Whiteline front strut tower brace

[MarkM]

I am deciding whether to install a front strut tower brace on my '97 4 cyl BA hatchback. I have already fitted a Whiteline rear swaybar, King low springs and KYB shocks. The improvements to handling so far are considerable.

Jim Gurief of Whiteline advised that a front strut tower brace would further improve the handling by increasing the torsional rigidity of the car. This would give sharper turn-in, better balance, etc.

Can readers who have installed a front strut brace advise whether there were noticeable improvements to handling (and any negative effects). Are the improvements felt during everyday driving or only on the limit, so is it worth the cost?

The Whiteline catalogue gives part no KSB563. Does this part fit the BA without any modification required. I notice that the strut towers have 3 bolts that secure the strut and a fourth bolt that just sits there. Also, the passenger side strut tower has a metal hose attached to it that may be in the way.

[Ripper323]

I've not put one in a BA, but I've made them for a lancer, a couple of silvias,my old SS 323 and my BJ2 and I've always noticed a difference in handling. It's not a massive amount but it is noticable, just feels better if you know what I mean. Get a rear one as well and it stiffens up even more.

[andrewgrazier]

i was thinkin of getting one for my car
91 BG 1.8 dohc.

my friend has a 180 SX with pretty much everything
and in the wet the braces make the car kinda a pain to drive, its really flat n then slides out quite easily, sure nice in the wet thoguh, might be his shocks as well i duno

If youve allready gone thoguh geting all of that other stuff done to your car the extra $100 for it would be well worth it

[mrpayner]

Originally Posted by MarkM

Jim Gurief of Whiteline advised that a front strut tower brace would further improve the handling by increasing the torsional rigidity of the car. This would give sharper turn-in, better balance, etc.

These are the main improvements that you'll get from fitting a strut brace.. You will definately increase torsional rigidity as it is very noticable.. For instance, if you're going into a driveway at an angle and the driveway was a dip and an incline you will pick the back wheel up off the ground.. BoostedBatman has a classic example of this on his BA hardtop. i think the pic is still in his sigline. I always pick the back wheel up off the ground when going into my local Shell petrol station..

In saying this, there's probably not any real benefits of fitting a strut brace for everyday driving, but it sure looks cool when you open the bonnet.

Regards
AP

[Rupewrecht]

no real everyday benefits, but if you like a good spirited drive, you'll notice it.

you may need front camber bolts to add a little negative camber (depending on your driving style) as suddenly your strut towers aren't bending in and giving your tyres the same contact patch that they used to

[Cosmo Dude]

Originally Posted by MrPayner

In saying this, there's probably not any real benefits of fitting a strut brace for everyday driving, but it sure looks cool when you open the bonnet.

Regards
AP

It depends on what you call a benefit. If under bonnet looks are important then go for it. If you want more stable steering then it's also fantastic.
Any modification will have benefits and contrasting determents.
A car that handles well will be very unforgiving when pushed too far. It's the price you pay.

[mcwilly]

i get my car on two wheels everyday and its only got kings super lows, im keen to make my car very firm. i have also noticed that the car handles better after the springs but when pushed it is fine one second take it a bit far and it just goes theres not much warning, you either have control or u dont not much in between

[MarkM]

Thanks guys. There's some useful comments there.

I have not installed adjustable camber bolts as the car ended up with plenty of negative camber after it was lowered, about -2 deg front and -1.5 deg rear. It sounds like a front brace would work well with those settings.

Like most of us, I do like spirited but safe drives on challenging roads. The feedback suggests a front brace would improve steering feedback and response and allow the other suspension modifications to work better and tighter under those driving conditions. I also expect the increased rigidity of the front end would tend to balance the effects of the rear swaybar, lessening any tendency to oversteer etc......

In terms of negative effects, I can put up with the occasional tyre lifting, if that's the biggest problem.

Any more comments, including comments on fitment, gratefully accepted.

[mazdamanik]

not sure but would it be better to put a stronger front swaybar in rather than strut brace to balance the affect of the rear swaybar?....or does it not matter, i need to replace my rear swaybar on the count that its sagging its that old, so would it be better to also replace the front sway or through a strut brace on?

