thats around corners and straight line
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