[BigMal]

Getting the front swaybar off requires the back end on the front chassis to be
dropped down is a big job I even couldn't do it with the engine out. It will not
replace the effects of a strut brace. Imagine that the Astina was made out of flimsy
metal like a cardboard box you push the sides in at the top and they move, you put
the lid on the box they dont. Then replace the struts for the sides of the box and
then think of the effect on the tyre contact with the road and you get an idea what
the strut brace does.

[Cosmo Dude]

A long reach 14mm socket would be beneficial for removing the nuts on the strut top. Not 100% necessary but useful, else it's as complicated as Lego And do try to do the job on a flat even surface.

[BigMal]

A long socket wont help its the D bush brackets that you cant get to its on a curve
recessed in between the chassis and the firewall even getting a spanner in is
impossible yo cant get to the back bolt at either side.

[Cosmo Dude]

Originally Posted by Cosmo Dude

A long reach 14mm socket would be beneficial for removing the nuts on the strut top. Not 100% necessary but useful, else it's as complicated as Lego And do try to do the job on a flat even surface.

If you're installing a strut brace then the above applies. If you're installing a front sway bar then you will first need to find one and then you need a friendly bank manager to pay for the mechanic to instal it. It's a huge job

[BigMal]

My bad thought we were still talking swaybar not strut brace :?

[boostedbatman]

Originally Posted by MrPayner

These are the main improvements that you'll get from fitting a strut brace.. You will definately increase torsional rigidity as it is very noticable.. For instance, if you're going into a driveway at an angle and the driveway was a dip and an incline you will pick the back wheel up off the ground.. BoostedBatman has a classic example of this on his BA hardtop. i think the pic is still in his sigline. I always pick the back wheel up off the ground when going into my local Shell petrol station..

In saying this, there's probably not any real benefits of fitting a strut brace for everyday driving, but it sure looks cool when you open the bonnet.

Regards
AP

As Adam said the torsional rigidity is greatly improved
Here are some pics showing the rear tyre sitting around 25cm off the ground (or there abouts from memory)
Driveway Bender #1
Driveway Bender #4
Driveway Bender #3
I personally feel that with the BA's there is a real need to stiffen up all we can due to the extra flex from a car with pillarless windows for doors with pillars are a handling improvement also

[Mark.T]

Jeez, that's not insignificant!!

What set-up do you have there?

You also have the advantage of it being a hardtop so you have extra metal between the rear wheels that make it even more rigid

I have a front strut brace and found quite a big difference on turn-in performance.

As BigMal said, the front ARB is a big job. I have poly bushes for it, but didn't bother putting them in as it was such a big job. Changing it to a thicker one will couter-act the rear ARB more than balance it out - you'd likely almost be back where you started with the OEM setup.

Mark

[boostedbatman]

Ive got the JICs and all the whiteline bits. I am however short a rear strut brace. There are a few Mazdaspeed parts for the rear to go and some solid,adjustable endlinks and then we will see where she creaks and eliminate that too

[chicaboo]

But Pete, if you stiffen up the ends a whole bunch, aren't you forcing any residual movement towards the middle of the car around the imaginary B pillar section? In this case, if you get too much movement around the windows/doord/seals, I guess you could see if Cusco or someone does a ladder brace to reduce the chassis twist?

Gav.

[Mark.T]

Originally Posted by boostedbatman

Ive got the JICs and all the whiteline bits. I am however short a rear strut brace. There are a few Mazdaspeed parts for the rear to go and some solid,adjustable endlinks and then we will see where she creaks and eliminate that too

I'll have to see if mine does that out of interest once the rest of the D2 kit turns up. I'm only short of the WL caster adjusters.

Do you think you need the rear strut brace? Will it even fit?

What creaks and knocks have you got? Mine knocks when I go over a large bump. Not sure if it's the exhaust or maybe even the rear ARB on the chassis


Mark

[Rupewrecht]

i get windows and doors sometimes creaking when going up driveways - like Pete. i've got the same articulation as him lol